Bespoke tailoring and Unterseeboot 324: Difference between pages

Content deleted Content added

VisualWikitext

Inline

Revision as of 22:36, 10 October 2008

Redirect to:

German submarine U-324

@@ Line 1: / Line 1: @@
+#REDIRECT [[German submarine U-324]]
-{{wiktionary|Bespoke}}
-'''''Bespoke''''' is usually a [[British English]] term for [[tailor]]ed clothing (including coats, suits, and shirts) made at a customer's request and exactly to the customer's specification. In [[American English]], it is a  synonym for '''''custom made'''''. Bespoke clothing is created without use of a pre-existing pattern, differentiating it from [[made to measure]], which alters a standard-sized pattern to fit the customer.<ref name="Norton">{{cite web|title=Savile Row Never Goes Out of Style|url=http://www.businessweek.com/globalbiz/content/oct2006/gb20061030_512497.htm| work=BusinessWeek| last=Norton| first=Kate| date=[[2006-10-31]]| accessdate=2007-05-22}}</ref>
-Some argue, such as the traditional [[Savile Row]] tailors represented by the [[Savile Row Bespoke Association]], that the term bespoke further implies that the garment is at least substantially handmade, while a ruling by the British [[Advertising Standards Authority]] has ruled it is a fair practice to use the term ''bespoke'' for products which do not fully incorporate such traditional construction methods.<ref name="Cockroft"/>
-The word ''bespoke'' itself is derived from an older definition of the word ''bespeak'', in the sense of "arranging for something to be done, engaging a person to do a job, or ordering goods."<ref name="Quinion">{{cite web |url=http://www.worldwidewords.org/qa/qa-bes4.htm |title= Bespoke|accessdate=2008-10-09 |first=Michael |last=Quinion |date= 2008-09-13| work=World Wide Words}}</ref> Today, it is also frequently used in fields varying widely from technical components specifically developed for a certain application (''e.g.'' [[bespoke software]]); to the car industry, when customers get a chance to have an automobile made to their specification; and ranging now even to cake decorating.
-==Savile Row Bespoke==
-In the original clothing field, the term "bespoke" is understood to have originated in [[Savile Row]] when cloth for a suit was said to be spoken for by individual customers<ref name="Norton"/>. The tailors of Savile Row have organized themselves in an association, SavileRowBespoke<ref>{{cite web|url=http://www.savilerowbespoke.com/Home/index.php|title=SavileRowbespoke|accessdate=2008-10-10}}</ref>which kas tried to set some precise standards for a bespoke garment.
-These standards<ref>{{cite web|url=http://www.savilerowbespoke.com/About_Us/Craftsmanship/|title=Craftsmanship|accessdate=2008-10-10}}</ref> particularly stress
-* Hand work,  such as "individually cut a paper pattern" or "create a two-piece suit almost completely by hand"
-* Personal service, such as "offer a choice of a least 2000 fabrics" or "retain full customer records and order details"
-* Job qualification through training to provide expertise to customers
-The association has also specified 21 points<ref>{{cite web|url=http://www.savilerowbespoke.com/About_Us/Craftsmanship/Our_standards/Garment_specifications//|title=Garment specifications|accessdate=2008-10-10}}</ref> which should be respected in a bespoke suit, such as "sufficient inlays to allow 3 inches adjustment to the main body seams" for the jacket or "hand stitched seat seam" for the trousers.
-==Advertising Standards Authority ruling==
-In June 2008, a ruling by the British [[Advertising Standards Authority (United Kingdom)|Advertising Standards Authority]] (ASA), the advertising regulator, won by law firm [[Davenport Lyons]] for the tailors Sartoriani, "dismissed a complaint that labelling clothes which have been cut from a template as bespoke is misleading".<ref name="Cockroft">{{cite web | url=http://www.telegraph.co.uk/news/2149810/Savile-Row-tailors-lose-fight-to-preserve-the-term-bespoke.html |first=Lucy| last=Cockroft| title=Savile Row tailors lose fight to preserve the term bespoke|work = The Telegraph |date=2008-06-19 |accessdate=2008-10-10}}</ref>
-The Advertising Standards Authority is the independent body set up by the advertising industry to police the rules laid down in the advertising codes<ref>{{cite web |url=http://www.asa.org.uk/asa/about/|title=  About the Advertising Standards Authority |accessdate=2008-10-10 }}</ref>. It "regulates the content of advertisements, sales promotions and direct marketing in the UK"<ref name="about ASA">{{cite web |url=http://www.asa.org.uk/asa/about/short_guide/|title=  A short guide to what we do |accessdate=2008-10-10 }}</ref> by investigating "complaints made about ads, sales promotions or direct marketing"<ref name ="about ASA"/> and rules whether such advertising complies with its "advertising standards codes"<ref name ="about ASA"/>on issues such as "substantiation"<ref>{{cite web |url=http://www.asa.org.uk/asa/codes/cap_code/ShowCode.htm?clause_id=1489|title=   The CAP Code: substantiation rule |accessdate=2008-10-10 }}</ref> or "inaccuracy"<ref>{{cite web |url=http://www.asa.org.uk/asa/codes/cap_code/ShowCode.htm?clause_id=1502|title=   The CAP Code: truthfulness rule |accessdate=2008-10-10 }}</ref>.
-Sartoriani had run an ad for a "Bespoke Suit Uniquely made according to your personal measurements & specification". The complainant objected that the description "bespoke suit" was misleading because bespoke suits were made entirely by hand. He believed the advertised suits were machine-cut abroad to a standard pattern after initial measurements were taken and adjusted at the end of the process.<ref name="ASA ruling"/>
-The ruling of the ASA<ref name="ASA ruling">{{cite web |url= http://www.asa.org.uk/asa/adjudications/Public/TF_ADJ_44555.htm|title= Sartoriani London |accessdate=2008-10-09|work=ASA Adjudications|date=2008-06-18}}</ref> is based on the [[Oxford English Dictionary]] definition of ''bespoke'' as "made to order". However, the dictionary entry only serves to differentiate between bespoke and ready-to-wear, and clarifies nothing about the difference between bespoke and made-to-measure. In view of this difficulty, the ruling refers to the distinction "traditionally made" between bespoke and made-to-measure: "a made-to-measure suit would be cut, usually by machine, from an existing pattern, and adjusted according to the customer's measurements.  A bespoke suit would be fully hand-made and the pattern cut from scratch, with an intermediary baste stage which involved a first fitting so that adjustments could be made to a half-made suit". Despite this acknowledgement of the traditional use of the words, it notes that a confusion is often created, as "some tailors and high-end fashion designers describ[e] their made-to-measure suits as bespoke". The ruling ultimately concludes that the "majority of people, however, would not expect [a bespoke] suit to be fully hand-made with the pattern cut from scratch".
-This conclusion generated a certain emotion. The respected tailor Richard Anderson wrote an article in the Telegraph to explain that "the ASA has got the ruling wrong"<ref>{{cite web |url=http://www.telegraph.co.uk/news/uknews/2151888/Savile-Row-tailor-Richard-Anderson-bespoke-must-mean-bespoke.html |title= Savile Row tailor Richard Anderson: bespoke must mean bespoke|accessdate=2008-10-10 |first=Richard|last=Anderson |date= 2008-06-18| work=The Telegraph}}</ref> Some analysts, like the etymologyst [[Michael Quinion]], considered this ruling positive. For him, "the historic term of art ha[s] moved on and it [is] legitimate for a tailor offering clothes cut and sewn by machine to refer to them as bespoke, provided that they [are] made to the customer’s measurements"<ref name ="Quinion"/>. Nevertheless, some journalists have considered this linguistic approach unrealistic: "despite the ASA ruling, which has given a free hand to the more liberal use of the [bespoke] word, bespoke tailoring has traditionally, if unofficially, meant something more than the dictionary definition allows", wrote Josh Sim <ref>{{cite web |url=http://www.ft.com/cms/s/0/0ea5cbf6-4eed-11dd-ba7c-000077b07658.html |title= The b-word: not cut and dried|accessdate=2008-10-10 |first=Josh|last=Sim |date= 2008-07-12| work=Financial Times}}</ref>.Some others, as the journalist Simon Crompton, consider that the ASA "took a rather ignorant decision to declare that there is no difference between bespoke and made-to-measure. It is a loss to menswear and to language" <ref>{{cite web |url=http://www.mensflair.com/news/a-loss-to-sartorial-language.php |title= A loss to (sartorial)language|accessdate=2008-10-10 |first=Simon|last=Crompton |date= 2008-07-01| work=Men'sFlair}}</ref>.
-==Other uses==
-The term can also refer to:
-* [[furniture]];
-* elements of [[interior design]] (''e.g.'' [[closet]]s);
-* [[computer software]], in which it refers to software designed and written for a single company and/or task;
-* [[telecommunications]] refers to non-standard solution tailored for specific customer solution;
-* customisation of a particular product or service (''e.g.'' envelopes);
-* [[structured finance]] products (''e.g.'' [[collateralised debt obligation]]s);
-* custom specifications in ordering a luxury automobile such as a [[Ferrari|Ferrari]], [[Porsche|Porsche]], [[Rolls-Royce (car)|Rolls-Royce]] or a [[Bentley State Limousine|Bentley]];
-* firearms, particularly luxury sporting arms such as [[shotgun|shotguns]] and [[rifle|rifles]], which may include custom appointments (stocks made of rare woods, custom engraving, case colouring or other metalwork) and custom fitting;
-* [[shoemaking]], which is generally provided by small manufacturers, working by hand;
-* and [[jewellery]].
-==References==
-{{Reflist}}
-[[Category:Business terms]]
-[[Category:Sizes in clothing]]
-[[sv:Bespoke]]