East Frisian cuisine

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East Frisian New Year cakes ( Rullekes ) are often served with tea at the end of the year.

The regional cuisine of the German cultural region of East Frisia is called East Frisian cuisine . It is traditionally characterized by a rich, easy-to-prepare diet, the so-called Redelköst (= regular diet) with a large proportion of fat. For a long time, mushy soups and stews, the preparation of which has hardly changed since the Middle Ages, were the main meals. The main reason for this was the limited cooking facilities over the open fire in the houses. Only after rod ovens found their way into households did this change.

Typical is the use of a lot of legumes and dried beans, bacon and salted meat. Fresh meat was only available in the winter months when slaughter took place. Fish, on the other hand, was hardly eaten, except in the areas immediately adjacent to the coast. For many centuries, game was reserved for the nobility and was therefore rarely on the table with most of the East Frisians .

The East Frisian cuisine is mostly down-to-earth and sometimes very hearty. It has great overlaps with those of neighboring regions, such as the Oldenburger , the Jeverländer or the Groninger . Economic and cultural similarities led to these parallels. Nevertheless, centuries-old, special eating and drinking habits have been preserved and there are also genuine East Frisian specialties. The best known are the East Frisian tea culture , the Snirtjebraten , Updrögt beans and the buttermilk porridge . Some specialties have exotic names such as Olle Wieven (old women), Peter in de Büx (Peter in the pants), Pirrel in de Pütt (toilets in a linen bag), Ollerweltsk (old-fashioned, outdated) or Rebbedi, who is also Lei-Wieven-Köst ( Lazy women food) is called. Other supposedly traditional East Frisian delicacies such as the East Frisian cake are of more recent origin. Still others like the kale meal popular in winter days or Grön Hein (Grüner Heinrich) are local variants of dishes popular throughout Northern Germany.

For centuries, East Frisian dishes and drinks had a bad reputation outside of the region. They are now enjoying greater popularity, so that they are also on the menu in typical Melkhuskes , cafés and restaurants in tourist resorts .

history

Until well into the Middle Ages, what was consumed in East Friesland can be proven almost exclusively through archeology , archaeobotany or archeozoology . There are isolated reports from the Roman Empire about the way of life of the Chauken who settled in East Friesland at that time. After that the written tradition dried up and did not start again until the Middle Ages. Cookbooks with recipes from East Frisia have been around since the 19th century.

Settlement in the Neolithic

Stone artifacts of the penknife groups

The first people who stayed in what is now East Frisia, at least for a long time, were Upper Palaeolithic hunters of the Hamburg culture . They followed the reindeer herds , which came to the region in the summer months, characterized by a wide tundra. The reindeer was their main source of food. They also caught and ate fish, birds and small game. Presumably, people also ate the pre-digested stomach contents of their prey as a welcome vegetable, since vegetable food was almost completely absent and could only be collected to a modest extent in the summer months anyway. In the Bölling-Interstadial the food supply expanded to include wild horses and wild cattle for a little over 100 years before the climate deteriorated again.

In another short warm phase shortly before the end of the last cold period , the Alleröd Interstadial , people who are assigned to the penknife groups hunted bison, red deer, elk, roe deer, wild boar, beaver and bear in the tundra and bush landscape. Then the climate deteriorated again. Presumably the people left Ostfriesland at the beginning of the cold spell of the younger tundra season.

At the beginning of the Atlantic , the Dogger Bank was gradually lost as a habitat for fishermen and hunters. People moved to neighboring regions, including East Frisia. There they settled on the coasts and on rivers, where they caught their main food source, fish and seafood. For the first time, imprints of cultivated plants are found on the ceramics they use . However, there is no archaeological evidence as to whether they themselves farmed crops and kept pets. In the Mesolithic , an improvement in the climate caused a change in lifestyle. The people no longer had to wander far, but could hunt deer, wild cattle, wild boar and small game from the main living quarters of their territory, which had become smaller due to the better availability of food. The seasons determined a changing offer. They caught fish with fishing rods, fish traps and nets. The most important fruit of this hunter culture was the hazelnut , which could also be preserved for the winter to a limited extent by roasting. In addition, people consumed mussels and probably all edible plants such as wild berries, roots, vegetables and the water nut, which is no longer found in East Frisia . The seasons also determined what was on offer. They prepared their meals in cooking pits , as they are, for. B. in Menstede-Coldinne , Neermoor and Utarp were discovered.

The Neolithic Revolution

Emmer.

Agriculture, animal husbandry and sedentarism have spread from south to north in Central Europe since the 6th millennium BC. By. The hunters and gatherers of the north and thus also East Frisia were in contact with the more southern cultural groups without initially adopting their way of life. With the Neolithic , the people who are assigned to the Rössen culture settled down in the middle of the 4th millennium and began farming and livestock farming in the form of subsistence farming. They kept cattle, sheep, horses, pigs and goats for meat. This population of domestic animals remained almost the same over the following millennia. The types of grain cultivated were emmer and einkorn , the multiline husk barley and naked barley. Probably people used these as bread grain.

Bronze age

Naked barley

During the older and middle Bronze Age, the way of life in East Frisia hardly differed from that of the Neolithic as a result of archaeological traces. The diet of the people continued to be based on agriculture and livestock. To this end, depending on the season, they collected eggs, mussels, honey and wild fruits in the immediate vicinity of their living quarters, and they went fishing. How they used the different biotopes to produce food is still insufficiently researched. To answer the question of which crops the people of this time cultivated, there are no meaningful findings from East Frisia. It can be assumed that the types of grain cultivated remained the same. It is known from neighboring regions that people in the sandy soils of the lowlands north of the low mountain range mainly cultivated naked and hulled barley and, to a lesser extent, wheat, with barley being the only grain in some parts of northern Germany, while in the Netherlands only naked barley was found on some sites has been discovered. The pea was also used as a legume. The few traces of broad beans, spelled and oats evidently do not yet prove the cultivation of these types of grain, but are probably to be regarded as weeds on the Bronze Age fields. As a supplement to the diet, hazelnuts, blackberries and raspberries were collected.

The horse bean . Opened, unripe legume with kidney-shaped seeds

Little is known about the manner in which fields were cultivated in the younger Bronze Age and the older pre-Roman Iron Age. Apparently, people continued to cultivate crops for self-sufficiency on small fields in summer. Plant pollen and charred remains of grain in settlements investigated during this period show that people on the Geest grew naked barley, spelled barley and emmer as well as possibly oats, while barley was the dominant crop on the sandy soils near the coast. The cultivation of flax, camelina and horse beans could still be proven there. Whether these were also harvested on the Geest cannot yet be proven due to the poor conservation conditions. In the marshes , agriculture was limited to the dry and sandy banks of the tidal creeks . On the other hand, farmers ran cattle on the wide pastures away from the tides. Mainly with cattle, which make up over 70 percent of the traditional animal bones.

Iron and Roman Imperial Era

Camelina
Seed oats in a field in August

The dominant position of cattle in livestock farming seems to have persisted into the older Iron Age, as studies of the settlement of Hatzum in the Rheiderland , which were inhabited at that time, have shown. There, cattle bones make up 53 percent of the material handed down. Sheep bones are in second place with 22 percent. In addition to meat and milk with bones, horn and fur, cattle provided the people with raw materials for the manufacture of everyday devices. The sheep supplied wool and, like the pigs, whose bones make up 15 percent of the examined material, meat. The horse, which is represented with eight percent under the bone remains, was also kept for meat supply. Goats, on the other hand, were probably only kept to a small extent on the march (goats and sheep are often indistinguishable on the basis of the bone material). In the Geest, on the other hand, due to the forests that exist there, pig farming could have been a little more important. It is unclear whether people already kept poultry for regular nutrition at the time or were content with hunting birds and collecting eggs.

The population then thinned out noticeably as the landscape became increasingly swamped. A new settlement did not take place until the second century BC through the Chauken . The settlers from the large association of Germanic Ingwäons probably came from Jutland and Scandinavia .

In 77 AD, the Roman chronicler Pliny described the way of life of the Chauken, who lived on artificially raised mounds of earth in the coastal area, the terps, with the following words:

“… We saw the Chauken peoples in the north, called the larger and the smaller. Twice in the period of each day and each night the sea pours in great motion over an infinite surface and reveals an eternal struggle of nature in an area in which it is doubtful whether it belongs to the land or to the sea. There a deplorable people inhabit high mounds of earth that are built with their hands according to the measure of the highest tide. In their built huts they resemble seafarers when the water covers the land around them, and castaways when it has retreated and their huts lie there like stranded ships alone. From their huts they hunt down fish that have stayed behind. They are not allowed to keep cattle like their neighbors, not even to fight with wild animals, since there is no bush. They weave ropes from reeds and rushes to make nets for fishing. And by drying the mud they have grasped in their hands more in the wind than in the sun, they warm their food and the limbs frozen by the north wind through the earth. "[So they cooked and heated with peat .]" They only drink rainwater, that is collected in pits in the forecourt of the house ... "

- Pliny : Naturalis historia XVI 1, 2–4

This representation is considered exaggerated. In fact, the Chauken ran cattle breeding on the pastures of the marshes and kept many horses. They are referred to as the people on the North Sea coast who owned the most. They also kept pigs, sheep, horses and cattle for meat production. With these they also produced milk. They went hunting in the nearby forests of the Geest, and they also enjoyed eating fish. They used spring barley on slightly elevated fields, as it is more resistant to salt than other types of grain. They grew flax and camelina as oil plants. They cooked their grain products with the fuel peat mainly into porridges, which were enjoyed cold and warm. Less often they baked flat cakes or bread from it in clay ovens. Apparently they didn't know cheese. However, they used sheep and cow milk to produce butter for their own use. Cooking, roasting, roasting and stewing are required for the meat preparation. They ate their dishes from bowls that they imported from the Roman Empire.

From the turn of the ages to around 100 AD, emmer and naked wheat disappeared. Seed oats and rye, which was probably grown as winter rye, are spreading as new types of grain.

Migration period and the Middle Ages

Sand oats

During the Migration Period, the region's population decreased sharply. Finds from this period have only been sparsely discovered to date. A residual population has remained in parts of the Geest, as indicated by settlements with remains of houses in Hohegaste and Loga. The finds there extend into the middle of the 5th century, in a few other places up to the 6th century. On the basis of pollen diagrams, a strong reforestation of the region could be proven, which indicates that East Frisia was only inhabited by a few people during this time. This changed in the early 7th century when the Frisians immigrated to the region. First they settled the Geest, shortly afterwards the marshland. The population increased rapidly as a result of archaeological research. The Frisians cleared the forests over a large area and converted them back into pasture and arable land. The main crop on the Geest remained by far the rye, which was cultivated as a winter grain and from the 10th century by means of pest management , which is indicated by typical weeds. Other types of cereal cultivated were multi-row barley and seed oats and the sand oats that are no longer grown today, which are called black oats in East Friesland, flax and, to a lesser extent, dwarf wheat, horse beans, vetch and peas. Investigations of the bog body Mann von Bernuthsfeld , who came from the 7th or early 8th century, showed that he ate more vegetables than meat. However, he was unusually old with up to 60 years, which is why it is unclear whether his diet is exemplary for the time.

In the sea and river marshes, there was much smaller farming than in the Geest. Barley, oats, emmer, flax and horse beans were grown there, with the latter remaining of great importance until the Middle Ages, in contrast to the inland areas on the coasts. The main source of income and food, however, was milk and meat production through livestock farming. In the Middle Ages, the production of cheese and butter became more important. The latter in particular was one of the main sources of fat as an abundant product of domestic agriculture. In the Middle Ages it was said that the inhabitants of the region kneaded their butter on the bread with their fingers. Menko von Wittewierum, abbot of Bloemhof Monastery , reported of the Frisian crusaders that each of them took 6 buckets of butter (that's one and a half quintals), the hindquarters of a pig, a side of beef, half a bushel of flour and seven marks sterling with them on the crusade.

For the preparation of their meals, the Frisians used the ceramic spherical pot, which was in use for more than 500 years in hardly any shape. It was the universal vessel for scooping water, for keeping food and for cooking. The latter happened well into the 14th century on ground-level fireplaces in the houses. To cook the food, these round-bottomed pots were placed directly in the hearth fire. In addition, the residents of the region still used flat bowls with spout handles from local production. Ceramic drinking and serving vessels , on the other hand, remained largely unknown. Finds of hand-held millstones prove the processing of grain on the farms. The fishing can only be done indirectly, for example through the discovery of saltwater fish bones in Lütetsburg and possibly through the discovery of barrels that may have been used to store herrings before they were used to secure well shafts.

Until the introduction of rice, barley barley (East Frisian flat: Gört ) was the basis of every East Frisian feast. After that she left the field to the grain, which was mainly imported from India at the time, as a side dish. Barley barley still plays an important role in regional cuisine as an addition to soup, and fresh, unfermented barley broth was already known as a health food in the Middle Ages. According to oral and written tradition, people mainly ate the horse or broad bean. A food that was eaten almost unchanged until the beginning of the 20th century. Peas have probably only replaced beans recently.

A typical holiday dish of the 13th century consisted of leek soup with chunks of bread, rice with almond milk and deep fried fig cakes. Buckwheat was cultivated from the 14th century. Rye remained the most important grain. Baked in communal clay or stone ovens.

The region's culinary reputation remained poor. Heinrich Taube von Selbach , Commander of the Johanniterkommende Steinfurt in the 14th century, reports :

"Friesland is the world's cesspool: cow dung is used there as a brandy, the seiche is used for washing and the white (= whey) has to replace the wine there."

- Heinrich Taube von Selbach : Quoted from: Drainage Association Emden: The eight and their seven sluices . Cultural, water and agricultural development of an East Frisian coastal landscape. Ed .: Jannes Ohling. Pewsum 1963. p. 190

At the tables of the East Frisian chiefs, on the other hand, the table parties dined a little better. Many cider musts have been handed down from them , which suggest that they liked to eat a piece of fat smoked meat. The nail wood, which is still popular today (see the section on meat dishes), dates back to that time. It was kept for special occasions or in case of illness.

In the 15th century reports about the alcoholism of the East Frisians accumulate. The East Frisian document book from the Kommende Jemgum reports "of the St. Stephen's drinking parties that the residents there used to celebrate every year, to the confusion of humanity and harm to the soul". December 26th is the day of remembrance of St. Stephen in the calendar of the Roman Catholic Church , Old Catholic Church , Lutheran Churches and the Anglican Church . It used to be the New Year's Eve. A similar report is available from the Kaland Brotherhood in Marienkamp Abbey near Esens. At that time it was also customary to pay rent or duties with beer. For example, the provost of Barthe Monastery complained in 1490 that the Nortmoor farmers were becoming more and more demanding in their demands on the monastery and that they had to be given ham to go with beer. Smaller offenses were punished with beer fines until the introduction of the Prussian Land Law, which also promoted alcohol consumption.

Modern times until the end of the Cirksena rule (1744)

Up until 1500, the eating habits of the social classes hardly differed in East Frisia. Breakfast for all residents, from simple farm workers to noblemen, mostly consisted of a warm porridge, hot water or beer soup and a cold morning drink, which consisted of buttermilk, water, beer or wine. Beer was of the greatest importance, as it provided people with important calories as a staple food until the introduction of the potato. Accordingly, beer was not only drunk, but also made into soup. Contemporary witness Ulrich von Dornum writes that kale with bacon is a popular carnival food. Porridges, stews and soups remained the most common hot meal. They were eaten with hands or spoons by both the rural and wealthier sections of the population, with the more affluent residents of the region gradually turning to skewer their food on sharp knives. The fork remained a luxury item until the 17th century. Therefore, until the beginning of the 20th century, complete cutlery was only available in the Princely House (until 1744) and in the more affluent middle-class households.

In the 16th and 17th centuries, the East Frisian royal court , which ruled until 1744 , began to internationalize its eating habits based on models from other European noble houses. There is a list of the food delivered from 1680. The farm produced “3588 chickens, 26474 dozen eggs, 176 geese, 44410 pounds of home-bred meat, 6393 pounds of bacon, 36 tons and 45 pounds of butter, 184 roosters, 304 turkeys, 453 grapes, 41 pigs, 18 suckling pigs, 82 ox tongues , 274 pounds of stockfish, 7 tons of herring, 5 tons of laberdan (salted cod), 6 tons of kippers, 31 pieces of cheese, 318 jugs of olive oil, 1843 jugs of wine or vinegar, 998 jugs of salt, 333 jugs of peas, 4 deer, 15 deer, 63 Grouse, 141 rabbits, 394 partridges, 89 snipe, 21 wild ducks, 30 haddock, 73 sole, 546 plaice, 66 lobsters, 2920 white bread and 15096 sour bread ”. Many servants were required to import and prepare the food. In 1700 there was “a cook, a confectioner, a wine tavern, a baker, a brewer, three mouth cooks, a pheasant and capon master, a kitchen master, a kitchen gardener, a waiter, a roaster, a cook, one at the Auricher Hof in 1700 Bäckerknecht, a chicken picker, five kitchen boys, a fisherman, a hunter to Ihlow , a hunter to Barthe , a Mohr , two Heyducken and a Turkish woman ”. At the noble table they served beef, veal and patties, venison, fresh and dry fish, cakes, pies, young chickens, milk or egg cakes, pastries, sour bread, white bread, sweet cheese, butter, French beer and Rhine wine.

The bourgeoisie tried to imitate this way of life and spent considerable sums on it, especially at wedding ceremonies. Often people could not pay the bills, which is why the Counts of East Frisia issued an ordinance against untidy frethen un supen in 1572 . From then on, poor citizens were only allowed to serve bread, butter and cheese at weddings, while the richer ones were also allowed to serve cherries, apples, pears, nuts, almonds, raisins, figs, beer and wine.

The residents continue to bake bread in communal ovens, less often in private ovens. Only in the richer marshland areas did this take over from the country bakers from the 16th century and professional bakers established themselves in the few towns in the region. It is known about the Krummhörn , for example, that there were no more private ovens there in 1775.

Ostfreeske Brann (t) wien is still offered in many variations.

The main drinks were beer and buttermilk. The latter was drunk so often that the East Frisian humanist Henricus Ubbius claimed in a description of East Frisia written in 1530 that the stronger bones of rural women, especially in the ankles, were due to the abundant consumption of buttermilk. The advent of the first distilleries in the 16th century, the brandy made has increased the alcohol problem in the region. During the Thirty Years' War, there were increasing signs of widespread alcoholism in East Frisia. The authorities tried to contain the problem legally and stipulated the amount of permissible beer debt. Finally, the Church felt compelled to declare war on alcoholism in sermons and prayers.

The East Frisian tea culture goes back to the early 17th century. Around 1610 ships of the Dutch East India Company brought tea to Europe for the first time , which until 1675 was only administered as medicine in East Frisia. Until the 18th century, consumption finally established itself in everyday life. Around 1720 there was already an extensive tea trade in East Frisia. First of all, the East Frisians drank green tea . It was not until the end of the eighteenth century that they switched mainly to black tea . The introduction of tea seems to have initially encouraged the consumption of brandy. Obviously it was customary to drink a glass of alcohol after consuming the hot beverage. In general, people drank on many occasions. Except in the hunting pastures of the inns (dining rooms for everyone) also during "special work processes and opportunities, when threshing seeds outdoors, later with the threshing machine , slaughtering pigs, christening children, and funerals."

In the 17th century , pastor Balthasar Arend , who worked in Berdum , wrote a description of the diet of the marshland, geest and moor inhabitants:

“When it comes to eating and drinking every day, the residents are not particularly tasty, drink buttermilk, käseweihe (= whey) and thin beer and eat grits, thick milk, water porridge, beans, smoked meat, stobbels (= small beets) or Klütjen and the like. Their bread is coarse barley bread for lack of rock (= rye) and wheat. The butter must do the best with all dishes, as much butter is wasted in this country. "

- Balthasar Arend : Quoted from: Hanne Klöver: Ostfriesland cooks: Van Pottjekiekers un Pottjeslikkers. Soltau Kurier Verlag, Norden 2008, ISBN 3-928327-53-4 , p. 13.

The publicist and historian Onno Klopp wrote a century later (1856) that the way of life of the East Frisians had become healthier in the last period of the princely government. Coffee and tea as a substitute for spirits would have had a soothing and mitigating effect on family life .

18th and 19th centuries

After the local dynasty of Cirksena died out , East Frisia lost its independence within the Holy Roman Empire in 1744 and from then on belonged to Prussia . They introduced the potato in their new province , which soon became a staple food for the poorer parts of the population, as they were affordable for everyone. The simple population processed them mainly into stews. Richer farmers and the upper class loathed the tuber until well into the 19th century. They viewed the potato as poor people's food or as fodder for cattle.

The Prussians wanted the East Frisians to stop drinking tea, especially after the failure of the Royal Prussian-Asiatic Trading Company (East Asian Trading Company) in Emden, and had it forbidden by law. However, tea had long since become an important drink for the East Frisians, as a contemporary report shows.

“You drink a lot of coffee in Jeverschen , usually three times a day; The more in the west, namely in the morning at breakfast, in the afternoon and in the evening when no porridge is eaten, but coffee with chicory in the morning around 11 o'clock . Sugar is added on visits, usually Candi , otherwise rarely. "

- Fridrich Arends : Ostfriesland and Jever in geographical, statistical and especially agricultural terms. Third volume. Widow Hyner & Sohn Emden and Hahn'sche Hofbuchhandlung Hannover 1820, page 422

The East Frisians therefore reacted to the order with increased smuggling . This dispute with the estates , which lasted until around 1780 , is also known as the "tea war". Even during the Napoleonic Continental Blockade (1806–1814), the East Frisians again operated extensive smuggling operations in order to continue to ensure the supply of tea.

In the 19th century, the food of the broad sections of the population remained monotonous, as a report from those days shows:

“At all times there was soup of oatmeal and field beans after getting up in the morning . The beans were first cooked on their own so that the dark broth that is boiling from the beans could be removed. When the water was on the fire, a large wooden spoon ( Ostfriesisches Platt : Sleef ) full of porridge and tallow was put into it. When this was done, the beans were first put in. Whoever wanted to drink went to the water bucket. No other drinks were known. When the children came home from school, they were given soft cheese on bread. At noon there was no cooking, but only in the evening at 4 o'clock, then a fire was put on in the stove (ounil) to cook. The food consisted of cabbage, peas, parsnips, Scheldt barley, dumplings, sauces or the like. There were dumplings with every meal. They were made from wheat, barley or buckwheat flour and took the place of potatoes. On Sundays there was probably also grits with plums and rice. A self-fattened pig was slaughtered in every household, as were geese. In summer there was often fish, rays and plaice, salted fish, and probably also stockfish. "

- Franz Poppe : Between Ems and Weser: Land and people in Oldenburg and East Friesland. Schulzesche Hof bookstore. Oldenburg 1888, p. 461.

During the first half of the 19th century, the social structure changed in the march. Until then it was customary for the farmer and servants to dine at one table, but now table manners have changed. From then on, the peasant family ate alone in the kitchen or in a separate dining room, while the servants sat at an extra table in the Achterköken (kitchen). There the foreman was allowed to distribute the bread and be the first to help himself. He also determined when the other servants were allowed to start eating by picking up the spoon. By putting down the spoon, he asked those at the table to finish their meal. On the Geest, however, farmers and staff ate together well into the 20th century.

At that time, breakfast in the march no longer consisted of porridge, but of sandwiches, while the Geest farmers continued to prefer buttermilk porridge or buckwheat groats. After the first work in the fields or in winter after feeding the cattle, people had breakfast with tea or coffee around eight o'clock. At around 11 o'clock there was the next tea, the Elführerje. At lunchtime there was mostly pulpy food made from fresh or dried peas, French beans, turnips, cabbage and above all potatoes, rarely also grits. The farmers also ate pancakes made from buckwheat flour, baked with bacon or in oil, and very rarely roasted. It was cooked in small pieces in the pan. Meat rations consisted mainly of bacon, ham and the like hung up near the fireplace. In the west of East Friesland it was also common to serve Mehlpütt , a dessert made from flour and yeast dough , at lunchtime . There was also rice with raisins or plums and a good piece of cured or smoked meat, ham or bacon.

Grootheider tip

We ate together from one bowl. Plates were largely unknown. The East Frisians therefore ate jacket potatoes, for example, by pouring the cooked tubers on the table. Everyone could take and peel them off as needed. Then he dipped (dipped) it into the pan with a hot dip pan and then placed it on the bread. A typical dish of this time is the Grootheider Stipp , a sauce made from ham, onions, milk and flour, which is preferably eaten with jacket potatoes. In the evenings in the country there was either sour cream with rusks, bread and sugar, sandwiches or wrungel (thick milk with cream) with sweet cream. There was tea again.

Alcoholism continued to grow in the 19th century. The number of stokereen (small distilleries), which were mostly operated by farmers in addition to their agriculture, rose from 83 in 1818 to 134 in 1832. In addition, there were numerous small private distilleries that produced alcoholic beverages without being checked . Grocery stores were almost always associated with an inn and tavern. Alcohol was available to everyone and was relatively cheap to buy. Around 1800 a liter of good genever cost twelve Stüber, which was roughly the daily wage of a worker. Cheaper schnapps cost considerably less. A liter of beer only cost two Stüber. Alcoholism was a major problem at the time, affecting not only the working class but also other segments of the population. In response, numerous moderation associations emerged that advocate reduced alcohol consumption.

Baked in a bread oven until the 20th century. This sometimes belonged directly to a property or was used jointly, but mostly only put into operation once a month.

19th century colonist house with garden for self-sufficiency in the Moordorf Moor Museum

In the 19th century, many East Frisians created small parcels for growing vegetables for self-sufficiency. This was also possible for the poorer classes such as farm workers or colonists. In addition to traditional vegetables, they also planted spinach, lettuce, radishes, tomatoes, kohlrabi, black salsify, cut sprouts, flowers, savoy cabbage and Brussels sprouts as well as cucumbers and pumpkins in the gardens.

The 20th century

Until the 20th century, the East Frisians cooked their dishes over an open hearth fire. There was only room for a single pot, which is why soups and stews dominated the menu.

The central point of the kitchen remained the open hearth fire, over which all dishes were cooked, until the beginning of the 20th century. This severely restricted the cooking possibilities, as there was only space for a pot. In this way, a maximum of two dishes can be prepared at the same time. For example, the meat course, the Hachje , was cooked in the pot , consisting of dried pork knuckle, potatoes and flour, while under the lid of the pot the pudding was cooking in the steam of the main course.

The main food was therefore simple dishes ( redelkost ) such as porridges, soups and, above all, mixed stews with plenty of fat. This was made with little liquid, which should guarantee the full flavor intensity. This was basically the old medieval bacon diet. On weekdays, vegetable dishes mashed with potatoes with bacon or a “pea or bean soup that could be described as porridge” were served on the table. In the evening the East Frisians ate a buttermilk soup enriched with pearl barley, with bread and butter and cheese. The food remained monotonous and was based on the vegetables available in each season. In the spring these were the big beans , which one liked to eat with bacon and sometimes with new potatoes, in the summer the French beans, which were enjoyed with the first herring . Various types of cabbage followed in autumn, which still play an important role in East Frisian cuisine today, and in winter either dried beans or kale with bacon. Fresh meat was rarely available outside of the slaughter season. For the winter, the autumn buttermilk was kept in the cellar for months, "until it had reached a degree of acidity that the finished pulp had to be softened again by adding syrup in order to make it palatable - at least for the children's palate."

The food was still eaten with spoons or fingers. As additional cutlery there was only a single knife at the table of the rural population, with which both bread and meat were cut. Only industrial mass production made cutlery affordable for the poorer parts of the population.

The cookware consisted of heavy cast iron pots and pans that were hung over the fire and tripod pots that were placed directly in the flames. In them the peasant women kept food warm or cooked porridge.

During the First World War , the highly taxed tea became increasingly scarce. In 1917 the bottlenecks were most severe. Until 1919, outdated or inferior items for other reasons also dominated the trade.

Bar ovens are still in operation in some kitchens in East Frisia.
A waffle iron for bar ovens. It can be placed in the stove top like pots.

In the 1930s, preserving in mason jars prevailed in East Friesland , which made it much easier to preserve food. At the same time a revolution in the East Frisian kitchens meant the arrival of wood-fired stoves made of metal, the so-called cooking machines , which are also called bar stoves or ring ovens in East Frisia . Nevertheless, after their invention in the 19th century, they only slowly gained acceptance and were only widely available around 1930. The bar stove cleared the kitchens of smoke and soot. It offered space for several saucepans and had an oven. In addition, it could be used for permanent heating of water, so that the East Frisians now always had hot water available. Special waffle irons could be placed in the stove top like the pots. The residents used them to bake thick bacon or waffles made from yeast dough. In those years, the electrification of East Frisia began. The households were gradually connected to the water, electricity and gas network. Today, electric and gas stoves dominate East Frisian kitchens. Nevertheless, bar stoves are also in operation in many households.

During the Second World War , tea and coffee were regarded as dispensable luxury goods and were only given out across the empire as “one-time special allocations”. Only East Frisians received regular rations. For this purpose, the National Socialists created an officially established East Frisian tea drinker district and introduced a tea menu for extra tea rations, which were specified in the Oldenburg tea distribution key . The special rations were given out at so-called tea distribution points. Among others at Onno Behrends . Each East Frisian eligible for subscription received only 20 grams of tea per month. After protests this amount was increased to 40 grams and later decreased to 30 grams. After the end of the war, teenage problems were greatest. The black market flourished. Many East Frisians drove to the Ruhr area, where the miners received extra rations of tea for their hard work, and exchanged tea for bacon and butter from their own production.

Until well into the 1980s, it was common in East Friesland to get some vegetables from your own garden ( called Tuun in the regional language). Since then, the kitchen gardens have been replaced by easier-to-maintain lawns. Small livestock and pig farming for self-sufficiency with meat also went out of fashion. Until then, chickens, ducks and geese were slaughtered themselves, while pigs (rarely beef or sheep) were slaughtered. Home slaughter is less common today, but it is still widespread. In the district of Aurich alone, 12 to 15 practicing veterinarians or meat inspectors work as volunteers on behalf of the food inspection to monitor house slaughter. The traditional Snirtjebraten is now often bought at the butcher's or at the meat counter.

To this day, the peculiarities of East Frisian cuisine are still alive or filled with new life through a return to traditional specialties. In the meantime, the old East Frisian regional products necessary for the preparation of traditional dishes can also be bought in modern hypermarkets, some of which start special campaigns with the products and expressly advertise them. But East Frisian food and drinks also have a better reputation beyond the borders of the region, so that they are also on the menu in the tourist resorts in typical Melkhuskes, cafes and restaurants. The Gastronomenverband Ostfriesland Culinary has set itself the goal of bringing the diversity of East Frisian cuisine closer to locals and tourists. Only products from regional, environmentally friendly agriculture are used.

Culinary specialties

Processed products and meals made from them

Vegetables and side dishes

Updrögt beans

The selection of vegetables was traditionally based on the course of the year and was very limited for a long time. It has been quite large since the 19th century. In their own garden ( Tuun ), the East Frisians harvested turnips, large beans, carrots, parsley, savory, green peas, onions, sugar peas, green beans, cucumbers, leeks, cabbage (white cabbage), kale and beetroot in their own garden ( Tuun ) . From field beans to winter hedge onions, around 200 different types of vegetables were grown in the region, including the East Frisian palm , a type of kale. In the spring they bought the seeds they needed from wandering traders, the so-called Saadjekerls. Red cabbage, gray and green peas and soup beans, on the other hand, had to be bought in the grocery store. All of the vegetables mentioned play an important role in East Frisian cuisine to this day, with the cabbage varieties still dominating.

The drying of vegetables is a traditional method of preservation in East Frisia. For example, very ripe East Frisian bacon beans are pulled onto a thread (a kind of packaging tape) to dry with the help of a darning needle and then hung in the sun or a warm room to dry for six to eight weeks. Unthreading the beans, which used to be processed in large quantities at harvest time, was considered monotonous, which is why family members or neighbors liked to do this job together. Nonetheless, Updrögt beans are an East Frisian specialty and are still available today.

In addition, vegetables are preserved in the traditional way by boiling or pickling them in salt. For example, insett beans ( cut bean stew ). For the dish, runner beans were cut into fine strips with a special machine and then preserved in wooden barrels through salt and lactic acid fermentation. In winter, the beans were made into a hearty stew with pork belly and potatoes.

Before refrigerators and freezers were available, the East Frisians stored beets, potatoes and apples for the cold season in a storage pit called Dobb .

East Frisian kale dish with pee (right), Mettwurst and mixed bacon

The main course typical of East Friesland in winter is kale with pee and / or smoked pork and smoked bacon. In order to achieve the hearty, spicy East Frisian variant of kale, the meat must be cooked in the kale and never separately. Traditionally, kale is only harvested after it has been exposed to frost for at least one day ; this is how it achieves its unmistakable taste. This also ensures that “caterpillars and similar animals have frozen and fallen off”.

The most common side dishes are potatoes , which are eaten in different variations (especially boiled potatoes). It was not always like this: potatoes only became a staple food after the Prussians came to power in East Frisia. For a long time, however, the tubers, affordable for everyone, were used as fodder, poor or servant food. They were frowned upon by the bourgeoisie and wealthy farmers well into the 19th century. Only then did they find their way into cookbooks and thus into the menu of the upper classes of society.

fish and seafood

Shrimp with jacket potatoes and sour cream.
Brataal.

In the past, fish consumption was always low in the countryside in East Frisia. Outside of the sluice and port towns, people usually ate less fish than in most inland countries. The East Frisian rural population simply thought it was not nutritious, which is expressed in the proverb Fiss lett de Minsk as he is (fish leaves people as they are). Only in the last few decades has the consumption of fish also increased in the East Frisian inland.

Fish traditionally processed on the coast such as burbot , sturgeon , lampreys and smelt are no longer caught or offered for sale. Others, still consumed food fish are plaice , flounder , herring , and mackerel . Matjes is still produced in many variations in Emden today . Are also popular fish sandwiches . Crabs are landed in the Sielorten , which are eaten regionally on black bread, as soup or with jacket potatoes. These North Sea crabs are called "garnet" by the Frisians. The largest fleet with 25 cutters is based in Greetsiel . For hygienic reasons, the direct purchase from the cutter is now partially restricted. Anglers use the abundance of fish in East Friesland's inland waters to supply themselves with fish. This is often smoked .

Mussels, on the other hand, do not have the best reputation in East Frisia. Oysters were reserved for the princes and the mussels , which are abundant in the mudflats , were considered poor people's fare. It was only consumed when no fish was available, which is also reflected in the proverb Mussel is good Fisk, if d'r anners is nothing (the mussel is a good fish when there is nothing else). Today blue mussel fishermen collect the young mussels and then sow them on special banks in the Wadden Sea , in order to harvest them one or two years later. In East Frisia there are still two mussel fishing operations in Greetsiel and Norddeich . There are four in all of Lower Saxony.

Meat dishes

Roast Snirtie.
Rullfleesk (roulades).
Ham, Mettwurst and Pümmel

Traditionally, meat is rarely smoked in East Friesland, but rather cured and / or air-dried for preservation . Dazulegen the East Frisians hams, shoulders, paws and knuckle of pork for three weeks in a salted liquid, the brine -filled Püllpott , a stone pot. A slaughtered beef was almost completely cured by placing it in a large barrel and expertly salting it by the butcher. Then the meat was removed from the brine, put in a linen bag to protect against flies and then hung up to dry. In the old farmer's kitchens, ham, sides of bacon and sausages hung from the ceiling close to the open fire on a wooden handle, the wiem . Today, well-ventilated rooms such as the stairwell are preferred for this.

East Frisian sausage specialties are pümmelwurst made from beef and pork, which is hung up to dry for about eight weeks, pee , a smoked coarse sausage made from oat or barley groats with various spices that is eaten with kale, or Drögt Mettwurst (air-dried sausage). Another specialty is Nagelholt (nail wood), a specially treated beef ham that is stored in brine for 20 days and then air-dried for nine days. Billkes is cured ham from sheep. Its consistency is very similar to the Nagelholt and was previously considered a delicacy in East Frisia.

The Norderneyer sea air ham is not a traditional delicacy . It is the product of a recent marketing initiative. Sales are carried out by Sauels AG based in Kempen .

The most famous meat dish is the snirtje roast . It consists of large pieces of pork, traditionally mostly neck or shoulder , as a festive meal also made of fillet or roast , which is mixed with cloves, allspice , juniper berries and bay leaves before searing . Beef that is pickled according to the same recipe is called rintje or rintjebraten.

Other popular meat dishes are Lunk van't Lamm (leg of lamb) and Braden Knientje ( roast rabbit). Rabbits were a popular food, especially on the islands, even if the hunt was actually reserved for the Princely House, which had released the animals on the islets. In Borkum, so many of the animals living in the dunes were eaten that the islanders were mocked as kneelers (rabbit eaters ). Sheep, ducks and chickens are also traditionally eaten with great pleasure. As a classic “seaman's dish”, Labskaus was rarely on the menu and when it was, it was more popular in shipping circles - it is now also available in home-style restaurants. Labskaus is traditionally eaten with matjes or rollmops .

Game , on the other hand, was largely reserved for the rulers until the 18th century, so that it is rarely found in traditional East Frisian cuisine. At the Fürstenhof, however, hares , grouse, herons, partridges, deer, partridges, snipes, wild ducks and field thrushes were eaten, which the princes had previously killed themselves during hunts.

Soups and stews

Bean soup with bacon and sausage.

Soups and stews have the longest tradition of all East Frisian dishes due to the cooking facilities (see the history section). They were easy to prepare all year round with just a few ingredients. Stews are also known under the names Burenpott (farmer's pot ) or Dörstampt Eeten ( mashed food). Up until the 19th century, potatoes, pearl barley, beans, dried lentils and peas were used almost exclusively in large areas of the region. After the East Frisians began to plant orchards and vegetable gardens for self-sufficiency, the list of ingredients grew and with it the variety of flavors.

On weekdays, most of the East Frisians ate a vegetable dish mashed with potatoes or a “pea or bean soup that is more like porridge”. In the past, milk soup was often prepared on farms. In the march, buttermilk porridge with black bread was daily on the breakfast and dinner table. Fruit soups complemented the offer in summer.

Today soups with beef, chicken or pork are popular, such as the East Frisian wedding soup - a meat broth. Soups with seafood such as garnet or fish are also prepared. Hearty stews with turnips, peas, lentils or gray peas with lots of meat are also popular.

Salt and sugar

Kluntje

Due to its proximity to the coast, East Frisia was never low in salt. The extraction of white gold was an important economic factor in the region from the 11th to the 14th centuries. Since the humid climate did not allow extraction through evaporation, the East Frisians won their salt on Nesserland , on the island of Bant , and on the lower Ems in Soltborg , mainly from the salt-soaked peat on the coast. These were dried and then burned. Table salt was then extracted from the ashes of the sea peat by leaching . In addition, the East Frisians imported salt from Lüneburg and Minden.

For most of the East Frisians, sugar was unaffordable. In the Middle Ages, one kilogram of the sweetener was equivalent to 100 kilograms of wheat. With the beginning of the modern era, this changed somewhat. In 1550 a ship sailed from Emden to Brazil for the first time to import sugar from there. Pharmacists sold the sugar in East Frisia, for example in Emden, where a delivery of sugar works to the city council from 1576 has been handed down, or in Aurich, where Count Johann bought sugar almonds, sugar peas, aniseed confectionery, caneel, cloves, from a pharmacist in 1602. Oranges, ginger sugar and marzipan. Until the 18th century, only pharmacies sold the coveted sweetener. It remained expensive and for a large part of the population a luxury good that very few could afford. It was not until the middle of the 18th century that sugar could be produced from domestic beets and after sugar beets were grown on a large scale from the middle of the 19th century onwards, did the sugar consumption increase in poorer households as well. They used it mainly for the preservation of fruit and, in smaller quantities, for sweetening food and drinks.

A typical sugar specialty produced for the East Frisian market are kluntjes (rock sugar) . Over 40 percent of the crystallized sugar is sold in East Frisia. The East Frisians mainly use it to sweeten tea but also as an ingredient in New Year's cakes, for example. Kluntje is crystallized from concentrated sugar solutions over several days. Until around the middle of the 20th century, thread candies crystallized in copper vessels (pots) with thread threads were widespread. A new manufacturing process has been known since 1960. Loser Kluntje has dominated since then, but it only takes two to three weeks to achieve its full size. This is measured in such a way that the Kluntje has dissolved after three cups of tea and in a period of 15 to 20 minutes.

herbs and spices

Sage in the kitchen garden of Ihlow Abbey . The choice of plants goes back to the Capitulare de villis vel curtis imperii of Charlemagne .

Yarrow , nettles , sorrel and samphire were and are used to flavor dishes. In the 17th century , pastor Balthasar Arend , who worked in Berdum , wrote a list of root plants, perennials and herbs that the residents used in regional cuisine. According to this, the East Frisians refined their dishes at that time with, among other things, " aglei , alant, angolica, mugwort, borage, cardbenedicten, chamois, dill, sprouts, endives, fennel, houseleek, autumn roses, Jelängerjelieber (honeysuckle), deer tongue, elder, ilex, sweet flag, Kürffel, Caraway, Kreß, Spoonbill, Lovage, Mairan, Melissa, Report, Müntze, Näglin, Ochsenzung, Petrosilien, Peonia, Pollei, Pimpenel, Rauten, Roses, Sage, Scharlei, Sorrel, Mustard, Summer Flowers, Spargen, Spinasie, Thimian or Wormwood ".

Pepper was probably also introduced into northern Germania by Roman merchants. Other spices were known in East Frisia by the 16th century at the latest, but for a long time they were only affordable for the authorities. Count Johann, for example, had saffron, cloves, ginger, caneel, caraway and mace from 1536-39 imported via the Netherlands and Count Enno had a large amount of rye shipped to Lisbon in exchange for spices in 1586. The establishment of the “Royal Prussian Asian Compagnie in Emden to Canton and China” by Frederick the Great in 1751 also aimed at importing tea and porcelain as well as spices. Even if the company failed just a few years later, spices such as pepper, anise, star anise, saffron, ginger, galangal, turmeric, cardamom, mace, nutmeg, cloves, basil, marjoram, caraway, coriander, bay leaf and cinnamon became cheaper due to increasing import quantities of other nations also in East Frisia, so that from the 17th century they found their way into the kitchens of broader sections of the population. This changed the recipes and the taste of traditional dishes such as warm beer, buckwheat pancakes and biscuits considerably, as evidenced by handwritten cookbooks from that time. The flavoring ingredients were sold in pharmacies.

fruit

Fruit of the Gute Luise variety from the side and detail of the calyx

The tradition of fruit growing by the East Frisians is sparse. During the march it will hardly have paid off on the impermeable clay soil. Only in places more sheltered from the wind was there apparently a larger cultivation of resistant varieties, as indicated by the Borssumer plums and Larelter Duuräpfel (permanent apples) mentioned in the 18th century. There were other cultivation areas on the Ems as well as in the stately gardens of Hinte, Loppersum, Jennelt, Groothusen, Westerhusen and in the castle garden of Greetsiel, where melons under glass as well as cherries, mulberries and grapes that were sold throughout the region grew. The maintenance of these gardens was the responsibility of a trained gardener.

Fruit varieties traditionally grown in East Friesland are apples, pears, elderberries, bickberries, rhubarb, sweet and sour cherries, egg plums, pear and apple quinces, gooseberries as well as red, clear and black currants. The traditional fruit bushes and trees, on the other hand, have largely been replaced today by more robust or more productive plants, so that local varieties such as Kaneelapfel (cinnamon apple), as well as the pisoontjes (pigeon apples), Pannkooksappel (pancake apple) or the Nurejes from the region, which are named after their shape disappeared. Pear types such as bergamot, Gute Luise, butter pear, Holter Peeren and Clapps Liebling are rarely found today. The inhabitants of the moors used to pick the cranberries, the islanders the fruits of the wild bilberry and the sea buckthorn. The latter is partially restricted today.

The East Frisians made their fruit the traditional way by drying it, preserving it as puree or juice, or steaming it. They also process it into fine schnapps. Popular dishes based on fruit are Rhabarbergrütt (rhubarb porridge), Krüüsbejenmarmelaad (gooseberry compote) and Rode Grütt (red fruit jelly).

loaf

East Frisian bread specialties: Swartbrot , Krintstut , Stut .
Oven (left) and cooking house of a farm workers' house from the 19th century in the
Moordorf Moor Museum

On working days, people ate and eats East Frisian black bread , which has been produced in the same consistency for many centuries. Traditionally, it was baked once a month in ovens that were bricked up outside the house and heated with peat. The baking time was up to 24 hours in the 18th and 19th centuries. While country bakeries had ensured the supply of bread in the marshland since the 16th century, it was common on the Geest until the 20th century to bake it yourself.

Black bread did not have a good reputation with foreign guests, such as the Dutch scholar Justus Lipsius . When he was a guest in Emden at the end of the 16th century, he wrote to a friend:

“And if it had been bread! But really, my dear Heurnius, if you had seen the color, the heaviness, the whole texture, I swear to you that you would have sworn perjury over the bread . You would have sworn it wasn't bread. It was black, hard to digest, sour, and shaped into a dough nearly four feet long that I couldn't even lift up. It occurred to me that Pliny, who writes about this people: "Pity the people who burn their own earth!" I would like to say more true to the truth: "Pity the people that their earth is perpetuating". "

- Justus Lipsius : Quoted from: Hanne Klöver: Ostfriesland cooks: Van Pottjekiekers un Pottjeslikkers. Soltau Kurier publishing house. Norden 2008, ISBN 3-928327-53-4 , p. 129.

Black bread consists of rye meal and wheat flour, is baked by various bakers according to house recipes in stone ovens and is considered very healthy.

Another bread specialty is mares . The name is a word translated from Low German for a fine white bread, which in East Friesland is also often baked with raisins or currants and then served as a crustacean . In the past, white bread was only available on high public holidays, the so-called mare days .

Desserts and cakes

Flour pütt with vanilla sauce.
Rice with raisins, melted butter, cinnamon and sugar.

Desserts only came into fashion from the end of the 19th century. Initially, egg cakes and warm puddings found their way into food culture. Pickled fruits such as plums, pears, strawberries and apples were and are also popular. Cakes, pies and the like, on the other hand, were largely unknown in the country until well into the 20th century. One of the reasons for this was that wheat flour was hard to come by for a long time and was therefore considered a luxury product. Second, there were no ovens in the kitchens. But baked goods could be made over the open hearth, in hot fat or in cake tins that could be placed over the open fire. For example, Mehlpütt that cooked in the steam under the lid of the pot, Bollbeisjes (donuts), which were also baked on an open fire in a cast iron pan with shallow recesses, or Pottstuut (cup cake), which cooked in the scorching heat, or Schwemmertjes (in Harlingerland) Prüllkes ), which have been browned in simmering fat. The shared bread ovens were usually only started up once a month. After the bread was completely baked, the residual heat was used, if at all, to make sheet cakes.

For tea we often eat while today like crumpets. This is a classic sheet cake made from yeast dough with a layer of butter and sugar, which is traditionally topped with roasted almonds or chopped nuts. It is the East Frisian variant of the butter or sugar cake common elsewhere . It is served at many family celebrations such as christenings or funerals, which is why it is also known as the joys and sorrows cake or funeral cake.

Sweet dishes that are popular regionally in East Friesland are also Dickmelk (thick milk), which has been known since the 17th century , Riesbree with Sinbohntjes (rice pudding with raisins) and Mehlpütt , a dumpling.

The East Frisian cake with raisins in brandy developed from the Frisian cake is of more recent origin . When her inventor the Bedekasplerin Tini Peters which the dessert in 1982 in their cafe applies Sömmerköken dishing.

Candies and confectionery

Traditionally, sweets were mainly available for St. Nicholas. Outside the Advent season, there were seldom caramels (caramel candies), Bostkluntjes (brown candy) or Küssentjes (peppermints). For many centuries they were a luxury that few could afford. Natural alternatives to the sweets were Bolten (reed ends ), Hasbrood (grass fruit) or Röven (turnips).

At the court was confection known, however, since at least the 18th century. On the princely table, it was an important design element, especially in the Baroque era with an increasing preference for French gardens in miniature. For example, at the birthday party of Princess Sophie Karoline von Brandenburg-Kulmbach on April 10, 1728, a kind of ornamental garden was built from the desserts in the middle of the table, in the middle of which confectionery was piled into a pyramid on sideboards . The garden was framed in rows of piled bowls on which more confectionery was artfully placed.

A specialty from the port city of the same name are the real Emder. The peppermints have been produced for more than 100 years according to the same recipe without any added color, only with natural ingredients. Most of the production is done by hand. Production began in 1902 when the Emden sugar goods factory established its pharmaceutical department called Opifera on Sleedriverstrasse. Soon the company's products were available all over East Frisia. The company has been producing its real Emder in Leer since 1995 .

Dairy products

Bottermelkbree.

The production of butter and cheese has been known in East Friesland since the Chauken settled at the latest and gained economic importance in the Middle Ages. In the 19th century in particular, large quantities of butter were exported to England, Bremen and Hamburg. In the 1830s the annual production of cheese was about five million pounds, of which about 4.2 million pounds were consumed in East Frisia. Butter production at that time was around £ 2.5 million. Most of the East Frisians made dairy products on their farms. There the house and stables were separated by the Karnhus , in which the milk was processed into butter and cheese. They mainly produced low-fat cheese, while the production of fat cheese remained negligible. Well-known cheeses were the East Frisian herb cheese (a pot cheese), Emder cream cheese, Emder cheese (a kind of Gouda), Kümmelkeeske (a sweet milk cheese mixed with caraway seeds), Kruudkees (a farmer's cheese mixed with cumin and turmeric and sometimes cloves), Leerlapp (a Skimmed cheese), Schaapkekeeske (a soft cheese made from sheep's milk) and Spill and Spittelkäse (fresh skimmed milk quark with caraway seeds). Pottkees , a cheese mass made from cow or sheep's milk that was stored in barrels and made with anise, herbs, salt and caraway seeds, served as a butter substitute for the poorer population . All of them were produced almost exclusively for the domestic market. For the baptism, a special herbal cheese, the Puppkees, spiced with fresh sheep's laurel, was made in some regions (see the section on culinary traditions ). Cheese and butter were also made from the milk of sheep and goats, which were considered the little man's cow . And a large part of the population was poorer. In figures this means that around 1780 in East Frisia just as many sheep were kept as cows. At that time there were 40,000 of each species.

Although the districts of Aurich and Leer are now among the twelve largest milk producer districts in Germany, there is only one larger dairy in East Friesland, the Rücker company in Aurich. Rücker processes the milk of 1200 North German farmers into 80,000 tons of cheese, 20,000 tons of butter and 20,000 tons of milk powder and exports these products to more than 60 countries. Next to her there is only the small Friesenmilch dairy in Detern. However, neither of them produce East Frisian cheeses. The main product of the Friesenmilch dairy is Karnmelksbreei , also called Bottermelkbreei (buttermilk pulp). In the Rheiderland, on the other hand, Keeske (a cream cheese) and butter for personal use are still produced on some farms . There are now some goat and sheep dairies again.

A milk stall on Borkum.
Curd milk with applesauce.

Popular dishes made from milk today are still the Karnmelksbreei , also called Bottermelkbreei (buttermilk porridge ) and Pirrel in d 'Pütt (also Beestmelkmehlpütt ). With the latter, the cow's first milk after calving, the colostrum , which is particularly thick and yellow, is turned into a viscous dough with flour and eggs, which is then poured into a glass. This is placed in a water bath for one and a half to two hours to cook. Dickmelk (thick milk) is also eaten throughout East Friesland . The Borkumer melk budjes milk stalls , which are unique in Germany and have been selling the food directly on the beach since 1906/1907, are well known.

The production of ice cream from egg yolks, cream, sugar and fruits has been known in East Frisia at least since the middle of the 19th century, which makes recipes for vanilla, orange, nut, coffee, apricot, quince, punch and prince Document Pückler ice cream in a cookbook from 1845. Until the introduction of the electric freezer, the East Frisians used natural ice to cool the food, which they collected from ponds and canals in winter and placed in a pit insulated with peat waste and straw.

beverages

tea

East Frisian tea with cream

East Frisia is today a tea drinker country. On average, every East Frisian drank around 300 liters of tea in 2016, which was roughly eleven times the German average. This means that the East Frisians have the world's largest per capita tea consumption. There are still four tea processing companies in the region today. Genuine East Frisian tea is usually a mixture of more than ten different types of tea, with Assams dominating. The mixture has to steep in a preheated pot for at least three, at most five minutes and then makes a very dark, strong tea. This is given in thin-walled cups filled with one or two Kluntje. Then the East Frisians put some cold cream on the edge of the cup. The tea is not stirred. First, the tea drinker tastes the mild cream, then the tart tea and finally the sweet Kluntje.

spirits

East Frisian spirits.

Excessive alcohol consumption has long been a major problem in the region. Especially since the schnapps distillery spread across the country. The Oostfreeske Branntwien is a mixture similar to the brandy, which has been distilled from grain (mostly rye) and potatoes or beets and enriched with flavor or color since the 16th century, initially in Emden, soon also elsewhere in East Frisia. For a long time, distilling was the most important industry in East Frisia alongside brickworks. Until the 18th century there was no standard for distilling schnapps. The quality and alcohol content fluctuated considerably. The latter, however, was very high almost everywhere as a result of an examination of various spirits samples in the Cloppenburg office. It was almost constantly between 47 and 48 percent. Again and again there were reports of excessive alcohol consumption by the East Frisian population. In 1729 the pastor of Leerhafe even had to face an investigation because of his "excesses and the consumption of brandy in front of the altar". The distilleries nevertheless remained on the road to success. In 1804 there were 215 in all of East Frisia. After that, their number fell sharply. In 1842 there were still 138 distilleries, including a grain distillery. At present, eight relevant specialist companies in East Friesland produce an estimated 200 different types of alcohol, including a 32 percent herbal bitters called Kruiden . A restaurateur from Wiesmoor invented the Friesengeist , which is also known nationwide , in 1961. His descendants sold the trademark rights in 1999 to the spirits manufacturer Behn . A museum is now dedicated to the drink in Wiesmoor.

Ostfriesland's most common schnapps, Doornkaat , has not been produced in the north since 1992, but at Berentzen in Haselünne in Emsland . The production of East Frisian schnapps takes place primarily in factories in Leer (Folts & Speulda) and Friedeburg (Heiko Blume) .

beer

Until the introduction of tea, the East Frisians mainly drank buttermilk and beer. The art of beer production has long been known in East Frisia. The consumption of wine and beer is already mentioned in the records of the Werden monastery from the 9th century. Previously, mead was the main drink that was drunk. As can be seen from a document from the 12th century issued in the Reepsholt Monastery, mead played an important role as a festival drink alongside beer, especially on public holidays.

For brewing, the East Frisians mainly used the oats and barley grown in the marshland, and more rarely rye. Gagel, an aromatic shrub on the edges of the moor, was used as the wort. This has probably been done since the 9th or beginning of the 10th century, as indicated by archaeological investigations of the Late Bronze Age, Elder Iron Age settlement of Alte Boomborg near Hatzum. Gagel beer was the main brewery product in East Friesland until the 17th century, before it was replaced by the much more durable and transportable hop beer. Since the reign of Countess Anna, the Count's and Princely House guaranteed the poorer sections of the population that a cheap beer was always available. This was first imported from Bremen (such an import is first mentioned around 1272), then imported from Hamburg, before local breweries also produced it in East Frisia from the 18th century.

East Frisia traditionally had many breweries, which mostly produced beers of various qualities as ancillary business. For example, there was a Flindrichs beer and a sheep beer. The hops, which have been needed for beer production since the 18th century, had to be imported because they did not thrive in the region. It was traded in markets such as Oldersum. Around 1848 there were 183 breweries in East Friesland and Papenburg, 25 of which were based in cities and 158 in the countryside. Most were run by innkeepers. They made thin beer and strong full beer as well as brown beer from barley. Today there are only very few breweries left or were newly founded as country breweries that mostly only produce beer in small quantities, for example in Bagband and Werdum. Until well into the 19th century, beer was “less of a pleasure than a food”. As liquid bread, it supplied important calories, especially before the introduction of the potato, and was therefore an important ingredient in nutritious soups. A family of six drank around 2000 liters of beer a year, while mowers and sifters at work drank around five liters per person a day. It was also used to prepare beer soup, warm beer with honey, egg beer and ginger beer.

Culinary customs

The most well-known culinary tradition beyond the borders of the region is the East Frisian tea culture . It is maintained at any time of the day. Elführerje is particularly popular . The East Frisians prepare their favorite drink at 11 a.m. and read the daily newspaper. Traditionally, three cups of tea are drunk before the society, which mostly consists of family, friends or neighbors, dissolves again.

In the résumé

Sinnbohntjesopp .

There are special culinary customs in East Friesland for the beginning and the end of life. After the birth of their offspring, the East Frisians invite their neighbors, friends, acquaintances and relatives to Puppvisiet ( Pupp (from Pupua = doll / girl) the East Frisians call the baby and Visiet stands for visit) so that they can take a look at the child . In addition, the parents serve a drink to toast the baby's happiness. This drink, known as Kinnertöön or Sinnbohntjesopp , is made by the parents a few weeks before the birth. To do this, they put raisins and Kluntje ( rock candy) in an earthenware jug called a Püllpott in Ostfreeske Brannwien (see section Drinks). Until the middle of the 20th century, the Kinnertöön was passed around to all guests from a special brandy bowl , the Branntwienkoppje with a baptismal spoon. The woman who had recently given birth also received a spoonful of the drink so that she could get a different taste and sleep better; yes, the infant may even have some sugar brandy rubbed on the lips. This is no longer common today. In addition, the drink is now served in glasses. Nowadays it is also served at topping-out ceremonies, weddings and other celebrations or can be found on ice cream cups and in cakes. For baptism it was customary in some places to make a special herbal cheese, the Puppkees . This was put on the table to celebrate the day and the company used it until only one piece was left. In this each put a piece of a coin as a tip for the midwife.

If an East Frisian dies in his own house, he is laid out in the apartment for three days. In some regions of East Friesland it is customary to drink tea from an open coffin in order to pay final respects to the dead. The tea table is the East Frisian equivalent of the funeral feast customary elsewhere and has an important position in the funeral ritual. The women from the neighborhood traditionally prepare the tea table in the mourning house (nowadays mostly in the parish hall of the church or an inn). After the funeral, they serve tea to the mourners and, since the 1950s, tea cakes (see section on desserts). Until the 20th century it was also common to serve dodenberries or comfort berries . It's a warm beer with pieces of bread floating in it. In some places, at the end of the one to two hour tea table, a last schnapps is drunk or the last cigarette is smoked in honor of the dead.

In the course of the year

Oatkookjes.
Fat thickness.
Peppers.

Until the 1960s, many East Frisians kept at least one pig for self-sufficiency with meat. House slaughter by private individuals for their own use therefore has a long tradition. They take place even more frequently in the country, but are just as much a part of maintaining tradition as it is to supply. The animals are fattened in summer and slaughtered in winter from November to February 2, then cut up and processed by the whole family into sausage, ham and other specialties. The highlight of the Schlachtefest is the final Snirtjebraaessen. This is prepared in the evening from different parts of the freshly slaughtered pig such as shoulder, neck, back, ribs and fillet and consumed with the helpers.

The East Frisian variant of the Schaffermahlzeit is the Schmus (feast, feast) of the Leegemoor Society . He finds an old custom ( na oll Wennst ) annually at Candlemas held on 2 February. Only East Frisian Low German may be spoken. Accordingly, the first part of the meeting is also called the Ofrekens meeting . Only male shareholders ( interested parties ) or their authorized representatives, the Lepel guests (spoon guests), are allowed to participate. Ollst Veert and Jungst Veert chair the meeting. It is drunk with Doornkaat schnapps with Bitter up Leegemoor's Wohlfahrt and smoked from long white clay pipes. A guest of honor is always invited to the cuddle and a speech is also given to the women who are not present ( Proot för de Frolü ). The food is the same every year and traditionally hearty. As a first course, interested parties and Lepel guests are served gray peas with onions and bacon fat, hot mustard, gravy from roast beef and sourdough rolls. The second course consists of roast beef with prunes, beetroot, boiled potatoes and gravy. The third course and dessert are currant rusks, pumpernickel with butter and caraway cheese and Swiss cheese on the table. Red wine is drunk.

The Eiertrullern or Eiertrüllen is a common Easter custom. On Easter Sunday, children (and adults) play egg trullers with the hard-boiled eggs received at Easter on the dike, on the East Frisian Islands in the dunes, or other available elevations (e.g. Plytenberg, Eierberge in Wallinghausen).

On the eve of November 10th, the birthday of the reformer Martin Luther and the calendar day dedicated to Saint Martin, Bishop of Tours (316/17 - 397), children go from house to house with their lanterns or even disguised as night falls and sing Martini songs . As a reward for their singing, they receive sweets. The custom has developed among farm workers, for whom the working season ended on November 10th and who were thus only literally in wages until that day . After that day, they had to rely on bridging the impending emergency. Begging, they sucked from house to house and the well-cared gave them donations of pepper nuts and apples.

A widespread custom in winter are the so-called "cabbage tours" in connection with a kale meal . Families or groups of friends set off on foot with a handcart, with a bicycle with a trailer or even with a trailer and horses or tractors on the way to a destination usually several kilometers away. Plenty of alcohol is served on the way. In addition, East Frisian sports such as throwing tea bags, Boßeln or Bessensmieten (= broom throwing ) are practiced. A hearty kale meal then follows at the destination.

Knobelung in East Frisia.

During Advent, Pepernöten ( Low German : pepper nuts ), a hemispherical pastry with a diameter of up to two centimeters and a firm consistency, and oat cookies (oat cookies) are baked. Christmas traditionally played a subordinate role in East Frisia. Special culinary customs have therefore not emerged. More important was the Nikolausfest, when children received their presents in earlier times. On December 5th, the day before the festival, traditional knots take place in the region. These are offered in bakeries, shops and, since the turn of the millennium, also in supermarkets. The rules are simple: a certain number of players come together and everyone gives their mostly very small stake. If you then get the highest throw with three dice in a leather cup, you win baked goods, sweets, sausages, ham or whole ducks. On the night of December 5th , the Klaasohm distributed moppe , a kind of honey cake, on Borkum .

Mare guy.

The Stutenkerl (also called Klaaskerl ) and the Rieder up de Peerd (= rider on horseback) are typical pastries for St. Nicholas in East Friesland . The mare guy is a yeast dough man whose eyes and buttons are made of raisins. He also carries a porcelain pipe in his mouth. The rider on horseback is made from speculoos dough.

On New Year's Eve , thick bacon is served , especially in southern East Frisia . These are hearty pancakes with baked-in slices of bacon or sausage. They are baked in a pan or a waffle iron. The food is heavy in the stomach, which is why New Year's Eve is also known as Dickebuuksavend (evening of big bellies).

Another pastry traditionally made for New Year's Eve and New Year's Eve are New Year's cakes ( Low German : Rullerkes , Neeijahrskook or Krüllkoken ), which are also called Beck vull Schandaal ( mouth full of noise ) In earlier times they were baked with a tong-shaped cake iron directly over an open fire . There have been electric waffle irons for this purpose since the beginning of the 20th century. They are traditionally artistically engraved on the inside, which is transferred to the New Year's cakes while baking. The cakes are then turned into the typical waffle shape with a glass, a turned wood or simply with your fingers while they are still hot.

Museums and monuments

Old town hall with local history museum and East Frisian tea museum.
The Bünting Tea Museum, opened in 2001 at Brunnenstrasse 33, presents the history of the house and information about tea in its exhibition.
The Doornkaat monument in the north.
The statue of Teelke in Leer.
The statue of old and young fishermen in Neuharlingersiel.

The East Frisian Tea Museum in Norden introduces the history and significance of the East Frisian "national drink". It describes itself as the "first special museum on the cultural history of tea in Europe". The exhibition concept is nationally oriented and shows the production chain from cultivation of the tea plant to harvest and processing to the finished commercial product. Chinese tea china from sunken ships from several centuries is on display in one section. The neighboring house Am Markt 33 , which was built around 1540 , also belongs to the museum . The Oswald von Diepholz collection is located there . With exhibits dating back more than 1000 years, it shows the development of tea equipment and shows the importance of tea for all cultures, periods and areas of life, in particular for the court culture of the 18th and 19th centuries. The tea museum also presents the history of the Norder Doornkaat distillery in its own exhibition . The Friesengeist Museum in Wiesmoor is also dedicated to a spirit.

The history of tea from the 17th century until today is the subject of the Bünting Tea Museum in Leer . It documents the cultivation of the tea in the countries of origin, the manufacturing and processing methods, the testing, mixing and tasting of the hot beverage. It also shows how tea came to East Frisia, what makes a real East Frisian tea and discusses tea smuggling, teenage and East Frisian tea culture.

Bagband has been the headquarters of the Ostfriesen Bräu since 1999 . Since then, the old dairy has housed a historic country brewery with an attached brewery, in which country beer is brewed again according to old tradition.

Fishing, the seafaring and the living culture of the islanders are the focus of the collection of the fisherman's house Norderney, which opened in 1937.

Utensils from the old Greve and Leferink bakeries are the basis of the Vom Brot zum Korn museum in Mitling-Mark , which shows the history of the bakery industry in East Friesland.

The East Frisian State Museum in Emden shows the cultural history of East Frisia from the settlement to the present day in its permanent exhibition. The port city is also home to the herring logger AE 7-Stadt Emden , built in 1908 at a shipyard in Scheveningen / NL , which is considered a floating testimony to the former Emden herring fishery . A permanent exhibition on the history of the Emden herring fishery can be seen in the former hold.

The development of living and kitchen culture is also shown in various city, village and local museums that can be found in many places in East Frisia. Sometimes bread is baked there with historical equipment and according to old recipes, for example in the Wiesmoor Peat and Settlement Museum.

Immediately at the entrance to the pedestrian zone from the north, a six-meter-high statue in the form of a schnapps bottle reminds of the long time during which the Doornkaat company produced the wheat grain of the same name in the city. The statue of Teelke was erected in Leer to commemorate the East Frisian tea culture . The bronze sculpture depicts a young woman who carries the utensils of the Teetied - teacup and teapot - in her hands. The statue was donated by the Bünting tea trading company based in Leer . It is not far from the company's headquarters. It was created in 1991 by the artist Karl-Ludwig Böke from Leer . The name of the statue is not an artificial creation from the word "tea", but a common name of East Frisian origin . Another work by Böke is the statue of Jantje Vis set up in Emden . The girl with the fish basket has been pointing out the earlier importance of herring fishing for the city of Emden since 1986. In Neuharlingersiel, the bronze figures of an old and a young fisherman are supposed to "document the value of the fisherman and the profession supported by the family businesses". In Ditzum an der Ems, right by the harbor on Sielstrasse, there is a statue of Tant 'Dientje created by Uwe Hantke to commemorate the mudflat fishing in Dollart, which is mainly carried out by women. Until the middle of the 20th century, women carried the fish caught there with fishing techniques such as buttpeddening or butt-grabbing with carrying yokes and baskets as far as the sales points in the city and in the country. Since 1999, the group of figures created by Albert Bocklage from Vechta has been a reminder of the long tradition of East Frisian sheep husbandry and trade with sheep on the market in Wittmund.

literature

Cookbooks

Cookbooks from East Frisia.

The handwritten cookbook for Johanne Kempe, Pewsum May 1839 , kept in the landscape library in Aurich and transferred to a school exercise book, is considered to be the oldest surviving and known manuscript of this type in the northwest. The library's holdings also contain the work of an anonymous author who, with the title Latest East Frisian Cookbook, attempted to sell his work in East Frisia in 1818. It has no particular references to the region and was probably marketed under the title Latest Bremisches Kochbuch . Completely different The Wangeroog kitchen by Bernhardine Westing. The first edition published in 1849 (2nd edition 1857) contains many regional soup recipes.

In the meantime, East Frisian recipe collections are enjoying increasing popularity: From 1999 to 2015, "at least 15 new East Frisian cookbooks were published that focus on typical and traditional regional cuisine from the Northwest of Germany."

In addition to the recipes, many current cookbooks contain essays on the history of East Frisian cuisine. Hanne Klöver's Ostfriesland kocht work should be mentioned here : Van Pottjekiekers un Pottjeslikkers , which is considered a standard work, as well as grandmother's Frisian country kitchen: 71 traditional recipes newly discovered by Christa Spitzer.

  • Annelene von der Haar: The cookbook from East Friesland. 160 p. Münster 2007, ISBN 3-88117-002-2 .
  • Nikolaus Hippen, Veronika Nölle: Landscape Cookbook Ostfriesland: Of delicious garden fruits, all kinds of animals and masters of good taste. 142 S. Oldenburg 2013, ISBN 3-89995-983-3 .
  • Anna-Sophie Inden (author), Barbara Inden: Ostfriesland tellerfein. Norden 2015, ISBN 3-944841-20-4 .
  • Hanne Klöver: Tea in East Frisia. 96 p. Barßel ​​2008, ISBN 3-9812557-0-4 .
  • Hanne Klöver: Ostfriesland cooks: Van Pottjekiekers un Pottjeslikkers. Soltau Kurier publishing house. Norden 2008 ISBN 3-928327-53-4 .
  • Tini Peters: My traditional East Frisian cuisine: tea, baking and cooking recipes from the “Sömmerköken”. 156 S. Aurich 2013, ISBN 3-9815519-0-7 .
  • Tini Peters: My baking book: Favorite recipes & stories. 186 S. Aurich 2014, ISBN 3-9815519-1-5 .
  • Christa Spitzer: Grandmother's Frisian country kitchen: 71 traditional recipes rediscovered. Neustadt an der Weinstrasse 2005, ISBN 3-86528-232-6 .

Further literature

Folklore research into East Frisian cuisine began in the 17th century with Balthasar Arend's description of the Harlingerland region in 1684 . This is followed by Fridrich Arends, who in 1820 published his work Ostfriesland und Jever in geographical, statistical and especially agricultural terms . Other important historical sources are the essay Ostfriesische Küche by Gr. Piepersberg, which he published in 1916 in the Upstalsboom sheets for East Frisian history and local history (published by the Society for Fine Arts and patriotic antiquities in Emden. Sixth year. Emden June 1916, page 23 (OL Aurich X 829 4. – 6. Jg.)) Published the handwritten manuscript written by Georg Blikslager in 1918 with the title East Frisian Food and Drinks. A contribution to the folklore of the East Frisian dining table. From the East Frisian Volksmunde collected in the years 1910 to 1918 , Wiard Habbo Lübkes Ostfriesische Volkskunde. With 156 illustrations and 136 original photos as well as the 1928 in East Freesland. A calendar for everyone published essay On Eating and Drinking. A nutritious chat from Georg Blikslager , who also came from Blikslager. Among the more recent literature it should be emphasized:

  • Ingrid Buck: Folklore and customs in East Frisia . Schuster Verlag, Leer 1986, ISBN 3-7963-0237-8 .
  • Harm Ehmen: Manners and Customs in East Frisia. In: Karl-Ernst Behre, Hajo van Lengen (Ed.): Ostfriesland. History and shape of a cultural landscape. Aurich 1995, pp. 329-340.
  • Johann Haddinga : The book of East Frisian tea . Verlag Schuster, Leer 1977, ISBN 3-7963-0116-9 .
  • Hedwig Hangen: Eating and drinking. In: Communications of the working group Folklore and Customs of the East Frisian Landscape. Special issue 1, Aurich 1976, without ISBN
  • Hermann Kaiser: The “cover book” of a family of agricultural workers from East Friesland around 1890: Eating and drinking, parties and celebrations . In: Helmut Ottenjann, Günter Wiegelman (Hrsg.): Old diaries and cover books. Sources on the everyday life of the rural population in northwestern Europe . F. Coppenrath Verlag, Münster 1982, ISBN 3-88547-178-7 ( lwl.org [PDF]).
  • Gerhard D. Ohlig: The framework of culture. III. Food and drink. In: Entwässerungsverband Emden, Jannes Ohling, Gerhard Steffens (Ed.): The eight and their seven sluices. Cultural, water and agricultural development of an East Frisian coastal landscape. 2nd expanded edition. Leer 1987, pp. 182-196.
  • East Frisian landscape: fashions and manners. East Frisia customs, traditions and peculiarities. East Frisian Landscape, Aurich 2012, without ISBN.

Web links

Commons : Ostfriesische Küche  - Collection of pictures, videos and audio files

Individual evidence

  1. ^ Cirk Heinrich Stürenburg: East Frisian Dictionary. Aurich 1857, p. 197.
  2. a b Gerhard D. Ohlig: The framework of culture. III. Food and drink. S. 183. In: Dewatering Association Emden, Jannes Ohling, Gerhard Steffens (Ed.): The eight and their seven sluices. Cultural, water and agricultural development of an East Frisian coastal landscape. 2nd expanded edition. Leer 1987, pp. 182-196.
  3. ^ Süddeutsche Zeitung : Eating & Drinking Ostfriesland. Pee and garnet . Retrieved December 14, 2015.
  4. Hanne Klöver: Ostfriesland cooks: Van Pottjekiekers un Pottjeslikkers. Soltau Kurier publishing house. Norden 2008 ISBN 3-928327-53-4 , p. 10
  5. ^ Hanne Klöver: Kitchen stories from East Friesland (1/4). Slaughter Festival and Snirrtjebraa . On: 3sat.de. Retrieved November 30, 2015.
  6. A pastry made from boiled syrup and rye flour. See Hanne Klöver: Ostfriesland cooks: Van Pottjekiekers un Pottjeslikkers. Soltau Kurier publishing house. Norden 2008 ISBN 3-928327-53-4 , p. 151
  7. A buckwheat pancake with bacon. See: Sven Bremer: DuMont Bildatlas Ostfriesland Oldenburger Land. Ostfildern 2015. EAN 9783770198573. P. 113.
  8. a pulpy dish made from colostrum (this is the particularly nutritious milk that the cow gives in the first days after giving birth to a calf), normal milk and flour, which is traditionally filled in a linen bag (pütt) and cooked in a water bath has been. See specialties from Lower Saxony: Pirrel in de Pütt . Retrieved December 14, 2015.
  9. A dish made from cured sausages, ribs and pork knuckle. See Hanne Klöver: Ostfriesland cooks: Van Pottjekiekers un Pottjeslikkers. Soltau Kurier publishing house. Norden 2008 ISBN 3-928327-53-4 , p. 32
  10. An easy to prepare porridge made from milk as well as buckwheat, wheat flour or semolina. See Hanne Klöver: Ostfriesland cooks: Van Pottjekiekers un Pottjeslikkers. Soltau Kurier publishing house. Norden 2008 ISBN 3-928327-53-4 , p. 68
  11. A dish made from pears, beans and bacon. See Hanne Klöver: Ostfriesland cooks: Van Pottjekiekers un Pottjeslikkers. Soltau Kurier publishing house. Norden 2008 ISBN 3-928327-53-4 , p. 85
  12. ^ Paul Weßels : Book of the month of the landscape library: New Ostfriesisches Kochbuch . Retrieved December 30, 2015.
  13. ^ Wolfgang Schwarz: Die Urgeschichte in Ostfriesland , Leer 1995, ISBN 3-7963-0323-4 , p. 20.
  14. ^ Wolfgang Schwarz: Die Urgeschichte in Ostfriesland , Leer 1995, ISBN 3-7963-0323-4 , p. 23.
  15. ^ Wolfgang Schwarz: Die Urgeschichte in Ostfriesland , Leer 1995, ISBN 3-7963-0323-4 , p. 34.
  16. ^ Wolfgang Schwarz: Die Urgeschichte in Ostfriesland , Leer 1995, ISBN 3-7963-0323-4 , pp. 35/36.
  17. Jan Kegler: The Stone Age Man . Aurich 2014. Retrieved December 2, 2015.
  18. Wolfgang Schwarz: Die Urgeschichte in Ostfriesland , Leer 1995, ISBN 3-7963-0323-4 , p. 40.
  19. a b Wolfgang Schwarz: Die Urgeschichte in Ostfriesland , Leer 1995, ISBN 3-7963-0323-4 , p. 76.
  20. ^ Karl-Ernst Behre: Ostfriesland - The history of its landscape and its settlement. Brune-Mettcker Druck- und Verlags-GmbH, Wilhelmshaven 2014, ISBN 978-3-941929-09-8 , p. 73
  21. ^ A b c Karl-Ernst Behre: The emergence of the natural and cultural landscape of the East Frisian peninsula. In: Karl-Ernst Behre and Hajo van Lengen (eds.): Ostfriesland. History and shape of a cultural landscape. Aurich 1995, pp. 5-38. Here p. 23.
  22. ^ Wolfgang Schwarz: Die Urgeschichte in Ostfriesland , Leer 1995, ISBN 3-7963-0323-4 , p. 123.
  23. ^ Wolfgang Schwarz: Die Urgeschichte in Ostfriesland , Leer 1995, ISBN 3-7963-0323-4 , p. 122.
  24. Wolfgang Schwarz: Older and Middle Bronze Age in: Rolf Bärenfänger : Guide to archaeological monuments in Germany, Vol. 35 Ostfriesland , Stuttgart 1999, ISBN 3-8062-1415-8 , pp. 54-62. Here p. 62.
  25. Wolfgang Schwarz: Die Urgeschichte in Ostfriesland , Leer 1995, ISBN 3-7963-0323-4 , p. 158 ff.
  26. Wolfgang Schwarz: Die Urgeschichte in Ostfriesland , Leer 1995, ISBN 3-7963-0323-4 , p. 161 ff.
  27. Beatrix Günnewig: The image of the Germans and Britannians: Investigations into the view of foreign peoples in ancient literature and modern scientific research. Frankfurt / M., Berlin, Bern, New York, Paris, Vienna, 1998, ISBN 978-3-631-33614-4 , p. 134.
  28. ^ Konrad Kretschmer: Historical geography of Central Europe. P. 154
  29. Bernd Rieken: The North Sea is Murder Sea. P. 117.
  30. Herbert Jankuhn , Heinrich Beck et al. (Ed.): Reallexikon der Germanischen Altertumskunde . 35 volumes (1973-2007). tape 7 . de Gruyter, Berlin / New York, ISBN 3-11-016227-X , p. 580 (as well as 2 register volumes, published 2008).
  31. ^ A b Karl-Ernst Behre: Ostfriesland - The history of its landscape and its settlement. Brune-Mettcker Druck- und Verlags-GmbH, Wilhelmshaven 2014, ISBN 978-3-941929-09-8 , p. 78ff.
  32. Thomas Schumacher: The Ötzi of Emden . In: taz of January 29, 2015. Retrieved on December 9, 2015.
  33. a b Rolf Bärenfänger: Archaeological evidence of the working and living conditions in medieval East Frisia. P. 42. In: Hajo van Lengen (Ed.): The Frisian freedom of the Middle Ages - life and legend. Verlag Ostfriesische Landschaft 2003, ISBN 3-932206-30-4 , pp. 34–55.
  34. Imke Wemken (Ostfriesland Tourismus GmbH): The milk power. Special exhibition on the history of milk in East Friesland in Leer ( Memento of the original from December 21, 2015 in the Internet Archive ) Info: The archive link was inserted automatically and has not yet been checked. Please check the original and archive link according to the instructions and then remove this notice. . Retrieved December 10, 2015. @1@ 2Template: Webachiv / IABot / www.presse-niedersachsen.de
  35. Drainage Association Emden: The eight and their seven sluices . Cultural, water and agricultural development of an East Frisian coastal landscape. Ed .: Jannes Ohling. Pewsum 1963. p. 188.
  36. Kirsten Hüser: From the home stove . In: Ostfriesische Landschaft, Archäologischer Dienst: Find of the month December 2014. Retrieved on December 9, 2015.
  37. Rolf Bärenfänger: Archaeological evidence of the working and living conditions in medieval East Friesland. P. 47. In: Hajo van Lengen (Ed.): The Frisian freedom of the Middle Ages - life and legend. Verlag Ostfriesische Landschaft 2003, ISBN 3-932206-30-4 , pp. 34–55.
  38. Rolf Bärenfänger: Archaeological evidence of the working and living conditions in medieval East Friesland. P. 51. In: Hajo van Lengen (ed.): The Frisian freedom of the Middle Ages - life and legend. Verlag Ostfriesische Landschaft 2003, ISBN 3-932206-30-4 , pp. 34–55.
  39. Drainage Association Emden: The eight and their seven sluices . Cultural, water and agricultural development of an East Frisian coastal landscape. Ed .: Jannes Ohling. Pewsum 1963. pp. 185 f.
  40. Kirsten Hüser: From the cooking pot of the 13th century! . In: Ostfriesische Landschaft, Archäologischer Dienst: Find of the month December 2014. Retrieved on December 9, 2015.
  41. Drainage Association Emden: The eight and their seven sluices . Cultural, water and agricultural development of an East Frisian coastal landscape. Ed .: Jannes Ohling. Pewsum 1963. , p. 187
  42. Theo Meyer: From chiefs, pirates and whalers: A journey through time through East Friesland's history. Sutton, Erfurt 2014, ISBN 978-3-86680-831-7 , p. 94f.
  43. a b c d Drainage Association Emden: The eight and their seven sluices . Cultural, water and agricultural development of an East Frisian coastal landscape. Ed .: Jannes Ohling. Pewsum 1963. p. 183
  44. In Aurich Castle there were 12 forks, 12 spoons, 23 silver knives and 24 silver forks in 1648/49. Information from: Hanne Klöver: Ostfriesland cooks: Van Pottjekiekers un Pottjeslikkers. Soltau Kurier publishing house. Norden 2008 ISBN 3-928327-53-4 , p. 23
  45. Hanne Klöver: Ostfriesland cooks: Van Pottjekiekers un Pottjeslikkers. Soltau Kurier publishing house. Norden 2008 ISBN 3-928327-53-4 , p. 23
  46. a b Hanne Klöver: Ostfriesland cooks: Van Pottjekiekers un Pottjeslikkers. Soltau Kurier publishing house. Norden 2008 ISBN 3-928327-53-4 , p. 17
  47. Hanne Klöver: Ostfriesland cooks: Van Pottjekiekers un Pottjeslikkers. Soltau Kurier publishing house. Norden 2008 ISBN 3-928327-53-4 , p. 18
  48. Hanne Klöver: Ostfriesland cooks: Van Pottjekiekers un Pottjeslikkers. Soltau Kurier publishing house. Norden 2008 ISBN 3-928327-53-4 , p. 129
  49. Drainage Association Emden: The eight and their seven sluices . Cultural, water and agricultural development of an East Frisian coastal landscape. Ed .: Jannes Ohling. Pewsum 1963. pp. 190 f.
  50. Johann Haddinga : The book of the East Frisian tea. Verlag Schuster, Leer, 1977, ISBN 3-7963-0116-9 , pp. 21-24.
  51. a b Drainage Association Emden: The eight and their seven sluices . Cultural, water and agricultural development of an East Frisian coastal landscape. Ed .: Jannes Ohling. Pewsum 1963. p. 194.
  52. Onno Klopp: Geschichte Ostfriesland Volume 2, From 1570 to 1751. Unchanged reprint of the edition from 1856 Sendet Niederwalluf near Wiesbaden 1971, p. 606.
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  133. Leer is in eighth place with 384,000 tons (survey year: 2006), Aurich in eleventh with 335,000 tons. For comparison: the three highest values ​​were determined in the district of Cuxhaven (564,000 tons), in the district of Unterallgäu (451,000 tons) and in the district of Schleswig-Flensburg (448,000 tons). Source: Lower Saxony State Office for Statistics, quoted in: Ostfriesischer Kurier, August 14, 2008, p. 12.
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  175. North Tea Museum
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  185. ↑ The illustration and the transcription of the inscription can be found on: René & Peter van der Krogt: Tant 'Dientje . Retrieved December 29, 2015.
  186. Illustration and transcription of the inscription can be found on: René & Peter van der Krogt: Drivers with sheep . Retrieved December 29, 2015.
  187. a b Paul Wessels: Book of the Month of the landscape library Aurich: "Latest East Frisian cookbook" Bremen 1818 . Retrieved December 30, 2015.
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  189. ^ Ostfriesland Tourismus GmbH: Culinary corner. Book tips . Retrieved December 29, 2015.
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