Oswald Oelz

Oswald Oelz (1978)

Oswald "Bulle" Oelz (born February 6, 1943 in Rankweil , Vorarlberg ) is an Austrian - Swiss doctor and mountaineer . From 1991 to 2006 he was chief physician at Triemli City Hospital . In addition to his work as a physician, the internist and altitude medicine specialist did extreme mountaineering, participated in numerous expeditions in the Himalayas and gave slide lectures on his climbing tours.

biography

After graduating from high school in Feldkirch, Oswald Oelz studied medicine at the University of Innsbruck . In 1968 he then switched to research at the University Hospital Zurich , where he also trained as an internist . In 1974 he went to Vanderbilt University in Nashville and did research there for three years. Between 1978 and 1991 he was senior physician and deputy clinic director at the University Hospital Zurich. He completed his habilitation in 1980 and became adjunct professor in 1987 . After 1991 he became chief physician at the Triemli Hospital in Zurich and remained so until 2006. His research focus was on insulin-like growth factors and, since 1978, on all facets of high altitude pulmonary edema and altitude sickness .

Oelz is married to Vanessa Oelz-Guetermann and lives in Wernetshausen .

He has been a member of the "KMV Clunia Feldkirch" since his high school days. In 1961 he became a member of the “ AV Vindelicia Innsbruck ” during his studies .

Alpinism

As an expedition doctor, Oswald Oelz has accompanied numerous expeditions in the Himalayas, including mountaineers such as Reinhold Messner , Peter Habeler and Hans Kammerlander . In 1978 he was one of the two doctors on the controversial expedition to Mount Everest ( 8,848  m ), during which Messner and Habeler climbed the mountain for the first time without additional oxygen. Oelz and six other expedition members were successful with oxygen bottles.

In 1972 Oelz traveled to the Himalayas to climb Manaslu ( 8163  m ) , but it did not succeed. As part of an expedition in 1979, he tried to climb the Ama Dablam north east ridge ( 6856  m ). Reaching the summit was not possible due to a rescue operation. In 1981 he accompanied an expedition to Shishapangma ( 8027  m ), in 1982 he failed at Cho Oyu ( 8188  m ) due to brain edema . In 1983 he survived an avalanche burial at the Glacier Dome ( 7193  m ) in the Annapurna massif . With the Shishapangma, Oelz climbed his second eight-thousander in 1985 . An attempt to climb Makalu ( 8485  m ) failed in 1986. He reached the summit of Ama Dablam in 1995.

Oswald Oelz was the third person to reach all the summits of the Seven Summits in 1990 according to the Carstensz version : Aconcagua ( 6961  m , 1974 & 1986), Mount McKinley ( 6190  m , 1976), Mount Everest (1978), Mount Vinson ( 4892  m , 1986 ), Kibo ( 5895  m , 1987), Mount Kosciuszko ( 2228  m , 1989), Elbrus ( 5642  m , 1989) and Carstensz pyramid ( 4884  m , 1990).

In the Alps, he climbed the three great north faces of the Alps with the Matterhorn north face, the Eiger north face (1995) and the Walker pillar of the Grandes Jorasses .

Publications (selection)

• With ice ax and stethoscope. AS Verlag , Zurich 1999, ISBN 978-3-905111-42-2 .
• Mountains of headaches. A history of altitude medicine. AS Verlag, Zurich 2001 (with Elisabeth Simons), ISBN 978-3-905111-59-0 .
• Everest, Lhotse - Swiss on Everest 1952 and 1956. AS Verlag, Zurich 2006, ISBN 978-3-909111-23-7 .
• Himalayas. Expeditions and films 1952–1971. AS Verlag, Zurich 2007 (with Andreas Nickel (ed.) & Norman Dyhrenfurth), ISBN 978-3-909111-41-1 .
• Adrenaline, bullshit and chemotherapy. Real time, Basel 2007, ISBN 978-3-905800-07-4 .
• Places I lived before I died AS Verlag, Zurich 2011, ISBN 978-3-909111-82-4 .

According to the company, there are also around 300 scientific publications, such as:

• Oswald Oelz, Manfred Ritter, Rolf Jenni, Marco Maggiorini, Urs Waber, Peter Vock, Peter Bärtsch: Nifedipine for High Altitude Pulmonayr Edema . In: The Lancet . tape 334 , no. 8674 , November 25, 1989, pp. 1241-1244 , doi : 10.1016 / S0140-6736 (89) 91851-5 .

Oelz's position within a musical project should also be mentioned:

• Fulfilling suffering and redeeming death. Reflection on the text of the cantata by Johann Sebastian Bach : I would like to carry the cross staff , BWV 56. On the occasion of the performance in Trogen on October 24, 2014.
  • as DVD: With Klaus Mertens (bass), choir and orchestra of the JS Bach Foundation , Rudolf Lutz (conductor). Including an introductory workshop with Karl Graf and Rudolf Lutz as well as reflection by Oswald Oelz. Gallus Media, 2015.

Awards (selection)

• 2003: Vorarlberg Science Prize

Filmography

• Still Alive - Drama on Mt. Kenya . Documentation 2016. Director: Reinhold Messner.

Web links

• Literature by and about Oswald Oelz in the catalog of the German National Library
• Official website of Oswald Oelz
• Oswald Oelz on bergfieber.de
• "I want to climb until I'm dead." In: Tages-Anzeiger from May 24, 2011

Individual evidence

1. ^ KMV Clunia Feldkirch: The Clunier. (PDF) Retrieved September 12, 2017 . 
2. ↑ Österreichischer Cartellverband: Complete directory of the ÖCV . Ed .: ÖCV. 2000th edition.
3. ↑ See The 7summits Carstensz Pyramid List (7summits.com) English, Retrieved January 22, 2009.
4. ^ Oswald Oelz - Bücher , accessed December 26, 2013.
5. ↑ Product information ( Memento of the original from May 5, 2015 in the Internet Archive ) Info: The archive link was inserted automatically and has not yet been checked. Please check the original and archive link according to the instructions and then remove this notice. on the website of the JS Bach Foundation, accessed on April 30, 2015. 
6. ↑ University of Zurich ( Memento of the original from October 9, 2015 in the Internet Archive ) Info: The archive link was inserted automatically and has not yet been checked. Please check the original and archive link according to the instructions and then remove this notice. Awards and Honors 2003, accessed March 11, 2009