Rotwand (Rosengarten Group)
| Rotwand | ||
|---|---|---|
 The Rotwand from the southwest |
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| height | 2806 m slm | |
| location | South Tyrol / Trentino border , Italy | |
| Mountains | Rose garden , Dolomites | |
| Dominance | 0.83 km → Tscheiner peak | |
| Notch height | 246 m ↓ Vajolon Pass | |
| Coordinates | 46 ° 25 '28 " N , 11 ° 37' 17" E | |
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| rock | Sciliar dolomite | |
| Normal way | Via ferrata | |
 Rotwand from the south (Teufelswand) |
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 Rotwandhütte (Rifugio Roda di Vael, 2280 m) |
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The Rotwand ( Italian Roda di Vaèl ) is a 2806 m slm high mountain in the Rosengarten group in the Dolomites . Especially due to its steep south-west face, the Rotwand is an important climbing mountain .
Location and surroundings
The Rotwand is the highest elevation in the southern Catinaccio ridge, which forms the border between South Tyrol ( Eggental ) in the west and Trentino ( Fassatal ) in the east. To the southwest, the Rotwand falls with a steep 400 meter high rock face. This has the mountain by the yellow-reddish color of the red wall-building Schlern dolomite helped to its name. The east wall reaches about the same height, but is a little flatter. To the north, a rocky ridge to extend 2,560 m high Vajolonpass (Passo di Vajolon) . To the south, a broad ridge leads down to a notch that separates the Rotwand from the 2727 m high Teufelswand (Roda del Diavolo) and the 2670 m high window tower (Torre de la Finestra) .
Bases and paths
The settlement closest to the Rotwand is the Karersee holiday village about 3 kilometers to the southwest. On the South Tyrolean side, the Paolina hut ( 2125 m ) is in the south of the mountain and the north-west Cologne hut (also Rosengartenhütte , or Rifugio Fronza alle Coronelle , 2337 m ). These two huts can be reached by chairlifts in the Carezza - Karersee ski area . In the southeast, on the Trentino side, you can find the Rotwandhütte (Rifugio Roda di Vaèl, 2280 m ) and the Baita M. Pederiva ( 2273 m ), named after the Rotwand .
Is the normal route to the summit of the Rotwandhaus as a light Klettersteig assured Nordgrat, in about 45 minutes leads from Vajolonpass to the summit and the difficulty of A / B has. The south flank, which is also insured, has the same difficulty. It is often used as the final part of the Masaré via ferrata , which leads from the south into the saddle south of the Rotspitze.
Several climbing routes of difficulty IV-VI lead through the east face. The numerous routes through the more important west face have difficulties between IV + and IX- and are among the most difficult climbing routes in the Rosengarten group.
history
A first ascent of the Rotwand is not known, as the mountain was climbed by local hunters and shepherds before the era of alpinism . At the beginning of the 20th century, the west face was considered one of the great unsolved problems of the Dolomites. She could on 11 August 1908 by Angelo Dibona and companions in five hours on today with IV + (according to route evaluation ) evaluated Dibonaführe first ascents are. This route is still a popular ascent today.
On September 11, 1958, Dietrich Hasse and Lothar Brandler opened up the Hermann-Buhl- Gedächtnisweg (VIII / VI A2), the most difficult route on the Rotwand, which was considered one of the most difficult climbs of its time in the Eastern Alps. In 1959 Jörg Lehne and Siegfried Löw managed the first winter ascent of this difficult route. In 1982 Heinz Mariacher did the first red point ascent .
In 2002 Christoph Hainz and Oswald Celva opened another difficult route with Moulin Rouge (IX-). In 2006 Martin and Florian Riegler were able to complete the Zwergenkönig route in the IX. First climb the level of difficulty.
literature
- Heinz Mariacher : Alpine Club Guide Dolomites Rosengarten Group . Ed .: German Alpine Association , Austrian Alpine Association , Alpine Association South Tyrol . Rother, Munich 1988, ISBN 3-7633-1250-1 .
Web links
Individual evidence
- ↑ Rotwand via ferrata. In: Bergstieg.com. June 26, 2015, accessed August 30, 2015 .
- ↑ Masaré via ferrata. In: Bergstieg.com. June 26, 2015, accessed August 30, 2015 .
- ↑ Christoph Hainz: "MOULIN ROUGE" Rotwand-SW wall. (No longer available online.) Archived from the original on November 7, 2006 ; Retrieved July 28, 2010 . Info: The archive link was inserted automatically and has not yet been checked. Please check the original and archive link according to the instructions and then remove this notice.
- ↑ "Dwarf King". (PDF; 171 kB) Retrieved July 28, 2010 .
