Step over and under
As crossing or gutter is known in the Tailoring the multi length at edges and sleeve slots, in the Skinning the overhead front part of a jacket or a jacket (for women's clothing, the right front part).
Since if the body size is strictly adhered to when cutting a shell that is too tight, the cutter adds so-called allowances in the width to make movement possible. It is similar with button fastenings, here too something is added, depending on the fashion and model at least 1.5 cm. This extra length can be placed on top of each other; the top piece, into which one or more buttonholes are worked, is called the overlap, while the bottom piece on which the button is sewn is called the underlap. The same applies to sleeve slits, but also to back or side slits, even if they are not buttoned.
In the fur industry, the overlay of a coat etc. is the overlapping front part, which prevents the item of clothing worn underneath from looking out. In the event of insufficient crossover, the fur opens when walking. The opposite side is called the underlap.
Individual evidence
- ↑ Alfons Hofer: Textile and Model Lexicon . 7th edition, Volume 2, Deutscher Fachverlag, Frankfurt am Main 1997, keywords “Überertritt”, “Untertritt”. ISBN 3-87150-518-8 .
- ↑ Alexander Tuma: Pelz-Lexikon. Fur and Rough Goods, Volume XXI . Alexander Tuma, Vienna 1951, p. 219, keyword “transfer” .