Ernst Reiss

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Ernst Reiss (1956)

Ernst "Ere" Reiss (born February 24, 1920 in Davos ; † August 3, 2010 in Basel ) was a Swiss mountaineer. Together with Fritz Luchsinger , on May 18, 1956, he managed the first ascent of the 8,516 meter high Lhotse , the fourth highest mountain on earth.

Life

Reiss grew up in Davos, trained as a locksmith and worked as an aircraft plumber at the Unterbach airfield near Meiringen . During this time he was involved in the spectacular rescue operation for the crashed American Dakota C-53 . He later moved to Basel and worked for a sportswear company until he retired. He was an active trade unionist in the Swiss Metal and Watch Workers Association , a member of the Naturfreunde tourist association and the Swiss Alpine Club . The Austrian Alpine Club accepted him as an honorary member.

Ernst Reiss (right) and Dölf Reist at the top of the meat bank in the Wilder Kaiser in 1951

The passionate mountaineer has made several first ascents in the Alps, including the northeast face of the Gspaltenhorn and the southeast face of the Kleiner Wellhorn in the Bernese Oberland . In the fall of 1952, Reiss reached the south saddle on Mount Everest with the Swiss post-monsoon expedition , which, however, was forced to turn back by a hurricane.

Reiss was the mountaineering chief of the Swiss Everest-Lhotse expedition in 1956 . The expedition set up several high camps in late April / early May. From the high camp on the “Genfer Sporn”, Luchsinger and Reiss reached the summit of Lhotse on May 18th, Ernst Schmied and Jürg Marmet on May 23rd and a day later Dölf Reist and Hansruedi von Gunten achieved the second and third ascent of Mount Everest.

In 1959 Ernst Reiss and Erich Haltiner made the second ascent of Pumasillu in the Peruvian Andes , and he made the first ascent in the Andes on another expedition in 1965.

Himalaya expedition 1956: man with camera Dölf Reist, Ernst Reiss on his right

Works

  • My way as a mountaineer . Frauenfeld: Huber 1959

literature

  • Everest, Lhotse. Swiss on Everest in 1952 and 1956 . Edited by the Swiss Foundation for Alpine Research. Text by Oswald Oelz . Zurich: AS Verlag 2006
  • Workers on eight-thousanders . In: Emil Zopfi : Poets on the mountain. Alpine literature from Switzerland. Zurich: AS Verlag 2009
  • Hansruedi von Gunten: First on the Lhotse. On the death of Ernst Reiss . In: NZZ , August 13, 2010, p. 49.
  • Ernst Reiss: My path as a mountaineer - first to climb Lhotse . Revised and re-edited by Emil Zopfi. Zurich: AS Verlag 2013

Web links

Individual evidence

  1. Aargauer Zeitung of April 25, 2006