Suckenie

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Werner von Teufen with blue, his lady with red Suckenie. Codex Manesse , around 1320

As suckenîe , also suggenîe , a sleeveless outer dress is referred to in German and French sources from the 12th to 14th centuries.

Etymologically, the word probably comes from Slavonic ( sukno , "woolen cloth") than originally from French ( souquenie, sorquanie , clerical upper garment). Since there is no clear correlation between medieval image sources and textual evidence for suckenîe , an exact definition is difficult. Therefore the terminology in the scientific literature is inconsistent and a precise demarcation (if at all necessary) to Surkot , Kürsen or kursit has not succeeded. One thing is certain: The Suckenie was worn by men and women, in the later days more by women. It was an item of clothing that was worn over the shirt ("cotte") and under the coat. It was sleeveless, at best short-sleeved and not belted. Variants that consisted of wide front and back pieces, connected by seams over the shoulder and open at the sides are also described. Medieval texts often emphasize the preciousness of the suckenîe (silk, gold, scarlet , ermine lining ), but this does not rule out that the cut was also used in dresses in less elegant layers. A distinctive variant was characterized by extremely enlarged armholes; at the end of the 13th century one can find examples of women's dresses in which the openings are cut out in a wide arc from the armpit to the waist, so that the tops appear almost reduced to straps. The neckline could be provided with a small button placket.

Individual evidence

  1. ↑ Henrike Manuwald: Medialer Dialog the 'Große Bilderhandschrift' by Willehalm Wolfram von Eschenbach and their contexts , 2008, p. 188 (with further literature on these contradictions).
  2. ↑ Friedrich Hottenroth: Trachten, Haus- und Kriegsgeräte ..., Vol. 2, 1891, p. 60 (upper garment of "servants of noble people").
  3. ↑ Annemarie Bönsch: History of Forms of European Clothing , Vienna, 2nd ed., 2011, p. 80, all too arbitrarily mentioned as a criterion to distinguish it from surcot.

literature

  • Harry Hühnel: Picture dictionary of clothing and armor , Kröner: Stuttgart 1992, p. 256.
  • Ingrid Loschek: Reclams Mode and Costume Lexicon , Stuttgart 1987, p. 445.