Linlithgow Palace

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Linlithgow Palace , view from the northwest; in the background part of St. Michael's Church
Outer facade of the east wing

Linlithgow Palace is a ruined castle in the Scottish town of Linlithgow about 25 kilometers west of Edinburgh . The complex was the preferred residence of the Scottish kings for a long time and is the oldest of their remaining residences. Both Jacob V and Maria Stuart were born there.

The ruin stands on the banks of Loch Linlithgow, from which the city and castle take their name. The name results from the British expressions llyn for loch , llaith for damp and cau for hollow and means something like "lake in the damp lowland" ( English loch in the damp hollow ). The facility was built in five different construction phases. James I of Scotland built the east and a small part of the south wing from 1424 to 1437. In the period from 1460 to 1488, under Jacob III. the south wing extended and the west wing started. Between 1488 and 1513, Jacob IV had the west wing completed and closed the square with a north wing. Jacob V moved the main entrance to the south side and had an outer gate built for it. The construction of the Renaissance fountain in the inner courtyard of the complex goes back to him . Jacob VI , also King of England since 1603, finally had the north wing rebuilt from 1618 to 1624 after it collapsed in 1607.

Many Scottish queens preferred this country castle to the other large residences in cities such as Stirling or Edinburgh to raise their children there. In addition to Jacob V, Princess Elisabeth, known as the “Winter Queen”, grew up in Linlithgow. Other queens used the palace as a widow's seat, including Margaret Tudor and Anna of Denmark .

A fire in 1746 severely damaged the palace and made it a ruin . This is now in the care of Historic Scotland and is a monument of Category A since February 22, 1971, listed building . In 2011 the facility had over 62,000 paying visitors. The surrounding park and Linlithgow Loch are classified as Scheduled Monument .

history

Previous buildings

Fragments of earthenware found during excavations indicate that a settlement could have existed at the site of today's castle as early as Roman times. For the year 1124, i.e. the reign of David I , a first, slightly fortified estate in royal possession is guaranteed in Linlithgow , which was used by David's successors for stays, because Malcolm IV of Scotland and William I sealed documents there. This first permanent house was taken by the English King Edward I during his war of conquest in Scotland, and in 1301/1302 he had it expanded into a castle and further fortified. Linlithgow was strategically located between Edinburgh and Stirling and was therefore an ideal location for a military base, which guaranteed the supply of the English troops. This first Edwards castle was separated from the rest of the village by a deep, man-made moat and was called the Peel of Linlithgow , a name that has passed to today's park and originally stood for a wooden palisade . The name also gives an indication of the nature of the complex, which consisted mainly of wooden structures. James of St. George was in charge of the renovation and expansion for Edward I, and Harlech Castle was also built according to his plans . Just like his father, Edward II of England also used the castle in Linlithgow; for example, the king's stay there in 1310 is known.

After winning the Battle of Bannockburn , some of the villagers managed to storm the castle under the leadership of a farmer named William Bunncok and wrest it from the English. Robert the Bruce had it grinded in the following period , so that the system was in ruins until around 1350. Then David II had it rebuilt to use it as a temporary residence. After his death, the three estates of Scotland gathered there and elected Robert II as their new king. He and his son Robert III. invested a lot of money in the maintenance of the castle, but it was destroyed in 1424 by a large fire that also affected much of the city and St. Michael's Church .

New construction through several generations

Jacob I (picture by an unknown artist from the 16th century) began building what is now the palace

King James I - only recently returned from his long imprisonment in England - took this as an opportunity to build a new building from 1425 onwards. It was the current east wing of the complex with a richly decorated portal and a short, adjoining south wing. This was possibly a remnant of the old castle, which might not have been completely destroyed in the fire. In 1429, work had progressed so far that James I was able to receive Regnault de Chartres , the Archbishop of Reims , there. It is possible that the Episcopal Palace of Winchester , which Cardinal Henry Beaufort , Queen Joan's uncle , had built for himself, had inspired the shape of Linlithgow. With the death of the king in 1437, work came to a standstill for the time being. By then, James I had invested around £ 7,000  in Linlithgow Palace , which was a tenth of all royal income.

Jacob's son Jacob II did not continue the work of his father, only his grandson Jacob III. This extended the south wing to its current length and had a short west wing built. The two wings were connected to each other by a square tower at the southwest corner. The complex was completed under Jacob IV. He extended the west wing and, by building the north wing, gave it its current form of a closed four-wing complex, the corner towers of which were one storey higher than the wings between them. The newly erected parts of the building served as royal apartments from then on. Jacob IV had the former living quarters in the south wing converted into a chapel around 1492 . In addition, a three-storey gallery was added to this wing on the courtyard side . All floors of the four wings of the building were accessible via newly built stair towers in the four corners of the inner courtyard. A barbican built around 1495 on the outer north-west corner of the castle can also be attributed to Jacob IV. This not only served military purposes, but also supported the east wing. The lively construction activity of the king in Linlithgow lined up seamlessly with numerous other construction companies of Jacob IV: During his reign he was also active in building in Stirling and Falkland . In Edinburgh he had the Great Hall built and Rothesay Castle remodeled. At the time of his wedding in 1503 to Margaret Tudor, the daughter of the English King Henry VII , most of the construction work in Linlithgow must have been completed because he made the palace a gift to his bride. At that time there was already a garden with a pleasure and kitchen garden to the west of the castle and a surrounding park that was also used for tournaments and target practice as well as a bowling green . In addition, there were probably wooden farm buildings in the area, such as workshops and horse stables.

When Jacob V ascended the Scottish throne, he was still a child. The affairs of state were conducted for him by regents . Linlithgow fell behind compared to other royal facilities for this time. But shortly after Jacob V had started to rule himself, he made various changes to the system in Linlithgow. Around 1535 he had the main entrance moved to the south side and an outer gate built 30 meters away. At the same time, the outer south facade was designed more symmetrically and the southeast corner tower was built as a counterpart to the southwest tower. The east portal was still used as a ceremonial entrance until the 17th century. In the middle of the inner courtyard, Jacob V had a three-story, richly carved fountain placed, the decoration of which was intended to be a symbol of power, but also of the king's sophistication and goodness. He had the stonemason Thomas French (also spelled Fransh) carry out numerous other embellishments, especially on the sculptural jewelry of the castle . Many of the remodeling and new decorations were initiated by James Hamilton of Finnart , the illegitimate son of the first Earl of Arran , who had been bailiff of Linlithgow since 1526 . He had spent several years on the European mainland and learned a lot about architecture and fortification technology there.

Decline and ruin

Although Linlithgow Palace was often used by the respective royal couple in the 16th century and numerous small structural changes took place, the state of construction of the complex was not good in the last quarter of that century. As early as 1583, Sir Robert Drummond, the master of works of Jacob VI, warned that the facility was very dilapidated and shabby. In a report from February 1599 there is the information that a quarter of the castle was in ruins at that time and the rest was badly in need of repair. However, nothing was done by the royal family to stop the building's deterioration. When Jacob VI. In 1603, when James I ascended the English throne and the court moved almost entirely to London, Linlithgow lost its status as one of the main residences of the Scottish kings. From then on, the facility was still managed by a Vogt, but was only rarely used for stays by the court. On September 6, 1607, between three and four in the morning, much of the north wing collapsed, and it would be eleven years before the king, on the occasion of his only visit to Scotland, ordered rebuilding in 1617. Construction began in 1618 and lasted six years. The head stonemason on site was William Wallace, under whose supervision one of the “most beautiful Renaissance facades in Scotland” was built. Nevertheless, the Scottish royal family no longer used Linlithgow. Charles I of England was the last king to stay there (July 1, 1633).

Linlithgow Palace in 1782

After Oliver Cromwell had defeated the Scottish troops in the Battle of Dunbar , he set up camp with his soldiers in Linlithgow in September 1650 and spent the winter there. He even had the dilapidated facility fortified militarily. However, Charles II had the Cromwell extensions removed ten years later. In 1668 the complex was described as mostly ruinous, nevertheless Bonnie Prince Charlie stopped there briefly in 1745. British troops led by General Henry Hawley found refuge in the complex after the lost Battle of Falkirk in January 1746. To warm up and dry their wet clothes, the soldiers set fire to the building, which destroyed the building in a major fire on the morning of February 1, 1746. The city's magistrate did not feel responsible for fighting the fire, so the site was looted by the population, who took away what had not been destroyed by the flames. Since that disaster, Linlithgow Palace has been an uninhabited ruin that has never been used for residential purposes again.

Todays use

1835 Castle of the Royal Commission on woods and forests was ( English Commissioners of Woods and Forests betrayed). In 1874 she passed the ruins on to the Office of Works , the institution responsible for the construction and maintenance of the royal residences. As their successor organization, the facility is now owned by Historic Scotland, which maintains it and is restoring it piece by piece . Historic Scotland also oversees excavations that are carried out on the castle grounds and the Peel if necessary, for example an excavation in the period from November 1966 to 1967, during which it was hoped to find remains of the first castle of Edward I, what but did not succeed. Archaeologists have not been able to find any traces of the first fortification at this location .

Today Linlithgow Palace is open to the public. Special tours are offered at irregular intervals. These include, for example, guided tours by children for children or a ghost tour, during which visitors are informed about the two best-known ghosts of Linlithgau, among other things: On the one hand, the ghost of Marie de Guise , the wife of Jacob V, is to be spotted occasionally, on the other hand the castle, especially in April and september in the morning of the intended Blue lady ( English Blue lady ) are haunted by the entrance to the neighboring St. Michael's Church goes over, where they allegedly disappears. Since 2009 jousting games have been held on the palace grounds on a summer weekend every year . In 2014 this event attracted more than 7000 visitors. The ruin received worldwide attention in 2012 when the Metiers d'art collection by Chanel was presented there in December . Since then there has been talk of roofing over the north wing of the castle in order to be able to market the ruins as a weatherproof event location. Historic Scotland had already commissioned a feasibility study in 1996, which estimated the cost of such a project at six to ten million pounds .

description

The castle ruins stand on a rocky plateau on the southern edge of Linlithgow Loch and towers over the town of Linlithgow. In the immediate vicinity, south of it, is St. Michael's Church , which was built almost at the same time as Linlithgow Palace . The complex is surrounded by a large park called Peel , which is known for its diverse flora and fauna . Together with the hole, it is under protection as the Site of Special Scientific Interest .

Linlithgow is a closed four-wing complex with massive towers at the corners, the wings of which enclose a rectangular inner courtyard measuring 90 × 87  feet (about 27.5 × 26.5 meters). In its four corners there are stair towers for vertical access to the building wings. The construction material used was gray and yellow sandstone , most of which came from quarries in Kingscavil and Fairnie Craig east of Linlithgow. Today the masonry of the building is exposed, but it used to be completely plastered .

Gates and south wing

The four coats of arms above the outer gate

The visitor approaches the facility from the south and must first pass an external gate. It shows the coats of arms of the four orders of knights to which the builder Jacob V belonged above the pointed arched gateway . The garter symbolizes the English Order of the Garter , while the thistle for the Scottish Order of the Thistle is. The third coat of arms symbolizes the Burgundian Order of the Golden Fleece , and the lilies of the fourth coat of arms symbolize the French Order of Michael . The stone heraldic shields, however, are no longer the originals from the 16th century, but replicas from 1845. Behind the outer gate is a forecourt, in which stables and farm buildings used to stand and which is now used as a parking lot. The most striking element of the southern facade of Linlithgow Palace facing the car park are the high arched windows with profiled walls and Gothic tracery . They mark the location of the former palace chapel on the first floor. Inside there are niches between the chapel windows that used to contain statues. Their console stones are still preserved and show reliefs of angels playing on an instrument. In the vaulted ground floor of the south wing there was once a bakery under the chapel.

Inner courtyard and stair towers

Fountain in the courtyard

In order to get into the inner courtyard of the castle, a gate-like porch must be passed through on the south side of the building. This is flanked by two small round towers with oval loopholes . On the inside of the south wing, the remains of a sculpted Annunciation scene can be found above the gateway . The courtyard is dominated by a central, octagonal stone fountain from the Renaissance period, a copy of which stands in the courtyard of Holyrood Palace . It consists of three pyramid-like arranged water basins, which are connected to each other by stone arches, and is decorated with elaborately designed ornaments and figures on all corners. In the past, like all the other statues in the palace, these were brightly painted. The fountain is crowned by a stone crown. An alliance coat of arms with the emblems of Scotland and France commemorates the wedding of Jacob V with the French Princess Madeleine de Valois , daughter of Francis I. The fountain may have been damaged by the British soldiers camped there as early as 1746, because in the early 1800s The first repairs were probably made. During further repair work in the period from 1937 to 1939, parts of the lost stone jewelry were reconstructed . Two thirds of its original substance has now been replaced by replicas. Since the last major restoration between 2000 and 2005, the fountain has been fully functional again, which can be seen every Sunday in July and August. Three of the stair towers in the corners of the inner courtyard have their own names. The southwest tower is called the king's turnpike . Its entrance door on the ground floor is formally highlighted compared to the other tower entrances by a keel arch over the lintel . The empty console stone above it proves that a statue once stood above the door. The name queen's turnpike for the north-western stair tower, on which the former statue above the entrance is also missing, indicates that the queen's apartments on the second floor of the west wing could be reached via it. The top, octagonal storey of the tower has a stone ceiling with groin vault and a surrounding stone bench on the wall. This room is called Queen Margaret's Bower because, according to legend, Queen Margaret Tudor looked in vain for her husband Jacob IV there in the fall of 1513, so that he might return home unscathed from the battle of Flodden Field . The north-east stair tower that led into the castle kitchen also has a meaningful name. It's called the kitchen turnpike .

East wing

Courtyard view of the former main portal

The east wing is the oldest part of the complex. The pillars of the barbican that can be seen on the outside at its northern end were previously hidden behind three high towers, of which only the foundations are preserved today. The former magnificent portal is in the middle of the wing and was previously secured by a portcullis and a drawbridge . The recesses in the masonry for their beam guidance are still clearly visible today. Some of the portal's intricate stone sculptures are still preserved today, such as the royal coat of arms flanked by two angels above the round archway. To the right and left of the gate there are niches in which there used to be statues, probably depicting Saint Andrew and Saint Jacob. The former main portal was also decorated with sculptures on the facade facing the courtyard. Under a flat keel arch there are three empty niches for statues that once represented the three estates . With the exception of a pair of feet, they are no longer preserved today. Directly next to the portal is the room for the gate guards on the ground floor, from which a trapdoor in the floor leads to the dungeon below . Also on the ground floor of the north wing there is a well room with the preserved nine meter deep shaft of a draw well . This room also served as a second kitchen to support the main kitchen, which is one floor higher, at large parties and banquets . This is equipped with a large fireplace and a stove and is located in the northeast corner tower. From there you could easily reach the south adjoining the Great Hall ( english great hall ) use. This room was used for representation, receptions, meetings and celebrations took place there. It could be reached from the inner courtyard through a wide door to which a wooden staircase, which was later broken off, led up. The hall has a floor plan of 30 × 9 meters and is two storeys high. In the upper half of the wall, large windows that were knocked out at the time of Jacob IV ensure sufficient light. Their glazing once consisted of colorful glass paintings . Statues used to stand on platforms between the window niches. The remains of a gallery for minstrels can be found on the northern front side . The dominant component, however, is the large, seven-meter-wide Renaissance chimney on the south side of the room. It was installed there by James IV around 1500 and was not only one of the most magnificent and valuable chimneys at the time, but is still unique in Scotland today. It is in three parts and has Gothic columns that support a lintel decorated with foliage . Above that there are four sculpted consoles that served as pedestals for candlesticks. The Great Hall was after hanging there Banner with the royal emblem and lions rooms ( english lyon chamber called).

West wing

The fireplace in the audience room is very similar to a fireplace in Stirling Castle

The royal apartments were located in the west wing of the palace. The King were on the first floor and consisted of a series of three rooms, which increased from south to north of privacy: The great hall of the King ( English king's hall ) was followed by a presence chamber called room before the visitors arrived in the bedroom . There was a similar sequence of rooms, probably for the queen, on the second floor above. However, it is no longer preserved. In the hall of the King waited visitors to be admitted to the king and one audience to get with him. The deep window niches of the room have benches. Its exterior façade reveals the walled-in approach of a balcony that overlooked the royal gardens. A staircase in the thick wall leads down to the ground floor, where there was a large wine cellar. The corbels of its vaulted ceiling are decorated with sculptures that show people drinking and thus indicate the type of use of the cellar. To the north, the English king’s hall is adjoined by an audience room, which also has benches in the window niches. Its stone slab floor was decorated with ornaments and initials . One of these original floor plates has been preserved and shows the initials of Jacob IV and his wife Margaret (I and M). The slab can be seen in a small exhibition on the first floor of the courtyard-facing gallery in the south wing. The large chimney on the outer wall used to be brightly painted, as evidenced by the remains of paint found in 1860. It is very similar to a fireplace at Stirling Castle and may have been designed by the same stonemason. The unusual window in the form of a ladder dates from the time of Jacob V and was intended to provide better lighting for the artistically designed ceiling. The king's private bedroom in the northwest corner tower of the complex was equipped with a washing facility and had access to a kind of treasury, where valuable items of the royal household were kept when they were not on display for representation purposes. A small oratorio adjoins the room in the east . The queen's prayer chapel used to exist directly to the east, but was almost completely destroyed when the north wing collapsed in 1607.

North wing

Courtyard facade of the north wing

The latest addition to Linlithgow Palace is its north wing from the first quarter of the 17th century. Although it has five floors, this wing is the same height as the other three-story palace wings. Its ground floor was used as a warehouse, while the remaining floors were used for residential purposes. The first floor was the main living area with a 72 × 16 foot (approx. 22 × 5 meter) gallery-like hall that could be heated by two large chimneys. The floors above provided accommodation for employees and courtiers, which always consisted of two separate, heated rooms. This also explains the large number of chimneys on the roof of the wing. They result from a total of 39 chimneys in this part of the castle. The facade facing the courtyard with its octagonal, central stair tower shows reminiscences of the Danish architecture of that time, which was due to the descent of Queen Anna. Due to the large, regularly arranged rectangular windows with round and triangular gables, the facade has a certain resemblance to the south wing of Kronborg Castle . The reliefs in the window gables symbolize the union of the crowns of Scotland and England: The inscription IR6 with the Scottish thistle stands for the Latin "Jacobus Rex VI" , while IR1 in combination with the English rose means "Jacobus Rex VI" . The year 1619 in one of the gables also indicates the time of construction.

literature

  • Ian Campbell: Linlithgow's 'Princely Palace' and its Influence in Europe . In: Architectural Heritage . Vol. 5, 1995, ISSN  1350-7524 , pp. 1-20 ( digitized version ).
  • Martin Coventry: The castles of Scotland. A comprehensive reference and gazetteer to more than 2000 castles . 2nd Edition. Goblinshead, Edinburgh 1997, ISBN 1-899874-10-0 , pp. 239-240.
  • Adrian Cox: Linlithgow Palace. The official souvenir guide . Historic Scotland, [Edinburgh] 2010, ISBN 978-1-84917-046-8 .
  • Richard Dargie: Scottish castles & fortifications . 2nd Edition. GW Publishing, Thatcham 2009, ISBN 978-0-9561211-0-3 , p. 76.
  • John G. Dunbar: Scottish royal palaces. The architecture of the royal residences during the late Medieval and early Renaissance periods . Tuckwell, East Linton 1999, ISBN 1-86232-042-X , pp. 5-21, 217-222 ( digitized ).
  • Lloyd R. Laing: Excavations at Linlithgow Palace, West Lothian, 1966-7 . In: Proceedings of the Society of Antiquaries of Scotland . Volume 99, 1968, ISSN  0081-1564 , pp. 111-147 ( PDF ; 2.9 MB).
  • Lloyd R. Laing: Medieval and other material in Linlithgow Palace museum . In: Proceedings of the Society of Antiquaries of Scotland . Volume 101, 1970, ISSN  0081-1564 , pp. 134-145 ( PDF ; 1.1 MB).
  • David MacGibbon, Thomas Ross: The castellated and domestic architecture of Scotland . Volume 1. David Douglas, Edinburgh 1887, pp. 478-501 ( digitized ).
  • Denys Pringle: Linlithgow Palace. A historical guide to the royal palace and peel . HMSO, Edinburgh 1989.
  • JS Richardson, James Beveridge: Linlithgow Palace, West Lothian . 2nd Edition. HMSO, Edinburgh 1963.

Web links

Commons : Linlithgow Palace  - Collection of Images, Videos and Audio Files

Individual evidence

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  3. ^ Information about the city of Linlithgow at undiscoveredscotland.com , accessed December 31, 2016.
  4. ^ Palace attracts more visitors . In: Linlithgow Gazette . Edition of June 26, 2012 ( online ).
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  7. Linlithgow Palace on Historic Scotland's website , accessed July 12, 2013.
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  9. ^ A. Cox: Linlithgow Palace. The official souvernir guide , p. 38.
  10. ^ According to A. Cox: Lilitgow Palace. The official souvernir guide , p. 39. According to other sources, the new building did not begin until 1426.
  11. ^ A. Cox: Linlithgow Palace. The official souvernir guide , p. 6.
  12. ^ JG Dunbar: Scottish royal palaces. The architecture of the royal residences during the late Medieval and early Renaissance periods , pp. 8–9.
  13. ^ A. Cox: Linlithgow Palace. The official souvernir guide , p. 39.
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  17. ^ A. Cox: Linlithgow Palace. The official souvernir guide , p. 40.
  18. ^ A. Cox: Linlithgow Palace. The official souvernir guide , p. 28.
  19. a b A. Cox: Linlithgow Palace. The official souvernir guide , p. 4.
  20. a b J. G. Dunbar: Scottish royal palaces. The architecture of the royal residences during the late Medieval and early Renaissance periods , p. 20.
  21. ^ R. Dargie: Scottish castles & fortifications , p. 76.
  22. ^ A. Cox: Linlithgow Palace. The official souvernir guide , p. 45.
  23. a b A. Cox: Linlithgow Palace. The official souvernir guide , p. 49.
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  26. a b Entry on Linlithgow Palace  in Canmore, Historic Environment Scotland database, accessed July 15, 2013.
  27. Dane Love: Scottish Ghosts . Amberley Publishing, 2013, ISBN 978-1-4456-3074-8 , o. S. ( digitized version )
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  31. ^ A. Cox: Linlithgow Palace. The official souvernir guide , p. 9.
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  33. Listed Building - Entry . In: Historic Scotland .
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Coordinates: 55 ° 58 ′ 43.6 ″  N , 3 ° 36 ′ 3 ″  W.

This version was added to the list of articles worth reading on February 17, 2015 .