Seven Second Summits

Batian Mount Tyree K2 Mount Townsend Sumantri Dufourspitze Dychtau Mount Logan Ojos del Salado

The location of the Seven Second Summits. The positions of nine peaks are marked on the world map, which come into question depending on the definition of the continental borders.

The name Seven Second Summits [ ˈsevən ˈsekənd ˈsʌmɪts ] ( English for seven second summits ) summarizes the second highest mountains of the seven continents . Since there are different views of Asia’s borders with Europe on the one hand and Australia on the other, at least nine mountains come into question. In addition, due to different survey data, it has not been established with absolute certainty which mountain is the second highest mountain in Oceania.

Climbing all Seven Second Summits is considered a greater mountaineering challenge than climbing all Seven Summits , the highest mountains on each continent. Christian Stangl completed the climbing series of the Seven Second Summits for the first time on January 15, 2013.

definition

See also : Definition of the Seven Summits

The seven continents are Europe , Africa , Asia , Australia or Oceania , North America , South America and Antarctica (for other counts see number of continents ). Regarding the respective borders of Europe and Australia with Asia, there are various possible definitions that affect the question of which is the second highest mountain on these continents. Depending on the view of the Inner Urasian border, the Caucasus is either entirely part of Asia or north of its watershed part of Europe; after the second opinion would Dykh-Tau in the Caucasus is the second highest mountain in Europe, otherwise in the Alps located Dufourspitze .

Similar ambiguities exist with regard to Australia: If you reduce the continent to the Australian mainland , Mount Townsend is its second highest mountain. A traditional mountaineering approach speaks in favor of this, as the first Seven Summit list was compiled by the American Dick Bass based on this view. If you take the term wider, the continent also includes significantly higher peaks in the Indonesian part of the island of New Guinea . This corresponds to the second definition of the Seven Summits recognized by mountaineers, based on a suggestion by Reinhold Messner . Accordingly, the Indonesian Sumantri is one of the Seven Second Summits.

Uncertainty at Indonesia's second highest peak

Which is the second highest peak in Indonesia is fraught with uncertainty. In addition to the Sumantri, there are also Ngga Pulu , Ngga Pilimsit , Puncak Mandala and Puncak Trikora , all of which are over 4500 meters high. There are three main reasons for this uncertainty:

• In many places in Indonesia there is a lack of reliable data on the level of surveys. Sometimes there are contradicting information.
• The few measurements are partly out of date because some peaks are losing height as their ice caps melt.
• For some peaks it is disputed whether they are mountains in their own right. Because only separate mountain peaks are counted as part of the Seven Second Summits, not secondary peaks. For example, the southern tip of Mount Everest is not included, although at 8,750 meters it is significantly higher than K2 .

Measurements by Australian universities from 1973 showed that the Sumantri was only 4810 meters high, whereas the Ngga Pulu was given significantly higher at 4862 meters. Therefore, the Ngga Pulu was considered by many to be the second highest mountain in Indonesia. However, others deny it the necessary independence because of its low dominance and notch height and see it as a secondary summit of Indonesia's highest mountain, the Carstensz pyramid (see independence of Ngga Pulu ). on.

Accordingly, various sources, including the Indonesian Ministry of Tourism, named Puncak Trikora as the second highest mountain in Indonesia. An SRTM measurement from the year 2000, however, suggests that the Puncak Mandala is higher than the Puncak Trikora.

Private GPS data suggest that Sumantri is the second highest mountain in Indonesia, the height of which had been given significantly lower in older surveys.

list

The following table gives an overview of the most important dates for the individual mountains of the Second Seven Summits. The Dominance column shows the radius of the area over which the mountain dominates. The notch height is the height difference that you have to descend at least to a notch in order to get to a higher peak. In the columns LB and LM the mountains are marked that correspond to peaks from the lists by Bass and Messner .

continent	image	summit	height	Mountains	country	Dominance	Notch height	First ascent	LB	LM
Africa		Batian Mount Kenya	5199 m	Mount Kenya massif	Kenya	0324.3 km	3825 m	September 13, 1899 by J. Brocherel , H. Mackinder , C. Ollier .	✔	✔
Antarctic		Mount Tyree	4852 m	Sentinel Range	- ?	0014.5 km		January 6, 1967 by B. Corbet , J. Evans .	✔	✔
Asia		K2 Lambha Pahar, Chogori	8611 m	Karakoram	Pakistan , China	1315.6 km	4020 m	July 31, 1954 by A. Compagnoni , L. Lacedelli .	✔	✔
Australia		Mount Townsend	2209 m	Great dividing range	Australia	0003.7 km	0189 m	In 1837.	✔
		Sumantri	4870 m	Maoke Mountains	Indonesia	0002.38 km	approx. 350 m	In February 1962 by Heinrich Harrer and Phil Temple		✔
Europe		Dufourspitze	4634 m	Alps	Switzerland	0078.3 km	2165 m	August 1, 1855 by J. Birkbeck , C. Hudson , C. Smyth , J. Smyth , E. Stephenson .
		Dychtau	5204 m	Caucasus	Russia	0064.3 km	2002 m	In 1888 by A. Mummery , H. Zurfluh .	✔	✔
North America		Mount Logan	5959 m	Elias chain	Canada	0622.7 km	5247 m	On June 23, 1925 by A. Carpé , W. Foster , H. Lambart , A. MacCarthy , N. Read , A. Taylor .	✔	✔
South America		Ojos del Salado	6893 m	To the	Argentina , Chile	0630.7 km	3688 m	On February 26, 1937 by J. Szczepanski , J. Wojsznis .	✔	✔

annotation

^?is claimed by Chile and Great Britain , but only a few states recognize territorial claims on the Antarctic, see Political Status of Antarctica .

Comparison with the Seven Summits

The individual Seven Second Summits are almost always classified as a greater mountaineering challenge than the highest peaks on the respective continent. In addition, they are generally less accessible than the popular Seven Summits, so that mountaineers can fall back on less infrastructure here. Only the Carstensz pyramid is considered more demanding than Sumantri, Puncak Trikora or Ngga Pulu. At the same time, Australia is the only continent whose highest mountain - regardless of the definition of the Seven Second Summits - was first climbed after the second highest.

While no climber had completed the series of the second highest summits in August 2010, the 7summits.com website at that time listed the names of 275 climbers who had already climbed all Seven Summits. On May 25, 2012, the South Tyrolean Hans Kammerlander was the first to complete one of the versions of the climbing series on Mount Logan described here. Kammerlander has been to this mountain twice to complete his project after an ascent in 2010 was not recognized . On July 31 of the same year, the Austrian Christian Stangl completed another variant of the series. Unlike Kammerlander, who counts the Puncak Trikora to the Seven Second Summits, Stangl climbed all five candidates for the second highest mountain in Oceania. According to private measurements with GPS, Mount Sumantri is the right candidate. Both climbers have chosen the Dychtau as a representative of Europe for their ascent.

The following table gives a direct comparison between the individual Seven Second Summits and their respective counterparts from the list of Seven Summits. The column time difference first ascent indicates the time a peak was first climbed after the highest on its respective continent; negative values ​​mean that it was first climbed before the highest. Climbing levels of difficulty are stated in the scale of the respective source, in addition, the approximate equivalent in the UIAA scale is given in brackets .

summit	Counterpart	Height difference	Time difference first ascent	Comparison of distinctive requirements
Batian 5199 m	Kibo 5895 m	696 m	+10 years	The Batian is almost 700 m lower than the Kibo and therefore requires less acclimatization to the mountain air. However, easy trekking paths lead on the Kibo, while the rugged rocky pinnacle of the Batian requires climbing skills; the easiest route is rated 5.6 to 5.8 on the Sierra scale (V− to VI−).
Mount Tyree 4852 m	Mount Vinson 4892 m	040 m	+20 days	Technically, the slightly lower Mount Tyree is considered more difficult. One of the greatest challenges in the neighboring mountains is the extremely remote location (only around 1200 km to the South Pole ), the Antarctic cold and storms. Until 2007 the Tyree had only been climbed seven times, while by the same time well over a thousand climbers had reached the summit of Mount Vinson.
K2 8611 m	Mount Everest 8848 m	237 m	+10 months	The K2 is a good bit lower than the Mount Everest, but much steeper. While the requirements due to extreme altitude - such as lack of oxygen, strong winds and freezing cold - are almost comparable for both, the K2 is considered far more demanding among mountaineers and is repeatedly referred to as the most difficult eight-thousander .
Mount Townsend 2209 m	Mount Kosciuszko 2228 m	019 m	−3 years	Although mainland Australia's two highest peaks are both fairly easy to climb, Mount Townsend, which has a more prominent peak, is considered a little more difficult. The way to Mount Kosciuszko, on the other hand, is shorter and easier.
Sumantri 4870 m	Carstensz pyramid 4884 m	022 m	- <1 month
Ngga Pulu 4862 m		022 m	−25 years	The Ngga Pulu is also considered to be easier to climb than the Carstensz pyramid. The journey to both peaks is practically identical. The ascent to the Ngga Pulu is an easy glacier tour without major climbing requirements, such as the Carstensz pyramid.
Puncak Mandala 4640 m		244 m	−2 years
Puncak Trikora 4750 m		134 m	−49 years	Due to the location in the New Guinea jungle, both mountains are difficult to reach. The journey to the Puncak Trikora is shorter and easier than that to the Carstensz pyramid. In addition, the rugged and steep rock face of the Carstensz pyramid requires greater climbing skills. It is rated 5.10 (VI + to VII) on the Sierra scale, making it the most difficult of the Seven Summits.
Dufourspitze 4634 m	Mont Blanc 4810 m	176 m	+69 years	The Mont Blanc is the highest alpine peak, but the final ascent from the last hut is 990 meters higher than at the Dufourspitze, where there are still 1339 meters to the summit. In addition, the normal route of Mont Blanc with WS is classified as easier on the SAC scale (II) than that of the Dufourspitze, which is indicated with ZS− (III).
Dychtau 5204 m	Elbrus 5642 m	438 m	+14 years	The Dychtau is over 400 m lower than the Elbrus, but has much higher climbing requirements on the normal route: It is rated 4B (IV to V) on the Russian difficulty scale, whereas the Elbrus is quite easy to climb with 2B (II to III) is.
Mount Logan 5959 m	Denali 6190 m	235 m	+12 years	The two North American mountains hardly differ in terms of their technical climbing difficulty; Mount Logan is rated II +, minimally more difficult than Denali with II. The greatest demands here are the extraordinary climatic conditions. The weather on both mountains is determined by storms and extreme cold. In addition, the troposphere is thinner near the poles, so that near peaks there are air conditions as in the Himalayas from 7000 m altitude. All of this has a greater impact on Mount Logan, as its high plateau shape requires a longer stay at high altitudes to climb.
Ojos del Salado 6893 m	Aconcagua 6961 m	069 m	+40 years	The difference in altitude between the two South American mountains is negligible. The Ojos del Salado is, however, much less developed for tourism. Above all, however, the top of the rock demands climbing skills over the last few meters that are not required for the Aconcagua. The difficulty is therefore rated slightly higher with F / PD (I / II) than with the Aconcagua, which is rated F (I).

See also

• List of eight-thousanders

literature

• Romana Bloch: The second will be the first . In: Alpine . No. 9 , 2010, ISSN  0177-3542 , p. 95-111 .

Web links

• The Second Seven Summits on peakbagger.com (English)
• The Second Seven Summits on About.com (English)
• Seven 2nd / Seven 3rd (PDF; 5 kB) on 8000ers.com (English)

Individual evidence

1. ↑ Eberhard Jurgalski: Kammerlander / Stangl: “Seven Second” and “Third” Facts. In: www.8000ers.com. March 30, 2012, accessed July 25, 2016 . 
2. ↑ cf. to the Seven Summits : Eberhard Jurgalski : The (Eleven) Seven Summits. In: 8000ers.com. Retrieved August 22, 2010 . 
3. ^ History of the Quest for the Seven Summits. (No longer available online.) In: abc-of-mountaineering.com. Archived from the original on October 17, 2015 ; accessed on August 28, 2010 (English). Info: The archive link was inserted automatically and has not yet been checked. Please check the original and archive link according to the instructions and then remove this notice.  
4. ↑ Harry Kikstra: Statistics. In: 7summits.com. Retrieved August 22, 2010 . 
5. ↑ ^{a b} Eberhard Jurgalski: Seven Second Summits Major Update. In: 8000ers.com. April 7, 2013, accessed April 26, 2014 . 
6. ↑ ^{a b c d} The Second Seven Summits. In: peakbagger.com. Retrieved December 19, 2010 . 
7. ↑ Joachim Hoelzgen: The last South Sea glaciers are melting away. In: Spiegel Online . August 19, 2010, accessed March 28, 2011 . 
8. ↑ Jean-Jacques Dozy : From the highest peak to the deepest pit. Discovery and development of gold and copper ore deposits of Irian Jaya, Indonesia . In: Bulletin for Applied Geology . Vol. 7, No. 1 , July 2002, p. 67–80 ( article online ( memento of September 28, 2007 in the Internet Archive ) as PDF , approx. 1.4 MB [accessed on April 14, 2011]). From the highest peak to the deepest pit. Discovery and development of the gold and copper ore deposits of Irian Jaya, Indonesia ( Memento of the original from April 2, 2012 in the Internet Archive ) Info: The archive link was automatically inserted and has not yet been checked. Please check the original and archive link according to the instructions and then remove this notice.  
9. ↑ Geoff S Hope et al. (Ed.): The Equatorial Glaciers of New Guinea (Results of the 1971-1973 Australian Universities' Expeditions to Irian Jaya: survey, glaciology, meteorology, biology and palaeoenvironments) . AA Balkema, Rotterdam 1976, Map 2: Carstenz Glacier Area, Irian Jaya. ( papuaweb.org [PDF; accessed April 27, 2014]).
10. ↑ ^{a b c} Second Seven Summits. Summary. May 14, 2010, archived from the original on August 16, 2010 ; accessed on December 19, 2010 (English). 
11. ^ The second (and much cooler) seven summits. May 14, 2010, accessed December 19, 2010 . 
12. ^ Carstensz Pyramid. Retrieved March 15, 2011 . 
13. ↑ ^{a b c} Andreas Lesti: Hans Kammerlander's sharp ridge. In: FAZ.NET . April 3, 2012, Retrieved April 4, 2012 . 
14. ^ Peaks of Australia / Oceania. In: peakware.com. Archived from the original on April 29, 2011 ; accessed on March 30, 2011 (English). 
15. ↑ ^{a b} Mount Kenya, Kenya. In: peakbagger.com. Retrieved April 13, 2011 . 
16. ↑ Mount Kenya Climbing - Sirimon Route. (No longer available online.) Archived from the original on August 21, 2010 ; accessed on August 25, 2010 (English). Info: The archive link was inserted automatically and has not yet been checked. Please check the original and archive link according to the instructions and then remove this notice.  
17. ^ Mount Tyree, Antarctica. In: peakbagger.com. Retrieved April 13, 2011 . 
18. ^ Brian S. Marts: American Antarctic Mountaineering Expedition . In: American Alpine Journal . 1967, p. 251-257 ( article online (PDF) archived at wikiwix.com [accessed August 26, 2010] expedition report).
19. ↑ ^{a b} K2, China / Pakistan. In: peakbagger.com. Retrieved April 13, 2011 . 
20. ↑ David Roberts: K2: The Bitter Legacy . In: National Geographic . September 2004 ( article online on National Geographic website [accessed August 26, 2010]).
21. ↑ ^{a b} Mount Townsend, New South Wales. In: peakbagger.com. Retrieved April 13, 2011 . 
22. ↑ Seven Summits. Retrieved August 26, 2010 . 
23. ^ Sumantri, Indonesia. In: peakbagger.com. Retrieved April 26, 2014 . 
24. ↑ ^{a b} Monte Rosa, Switzerland. In: peakbagger.com. Retrieved April 13, 2011 . 
25. ↑ ^{a b} Dufourspitze (4634 m). In: 4000er.de. Retrieved August 26, 2010 . 
26. ↑ ^{a b} Gora Dykh-Tau, Russia. In: peakbagger.com. Retrieved April 13, 2011 . 
27. ^ Douglas William Freshfield: The Exploration of the Caucasus . Adegi Graphics, 2000, ISBN 978-1-4021-8653-0 , pp. 19 f . ( limited preview in Google Book search).
28. ↑ Willy Blaser: First Swiss Ascent (as of November 22, 2010). (PDF; 22 kB) (No longer available online.) Archived from the original on July 31, 2013 ; Retrieved May 2, 2011 . Info: The archive link was inserted automatically and has not yet been checked. Please check the original and archive link according to the instructions and then remove this notice.  
29. ↑ ^{a b} Mount Logan, Yukon Territory. In: peakbagger.com. Retrieved April 13, 2011 . 
30. ↑ 1925 Climb. (No longer available online.) Archived from the original on January 12, 2011 ; accessed on August 26, 2010 (English). Info: The archive link was inserted automatically and has not yet been checked. Please check the original and archive link according to the instructions and then remove this notice.  
31. ^ Chic Scott: Pushing the limits: the story of Canadian mountaineering . Rocky Mountain Books Ltd, 2000, ISBN 978-0-921102-59-5 , pp. 96 ff . ( limited preview in Google Book search).
32. ↑ ^{a b} Ojos del Salado, Argentina / Chile. In: peakbagger.com. Retrieved April 13, 2011 . 
33. ^ Ojos del Salado. In: summitpost.org. Retrieved August 26, 2010 . 
34. ^ Stewart Green: The Second Seven Summits. In: About.com. Retrieved March 31, 2011 . 
35. ↑ Axel Heuber: Sport climbing: Why many mountaineers need Viagra. In: Welt Online . April 25, 2011, accessed May 2, 2011 . 
36. ↑ Harry Kikstra: Statistics. In: 7summits.com. Retrieved August 22, 2010 . 
37. ↑ Valentina d'Angella: Kammerlander fa il to sul Mount Logan, questa volta è cima vera. May 28, 2012, Retrieved May 29, 2012 (Italian). 
38. ↑ Extreme mountaineering: Stangl conquers the K2. In: Spiegel Online . August 3, 2012, accessed August 5, 2012 . 
39. ↑ Christian Stangl: Sumantri - the second highest of Oceania. (No longer available online.) In: skyrunning.at. Archived from the original on October 11, 2016 ; Retrieved July 25, 2016 . Info: The archive link was inserted automatically and has not yet been checked. Please check the original and archive link according to the instructions and then remove this notice.  
40. ^ The Second Seven Summits
41. ↑ Mount Kenya. In: summitpost.org. August 19, 2010, accessed December 11, 2010 . 
42. ↑ Jeff Rubin: Antarctica . 4th edition. Lonely Planet , 2008, ISBN 978-1-74104-549-9 , pp. 73 .
43. ↑ Christian Stangl : Mt.Tyree - K2 Antarctica. Archived from the original on March 10, 2010 ; accessed on March 31, 2011 . 
44. ↑ ^{a b c} Harry Kikstra: About the 7 summits: History, Statistics, the 7th summit and more: What are the second highest points per continent, are they harder to climb? In: 7summits.com. Retrieved March 31, 2011 . 
45. ^ Damien Gildea: Tyree - A History. (No longer available online.) November 12, 2007, archived from the original on October 7, 2011 ; accessed on December 11, 2010 (English). Info: The archive link was inserted automatically and has not yet been checked. Please check the original and archive link according to the instructions and then remove this notice.  
46. ↑ Günter Seyfferth: The 14 eight-thousanders. March 11, 2011, accessed March 31, 2011 . 
47. ↑ eight-thousander. The 14 highest peaks on earth. Retrieved March 31, 2011 . 
48. ↑ Bo Parfet, Richard Buskin: Die Trying: One Man's Quest to Conquer the Seven Summits . AMACOM Div American Mgmt Assn, 2009, ISBN 978-0-8144-1084-4 , pp. 197 ( limited preview in Google Book search).
49. ^ Carstensz pyramid (4884 m). (PDF; 510 kB) (No longer available online.) P. 5 , archived from the original on January 6, 2012 ; accessed on April 15, 2011 (travel description of a tour operator). Info: The archive link was inserted automatically and has not yet been checked. Please check the original and archive link according to the instructions and then remove this notice.  
50. ^ Christian Stangl : Ngga Pulu 4,862m. Archived from the original on July 30, 2010 ; Retrieved April 15, 2011 . 
51. ↑ Mount Trikora Expedition. Retrieved March 31, 2011 . 
52. ^ Australasia 3 Peaks Glacier Expedition. Retrieved March 31, 2011 . 
53. ↑ Normal route. In: summitpost.org. Retrieved November 7, 2010 . 
54. ^ Carstensz Pyramid (Puncak Jaya) - The history of climbing. Retrieved November 7, 2010 . 
55. ↑ Mont Blanc. In: 4000er.de. Retrieved December 18, 2010 . 
56. ↑ Russian Alpine Grades. In: summitpost.org. Retrieved December 8, 2010 (English, comparison table of the Russian scale). 
57. ^ Dychtau. In: summitpost.org. Retrieved August 26, 2010 . 
58. ^ Standard Route-South Face & Azau Valley. In: summitpost.org. Retrieved August 26, 2010 . 
59. ↑ Logan - King Trench. In: bivouac.com. Retrieved May 3, 2011 . 
60. ↑ West Buttress. In: summitpost.org. Retrieved May 3, 2011 . 
61. ^ Climate of Mount McKinley National Park. In: National Park Service website . Retrieved August 23, 2010 . 
62. ↑ Weather on Mount Logan. (No longer available online.) In: virtualmuseum.ca. Canadian Heritage Information Network, archived from the original on November 19, 2011 ; accessed on March 28, 2011 (English). Info: The archive link was inserted automatically and has not yet been checked. Please check the original and archive link according to the instructions and then remove this notice.  
63. ↑ Mount Logan (5,959 m). Retrieved March 28, 2011 . 
64. ^ John Biggar: The Andes: A Guide for Climbers . 3. Edition. Andes, 2005, ISBN 978-0-9536087-2-0 , pp. 279 ( limited preview in Google Book search).

 Map with all coordinates: OSM | WikiMap

This version was added to the selection of informative lists and portals on May 12, 2011 .