Men's skirt

from Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia
Gentleman in frock coat. The waist seam can be seen at the level of the lower button.

A man's skirt is a man's garment that can be distinguished from jackets or jackets both in terms of cut and history . The jackets that are common today have evolved from the shape of the peasant coat , which goes back to the medieval surcot . The counterpart to the skirt that is actually typical for women , with the exception of the Scottish kilt , is the men's skirt .

In contrast to the peasant smock, which can already be found in its basic forms in Bronze Age graves, the clothing of the so-called upper class developed differently and more labor-intensive, probably due to the better solvency. Medieval vests were already provided with an attached lap . After the Thirty Years' War , the tailors developed loose-fitting outerwear, which consisted of a top (waistline) and an extension sewn on at the waist , the lap. By narrowing this waist seam, it was possible to make the bag-like fall more body-friendly. Even in the Baroque era, these skirts worn by “higher gentlemen” were known as “men's skirts”. From this garment, the rococo Justaucorps developed into the frock coat customary in the 19th century , from which the Biedermeier tailcoat was made by narrowing the lapels . In the 19th century, calculation formulas were created that allowed tailor-made cuts. With the new cutting systems, it was possible to cut full-length garments to fit the body and to produce well-fitting jackets without a waist seam. Since then there has been constant confusion of terms; only men’s “jackets” with a waist cut are called a skirt , regardless of their length and width . Without a waist seam it is a jacket , a jacket with a lapel is always a jacket . Even today, the men's skirt is often worn as a uniform , otherwise it has become rare in men's outerwear. There has been no difference in fit since the mid-19th century.

literature

  • Lexicon of fashion , Waldemar-Klein-Verlag, Baden-Baden, 1950
  • The cut for men's tailoring , German Clothing Academy Munich
  • Lexicon of clothing-making, including the entire official uniforms , Volume 3, Verlag Europäische Modezeitung, 1896