Guido Magnone

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Guido Magnone (born February 22, 1917 in Paris ; † July 9, 2012 ) was a French mountaineer.

Magnone completed a commercial apprenticeship and did not start climbing until 1947. He was technical director of the Union Nationale des Centers de Montagne (UNCM, Association of National Youth Organizations) and from 1961 to 1965 President of the internationally renowned Groupe de Haute Montagne (GHM, Alpine Association of France).

During his alpine career, he was involved in numerous important first ascents. In 1952 he succeeded in climbing the Petit Dru West Face for the first time, which he later wrote a book about. In the same year he was also involved in the first ascent of Fitz Roy in the Andes and achieved the eighth ascent of the Eiger north face . In 1955 he was involved in the first ascent of Makalu in the Himalayas . In 1956 he succeeded in the second ascent of the Muztagh Tower in the Karakoram and the first ascent of the southeast ridge. In 1962 he was part of the first team to climb the Chakrarahu East Summit in the Andes.

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