Aggravate (silk)
Difficult , Complain or charging are operations of natural silk -Strang- or piece of decoration.
When it is more difficult, the mass and weight loss that occurred due to the deboning of the silk thread is filled up with metal salts ( tin chloride , tin phosphate , sodium phosphate ) and a subsequent water glass bath as well as with inorganic tanning agents . In the Vegetal-aggravating the aggravation done using vegetable tanning agents that improve although the volume and handle, but do not increase the weight.
In order to improve the weight as well as the improvement in the handle achieved by tanning, the aggravation is sometimes associated with metal salts without water glass. A difficulty below par up to 10–60% above par will hardly result in a loss of quality, but the over-par discomfort (up to 300%), which goes far beyond the original weight, does. The process is energy-intensive and pollutes the wastewater.
The Charge Mixte is a combination of tanning agents, which only improve the volume and the handle, but not the weight, and of metal salts to make natural silk without water glass more difficult.
Individual evidence
- ↑ a b c d Alfons Hofer: Textile and fashion dictionary . 7th edition, Volume 1, Deutscher Fachverlag, Frankfurt am Main 1997, keywords "Charge Mixte", "Difficulty", "Vegetal Difficulty". ISBN 3-87150-518-8 .