Hōchō
Hōchō ( Japanese 包 丁 , also 庖丁 , in compositions: -bōchō ) is the Japanese word for kitchen knife. There is a distinction between Wa bōchō and Yō bōchō, where Wa- stands for Japanese knives (traditional forms, often hand-forged) and Yō- for knives made in the western style (mostly machine-made).
The knife blades usually consist of a hard but brittle carbon steel core that is fire-welded with one or more layers of softer but more elastic steel.
to form
Similar to European kitchen knives, special shapes and sizes have developed depending on the task at hand. In addition to knives with a two-sided bevel (ryō-ba), knives with a one-sided (kata-ba) bevel are particularly common, as they enable a more precise cut, for example to enable finer fillets. One-sided knives are produced in right-handed and (usually more expensive) left-handed versions.
Blade shape
The most common blade shapes:
- Santoku : means "three virtues", whereby three virtues means meat, fish and vegetables, hence also "multi-purpose knife". It has a wide blade for good guidance on the back of the finger and is a light knife with two-sided bevel, which is very accommodating to European cutting habits, and therefore a knife to get to know real Hōchō, the "beginner's knife". However, it is more similar to European knives than traditional Japanese ones.
- Tako hiki, Yanagi-ba, Fugu hiki : a slim, very long blade (25–30 cm), which - if it is traditional - definitely has a one-sided cut. The blade of the Yanagiba ends in a point. It's a classic blade shape for slicing raw meat and raw fish. The shape reminds the Japanese of a willow leaf, and willow is called Yanagi in Japanese, hence the name. The Tako hiki ( 蛸 引 , ("octopus puller / cutter")) and the fugu biki ("fugu / puffer fish puller / cutter") are similar to the Yanagiba . These knives are rectangular at the "tip". These three knives are also known as " Sashimi bōchō (knife)".
- Deba : the fish filleting knife. Sanded on one side except for the rear part of the handle, which is sanded on both sides and which is used more for coarse work, such as cutting through strong central bones or halving fish heads.
- Nakiri bōchō : for the fine peeling of vegetables and precise cutting of vegetable sticks, lettuce strips, etc. Even wafer-thin slices of ripe tomatoes are no problem. It has a wide blade for good guidance on the back of the finger. The nakiri is on both sides, the usuba is ground on one side. The Katsuramuki cutting technique is performed with the Usuba .
- Gyūtō : The blade shape is similar to the western / European chef's knife. Like the Santoku, it is to be regarded as a universal knife and is manufactured with a bevel on both sides. It has a slim blade shape for finer work with pulling or pushing cuts.
- Ajikiri , also Ko-Deba : This knife is a small Deba variant . The blade is significantly smaller and has a thinner back. It is used for filleting small fish such as the jackfish (Japanese aji ). The Ajikiri is also made with different bevels.
- Petty: small universal knife for fruit, peeling and smaller cutting work with a blade length of less than 10 cm, the name probably comes from "petit" (French: small)
Special blade shapes:
- Maguro bōchō ( 鮪 包 丁 ): a knife one to two meters long to cut tuna. The large variant used at the Tsukiji fish market is also called Oroshi bōchō ( お ろ し 包 丁 ), where oroshi means 'wholesale'. The smaller half- length ( han ) variant Hanchō hōchō ( 半 丁 包 丁 ).
- Unagisaki ( う な ぎ 裂 き ) / Unagi bōchō ( ウ ナ ギ 包 丁 ): for cutting eel.
- Menkiri bōchō ( 麺 切 包 丁 ): Noodle knife for making soba and udon .
Hanchō Hōchō
Two men use a knife: the Oroshi Hōchō in use at the Tsukiji fish market
Unagisaki
Handle shape
The Hōchō blades are classically framed with an almost cylindrical handle made of magnolia wood, which is fixed by a buffalo horn or wood clamp. Yobocho are also made with European style knife handles.
Steel types and blade structure used
Because of the finer martensitic structure, stainless steel types are mainly used. In particular, the Yasugi steels from the Japanese company Hitachi are used today (see Japanese knife steel ). The names of the types of steel are derived from the packaging paper:
- White paper steel (also false white paper steel , Japanese 白紙 shirogami ) is an unalloyed carbon steel , which in its purity comes very close to Tamahagane (steel for swords). It is characterized by very high sharpness and edge retention . It is used in particular for fine cutting tools.
- Blue paper steel (also false blue paper steel , Japanese 青 紙 aogami ) is a carbon steel alloyed with manganese , chromium and tungsten . This steel is more robust than white paper steel and is therefore used for cleavers and the like.
- Silver paper steel (also incorrectly silver paper steel , Japanese 銀 紙 gingami ) is a stainless steel. It is used for knives that are extremely robust but do not require a high degree of sharpness.
- PM steels - For knives with a western design, powder metallurgy steels (so-called PM steels) are now also used, which are even harder than low-alloy steels and are also rust-free. However, they cannot be sanded as finely as white paper steel.
Often, multiple folded multi-layer steels ( Suminagashi ) are used, in which several of the above types of steel are combined (similar to Damascus steel ).
Practically all high-quality Hōchō have laminated blades, which consist of several layers (knives ground on one side usually from two layers, knives ground on both sides from three layers). Brittle steel with high hardness and fine structure (to form the cutting edge) is fire-welded with more flexible and easy-care steel in order to combine high blade stability with a perfect cutting edge. Mono steels are also processed.
The difference between simple lamination ( Kasumi ), Suminagashi ( Damascus steel ) and Honyaki is that Suminagashi steel has very many thin layers, which are connected to an almost homogeneous material, while with laminate the steel types remain clearly separated in order to be in different places the blade to perform different tasks.
Honyaki blades are made of a monosteel, that is, the blade is made of only one steel. In order to achieve maximum sharpness, these blades are differentially hardened, only in the cutting area. This makes color differences visible on the blade (" hamon "). The production of Honyaki blades is done exclusively by hand, is very complex and requires a high level of knowledge and experience. These blades are usually very expensive.
use
handling
Hōchō are usually used with a pulling cut on a cutting board made of plastic or wood. If sticky foods (such as sushi ) are cut, the knife should be moistened with water before each cut. With sensitive blades, contact with hard objects (e.g. bones) should be avoided.
- For precise cuts , e.g. B. for thin slices, the leaf should rest on the knuckles of the free hand ("cut in front of the claw").
- For peeling cuts , e.g. B. when cutting a radish or a cucumber, the food is guided and rotated close to the cutting edge.
- For decorative cuts , the blade is guided close to the tip.
- The rear cutting edge is used to remove eyes from fruit and vegetables. The food is rotated.
- Knife guidance for filleting and sashimi with a pulling cut . The bevel is at the bottom.
Cutting mat
The right cutting mat (Japanese: Manaita) - and this applies to all knives, not only original Japanese ones - is made of wood or plastic. Working on porcelain, marble or glass immediately dulls the blade. In contrast to European custom ( beech , ash , teak ), Japanese cooks prefer to use soft woods, e.g. B. ginkgo or cypress . Bamboo is also only partially suitable as a cutting surface, although it seems to fit Japanese knives. Bamboo is a grass that is dense and hard, but contains minerals that have crystallized out in tiny particles that have a negative effect on the heat.
If you don't have the ideal ginkgo wood, beech and ash are good for you. Resin-containing woods (spruce, pine, other softwoods), which are not tasteless, and woods that can transfer disruptive aromas to the food are not advisable.
The hygiene of cutting pads made of wood is controversial: on the one hand, scientific studies show that the ingredients of wood can have an antibacterial effect, on the other hand, the use of (dishwasher-safe) plastic pads is required for gastronomy and use in food outlets.
Irrespective of the discussion or discussion, there is an obligation of effective cleaning for all cutting mats.
Sharpen
In contrast to European knives, it is not advisable to use a sharpening steel . The cutting edge of a Hōchō can reach a hardness of 60–65 HRC and is therefore significantly more sensitive than European knives; Sharpening can therefore easily lead to breakouts on the cutting edge. In addition, a sharpening steel is unsuitable for maintaining the blade and cutting edge geometry of knives that are sharpened on one side. Hōchō are therefore sharpened on Japanese waterstones (grain size 400–1500) and honed (grain size 3000 and finer). Both artificial and natural stones are used. Under no circumstances should uncooled, dry-running grinding machines be used, as the friction can cause high temperatures at certain points, which change the steel structure, whereby hardness and edge retention are lost.
storage
To prevent damage to the cutting edge, do not belong Hōchō in the cutlery drawer. If available, they should be put in a knife sheath or kept in a wooden case or knife block . A sheath made of folded newspaper is recommended , as this has a hygroscopic effect on the one hand and has a corrosion-preventing effect on the other hand due to the oil contained in the printing ink . Japanese cooks individually wrap their knives in cloths.
Cleaning and care
Due to the sensitive cutting edges and the stainless steel, Hōchō should not be cleaned in the dishwasher under any circumstances. The traditionally used wooden handles are also damaged or destroyed in the dishwasher. Instead, Hōchō are rinsed off with warm water and dishwasher detergent. The use of brushes or abrasive cleaners is not recommended. Then the Hōchō is dried with a cloth.
Certain foods (e.g. onions, fruits) can discolour the blades. They are harmless to health and can be left as a " patina ". Traditionally, Japanese polishing powders ( Kogosa , Uchiko ) are used to remove them ; a cleaner for hotplates or stainless steel surfaces is equally suitable.
For longer storage, especially in humid air, as can be found in a kitchen, it is advisable to rub the blades with a food-safe oil (e.g. camellia oil , "Tsubaki abura") very thinly. Traditionally, rice paper is used for this, and an unscented paper handkerchief has also proven its worth.
Wooden handles (including dry wooden cutting pads) are happy to be wiped with oil from time to time, which camellia oil is also suitable for. Walnut oil has proven to be better because it has a pleasant smell and taste, dries and does not make the wood "greasy".
Trivia
Japanese cooks (including others who use Hōchō) regard their knives as their own and exclusive tools that cannot be touched or used by others. Many begin their work by sharpening the knife, which they also reserve for themselves. Basically, a knife is checked for sharpness before each use and, if necessary, sharpened
Japanese knives are often said to have a special sharpness . However, this property has less to do with its origin, shape or blade material. Sharpness is a condition that a blade can and must be maintained regardless of its origin, shape or bell material. Sharpness is a condition of maintenance and not a property. Buying a Hōchō only because of its "special spiciness" should therefore be viewed critically.
Web links
- Mizuno Tanrenjo. In: mizunotanrenjo.jp. Retrieved October 11, 2017 (Japanese).
Individual evidence
- ↑ 包 丁 と 砥石 、 柴 田 書店 、ISBN 4-388-05843-2 , page 51
- ↑ 柴 田 書店: 包 丁 と 砥石. 12th edition, 2007, p. 41.