Tofana di Mezzo
| Tofana di Mezzo | ||
|---|---|---|
 Summit construction of the Tofana di Mezzo |
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| height | 3244 m slm | |
| location | Belluno , Italy | |
| Mountains | Tofane , Dolomites | |
| Dominance | 18.8 km → Antelao | |
| Notch height | 1369 m ↓ Falzarego Pass | |
| Coordinates | 46 ° 33 '4 " N , 12 ° 3' 56" E | |
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| rock | Main dolomite | |
| Age of the rock | Upper Triassic | |
| First ascent | Paul Grohmann and Francesco Lacedelli on August 29, 1863 | |
| Normal way | easy from Rifugio Cima Tofana ( cable car mountain station) | |
| particularities | highest peak of the Tofane | |
The Tofana di Mezzo (German Mittlere Tofana , also Tofana II ) is a 3244 m slm high mountain in the Dolomites in the Italian province of Belluno . It forms the highest elevation of the three-peaked Tofane and in the immediate vicinity of the Olympic city of Cortina d'Ampezzo .
Location and surroundings
The Tofana di Mezzo is the middle and highest peak of the Tofane. Starting from Tofana di Rozes to the south-west, it is the second peak, which is why the name Tofana II has become established. The Tofana di Mezzo separates the Forcella Fontananegra ( 2561 m ) with the Rifugio Giussani and the no longer managed Rifugio Cantore from this mighty giant rock . To the north the ridge continues to the Tofana di Dentro , to the south over the Bus de Tofana , one of the largest rock windows in the Alps, towards Rifugio Pomedes . In between lie the mighty falls to the east. The mountain station of the Freccia nel cielo cable car with the Rifugio Cima Tofana is 50 meters below the summit .
Alpinism
The Tofana di Mezzo is one of the first large peaks in the Dolomites to be climbed. On August 29, 1863, Paul Grohmann and the local Francesco Lacedelli climbed the top of the highest Tofana. For one of his first ventures, Grohmann had planned to climb the highest of the three peaks and, ignorant of the height, made the right decision. “Chéco” Lacedelli (1796–1886), one of the wealthier farmers of Cortina, tried his hand at mountain guides for the first time, despite his advanced age . It was to be his first in a series of joint first ascents with Grohmann. The two reached the summit from the south via a route that was rejected a little later as a "difficult and bad detour". Grohmann was impressed by the panoramic view: "The summit offers space for a number of people and shows a wonderful panorama."
The southeast ridge ( III ) was first descended in 1896 by the British JS Macintosh and A. Heywood with A. Zangiacomi and G. Menardi. It was not until 1912 that the brothers Kurt and Ernst Kiene with Karl Lömpel and G. Haupt overcame the ridge in the ascent. The routes through the east wall were gradually opened up in the 20th century, including Via Dibona ( VI ) , which was opened in 1966 by Ivano Dibona .
During the First World War , both the Tofana II and the Tofana III were occupied by the Italian Alpini in the course of the First Dolomite Offensive .
On December 21, 1993, extreme skier Toni Valeruz made the first descent over the southeast face.
Ascent
Today the Tofana di Mezzo is one of the most popular three-thousand-meter peaks in the Dolomites. The reason for this is the easy accessibility from the Rifugio Cima Tofana at the cable car mountain station. The Freccia nel cielo ( sky arrow ) cable car has been leading to the summit since 1971 and is the second highest in the Dolomites after the one to Punta Rocca .
Several challenging via ferratas converge on the southeast ridge .
- The via ferrata Punta Anna ( difficulty C / D ) begins at the Rifugio Pomedes ( 2303 m ) and leads over the south ridge to the Punta Anna ( 2731 m ). This point can also be easily reached from the Rifugio Giussani ( 2580 m ) or from the Rifugio Ra Valles ( 2470 m ) at the cable car middle station.
- The Via ferrata Giuseppe Olivieri ( C / D ) built in 1957 then leads to the summit. After an easy start and walking area, you reach the foot of the Torre Aglio , which you can either cross on the Via ferrata Gianni Aglio ( D ) or bypass on the east side. Then you come to the rock window Bus de Tofana . Under normal conditions there is the possibility of a descent, both to the Rifugio Giussani and the Rifugio Ra Valles. The path continues over well-stepped rock to the Tofana di Mezzo.
- Since 2015, the summit can be climbed from the bus using a new avalanche-protected via ferrata variant.
- Furthermore, the middle Tofana can be reached from the Tofana di Dentro via the moderately difficult Via ferrata Lamon ( B ).
In particular, the Via ferrata Giuseppe Olivieri and the Via ferrata Gianni Aglio are very exposed in places and, in addition to arm strength, require stamina and appropriate climbing experience. The "old normal ascent" leads comparatively easily from Rifugio Giussani on the southwest side into the gap between Tofana di Dentro and Tofana di Mezzo.
Web links
- Tofana Cortina - Official Website
- Via ferrata Giuseppe Olivieri and Gianni Aglio at Bergstieg.com
- Tofana di Mezzo at 3000 delle Dolomiti (Italian)
Individual evidence
- ^ Paul Grohmann : Hikes in the Dolomites. Verlag von Carl Gerold's Sohn , Vienna 1877, pp. 95–98. [1]
- ↑ a b Richard Goedeke & Hans Kammerer : 3000er der Dolomiten. The normal ways. J. Berg Verlag , Munich 1993, p. 126 ff. ISBN 978-3-7079-0606-6 .
- ↑ La storia è finita. Planetmountain.com, accessed June 23, 2016 (Italian).
- ↑ Via Dibona alla Tofana di Mezzo. Sergio Ramella, accessed June 23, 2016 (Italian).
- ↑ Stefano Zardini: Toni Valeruz, un inverno di grande sci. ALP No. 109, May 1994, p. 21. (Italian)
- ↑ a b Horst Höfler & Paul Werner: Via ferrata in the Dolomites. With the Vicentine Alps, Brenta and Lake Garda mountains. Bergverlag Rother , Munich 2000, pp. 112-113. ISBN 3-7633-3096-8 .
- ↑ New via ferrata on the Tofana di Mezzo. alpin.de, accessed on June 24, 2016 .