Alois Pollinger

Alois Pollinger (born February 22, 1844 in St. Niklaus ; † April 16, 1910 there ) was a Swiss mountaineer and mountain guide . Alois Pollinger is the inventor of the abseiling technique with double rope.

Family and mountain guide

Home of the mountain guide Alois Pollinger senior in St. Niklaus Dorf as seen from Dorfstrasse.

Alois Pollinger from St. Niklaus in the Swiss canton of Valais was a brother-in-law of Josef Marie Lochmatter , the founder and ancestor of the well-known St. Niklaus mountain guide dynasty. Pollinger began his mountain guide career as a porter for Josef Marie Lochmatter in the early 1860s.

Josef Marie Lochmatter married Maria Josefa Pollinger, the oldest sister of Alois Pollinger, in 1861. Pollinger was married twice. His sons

Josef Pollinger (1873–1943),
Alois Pollinger (1875–1945),
Heinrich Pollinger (1885–1953),
Alexander Pollinger (1887–1953),
Hermann Pollinger (1901–1950) and

his grandchildren

Adolf Pollinger (1898–1980),
Karl Pollinger (1903–1977),
Linus Pollinger (1910–1952),
Werner Pollinger (1919–1999),
Anton Pollinger (1927-2003)

also became mountain guides.

“King” of difficult climbing tours and a technical pioneer

Alois Pollinger is the "king" of difficult climbing tours, for example in 1882 he made the first ascent of the Zinal ridge of Dent Blanche ( 4357 m above sea level ), which, according to him, is also known as "Viereselsgrat".

He is also the inventor of modern abseiling technology with double rope. On a larger tour, Pollinger successfully used this technique for the first time on August 25 and 26, 1884, when descending the steep west ridge of Dent Blanche.

First ascents (selection)

August 11, 1882: Ascent over the Zinalgrat / Viereselsgrat of the Dent Blanche
August 6, 1884: direct ascent from the Bergli (south) to the Eigerjoch and the Eiger
25th and 26th August 1884: Descent over the west ridge / Ferpècle ridge of Dent Blanche
the other first ascents see below under literature

literature

Christian Imboden: Mountains: job, calling, fate . Rotten Verlag , Visp 2013, ISBN 3-907624-48-3 . Pages 84 ff .: Alois Pollinger (1844-1910) , pages 115 ff .: The first ascents

Web links

Commons : Alois Pollinger - Collection of images, videos and audio files

Four photos of Alois Pollinger Senior (1844–1910) and one photo of Alois Pollinger Junior (1875–1945) , accessed on September 30, 2016.
Three photos by Josef Pollinger (1873–1943) , first photo with wrong birth and death dates 1862–1920, accessed on September 30, 2016.
Photo by Alexander Pollinger (1887–1953) , accessed September 30, 2016.
Bernard Truffer: Alois Pollinger. In: Historical Lexicon of Switzerland .
Alois Pollinger and Josef Pollinger , from Aveg-WVFF-Bulletin , 19, 1989-2009, pp. 104-106; Retrieved September 19, 2016.

Individual evidence

↑ Christian Imboden: Mountains: Profession, Vocation, Fate . Rotten Verlag, Visp 2013, ISBN 3-907624-48-3 . Pages 172 ff .: The St. Niklaus mountain guide families. The Pollinger mountain guides .
↑ Christian Imboden: Mountains: Profession, Vocation, Fate . Rotten Verlag, Visp 2013, ISBN 3-907624-48-3 . Pages 84 f .: King of difficult climbing tours .
↑ Christian Imboden: Mountains: Profession, Vocation, Fate . Rotten Verlag, Visp 2013, ISBN 3-907624-48-3 . Pages 120 and 85: Inventor of modern abseiling technology .

personal data
SURNAME	Pollinger, Alois
ALTERNATIVE NAMES	Pollinger, Aloys
BRIEF DESCRIPTION	Swiss mountaineer and mountain guide pioneer
DATE OF BIRTH	February 22, 1844
PLACE OF BIRTH	St. Niklaus , Canton of Valais, Switzerland
DATE OF DEATH	April 16, 1910
Place of death	St. Niklaus , Canton of Valais, Switzerland

[1] Christian Imboden: Mountains: Profession, Vocation, Fate . Rotten Verlag, Visp 2013, ISBN 3-907624-48-3 . Pages 172 ff .: The St. Niklaus mountain guide families. The Pollinger mountain guides .

[2] Christian Imboden: Mountains: Profession, Vocation, Fate . Rotten Verlag, Visp 2013, ISBN 3-907624-48-3 . Pages 84 f .: King of difficult climbing tours .

[3] Christian Imboden: Mountains: Profession, Vocation, Fate . Rotten Verlag, Visp 2013, ISBN 3-907624-48-3 . Pages 120 and 85: Inventor of modern abseiling technology .