Broad Peak Central
| Broad Peak Central | ||
|---|---|---|
 Broad Peak in the background. On the left Broad Peak Central, on the right the long ridge from the fore to the main summit |
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| height | 8011 m | |
| location |
Gilgit-Baltistan ( Pakistan ), Xinjiang ( People's Republic of China ) |
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| Mountains | Gasherbrum Group ( Karakoram ) | |
| Dominance | 0.8 km → Broad Peak (pre-summit) | |
| Notch height | 191 m ↓ Broad Col ( 7820 m ) | |
| Coordinates | 35 ° 49 '15 " N , 76 ° 33' 54" E | |
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| First ascent | July 28, 1975 by K. Głazek, M. Kęsicki, J. Kuliś, B. Nowaczyk and A. Sikorski | |
 View from K2 to Gasherbrum Group and Broad Peak. Broad Peak Central is the 2nd summit from the right (far right the main summit), its east face shines in the morning sun. |
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The Broad Peak Central (Chinese name Zhongyang , also Broad Peak Mid Peak or Broad Peak Middle ) is an 8011 m high secondary peak of Broad Peak , which is also referred to as a relatively independent main peak .
He belongs to the Gasherbrum group . Due to its optical independence, it has long been disputed whether it is the 15th eight-thousander . The mountain is in the disputed border area of Kashmir (Pakistan and India) and Xinjiang (China).
The first ascent
The first ascent took place on July 28, 1975 by a Polish expedition. The six climbers Roman Bebak, Kazimierz Głazek, Marek Kęsicki, Janusz Kuliś, Bohdan Nowaczyk and Andrzej Sikorski began their summit attack from Camp III at an altitude of about 7200 m . Shortly before the summit, Bebak turned around, so that a short time later five climbers reached the summit. Nowaczyk disappeared on the descent in the snowstorm. The search for the other mountaineers was unsuccessful. Since they could not descend very far due to the search, they had to bivouac near the summit. The search continued the next morning, but to no avail. On further descent, Kęsicki, Kuliś and Sikorski slipped. Kęsicki and Sikorski were killed. Thus only two of the first climbers survived the expedition.
First ascent of the east side
On August 4, 1992, a Spanish expedition managed the first ascent of a route on the Chinese east side to Broad Peak Central (and thus the third ascent of this summit). After three unsuccessful attempts in July, the Catalans Oscar Cadiach , Enric Dalmau, Lluis Ráfols and the Italian Alberto Soncini finally reached the summit after bivouacking at almost 8,000 m . The group had already set out on an exploration trip to the remote area last year; Broad Peak first climber Kurt Diemberger , who explored the area geographically , also took part in both trips .
This ascent was not only the first on the east side of this mountain, but actually the first ascent of a mountain of the Gasherbrum group from the east, from the Shaksgam valley belonging to China . It was not until 15 years later that a Swiss expedition succeeded in making the first ascent of the north face of Gasherbrum II, the second ascent from the Chinese side.
Individual evidence
- ↑ Archive link ( Memento of the original from April 4, 2005 in the Internet Archive ) Info: The archive link was inserted automatically and has not yet been checked. Please check the original and archive link according to the instructions and then remove this notice.
- ^ History of the first ascent of BP Central
- ^ Oscar Cadiach: Broad Peak Central from China. In: American Alpine Club Journal 1993, pp. 39-48. (AAJO) (PDF; 1.7 MB), accessed on November 17, 2012.
- ^ Kurt Diemberger: Shaksgam Exploration. Tilman's Loop and Gasherbrum Glacier to K2 Glacier. In: American Alpine Club Journal 1995, pp. 82-91. (AAJO) (PDF; 1.7 MB), accessed on November 17, 2012.
