Mongo (climbing route)
Mongo is a climbing route in Austria that has been rated with difficulty level 9a (UIAA XI) . At the time of the first ascent in 2004, it was one of the most difficult routes in the world. The route is located in the Schleierwasserfall climbing area in the municipality of Going am Wilden Kaiser .
The route, which runs in holey yellow limestone , is approx. 25 meters long and overhangs up to 40 degrees. The key point is on the first six meters, followed by a mediocre rest point, which is followed by a heavy dynamic train of around 8b + (UIAA X +). The last 12 meters are large-grip climbing in grade 7c (UIAA IX).
Already in 1989 sided Gerhard Hörhager in climbing area Schleierwasserfall the central and strukturloseste line of the main sector with bolts . After 15 years and several unsuccessful attempts by well-known climbers (including Gerhard Hörhager, Alexander Huber , Klemens Loskot ), in October 2004 the then 20-year-old Tyrolean Markus Bendler managed to master the route without falling. Almost four years after the first ascent, Helmut "Heli" Kotter was able to repeat the route, which Bendler had attempted for six months before successfully climbing it, on March 6, 2008.
Individual evidence
- ↑ climbing.de: Markus Bendler commits "Mongo" (9a) at the Schleier waterfall , December 1st, 2004
- ↑ bergstieg.com: Mongo (9a) repeated , April 7, 2008
Coordinates: 47 ° 33 ' N , 12 ° 22' E