Sausage stand

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Wiener sausage stand in the 1st district

The (Viennese) sausage stand is the traditional Austrian variant of the snack stand : a free-standing sales stand in which mainly small meat dishes are offered for quick consumption.

History and function

This institution was founded during the Austro-Hungarian monarchy to secure an income for war invalids. Originally they were mobile stalls or cookshops ; Only in the 1960s were fixed stands allowed in Vienna. Sausage stands are now an integral part of Austrian metropolitan culture and have also left their mark on art, for example in the Viennese genre song Der Würstelmann bei Schottentor (1956) or in Hans Carl Artmann's book Im Schatten der Burenwurst.

Some sausage stands, especially in downtown Vienna and on the Wiener Gürtel , are open late into the night and are therefore one of the few options to come to a warm meal at this time.

Night sausage stand

In some cities there are only concessions for a night sausage stand at certain places. This may only be operated from the evening until the early hours of the morning and must be removed from the public traffic area during the daytime. These are mobile stands that are parked on the outskirts or in a nearby garage during the day.

range

Sausage stand in front of the Albertina in Vienna

The traditional offer includes Burenwurst , Käsekrainer , Frankfurter (known abroad as "Wiener"), Bosna , Waldviertler , Debreziner and Leberkäse - each with sweet Kremser mustard or spicy tarragon mustard as well as a piece of bread or a roll ; as a side dish are pickled vegetables such as peppers (mild or hot), salt or pickles and any Silberzwieberl for election. Also part of horseradish for sausage culture, as in German climes horseradish is known and traditionally freshly grated with is offered for sausage. Also Fork Roller (called in the variant with hot pepper sauce "Devil Roller") or Mannerschnitten mostly belong to the assortment. As for drinks, there is the obligatory beer or the donation ; In the case of non-alcoholic drinks, iced tea and cola have now replaced the classics Keli and Schartner Bombe - only the Almdudler is still available.

Ketchup and mayonnaise are more recent as seasonings. Nowadays, hot dogs , pizza slices or schnitzel rolls often complement the offer, although such locations usually do without the title sausage stand . The so-called Zack Zack is sold in Vorarlberg . It is a pork nut or pork loin with onion sauce in a roll.

particularities

Oldest and most distant Viennese sausage stand

The allegedly oldest Viennese stand of this kind, the LEO sausage stand , has been in existence since 1928. It originated in 1918, when the eponymous Leopold Mlynek sen. self-employed with a night license (see night sausage stand above). He opened his stand in front of today's pharmacy, Eye of God. At around 4 a.m. he had to move his mobile sales stand into the inner courtyard of Nussdorfer Straße 55. Ten years later, Mlynek Sr. open his first permanent sausage stand. In 1987 the company moved to its current location in front of Cafe Blaustern (formerly Cafe Grillparzer). Over the years, three new buildings followed, the last one, the fourth one, has been in existence since 1997. The third generation of the sausage stand, which has featured in reports in print media and television, is run by Vera Tondl, the founder's granddaughter. The family business, now a limited liability company , has comprised up to five companies in different industries at the same time since it was founded.

Probably the most distant from Vienna sausage stand, Erich's würstelstand, is located in the Chinatown of Singapore , which is also subject to the reporting and over again. According to Erich Sollbock, who grew up in Gresten in Lower Austria , it is “ The Last Sausage Kiosk before the Equator ” (“The last sausage stand [137 km north] before the Equator ”).

Try alternative Viennese sausage stands

At the beginning of 2010, three homeless people in the VinziBett emergency shelter (see Wolfgang Pucher ) had the idea to open the neglected stand with the label "Döner Kebab Würstelhütte" at the traffic junction at Johann-Nepomuk-Berger-Platz in the 16th district - right across from the Ottakringer Brewery  - to take over. On March 20, 2010, the team, which now consisted of five people, was able to open the Vinzi sausage stand with a "trust-based loan of 12,000 euros from the Vinzi budget" as a classic Viennese sausage stand. They were able to obtain their products at reduced prices from old Viennese companies (some of which are still family-owned) in the area around the 16th and 17th districts ( Ottakring and Hernals ). At first, business at the stand was also good. In April 2011, "the former homeless showcase project" was taken over by a catering company: "It just wasn't profitable," said the chairwoman of VinziBett, Hedi Klima, in explaining the abandonment of the project. According to the free daily newspaper heute , the three founders should have a place of residence again.

In May 2012 Thomas Danecek, an ex- opera singer and restaurateur , opened the first luxury sausage stand under the name U Box on Wiener Schwedenplatz . On offer are “  saucisse au fromage avec caviar  ” ( cheese krainer with caviar ) and “ Moet Chandon  ” ( champagne ) “to wash down”  . The operator justifies u. a. this with

"We don't leave the fast food to the kebab stands!"

and traces the idea back to his regular guest John Malkovich :

"When he performed in Vienna, he was often a guest at one of my booths, [and] always ordered caviar."

Specifics

At "original" Viennese sausage stands, Viennese abuse is an inevitable part of the conversation. In addition, there is a special Viennese jargon that is almost impossible for a stranger to learn. An often quoted but misleading legend is the order of a "Eitrigen mit an Schoafn, an Bugl und ana Hüsn zua" ("Eitrige" = cheese krainer; "Schoafa" = hot mustard ; "Bugl" = bread end piece , better known as "Scherzerl"); "Hüsn" = bottle of beer; optionally also "a 16-sheet metal" as a can ("sheet metal") Ottakringer beer ). Said order - rumored in various versions - is understood; however, the speaker reveals himself to be a non-native. The appropriate terminology is more complex, especially since it also varies by district .

“But the sausage stand is widely popular, as one speaks of a good friend who is above reproach. There is also something else that counts here for the locals: if you can order at the sausage stand without an accent and understand the gossip of the taxi driver, you've arrived in town. The cult is a relatively young one, the entry into popular culture took place from the 80s, reports in films and magazines illustrated the social elasticity and permeability, a social filling station for the city strollers. The sausage stand became a Viennese brand like the Heurige or the coffee house. "

- Gregor Schuberth : 2004/2012

In February 2012, a “real” sausage stand found its way to the Vienna Opera Ball . This was built in the opera “in the old Viennese style”.

Sausage stand in art and culture

The institution of (Viennese) sausage stands is repeatedly represented in art and culture (selection):

  • "At Aunt Jolesch's , Torberg used to eat an apple at the sausage stand at Schottentor at night, while his weird companion, Dr. Sperber some Buren sausages consumed. "(Gregor Schuberth, 2004)
  • 1995: At the sausage stand. Edition from the ORF documentary series Everyday History by Elizabeth T. Spira .
  • 2004: sausage stand. A ten-minute short film by Nicolas Neuhold about two burglars who break into a sausage stand after a successful break-in.
  • 2010: It doesn't matter. “A sausage stand in Vienna. Where, if not here, do natives and tourists, geniuses and madmen, opera goers and women murderers, suburban teenagers and old grumblers meet? ”Play (and quote) by Franz Wittenbrink in Josefstadt , 2010.

literature

  • Elisabeth Hölzl (Ed.): Under the spell of the Burenwurst. The sausage stand as will and idea. Christian Brandstätter, Vienna 2001, ISBN 3-85498-105-8 .
  • Peter Payer : The Wiener Würstelstand - local supplier and image producer. In: Elisabeth Limbeck-Lilienau, Roswitha Muttenthaler, Gabriele Zuna-Kratky (eds.): A matter of taste. What makes eating a pleasure. Vienna 2008, pp. 74–81, ISBN 3-902183-16-0 .
  • Gregor Schuberth: About the sausage stand. In: Die Presse , Supplement Spectrum, June 29, 2012.
  • Stefan Oláh, Sebastian Hackenschmidt: Ninety-five Viennese sausage stands: The Hot 95 , 2013, ISBN 3-7025-0697-7 .

Web links

Commons : Sausage stands in Austria  - collection of images, videos and audio files
Wiktionary: Würstelstand  - explanations of meanings, word origins, synonyms, translations

Individual evidence

  1. ↑ a b Peter Payer: The taste of the city. The Wiener Würstelstand - local supplier and image producer. (PDF; 307 kB), Vienna 2008.
  2. ↑ Note: The Gürtel is the third main artery in a ring segment around the city center , along with the Vienna Ringstrasse and the so-called Zweierlinie (also freight road). Especially the western belt was u. a. bad repute because of the "belt line" ( street prostitution ) and the red light crime taking place (see red light district ). This has been counteracted by urban renewal since the 1990s , see the present section in the article on the Vienna Belt . See also: Der Gürtel and Wiener Blut ( Memento of the original from March 11, 2012 in the Internet Archive ) Info: The archive link was automatically inserted and not yet checked. Please check the original and archive link according to the instructions and then remove this notice. on wien-vienna.at ( undated ); Retrieved August 29, 2012. @1@ 2Template: Webachiv / IABot / www.wien-vienna.at
  3. ↑ Bianca Blei: sausage stand Leo: "The shame is over today". In: derStandard.at , October 21, 2010. Retrieved on August 29, 2012.
  4. ↑ Press article ( Memento of the original from September 4, 2012 in the Internet Archive ) Info: The archive link was inserted automatically and has not yet been checked. Please check the original and archive link according to the instructions and then remove this notice. and gallery ( memento of the original from September 2, 2012 in the Internet Archive ) Info: The archive link was inserted automatically and has not yet been checked. Please check the original and archive link according to the instructions and then remove this notice. (with pictures from TV recordings) on the website of the LEO sausage stand. Retrieved August 29, 2012.  @1@ 2Template: Webachiv / IABot / www.wuerstelstandleo.at @1@ 2Template: Webachiv / IABot / www.wuerstelstandleo.at
  5. ↑ Imprint and contact ( memento of the original dated September 2, 2012 in the Internet Archive ) Info: The archive link was inserted automatically and has not yet been checked. Please check the original and archive link according to the instructions and then remove this notice. on the website of the sausage stand LEO. Retrieved August 29, 2012.  @1@ 2Template: Webachiv / IABot / www.wuerstelstandleo.at
  6. ↑ Timetable on the website of the LEO sausage stand. Retrieved August 25, 2015.
  7. ^ Website of Erich's Wuerstelstand, Chinatown, Singapore. Retrieved August 29, 2012.
  8. ↑ Austrian National TV station ORF broadcasted erichs Wuerstelstand before Singapore F1 Night Race. ORF report as a YouTube video with references to other TV reports.
  9. ↑ In the melting pot between Bosna and spring roll. In: Nachrichten.at , January 17, 2009. Retrieved on August 29, 2012.
  10. ↑ Mark Sauer: Studying in Singapore: Never stand still. ("Erich's" Wuerstelstand "in Chinatown has meanwhile achieved cult status.") Spiegel Online , photo gallery, picture 5, November 25, 2011; Retrieved August 29, 2012.
  11. ↑ An Austrian in Chinatown. Erich Sollbock in an audio interview, March 2006, on the website of the National University of Singapore .
  12. ^ At the sausage stand in Singapore. In: dieweltreisenden, August 20, 2007. Accessed August 29, 2012.
  13. ↑ Andreas Wetz: "Vinzi-Würstel": New start at the Ottakringer Würstelstand. In: Die Presse , print edition March 15, 2010. Accessed August 29, 2012.
  14. ↑ Roland Gratzer: Debreziner for fellow men. In: FM4 . ORF .at, March 22, 2010. Retrieved on August 29, 2012.
  15. ↑ Sorry! Homeless people are giving up their own sausage stand. The Vinzi sausage stand on Johann-Nepomuk-Berger-Platz has new owners. ( Memento from March 4, 2016 in the Internet Archive ) In: Heute.at , April 14, 2011.
  16. ↑ Claus Kramsl: Caviar instead of purulent. Vienna's first luxury sausage stand. ( Memento from September 24, 2015 in the Internet Archive ) In: Heute.at, April 26, 2012.
  17. ↑ Christoph Winder: The Purulent. The good behavior at the sausage stand. Winder's dictionary for the present in: Der Standard , July 11, 2006. Retrieved on August 29, 2012. (Note: Cf. also the reader's reactions with the criticism that this is more a tourist legend than such an order is really done by locals.)
  18. ↑ Robert Sedlaczek : The 16 mm sheet makes a career. Sedlaczek on Wednesday . In: Wiener Zeitung , March 13, 2007; Retrieved August 29, 2012.
  19. ↑ Alois Maria Simcha alias Dr. Seicherl: Hot and greasy (in the explanations: the Wiener Würstelstand and its special expressions). In: Evolver. Die Netzzeitung, March 25, 2010; Retrieved August 29, 2012.
  20. ^ A b c Gregor Schuberth: To the state of the sausage. Online on the Schuberth and Schuberth website , 2004. Accessed August 29, 2012.
  21. ↑ Opera ball with Christensen and sausage stand. In: Die Presse , January 31, 2012. Accessed August 29, 2012.
  22. ↑ Everyday history. ( Memento of the original from July 25, 2012 in the Internet Archive ) Info: The archive link was automatically inserted and not yet checked. Please check the original and archive link according to the instructions and then remove this notice. Customer service documentary series website. ORF .at. Content of the program on program. ARD .at . Retrieved August 29, 2012.  @1@ 2Template: Webachiv / IABot / kundendienst.orf.at
  23. ↑ Sausage stand. Websites of the film by Nicolas Neuhold (script / director) and Ulrich Wolkenstein (producer). Retrieved on August 29, 2012.
    Mario Pizzinini alias “Prof. Wurst “: Würstelstand - A short film by Nicolas Neuhold. In: Wurstakademie. Sausage knowledge for everyone, December 31, 2008.     Accessed August 29, 2012.
  24. ↑ Eh don't care , ( Memento of the original from August 31, 2014 in the Internet Archive ) Info: The archive link was automatically inserted and not yet checked. Please check the original and archive link according to the instructions and then remove this notice. Premiere November 4, 2010. On the website of the Theater in der Josefstadt . Retrieved August 29, 2012.  @1@ 2Template: Webachiv / IABot / www.josefstadt.org
  25. ↑ Isabella Pohl: Much abuse at the sausage stand. Great fun in Josefstadt: Franz Wittenbrink's "Eh don't care". In: Der Standard , print edition 6./7. November 2010. Retrieved August 29, 2012.