Zsigmondyspitze
| Zsigmondyspitze | ||
|---|---|---|
 seen from the south |
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| height | 3089 m above sea level A. | |
| location | Tyrol , Austria | |
| Mountains | Zillertal Alps | |
| Dominance | 1.9 km → Ochsner | |
| Notch height | 241 m ↓ Southern Mörchnerscharte | |
| Coordinates | 47 ° 3 '2 " N , 11 ° 50' 16" E | |
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| rock | Eye and Flaser gneiss, granite gneiss | |
| First ascent | July 24, 1879 by Emil and Otto Zsigmondy | |
| Normal way | South ridge and southwest face ( II ) | |
The Zsigmondyspitze is 3089 m above sea level. A. high mountain in the Zillertal Alps in the Austrian state of Tyrol . It is considered the most famous climbing mountain in the Zillertal Alps.
The mountain, previously called Feldkopf , was given its name in 1885 in honor of the mountaineer Emil Zsigmondy , who had a fatal accident on the Meije in the French Dauphiné Alps . The brothers Emil and Otto Zsigmondy were the first to climb the mountain in 1879, which, according to literature, was long considered "invincible". Their way led through a channel in the west wall , which is hardly used today because of the high risk of falling rocks. In alpine climbers especially the routes on today are normal route , or the South West to popular climbs, as well as the box top edge and the Ostnordostgrat .
Location and surroundings
The Zsigmondyspitze is about six kilometers as the crow flies south-southeast of the Mayrhofen district of Ginzling . Due to its horn-like appearance and its steeply sloping north-east walls, up to 650 meters in altitude down to the Floitengrund , the mountain has a great geographical dominance . Adjacent peaks are in the southeast, separated by the Feldscharte , the jagged ridge of the Rosskopf with heights of up to 3,028 meters. To the southwest below lies the Schwarzsee and, separated by the Melkerscharte , the 2,899 meter high Plattenkopf . To the north, in the course of the approximately one kilometer long northwest ridge , separated by the Sammerscharte (2,690 m), lies the 2,699 meter high Tiefenkarspitze .
Bases and easiest route
The starting point for an ascent of the Zsigmondyspitze from the south, on today's normal route, the easiest climb, is the Berliner Hut at an altitude of 2042 meters. From the hut, the path first leads northeast towards Schwarzsee (2,472 m), Melkerscharte , then northeast over a snow field inclined up to 30 ° up to the Feldscharte at 2909 meters . Then it goes on over the southeast ridge of the Zsigmondyspitze, through the southeast face (double crossing), back on the ridge and over the so-called Floitentritt through gutters to the summit. According to literature, the difficulty of this easiest route is UIAA grade II . According to literature, the walking time from the Berliner Hut is about 3½ hours. A variant of this route is the ascent of the southeast face instead of the crossings, which increases the difficulty only slightly to UIAA grade III-. The Steinbock inn (1380 m), southeast above Ginzling , serves as a base for an ascent to the Feldscharte from the Floitengrund via the Sonntagsfeld . The ascent via this route takes considerably longer, 5–6 hours depending on the conditions.
Ascent history
The first ascent of the mountain by the Zsigmondy brothers took place on July 24, 1879 via the west face. The starting point was the Maxhütte hunting lodge in the Gunggl, from where they left at 4 a.m. and at around 8 a.m. they were at the head of the valley. From there it took another 9¾ hours to climb the mountain. During the descent they were forced to bivouac in the rock.
In 1882 A. Katzer and Stefan Kirchler opened up today's normal route from the Berliner Hütte.
The initial ascent from the Floite succeeded Hans Fiechtl and Hans Hotter in 1910.
Literature and map
- Heinrich and Walter Klier : Alpine Club Guide Zillertal Alps . 11th revised edition. Bergverlag Rother, Munich 1996, ISBN 3-7633-1269-2 .
- E. Zsigmondy . In: Österreichischer Alpenclub (Ed.): Österreichische Alpenzeitung . Vienna 1886.
- Alpine club map 1: 25,000, sheet 35/2, Zillertal Alps center
Individual evidence
- Jump up to: Walter Klier: Alpenvereinsführer Zillertaler Alpen , Munich 2013, RZ 1627.
- ↑ Federal Office for Metrology and Surveying Austria: Zsigmondyspitze on the Austrian Map online (Austrian map 1: 50,000) .
- ↑ For example, Third Land Survey 1864/1887, data status 1870/1873, scale 1: 25,000, layer in historical maps of Tyrol .
- ^ Heinrich and Walter Klier: Alpenvereinsführer Zillertal Alps , Munich 1996, p. 318, margin no. 1638 ff.
- ^ A b Leon Treptow: The Berlin huts in the Zillertal . Publishing house of the Berlin section of the D. u. Oe. Alpenvereins, Berlin 1922 (fifth increased edition, revised by L. Grün), p. 39
- ^ Leon Treptow: The Berlin huts in the Zillertal . Publishing house of the Berlin section of the D. u. Oe. Alpenvereins, Berlin 1922 (fifth increased edition, revised by L. Grün), p. 40
