Ushba
| Ushba | ||
|---|---|---|
 Ushba double summit (south view) |
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| height | 4737 m | |
| location | Mingrelia and Upper Svaneti ( Georgia ) | |
| Mountains | Greater Caucasus | |
| Coordinates | 43 ° 7 '34 " N , 42 ° 39' 11" E | |
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| First ascent | July 26, 1903 by Adolf Schulze, R. Helbling, F. Reichert, Anton Weber and Oscar Schuster | |
Ushba ( Georgian უშბა ; usch "terrible", ba "mountain") is a double peak in the main ridge of the Greater Caucasus in Georgia . The south summit is 4737 m high and the north summit is 4698 m high.
The north summit was first climbed by the English in 1888, the south summit for the first time on July 26, 1903 by Adolf Schulze , Robert Helbling , Fritz Reichert, Albert Weber and Oscar Schuster . Previously there were about 20 failed attempts. The south summit was considered the most difficult mountain in the world at that time. After the first successful ascent of the southern summit, Prince Dadeschkeliani of Svaneti formally gave the Ushba to the Austrian mountaineer Cenzi von Ficker , who had previously participated in Schulze's first, unsuccessful attempt. Schulze had crashed shortly before the summit and was seriously injured. Von Ficker had then brought him safely to the high camp.
The 2000 m high west face was first climbed by Ludwig Vörg , one of the later first climbers of the Eiger north face .
There is also a Uschbist club in London .
Web links
- Uschba on Peakbagger.com (English)
Individual evidence
- ↑ Stefan Meineke: A life full of adventure. Adolf Schulze - a forgotten pioneer of modern alpinism. In: Alpine Club Yearbook. Vol. 125, 2001, pp. 96-109, here p. 104.
- ↑ Karl Lukan : Mountains, the great adventure (= Ravensburger paperbacks. Vol. 447, knowledge for everyone ). Slightly abridged license edition. Otto Maier Verlag, Ravensburg 1979, ISBN 3-473-39447-5 , p. 126.