Toni Valeruz

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Tone Valeruz , better known as Toni Valeruz (born January 28, 1951 in Alba , Italy ) is an Italian mountaineer , extreme skier and mountain guide . With over 50 first runs inside and outside the Alps , he is one of the most important steep-face skiers of his generation.

Life

The Matterhorn -Ostwand sailed Valeruz three times: twice in 1975 and once in 1996
In 1993, Valeruz only needed three minutes for the descent through the north face of the Lyskamm .

In order to get a change from skiing on the slopes , Toni Valeruz made his first turns in the terrain early on. On the Marmolada, he perfected his technique for negotiating difficult slopes, which he was able to use for the first time in 1970 in the descent over the north face.

In the 1970s he made headlines with the first ascent of the east face of the Matterhorn , where he started at around 4,200  m above sea level on the Hörnligrat . He also managed the first descent over the northwest face of Gran Vernel in his home town of Canazei .

In 1983 he was the first to climb the northeast face of the Eiger . In the 1990s, he completed the first ascent of the south- east face of the Tofana di Mezzo , the north-east face of the Civetta and the Lyskamm north face, which he mastered in a record time of three minutes.

For many of his descents, Valeruz used a helicopter as an aid to the ascent, a fact that brought him criticism in mountaineering circles. Valeruz, on the other hand, concentrated more on skiing down steep slopes and tried to avoid techniques such as abseiling and climbing as much as possible during his descents. This is how he succeeded in setting new technical standards in steep-wall skiing. At times Valeruz was accused of a certain recklessness. Nevertheless, the tour planning was always conscientious and, in addition to a precise study of the route, included targeted physical training in order to be well prepared for the extreme dangers of this discipline.

During another of his activities, paragliding , a serious accident occurred on August 2, 1988 on the Karer Pass . Valeruz suffered a tailbone and a rib fracture , with the broken rib piercing one of his lungs.

40 years after its first ascent, Valeruz repeated the descent from Gran Vernel in 2013 at the age of 62. It took him about two hours to do this.

Driving on steep walls in the Alps

The list contains a selection of Toni Valeruz's most important journeys in the Alps.

  • Marmolada - North Face (1970)
  • Lyskamm - north face (June 1, 1974) - departure in 13 minutes
  • Matterhorn - east face (May 14, 1975) - descent from the Hörnligrat at around 4200  m . Valeruz repeated this departure on May 26th, 1975 and May 30th, 1996. In 1996 he wore a tuxedo as a gag .
  • Mont Blanc - Grand Couloir de la Brenva (April 28, 1978) - Departure in 35 minutes. The ascent was done by helicopter.
  • Gran-Vernel - Northwest Face (April 10, 1979) - first ascent in 30 minutes. The departure was followed by hundreds of spectators and recorded by Italian radio . The ascent was done by helicopter. He drove the north face on February 23, 1997 at two o'clock in the morning in the light of the full moon. On April 15, 2013, he repeated the climb on his local mountain that had been done 40 years earlier .
  • Ortler - Northwest Face (February 16, 1983)
  • Eiger - northeast face (May 12, 1983) - First descent over the Lauper route
  • Lyskamm north face (July 27, 1986) - Two descents, both times in a time of seven minutes. The ascent was done by helicopter.
  • Cima Tosa - Northern Ice Ridge (January 20, 1993) - Heini Holzer made his first ascent in 1970.
  • Lyskamm North Face (July 29, 1993) - Departure in two minutes and 58 seconds
  • Tofana-di-Mezzo - southeast face (December 21, 1993) - first visit
  • Civetta - Northeast Face (February 11, 1994) - First ascent in three hours and 35 minutes, partly along the Via ferrata degli Alleghesi . The ascent was done by helicopter.
  • Grivola - Northeast Face (June 8, 1995) - The departure took place in 20 minutes and was recorded by Italian radio.

Driving on steep walls outside of Europe

The list contains a selection of Toni Valeruz's most important journeys on other continents.

  • Cerro Don Bosco ( 2515  m ) in Patagonia (January 1980) - After three unsuccessful attempts, Valeruz managed the first ascent of the south face.
  • Alpamayo ( 5947  m ) in Peru (July 1981) - first ascent
  • Makalu ( 8462  m ) in Nepal (1984) - descent from 8100  m
  • Siula Chico ( 6260  m ) in Peru (June 1, 1990) - first ascent

literature

Individual evidence

  1. ↑ a b Francoi Brevini: Marmolada, signora delle nuvole Sulle tracce della Citta di ghiaccio (Italian) , Corriere della Sera . August 15, 2004. Retrieved September 2, 2015. 
  2. ^ A b c Luigi Castellarin: Toni Valeruz in smoking per una discesa "di gala" (Italian) , La Stampa . May 31, 1996. Retrieved December 22, 2015. 
  3. ↑ a b Gigi Mattana: Straordinaria impresa di Tone Valeruz sceso in sci da una parete impossibile (Italian) , La Stampa . April 11, 1979. Retrieved December 22, 2015. 
  4. ↑ a b Gigi Mattana: Valeruz con gli sci giù dall'Eiger (Italian) , La Stampa . May 13, 1983. Retrieved December 22, 2015. 
  5. ↑ a b c d e Stefano Zardini: Toni Valeruz, un inverno di grande sci. ALP No. 109, May 1994, p. 21. (Italian)
  6. ↑ a b Valeruz giù dal Rosa in 3 ' (Italian) , La Stampa . July 30, 1993. Retrieved December 22, 2015. 
  7. ↑ a b Gigi Mattana: In una camera d'ospedale un'altra sfida per Valeruz (Italian) , La Stampa . August 4, 1988. Retrieved December 22, 2015. 
  8. ↑ a b Sci: Valeruz ripete Vernel 40 anni dopo. ansa.it, April 15, 2013, accessed December 22, 2015 . (Italian)
  9. ↑ a b Impresa del re dello sci estremo Toni Valeruz - Dalla north del Lyskamm in soli sette minuti (Italian) , La Stampa . July 28, 1986. Retrieved December 22, 2015. 
  10. ↑ Giorgio Destofanis: Sfida in tuxedo al "muro" Cervino (Italian) , La Stampa . May 31, 1996. Retrieved December 22, 2015. 
  11. ^ Luigi Castellarin: Toni Valeruz rimette gli sci sulla parete Est del Cervino (Italian) , La Stampa . May 30, 1996. Retrieved December 22, 2015. 
  12. ^ François Damilano: Neige, glace et mixte - Tome 2 , p. 203 (see literature)
  13. ↑ Toni Valeruz è sceso con gli sci dalla Est del Bianco in 35 minuti (Italian) , La Stampa . April 29, 1978. Retrieved December 22, 2015. 
  14. ↑ Sci estremo: Nuova Impresa di Valeruz (Italian) , Corriere della Sera . January 21, 1993. Retrieved December 22, 2015. 
  15. ^ Valeruz, re dell'impossibile (Italian) , Corriere della Sera . December 22, 1993. Retrieved December 22, 2015. 
  16. ↑ Valeruz Scende con gli sci dai 3218 metri del Civetta (Italian) , Corriere della Sera . February 13, 1994. Retrieved December 22, 2015. 
  17. ↑ Valeruz Scende sulla Nord-Est della Grivola (Italian) , La Stampa . June 9, 1995. Retrieved December 22, 2015. 
  18. ↑ a b Lorenzo Zampatti: Toni Valeruz, genio e misantropia. Intervista al più attivo sciatore estremo del nostro Paese. ALP No. 71, March 1991, pp. 18-21. (Italian)
  19. ↑ Il fogolar sulla cima del Sarapo (Italian) , La Stampa . July 5, 1981. Retrieved December 22, 2015. 
personal data
SURNAME Valeruz, Toni
ALTERNATIVE NAMES Valeruz, Tone
BRIEF DESCRIPTION Italian mountaineer, extreme skier and mountain guide
DATE OF BIRTH January 28, 1951
PLACE OF BIRTH Alba , Italy