Yoke (clothing)

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Striped yoke on a long striped men's shirt
Fit on a woman's blouse

The yoke also shoulder yoke , saddle , Goller , Goller or Koller , Eng. yoke is the piece of fabric sewn into the back shoulder area of shirts that connects the back and front part. This visually compensates for the slightly different level between the right and left shoulder for every shirt wearer.

variants

The yoke can be made in one or two layers ("turned down"). It is common to have an outer side and an inner trim that surrounds the cut edges and gives the inside of the shirt a clean look. In the case of casual shirts and blouses, both layers are cut uniformly, in the case of formal shirts they are cut separately and in an inclined grain line, because the shirt adapts better to the body shape. In the case of collapsed yokes, different fabrics can be used for fashion reasons so that the inside has a special look.

A split in the middle Passe (Engl. Split yoke ) will allow more freedom of movement in tailored shirts, for example asymmetric seating positions and compensate for widely different shoulder heights. The then different pattern guidance is, however, also perceived as annoying. With blouses in particular, yokes - mostly in contrasting colors - are common in the front shoulder area. They hide the shoulder line, optically reduce its width and emphasize the upper body, a popular change in the fashionable silhouette.

etymology

The term Passe is derived from the Gothic batan , Old High German pazan , Middle High German-Lower Rhine fit , with the original meaning to go, proceed, also reach the goal , reach , be appropriate (French passer ). The same origin has better

Individual evidence

  1. ↑ Jules Fallon: Clothing: The Comprehensive Sewing & Tailoring Guide. Grünwald 2017, ISBN 978-3-8307-0978-7 , p. 176.
  2. ↑ Guide to " overturning " at Elle ellepuls.com accessed on July 31, 2018.
  3. ↑ Xsuits xuits.com. Retrieved July 31, 2018.
  4. ^ Nina Pohlmann: Tie etiquette. Munich 2007, ISBN 978-3-8338-0518-9 , p. 52.
  5. ↑ Teresa Gilewska: Clothing Concepts for each figure. Paris 2013, ISBN 978-3-8307-0906-0 , p. 105.
  6. ↑ Friedrich Schmitthenner: Short German dictionary for etymology, synonymics and orthography. Darmstadt 1837, p. 344.