Quilting

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Ladies' costume, England, around 1770–1790, quilted silk. Antwerp Fashion Museum.

As quilting or short steppes refers to a textile work technique in which two surfaces of organic material, usually fabric, but are successively stapled with or without lining, by sewing or embroidery also felt or leather.

history

Both functional and decorative reasons were decisive for the development of quilting.

Central and East Asia are assumed to be one of the areas of origin. Quilted textiles from the 4th to 3rd centuries BC are shown here. Found in graves. The tradition of making warm clothes and blankets has been preserved in China and Mongolia to this day. The oldest evidence of their use are image sources from Egypt (4th millennium) and Mesopotamia (3rd millennium). Even in classical antiquity, quilted shirts were worn as protective clothing or as a pressure-reducing garment under metal armor.

This use can be traced more clearly and reliably in pictorial sources from the European Middle Ages. Quilted shirts and skirts were worn as padding under iron chainmail and greaves as early as 1250 , later the quilted jackets worn over them were probably also sewn with leather and iron plates and are repeatedly encountered in depictions of fighting, starting with the Bayeux Tapestry . After around 1330, quilting techniques appear on military and civilian clothing in a variety of decorative patterns. Many knight tombs from the 14th century show a clear change in protective armament and the special role of quilted clothing in it. Until the end of the Middle Ages, the narrative enrichment of the Passion Altars continued to increase and, with numerous depictions of warriors, also offered rich illustrative material on the quilted clothing and armor of that time. In contrast to developments in the Far East or Africa, quilting techniques no longer play a decisive role in the modern protective armament of European warriors, but can be found again and again in other clothing, as winter clothing of the lower classes and with elaborate, fashionable decor forms in upper-class fashion.

A very unique tradition of quilting, primarily on blankets and pillows, has developed in the Anglo-Saxon countries with quilting , see the main article → Quilt .

In the second half of the 20th century, quilting found its way into women's fashion and sportswear.

  • David and Goliath with quilted trousers that were worn under the armor. Illumination from the Maciejowski Bible , around 1250

  • Doublet worn over the armor with narrow stitching on the epitaph of P.Creglinger († 1365), Rothenburg odT, Franciscan Church

  • Two different quilting patterns on the tunic of the soldiers during the capture of Christ from the Bordesholmer Altar, Schleswig Cathedral, 1521

  • Modern simple quilting in the back of a leather jacket

Individual evidence

  1. ↑ Schröder, pp. 67–81, on this bifunctionality in detail.
  2. ↑ Schröder, p. 19
  3. ↑ Schröder, pp. 27, 67, 80f.
  4. ↑ Schröder, pp. 29–31.
  5. ↑ Schröder, pp. 31–37.

literature

  • Almuth Schröder: Quilted and padded - On the history and bifunctionality of quilting . In: Waffen- und Costumekunde, 33rd vol., 1991, pp. 15–92.

See also