Bobbinet
Bobinet is a transparent, net-like textile - a braid that consists of a series of warp threads and 2–4 weft threads running at an angle . During production, the weft is pulled through on a very narrow bobbin between the warp threads and wraps around them.
The sketch on the right shows the structure of a bobbinet tulle with a warp (light green) and 2 weft threads (blue and red). In this way, honeycomb-shaped square or rectangular openings are created. With a corresponding device, extensive and complicated patterns can also be produced using the bobbinet technique .
The most common yarns used for processing are cotton , silk , polyamide and polyester .
Historical development
Tulle has its origins in hand-made lace. Very early on, lace was made with needles or bobbins from thin threads. The threads were intertwined and linked. However, it was not until around 1500 that the ornate lace known today could be produced. Lace is based on a net base, whereby it is very laborious to make the required, regular stitches by hand. But since the demand for lace increased steadily, the net-like lace stock was already being made in special manufactories around 1700. At the end of the 18th century, attempts were made to machine the net or lace ground for the first time. The first attempt succeeded in 1765. The tulle-like knitted fabric produced on a so-called stocking chair was not yet satisfactory, however. Forty years later, the first bobbinet machine was built. Its inventor, the Englishman John Heathcoat, had studied the hand movements of lace makers and he managed to imitate them with his machine. The smooth, unpatterned tulle, which was first produced on this bobbinet machine in 1808, was on a par with the real lace net. It could also be produced many times faster and more cheaply. The bobbinet tulle machine developed by John Heathcoat has been used to this day in almost unchanged form for the production of real tulle. The world's largest production of such genuine bobbinet tulle is now in Perry Street, Chard (Somerset, United Kingdom). Heathcoat's bobbinet machine was later further developed by his compatriot Leaver and the jacquard device was added in the second half of the 19th century . The Leavers machine, as it is often called, and Leavers tips were leaders in lace making until about 1914. Since around the middle of the 20th century, however, this product has been largely manufactured on much more productive Raschel machines. However, tulle produced on such machines is no longer real bobbinet tulle, but rather knitted tulle.
Bobinet in the present
At the end of the 20th century, around 1000 bobbinet machines were still in use worldwide. The production focuses on very special goods from the groups: tulle, curtains and lace . The production of wigs , fine nets (e.g. for loudspeakers) and other technical textiles is also known.
The bobbinet tulle , also called real tulle, is absolutely non-slip and has almost unlimited pattern options. According to the shape of the honeycomb it is called Erbs - grid - or Twisttüll .
A distinction is made between curtains :
- Basic jacquard weave.
In addition to the bobbin threads, pattern threads are used here from the jacquard machine, with which lateral laying is carried out. There are alternating strong and delicate pattern surfaces (e.g. double action or Swiss binding ). - Combination
weave Several warp and pattern threads are combined, creating webs, knots, ribs and other shapes and thus greater breakthrough effects. Well-known ties: Double-tie , Double-Action and Swiss . - Basic splint weave
A fourth thread system is needed for this type, a so -called basic thread. The lateral offset of the fourth system creates four- and hexagons or nodes. The textile has a very good stability and is z. B. under the name Filet -, or Strichgrund as well as Everlasting or Swiss-net known.
Bobinet tip
Production machines for the manufacture of bobbinet lace are generally equipped with a jacquard device today. The patterning is kleinrapportig and dense, suitable for high-quality curtains as Vallencienes - Chantilly lace or fining Bobbin .
Uses
Real bobbinet tulle is traditionally used for upscale curtain fabrics , for wedding dresses , haute couture fashion, lingerie and embroidery, with the bobbinet serving as an embroidery base and as a wig base for high-quality wigs. In recent years, real tulle has also found its way into the world of technical textiles. Such technical applications, where quality is more important than appearance, are the use of bobbinet for sun blinds in cars and trains, safety nets, parachutes, radar reflectors for military purposes, flexible textile switches and sensors, as well as for stage and film lighting. Depending on the type of yarn used to make the bobbinet, the tulle can also be conductive or made almost invisible on the skin.
literature
- Denninger, Giese: Textile and Fashion Lexicon . Deutscher Fachverlag, Frankfurt / Main 2006, ISBN 3-87150-848-9 .
- Len Hoskins: A Plain Net Centenary 1895-1995 . Swiss Net UK plc + The Matthews Wright Press, Chard 1995.
- Meinrad Flury, Grit Röscher: Swisstulle 1808-2008 . siggset print & media + Swisstulle, Germany 2008.
Web links
- Types of production of bobbinet textiles ( Memento from April 12, 2010 in the Internet Archive )
- Pictures from the production plant