Jeanne Lanvin

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Clémentine-Hélène Dufau : Jeanne Lanvin (1925)

Jeanne Lanvin , actually Jeanne-Marie Lanvin, (born January 1, 1867 in Paris , † July 6, 1946 ibid) was a French fashion designer . The fashion company Lanvin , which she founded in 1889, still exists today.

Madame Lanvin

As the eldest of 11 children of Bernard-Constant Lanvin and Sophie Blanche Deshayes, Jeanne Lanvin grew up in modest circumstances. After a job as a temporary job at the hat manufacturer Madame Boni on the elegant Parisian fashion mile Rue du Faubourg Saint-Honoré , an apprenticeship as a hat maker at Maison Félix three years later and finally a job as a milliner at Talbot , she opened her own hat shop in 1889 on the Rue du Faubourg Saint-Honoré. This is considered to be the year Lanvin was founded. In 1895 she married the Italian countEmilio di Pietro, with whom she had a daughter and whom she divorced in 1903. After her divorce , she began to tailor her daughter Marguerite, called Marie-Blanche (1897-1958), and her youngest sister, colorful, for the time unusual, movement- friendly hanging dresses , for which she also found buyers among the wealthy buyers of her hats . In 1907 she married the journalist Xavier Melet.

Lanvin quickly responded to the great demand for the fashion she created and began creating women's fashion in 1909. In the same year she joined the Chambre Syndicale de la Haute Couture . The year 1909 is therefore considered to be the year the couture house Lanvin was founded. Instead of drawing or draping herself , she instructed fashion illustrators to put their designs on paper. She constantly had to expand her studio in the Paris fashion district. Lanvin's fashion was characterized by colorful, noble fabrics, youthful-feminine women's collections with associated designs for girls' clothing, elaborate embroidery and artistic craftsmanship . For this purpose she founded her own dye works in Nanterre in 1923 . Classics are the so-called Lanvin blue (lilac blue) and Polignac pink (her daughter had married Count Jean de Polignac in 1925).

Replica of Jeanne Lanvin's living room in the Musée des Arts Décoratifs in Paris

In 1920 Lanvin, who was now a wealthy business woman, bought the former Hôtel particulier of the Marquise Arconati-Visconti in Paris for herself and her daughter in Rue Barbet-de-Jouy, not far from the Musée Rodin, which was just opened at the time, and modernized the building with the help of the architect Richard Bouwens van der Boijen. The interior design was carried out by the renowned French interior designer Armand-Albert Rateau (1882–1938) from 1921. Lanvin had already worked with Rateau from 1920 for the interior decoration division Lanvin Décoration of their company. In 1925, the work on Rue Barbet-de-Jouy was completed. The building was demolished in 1965. Subsequently, Prince Louis de Polignac, cousin by marriage of Marie-Blanche Lanvin-Polignac, had several rooms reconstructed by Jeanne Lanvin, which were exhibited intermittently in the Musée des Arts Décoratifs in Paris from 1985 onwards.

Lanvin Designs of a Robe de Style Dress and a Girl's Dress (1922)

The romantic, playful Lanvin fashion with long dresses ( robe de style ) and skirts stood in contrast to the emancipated, concise designs of their younger colleagues Coco Chanel and Jean Patou . Recurring motifs at Lanvin were satin ribbons, ruffles , taffeta or tulle embellishments, floral patterns ( daisies preferred ). In 1924 she was made a Knight of the Legion of Honor for her achievements in the fashion sector . In the same year she launched Lanvin Sport with comfortable casual clothing. Lanvin Parfums , also founded in 1924, was to present numerous fragrances under the Lanvin name over the years, starting with My Sin (1924). In 1925 it already employed 800 people. In 1926, Lanvin Tailleur-Chemisier launched the men's couture collection. As one of the first haute couture houses, the fashion house run by Jeanne Lanvin with great organizational and business talent had a department for perfumes , for men’s and for sporty women’s, fur and children’s clothing. In addition, she moved with Lanvin Décoration from the beginning of the 1920s in the field of home textiles and home furnishings. The fragrance 'Arpège' (based on her daughter's piano playing ) , created by her in 1927, two years after the Chanel classic Nº 5 , is a classic in the perfume world and is still available today. One of Jeanne Lanvin's customers and friends was Marlene Dietrich . After Jeanne Lanvin's death in 1946, the company was initially continued by her daughter Marie-Blanche.

Mother and child symbol in the Lanvin logo

Jeanne Lanvin's great love for her daughter is still reflected today in the Lanvin logo , which shows a stylized mother in a flowing robe, shaking hands with her little daughter. This Art Nouveau picture was designed by Paul Iribe in 1927 as a flacon painting for the Arpège fragrance.

In 1921 Jeanne Lanvin owned two country houses from the architect Robert Fournez in Le Vésinet , where her first husband Emilio di Pietro had already owned a property - called La Chênerai (from French chêne , German oak ) and La Buisserie (from French buis , German boxwood or les Vieilles Tuiles , German the old roof tiles ) - had them built by Rateau. La Buisserie finally made Jeanne Lanvin her retirement home. She died in Paris in 1946 at her property on rue Barbet-de-Jouy.

Awards

literature

  • Ingrid Loschek: Reclam's fashion and costume lexicon. 5th edition Reclam, Stuttgart 2005, ISBN 3-15-010577-3 , S: 548-549
  • NJ Stevenson: The History of Fashion. Styles, trends and stars. Haupt, Bern et al. 2011, ISBN 978-3-258-60032-1 , pp. 90-91

collection

Metropolitan Museum of Art , New York (selection)

  • "Roseraie", evening dress (silk), spring / summer 1923

  • "Jolibois", evening dress (silk), autumn / winter 1922–23

  • Ko.I.Noor, evening ensemble (silk and metal), spring / summer 1927

  • "Phèdre", evening dress (silk and metal), autumn / winter 1933

  • "Fusée", evening dress (silk), 1938

  • "Cyclone", evening dress (silk with sequins), 1939

Web links

Commons : Jeanne Lanvin  - Collection of Images, Videos and Audio Files

Individual references and comments

  1. ↑ On July 6, 1946, on rue Barbet de Jouy, Jeanne Lanvin passes away at age 79 years. , Lanvin sur Facebook, July 5, 2013
  2. ↑ The secret of fashion: it's all just a matter of time . In: Kulturspiegel , September 27, 1999
  3. ↑ Elegance and sophistication - Lanvin . In: Elle , accessed September 2, 2010
  4. ↑ Lanvin Arpège - a classic turns 80 years old . ( Memento of the original from March 10, 2010 in the Internet Archive ) Info: The archive link was inserted automatically and has not yet been checked. Please check the original and archive link according to the instructions and then remove this notice. paulvital.de, September 22, 2007  @1@ 2Template: Webachiv / IABot / www.paulvital.de
  5. ↑ Dominique = Marlene - 20 . In: Der Spiegel . No. 15 , 1949 ( online ).
  6. ↑ Paul Iribe in the English language Wikipedia
  7. ↑ Les maisons de Jeanne Lanvin au Vésinet , histoire-vesinet.org, 2012
  8. ↑ Lot notes: Armand Albert Rateau (1882-1938) , christies.com, December 15, 2010
  9. ↑ Une visite à Jeanne Lanvin (1926) , histoire-vesinet.org, 2012
  10. ↑ The owner of a Parisian fashion house officer of the Legion of Honor. In:  Neues Wiener Tagblatt. Democratic organ / Neues Wiener Abendblatt. Evening edition of the (") Neue Wiener Tagblatt (") / Neues Wiener Tagblatt. Evening edition of the New Wiener Tagblatt / Wiener Mittagsausgabe with Sportblatt / 6 o'clock evening paper / Neues Wiener Tagblatt. Neue Freie Presse - Neues Wiener Journal / Neues Wiener Tagblatt , October 9, 1938, p. 15 (online at ANNO ).Template: ANNO / Maintenance / nwg
personal data
SURNAME Lanvin, Jeanne
ALTERNATIVE NAMES Lanvin, Jeanne-Marie (real name)
SHORT DESCRIPTION French fashion designer
DATE OF BIRTH January 1, 1867
PLACE OF BIRTH Paris
DATE OF DEATH July 6, 1946
PLACE OF DEATH Le Vésinet