Bernd Arnold

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Bernd Arnold on the “Peukers Problem” climbing path at the Basteischluchtturm

Bernd Arnold (born February 28, 1947 in Hohnstein ) is a German climber and mountaineer .

Arnold became known through a large number of difficult first ascents of climbing routes in Saxon Switzerland . The trained printer has been running two mountain sports shops since the fall of the Wall and also offers climbing courses in Saxon Switzerland.

A peculiarity of Arnold's climbing style, which has made him known in other climbing areas worldwide, is his barefoot climbing almost always. He even climbed some of the most difficult routes without climbing shoes.

In 1986 Arnold was allowed to travel to Greece for an event of the World Peace Council. From spring 1989 Arnold was also on the road as a mountaineer in many mountains around the world, after his radius of action had previously been restricted to Eastern Bloc countries. As early as the 1970s he had received invitations from the American Mountaineering Association to visit the USA, which he was not allowed to accept. He was only able to travel to western countries in a few exceptions. In his climbing team, two followers of the SED reported on his contacts with well-known West German mountaineers such as B. Wolfgang Güllich , Kurt Albert and Dietrich Hasse . With Kurt Albert he was among others in the Karakoram or in Patagonia .

Today Arnold is promoting a limited relaxation of the Saxon climbing rules in order to take into account current developments in sport climbing such as bouldering and plaisir climbing . In expanding the accessible climbing area, he sees the opportunity to preserve classic paths and to relieve individual climbing rocks and the surrounding nature through a better distribution of climbers in the area.

Arnold lives in his native Hohnstein and was honored on July 5th, 2008 with the honorary citizenship of his hometown.

Important first ascents

Arnold performed most of his first ascent in the 1970s and 1980s. A total of more than 900 new paths in Saxon Switzerland are on his account. Known are among others:

  • Saxon Switzerland
    • Schwager North Face ( Saxon Difficulty IXb)
    • Southern Pfaffenschluchtspitze 1000-Mark-Wall (IXc)
    • Great Watchtower Direct Superlatives (IXc)
    • Amselspitze sound barrier (Xa)
    • Teufelsturm Teufelei (Xa)
    • Sweden Tower 6th attempt (Xb)
    • Heringstein barometer for moods (Xc)
    • Falkenstein Shimmering Soap Bubble (IXc)
    • Rococo Tower Garden of Eden (Xc)
  • Worldwide
    • Pumprisse , Fleischbankpfeiler, Tyrol first continuous free ascent
    • Riders on the Storm at the Central Tower of Paine in Patagonia (9 / A2, UIAA)
    • Royal Flash at Fitz Roy (9, UIAA)
    • Pillar Rojo am Mermoz (9-, UIAA)
    • From the mouse hole , bell, Adrspach, Czech Republic (IXa)
    • Big Wall , President, Bohemian Switzerland, Czech Republic (VIIIc)

literature

  • Bernd Arnold: Between the snail shell and the cathedral . Panico-Alpinverlag, 1999, ISBN 3-926807-69-5 .
  • Bernd Arnold: Oscar Schuster and me. An attempt at rapprochement. In: OSCAR SCHUSTER. Mountaineer-alpinist-developer-doctor-publicist. Monographs Saxon Mountaineering. Pp. 34-54. Saxon Mountaineering Association, 2013.
  • Peter Brunnert : Bernd Arnold - A border crossing. A biographical documentation. Panico Alpinverlag, 2017, ISBN 978-3-95611-080-1 .

Individual evidence

  1. Thomas Purschke: Climbing in the GDR: Going beyond borders . In: The daily newspaper: taz . July 29, 2019, ISSN  0931-9085 ( taz.de [accessed November 20, 2019]).
  2. Hartmut Landgraf: Bernd Arnold: There is enough rock for everyone. In: Sächsische Zeitung , 21./22. June 2008
  3. http://www.bergsteigerbund.de/dokumente/mtb/mtb_2008_3.pdf
  4. Helmut Schulze: Countless red wine bottles and 900 Saxon first ascents . In: The new Saxon mountaineer; SBB newsletter, 1/07, p. 36 (PDF; 1.9 MB)