Rock hook
A rock hook is a metal shaft anchored in the climbing rock with an eyelet into which a snap hook can be hung. When climbing, it serves as a fixed anchor point for the construction of the stand or intermediate securing . In technical climbing , mountaineers also use it as an aid to locomotion.
species
Normal hook
Normal hooks are rock hooks that are knocked into cracks in the rock with a hammer (hence also "knocked hooks"). Today they no longer have the same meaning as in the early days of alpinism, as they have been largely replaced by bolts. Different types are used depending on the size of the crack, e.g. B. Fiechtlhaken (after Hans Fiechtl ), universal hooks or profile hooks (large profile hooks are called "bong"). Their resilience depends on the anchoring quality in the respective crack and their aging due to corrosion.
Fiechtlhaken
Profile hook V-shape
Bolts
Bolts are the most commonly used hooks today. To attach them, a hole with a diameter of 8 to 12 mm is drilled into the rock using a cordless drill or a hand-held tool and the hook is inserted. The connection with the rock is made in two ways.
- Expansion anchor or expansion anchors are inserted into the borehole and spread by tightening the nut. They should be made of stainless steel to avoid corrosion and brittle fractures.
- Adhesive hooks - technically correct they are to be called composite anchor hooks - are also anchored in a drill hole. This anchoring is done using a mortar. The surface of the anchor and the borehole must have sufficient roughness , since the holding force is created by a positive fit with the composite mortar and these surfaces. The most famous adhesive hook is the Bühler hook . Theoretically, adhesive hooks have the highest load-bearing capacity and service life, in practice, however, the anchorage may fail due to setting errors.
Expansion anchor with bolt bracket
Chemical anchor with ring
