Surf wave
As breakers all irregular shapes of water mirror deflections understood that occur as a result of interactions of the sea water with the atmosphere and with the seabed near the coast.
While the energy required to generate the water waves is transferred by the wind over hundreds of kilometers to the water surface in the open sea, this energy is broken down during the surf process, depending on the coastal formation, over a short distance. The narrower the surf zone, the more intensive the energy expenditure, possibly with devastating deformation forces . In the case of periodic waves, the boundary condition of a sloping floor causes a continuous deformation of the wave until it finally breaks and then creates the wave run-up . The breaking of waves is the most striking phenomenon in surf waves. The breaking process itself is characterized by the kinematics of the orbital movement of the wave, which is continuously deforming up to the breaking point. Both the ratio of the current orbital velocity to the current wave advance speed and the ratio of the orbital acceleration to the acceleration due to gravity are important. Waves that burn out after breaking on a gently sloping beach (also called surge) are influenced by the unsteady return current (also called suction). Sand (but also material of coarser grain fractions ) can be transported with the surge , which leads to a beach displacement . The suction takes the fine material with it again.
Individual evidence
- ↑ a b The breaking of the swell in the surf zone. Geomorphology> Coastal Morphology> Littoral Processes> Wave Dynamics. In: PG-Net - The learning portal for an introduction to physical geography. Free University of Berlin, accessed on December 13, 2013 : “In the form of the so-called surge, they run up the rising beach and leave a flushing line there. Part of the water seeps away from a sandy beach. The rest runs off again as backflow or suction. "