Werner Bittner

Werner "Mack" Bittner (born October 20, 1938 in Meißen ) is a former German mountaineer.

Career

He grew up with five siblings and completed an apprenticeship as a mechanical engineer. In 1957 he began to mountaineering after he had undertaken his first climbing excursions around Meissen with mountaineer Rainer Kauschke during his apprenticeship. He also climbed in the Elbe Sandstone Mountains . On the Stuiben he met the mountaineer Peter Siegert. From then on, Bittner, Kauschke and Siegert often climbed as a three-person rope team.

Bittner moved several times and lived in Stuttgart , Munich and Gohrisch , among others . He pursued various activities and worked in scaffolding and mechanical engineering, as a cameraman and assistant as well as lightning protection fitter. With the latter activity, he started his own business in 1970.

From February 13th to 17th, 1961, he managed the first winter ascent of the Great Zinne north face (route "Hasse-Brandler") with Peter Siegert, Rainer Kauschke and Rolf Jäger. From February 3 to 5, 1962, he and his Saxon comrades made the first winter ascent of the Matterhorn north face (“Schmid” route), which was also the 25th overall ascent . Bittner lost all toes due to frostbite.

From September 1st to 3rd, 1964 he led Daisy Voog, the first woman through the north face of the Eiger (route “Heckmair”, 51st overall ascent).

More tours

• 1960: Punta Penia -Southwest Face (Route "Solda-Conforto")
• 1961: Western pinnacle north face (routes "Cassin" and "Schweizer-Führe")
• 1961: 3rd ascent of the Totenkirchl west wall pillar
• 1962: 1st winter ascent of the Rotwand -Westwand (route "Maestri-Baldessari")
• 1964: 11th ascent of the Oberreintaldom north-west face (route "PS intersection")
• 1964: Rotwand-Südwestwand (route "Hermann-Buhl-Gedächtnisweg")
• 1969: Courtes -North Face
• 1969: Grandes Jorasses north face ("Walkerpfeiler" route)
• 1969: 1st winter inspection of the ornamental chimney of the meat bank east wall
• 1970: 4th ascent of the north face of Oberreintaldom (route "Er-Si-Pu")
• 1970: 9th ascent of the North Face of Droites
• 1971: 1st ascent of the Totenkirchl east face (route "Bittner-Werner")
• 1971: 2nd ascent of the Piz Ciavazes south face (route "Via Albina")
• 1971: Droites north face (route "Axt-Gross-Führe")
• 1972: Droites north face (northeast pillar)
• 1972: Mont Blanc - Central Frêneypsteiler
• 1979: Blaitière -Westwand (route "Brownriss")

Web links

• Personal folder on Werner Bittner (PDF) in the historical Alpine archive of the Alpine clubs in Germany, Austria and South Tyrol (temporarily offline)
• AlpinWiki ( Memento from October 4, 2015 in the Internet Archive )
• Werner Bittner short portrait