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{{otheruses1|the Himalayan mountain}}
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{{Infobox Mountain
{{WikiProject Genetics|nested=yes}}
| Name = K2
{{WikiProject Sociology|nested=yes}}
| Photo = K2-big.jpg
| Caption = K2 in summer: view of the South Face from [[Concordia (Pakistan)|Concordia]]. The upper portion of the Abruzzi Spur is the right skyline.
| Elevation = {{convert|8611|m|ft|0}}<br><small>[[Eight-thousander|Ranked 2nd]] ([[List of mountains in Pakistan|1st in Pakistan]])</small>
| Location = {{flagicon|PAK}} [[Northern Pakistan]]
| Range = [[Karakoram]]
| Prominence = {{convert|4017|m|ft|0|abbr=on}}<small> [[List of peaks by prominence|Ranked 22nd]]</small>
| pushpin_map = China
| pushpin_label_position = right
| pushpin_map_caption = Location on Pakistan/China border
| pushpin_mapsize =
| coordinates_ref=
| latd= 35|latm= 52|lats= 57|latNS=N
| longd= 76|longm= 30|longs= 48|longEW=E
| Coordinates = {{coord|35|52|57|N|76|30|48|E |type:mountain |display=inline,title}} [http://bbs.keyhole.com/ubb/showthreaded.php/Cat/0/Number/420123/an/0/page/0#420123]
| First ascent = July 31, 1954<br>{{flagicon|ITA}} [[Achille Compagnoni]]<br>{{flagicon|ITA}} [[Lino Lacedelli]]
| Easiest route = rock/snow/ice climb
| Listing = [[Eight-thousander]] <br/>[[Seven Second Summits]]<br/>[[Ultra prominent peak|Ultra]]
}}
}}
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{{archive box|[[/Archive 1|July 2003-December 2005]]<br>[[/Archive 2|February-October 2006]] <br />[[Talk:Red hair/Archive 3|Oct 2006-June 2008]]}}
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== Beards ? ==
'''K2''' is the second-[[List of highest mountains|highest]] [[mountain]] on [[Earth]] (after [[Mount Everest]]). With a peak elevation of {{convert|8611|m|ft|0}}, K2 is part of the [[Karakoram]] segment of the [[Himalaya]]n [[mountain range|range]], and is located in the [[Northern Areas]] of [[Pakistan]], on the border<ref name="border_agreement">{{PDFlink|[http://www.law.fsu.edu/library/collection/LimitsinSeas/IBS085.pdf Text of border agreement between China and Pakistan]|253&nbsp;[[Kibibyte|KiB]]<!-- application/pdf, 259705 bytes -->}}</ref> between Pakistan's northern territories,<ref>[http://www.britannica.com/EBchecked/topic-art/312055/69374/K2-in-the-Karakoram-Range-northern-Baltistan-Northern-Areas-Pak K2] – Brittanica.com</ref> and the [[Taxkorgan Tajik Autonomous County]] of [[Xinjiang]], China.<ref name="kashmir">The mountain is located on the western side of the [[Line of Control]] between India and Pakistan</ref> K2 is known as the '''Savage Mountain''' due to the difficulty of ascent and the fact that for every four people who reach the summit, one dies trying. Among the [[Eight-thousander]]s, K2 has the second-highest climbing mortality rate after [[Annapurna]].


I have a red beard and facial hair, but dark hair on my head and the rest of my body. I couldn't find anything in the article which explains what genetically might cause this. --[[User:Demonsforever|Demonsforever]] ([[User talk:Demonsforever|talk]]) 07:16, 9 July 2008 (UTC)
==Name==
[[Image:K2 by Montgomery.jpg|thumb|left|Montgomerie's original sketch in which he applied the notation K2]]
The name K2 is derived from the notation used by the [[Great Trigonometric Survey]]. On 10 September 1856, [[Thomas George Montgomerie|Thomas Montgomerie]] made the first survey of the Karakoram from [[Mount Haramukh]], some 130 miles to the south, and sketched the two most prominent peaks, labelling them K1 and K2.<ref>{{cite book |title=K2: The Story of the Savage Mountain|last=Curran|first=Jim|authorlink=|coauthors=|year=1995 |publisher=Hodder & Stoughton|location= |isbn=978-0340660072|pages=p. 25}}</ref>


It is very common in Turkey what I am origin of. My brother has also brown hair with a red beard, i know at least 4-5 people with brown hair and light colored beards.
The policy of the Great Trigonometric Survey was to use local names for mountains wherever possible<ref>The most obvious exception to this policy was [[Mount Everest]], where the local name Chomolungma was probably known, but ignored in order to pay tribute to [[George Everest]]. See Curran, p. 29-30.</ref> and K1 was found to be known locally as [[Masherbrum]]. K2, however, appeared not to have acquired a local name, possibly due to its remoteness. The mountain is not visible from [[Askole]], the last village to the south, or from the nearest habitation to the north, and is only fleetingly glimpsed from the end of the [[Baltoro Glacier]], beyond which few local people would have ventured. <ref name="Curran30">Curran, p. 30</ref> The name '''Chogori''', derived from two [[Balti language|Balti]] words, ''chhogo'' ('big') and ''ri'' ('mountain') (شاہگوری) has been suggested as a local name, but evidence for its widespread use is scant. It may have been a compound name invented by Western explorers<ref name="carter_1983">[[H. Adams Carter]], "A Note on the Chinese Name for K2, 'Qogir'", ''American Alpine Journal'', 1983, p. 296. Carter, the longtime editor of the ''AAJ'', goes on to say that the name ''Chogori'' "has no local usage. The mountain was not prominently visible from places where local inhabitants ventured and so had no local name.... The Baltis use no other name for the peak than K2, which they pronounce 'Ketu'. I strongly recommend ''against'' the use of the name ''Chogori'' in any of its forms."</ref> or simply a bemused reply to the question "What's that called?"<ref name="Curran30"/> It does, however, form the basis for the name '''Qogir''' ({{zh-stp|s=乔戈里峰|t=喬戈里峰|p=Qiáogēlǐ Fēng}}) by which Chinese authorities officially refer to the peak. Other local names have been suggested including '''Lamba Pahar''' ("Tall Mountain" in Urdu) and '''Dapsang''', but are not widely used.<ref name="Curran30"/>


From Coon (I hate him, btw but no other resources):
Lacking a local name, the name '''Mount Godwin-Austen''' was suggested, in honour of [[Henry Haversham Godwin-Austen|Henry Godwin-Austen]], an early explorer of the area, and while the name was rejected by the [[Royal Geographical Society]]<ref name="Curran30"/> it was used on several maps, and continues to be used occasionally.<ref>[https://www.cia.gov/library/publications/the-world-factbook/geos/pk.html CIA Fact Book, Pakistan]</ref><ref name="carter_godwin_austen">H. Adams Carter, "Balti Place Names in the Karakoram", ''American Alpine Journal'', 1975, p. 52–53. Carter notes that "Godwin Austen is the name of the glacier at its eastern foot and is only incorrectly used on some maps as the name of the mountain."</ref>


The unexposed skin color of the Turks is mostly brunet-white or swarthy (von Luschan #11-16), the head hair color, in 90 per cent of cases, dark brown. Black hair, however, is found in less than 5 per cent, and blondism is rare. The ratio of dark brown hair is constant, except in the eastern provinces, where it is nearly 100 per cent. '''The beard hair is often lighter than the head hair; only 70 per cent are black or dark brown, while reddish shades are found among nearly 10 per cent. Reddish and blondish beards are by far commoner in the western and northern provinces than elsewhere, and are in these places found in one-third of the group observed.'''
The surveyor's mark, K2, therefore continues to be the name by which the mountain is commonly known. It is now also used in the Balti language, rendered as '''Kechu''' or '''Ketu'''<ref name="carter_1983"/><ref name="carter_ketu">Carter, ''op cit''. Carter notes a generalization of the word ''Ketu'': "A new word, ''ketu'', meaning 'big peak', seems to be entering the Balti language."</ref> ({{lang-ur|کے ٹو}}). The Italian climber [[Fosco Maraini]] argued in his account of the ascent of [[Gasherbrum IV]] that while the name of K2 owes its origin to chance, its clipped, impersonal nature is highly appropriate for so remote and challenging a mountain. He concluded that it was...
[[User:Zylan|Zylan]] ([[User talk:Zylan|talk]]) 14:57, 21 July 2008 (UTC)


My fathers facial hair is also orange, but when he still had hair, it was brown. He isn't of Turkish descent, so there must be some other genetic explanation?
<blockquote>"...just the bare bones of a name, all rock and ice and storm and abyss. It makes no attempt to sound human. It is atoms and stars. It has the nakedness of the world before the first man - or of the cindered planet after the last." <ref>{{cite book |title=Karakoram: the ascent of Gasherbrum IV |last=Maraini |first=Fosco |authorlink=Fosco Maraini |coauthors= |year=1961 |publisher=Hutchinson |location= |isbn= |pages= }} Quoted in Curran, p. 31.</ref> </blockquote>
[[User:Littelbro14|Littelbro14]] ([[User talk:Littelbro14|talk]]) 02:29, 5 August 2008 (UTC)


==Maybe?==
==Climbing history==
===Early attempts===
[[Image:K2 West 1909.jpg|thumb|right|The west face of K2 taken from the Savoia Glacier on the 1909 expedition]]
The mountain was first surveyed by a European survey team in 1856. [[Thomas George Montgomerie|Thomas Montgomerie]] was the member of the team who designated it "K2" for being the second peak of the Karakoram range. The other peaks were originally named K1, K3, K4 and K5, but were eventually renamed [[Masherbrum]], [[Broad Peak]], [[Gasherbrum II]] and [[Gasherbrum I]] respectively.


Perhaps including a picture of a certain notable red-haired lead singer from [[Guns 'N' Roses]]? (who ironically is also famous for being hot-tempered.) Only suggesting out of pure curiosity, doesn't mean you have to include it. --[[User:Crackthewhip775|Crackthewhip775]] ([[User talk:Crackthewhip775|talk]]) 21:22, 28 August 2008 (UTC)
In 1892, [[Martin Conway, 1st Baron Conway of Allington|Martin Conway]] led a British expedition that reached 'Concordia' on the [[Baltoro Glacier]].<ref>Charles S. Houston (1953) K2, the Savage Mountain. McGraw-Hill.</ref> The first serious attempt to climb K2 was undertaken in 1902 by [[Oscar Eckenstein]] and [[Aleister Crowley]] via the Northeast Ridge, but after five serious and costly attempts, the team could only reach up to 6525 meters (21,410 feet).<ref>[http://www.k2climb.net/expguide/timeline.htm A timeline of human activity on K2]</ref> The failures are attributed to a combination of questionable physical training, personality conflicts, and poor weather conditions &mdash; of 68 days spent on K2 (at the time, the record for longest time spent at such an altitude) only eight provided clear weather.<ref>{{cite book
| last = Booth | first = Martin | authorlink = Martin Booth
| title=A Magick Life: A Biography of Aleister Crowley | origyear=2000
| format=[[trade paperback]] | edition=Coronet | year=2001
| publisher=Hodder and Stoughton | location=London
| id=ISBN 0-340-71806-4 | pages=152–157 | chapter = Rhythms of Rapture}}</ref>


Someone please do this...it would be cool.
The next expedition to K2 in 1909, led by [[Luigi Amedeo, Duke of the Abruzzi]], reached an elevation of around 6,250 m (20,500 ft) on the South East Spur, now known as the ''Abruzzi Spur'' (or Abruzzi Ridge). This would eventually become part of the standard route, but was abandoned at the time due to its steepness and difficulty. After trying and failing to find a feasible alternative route on the West Ridge or the North East Ridge, the Duke declared that K2 would never be climbed, and the team switched its attention to [[Chogolisa]], where the Duke came within 150 m (500 ft) of the summit before being driven back by a storm.<ref>{{cite book |title=K2: The Story of the Savage Mountain|last=Curran|first=Jim|authorlink=|coauthors=|year=1995 |publisher=Hodder & Stoughton|location= |isbn=978-0340660072|pages=pp.65-72}}</ref>
10/10/2008 <span style="font-size: smaller;" class="autosigned">—Preceding [[Wikipedia:Signatures|unsigned]] comment added by [[Special:Contributions/98.222.99.172|98.222.99.172]] ([[User talk:98.222.99.172|talk]]) 01:34, 12 October 2008 (UTC)</span><!-- Template:UnsignedIP --> <!--Autosigned by SineBot-->


== Wild historical innacuracy ==
[[Image:K2 East Face 1909.jpg|thumb|K2 from the east, photographed during the 1909 expedition]]
The next attempt on K2 was not made until 1938, when an American expedition led by [[Charles Snead Houston|Charles Houston]] made a reconnaissance of the mountain. They concluded that the Abruzzi Spur was the most practical route, and reached a height of around 8000 m (26,250 ft) before turning back due to diminishing supplies and the threat of bad weather.<ref>{{cite book |title=Five Miles High|last=Houston|first=Charles S|authorlink=Charles Snead Houston |coauthors=Bates, Robert |year=1939 |publisher=Dodd, Mead|location= |isbn=978-1585740512|pages= }} Reprinted (2000) by First Lyon Press with introduction by [[Jim Wickwire]]</ref><ref>Curran, pp.73-80</ref> The following year an expedition led by [[Fritz Wiessner]] came within 200 m (650 ft) of the summit, but ended in disaster when four climbers disappeared high on the mountain.<ref>{{cite book |title=K2: The 1939 Tragedy|last=Kaufman|first=Andrew J.|authorlink=|coauthors=Putnam, William L.|year=1992 |publisher=Mountaineers Books|location= |isbn=978-0898863239|pages=}}</ref><ref>Curran pp.81-94</ref>


In the section headed "Modern", there's a statement: "This matches the movement of the Celts and Picts as they were pushed westward and northward in Britain and Ireland during the Roman conquest of Britain, as well as the pattern of Viking settlement in the north of England".
Charles Houston returned to K2 to lead the [[Third American Karakoram Expedition|1953 American expedition]]. The expedition failed due to a storm which pinned the team down for ten days at 7800 m (25,590 ft), during which time [[Art Gilkey]] became critically ill. A desperate retreat followed, during which [[Pete Schoening]] saved almost the entire team during a mass fall, and Gilkey was killed, either in an avalanche or in a deliberate attempt to avoid burdening his companions. In spite of the failure and tragedy, the courage shown by the team has given the expedition iconic status in mountaineering history.<ref>{{cite book |title=K2 - The Savage Mountain|last=Houston|first=Charles S|authorlink=Charles Snead Houston |coauthors=Bates, Robert |year=1954 |publisher=Mc-Graw-Hill Book Company Inc|location= |isbn=978-1585740130|pages= }} Reprinted (2000) by First Lyon Press with introduction by [[Jim Wickwire]]</ref><ref>{{cite book |title=Brotherhood of the Rope - The Biography of Charles Houston|last=McDonald|first=Bernadette|authorlink=|coauthors=|year=2007 |publisher=The Mountaineers Books|location= |isbn=978-0898869422|pages=pp119-140}}</ref><ref>{{cite book |title=K2: The Story of the Savage Mountain|last=Curran|first=Jim|authorlink=|coauthors=|year=1995 |publisher=Hodder & Stoughton|location= |isbn=978-0340660072|pages=pp95-103}}</ref>


The old fashioned view is that the Celts were physically pushed to the North and West by the Anglo-Saxons. It's widely believed now that the Germanic invaders formed a ruling elite while the majority of the population remained genetically similar, and that the displacement was more cultural than genetic. In any case, even if there was a physical displacement it was 500 years after the Roman conquest.
===Success and repeats===
An Italian expedition finally succeeded in ascending to the summit of K2 on July 31, 1954. The expedition was led by [[Ardito Desio]], although the two climbers who actually reached the top were [[Lino Lacedelli]] and [[Achille Compagnoni]]. The team included a Pakistani member, Colonel Muhammad Ata-ullah, who had been a part of the 1953 American expedition. Also on the expedition were the famous Italian climber [[Walter Bonatti]] and Pakistani Hunza porter Mahdi, who proved vital to the expedition's success in that they carried oxygen to {{convert|26600|ft|m}} for Lacedelli and Compagnoni. Their dramatic [[Bivouac shelter|bivouac]] in the open at that altitude wrote another chapter in the saga of Himalayan climbing.


The bit about Viking settlement in the North of England doesn't make sense in context, it should be changed to "Viking settlement in the British Isles".
On August 9, 1977, 23 years after the Italian expedition, [[Ichiro Yoshizawa]] led the second successful ascent to the top; with [[Ashraf Aman]] as the first native Pakistani climber. The Japanese expedition ascended through the Abruzzi Spur route traced by the Italians, and used more than 1,500 porters to achieve the goal.


[[Image:K2 from air.jpg|thumb|The West Face and upper slopes of K2]]
The year 1978 saw the third ascent of K2, via a new route, the long, [[cornice (climbing)|cornice]]d Northeast Ridge. (The top of the route traversed left across the East Face to avoid a vertical [[headwall]] and joined the uppermost part of the Abruzzi route.) This ascent was made by an American team, led by noted mountaineer [[James Whittaker]]; the summit party were [[Louis Reichardt]], [[Jim Wickwire]], [[John Roskelley]], and [[Rick Ridgeway]]. Wickwire endured an overnight [[Bivouac shelter|bivouac]] about 150 m below the summit, one of the highest bivouacs in climbing history. This ascent was emotional for the American team, as they saw themselves as completing a task that had been begun by the 1938 team forty years earlier.<ref name="aaj_1979">''American Alpine Journal'', 1979, pp. 1–18</ref>


I don't have an account, so couldn't change it. <small>—Preceding [[Wikipedia:Signatures|unsigned]] comment added by [[Special:Contributions/58.96.79.149|58.96.79.149]] ([[User talk:58.96.79.149|talk]]) 10:21, 29 August 2008 (UTC)</small><!-- Template:UnsignedIP --> <!--Autosigned by SineBot-->
Another notable Japanese ascent was that of the difficult North Ridge (see route information below), on the Chinese side of the peak, in 1982. A team from the [[Mountaineering Association of Japan]] led by Isao Shinkai and Masatsugo Konishi put three members, Naoe Sakashita, Hiroshi Yoshino, and Yukihiro Yanagisawa, on the summit on August 14. However Yanagisawa fell and died on the descent. Four other members of the team achieved the summit the next day.<ref name="aaj_1983">''American Alpine Journal'', 1983, p. 295</ref>


==WikiProject banner spam==
The first climber to summit K2 twice was a Czech climber Josef Rakoncaj. Rakoncaj was a member of the 1983 Italian expedition led by Francesco Santon, which made the second successful ascent of the North Ridge (July 31 , 1983). Three years later, on July 5, 1986, he summitted on the Abruzzi Spur (double with Broad Peak West Face solo) as a member of Agostino da Polenza's international expedition.
An anonymous editor appears to have dedicated him-/herself to spamming talk pages with long lists of WikiProject banners. This goes against the good advice at [[WP:WikiProject Council/Guide#Article_tagging]] and [[WP:WikiProject Council/Guide/WikiProject#Over-tagging]], which recommends against speculatively spamming a long list of tangentially related WikiProjects to an article.


The editor often adds empty {{tl|todo}} lists and usually {{tl|talkheader}}, even to empty talk pages, which also violates the instructions for their use.
===Recent attempts===
The peak has now been climbed by almost all of its ridges. Although the [[Summit (topography)|summit]] of [[Mount Everest|Everest]] is at a higher [[altitude]], K2 is a much more difficult and dangerous climb, due in part to its terrible weather and comparatively greater height above surrounding terrain. The mountain is believed by many to be the world's most difficult and dangerous climb, hence its nickname "the Savage Mountain." As of August 2008, only 305 people have completed the ascent,<ref>{{cite web|url=http://www.viewfinderpanoramas.org/climbers.html|title=Climber Lists: Everest, K2 and other 8000ers}}</ref> compared with about 2,600 individuals who have ascended the more popular target of Everest. At least 76 people have died attempting the climb. Notably, 13 climbers from several expeditions died in 1986 in the [[Alan Rouse#1986 K2 disaster|K2 tragedy]] during a severe storm. More recently, on August 1, 2008, [[August 2, 2008 K2 climbing accident|a group of climbers went missing]] after a large piece of ice fell during an avalanche taking out the fixed ropes on part of the route; four climbers were rescued,<ref name="08/04/2008" /> but 11, including [[Gerard McDonnell]], the first Irish person to reach the summit, were confirmed dead.<ref name="cnn">{{cite web|url=http://www.cnn.com/2008/WORLD/asiapcf/08/03/pakistan.climbers/index.html|title=Climber: 11 killed after avalanche on Pakistan's K2}}</ref>


While [[WP:MED|WikiProject Medicine]] is normally happy to have articles obviously within its scope tagged by any editor, I have removed the WPMED tag from this article because it doesn't fall within the core "diseases and their treatments" scope of the project. [[WP:MED|WikiProject Medicine]] does not support the [[Medicalization|inappropriate medicalization of everyday life]]. (I may or may not have removed other banners at the same time.)
===The use of bottled oxygen===
For most of its climbing history, K2 was not usually climbed with bottled oxygen, and small, relatively lightweight teams were the norm.<ref name="him_alpine_style">Andy Fanshawe and Stephen Venables, ''Himalaya Alpine-Style'', Hodder and Stoughton, 1995, ISBN 0-340-64931-3</ref><ref name="world_mountaineering">Audrey Selkeld, editor, ''World Mountaineering'', Bulfinch Press, 1998, ISBN 0-8212-2502-2</ref> However the 2004 season saw a great increase in the use of oxygen: 28 of 47 summitters used oxygen in that year.<ref name="aaj_2005">''American Alpine Journal'', 2005, p. 351–353</ref>


If you believe that there is a significant medical connection to this subject that I've overlooked, please ''do not'' re-add the banner. Instead, take these steps:
===Women climbers===
# Read [[WP:WikiProject Medicine/Assessment#Is_WPMED_the_correct_WikiProject_to_support_this_article.3F|Is WPMED the correct WikiProject to support this article?]]
[[Image:K2 from SE.jpg|thumb|K2 from the southeast, photographed in 1909. The left hand skyline is the Southwest Pillar, the right hand skyline is the upper section of the Northeast Ridge]]
# Read [[:Template:WPMED#Scope_of_the_project|the instructions on the WPMED template]].
Legend once had it that K2 carried a "curse on women".{{Fact|date=September 2008}} The first woman to reach the summit was [[Wanda Rutkiewicz]], of [[Poland]], in 1986.<ref name=Jordan2006>Jordan, J. (2006) ''Savage Summit: the life and death of the first women who climbed K2''. New York: Harper. ISBN 0060587164 </ref> The next four women to reach the summit were all killed in climbing incidents &mdash; three of them died descending from K2 itself, among them fêted British mountaineer [[Alison Hargreaves]] in 1995,<ref name=Jordan2006 /> and Rutkiewicz herself died on [[Kangchenjunga]] in 1992.<ref name= Jordan2006 /> However, the "curse" was broken in 2004 when [[Edurne Pasaban]] summitted and descended successfully, and again in 2006 when Nives Meroi of Italy and Yuka Komatsu of Japan became, respectively, the seventh and eighth women to summit K2, both descending successfully. After [[Eun-Sun Oh]] in 2007, [[Cecilie Skog]] became the tenth woman to have summitted successfully (on {{date|2008-08-01}}) but her husband, [[Rolf Bae]], who was climbing with her perished during the descent when he was one of 11 climbers killed in the [[August 2008 K2 climbing accident|2008 climbing accident]].<ref>[http://www.aftenposten.no/english/local/article2573189.ece Climbers killed on K2]</ref> In addition, [[Mi-Sun Go]] became the eleventh woman to have summitted, also on {{date|2008-08-01}}.
# Then leave a message at [[WT:MED|the doctors' mess]] to ask whether the article falls within the scope of the project.


I continue to attempt to communicate with this anon editor, but the IP address changes very frequently, and efforts so far appear to be unsuccessful. If the anon editor places the WPMED banner on this article again, I ask for your support in removing it again. Thanks, [[User:WhatamIdoing|WhatamIdoing]] ([[User talk:WhatamIdoing|talk]]) 02:23, 19 September 2008 (UTC)
==Climbing routes and difficulties==
There are a number of routes on K2, of somewhat different character, but they all share some key difficulties: First is the extreme high altitude and resulting lack of oxygen: in fact there is only one third as much oxygen available to a climber on the summit of K2 as there is at sea level.<ref> [http://www.altitude.org/calculators/altitudefacts/altitudefacts.htm Altitude oxygen calculator online]</ref> Second is the propensity of the mountain to experience extreme storms of several days' duration, which have resulted in many of the deaths on the peak. Third is the steep, exposed, and committing nature of all routes on the mountain, which makes retreat more difficult, especially during a storm. Despite many tries there has been no successful ascent during the winter.


===Abruzzi Spur===
==Archive==
This talk page had grown to be quite large. I moved all the apparently finished discussions to the archive. I stopped when I reached the last comment from June 2008. [[User:WhatamIdoing|WhatamIdoing]] ([[User talk:WhatamIdoing|talk]]) 02:33, 19 September 2008 (UTC)
[[Image:AbruzziSpurRoute1.jpg|thumb||Carl Drew climbing ladders on Abruzzi Spur]]


==Hebrew mistranslation ==
The standard route of ascent, used far more than any other route, is the Abruzzi Spur,<ref name="him_alpine_style"/><ref name="world_mountaineering"/>, located on the Pakistani side, first attempted by [[Luigi Amedeo, Duke of the Abruzzi]] in 1909 (see the history above). This is the southeast ridge of the peak, rising above the [[Godwin Austen Glacier]]. The spur proper begins at an altitude of 5,400 m, where Advanced Base Camp is usually placed. The route follows an alternating series of rock ribs, snow/ice fields, and some technical [[rock climbing]] on two famous features, "House's Chimney" and the "Black Pyramid." Above the Black Pyramid, dangerously exposed and difficult to navigate slopes lead to the easily visible "Shoulder," and thence to the summit. The last major obstacle is a narrow [[couloir]] known as the "[[Bottleneck (K2)|Bottleneck]]," which places climbers dangerously close to a wall of [[serac]]s which form an ice cliff to the east of the summit. (It was partly due to the collapse of one of these seracs around 2001 that no climbers summited the peak in 2002 and 2003.)<ref name="aaj_2005"/>
In the section about red hair in Biblical times, there is a mistranslation. Adam, (אדם) the person, is spelled the same way as the word for person, which is pronounced 'a-dam'. The word for red, however, is spelled ( אדום). Words in Hebrew that are not spelled the same have no common origin.

-A native Hebrew speaker [[Special:Contributions/129.64.211.113|129.64.211.113]] ([[User talk:129.64.211.113|talk]]) 22:00, 24 September 2008 (UTC)
On August 1, 2008, [[August 2008 K2 climbing accident|a number of climbers went missing]] when a serac in the Bottleneck snapped and broke their ropes.<ref name=bbc2008>{{cite web|url=http://news.bbc.co.uk/1/hi/world/south_asia/7539543.stm|title=Nine feared dead in K2 avalanche |publisher=BBC|accessdate=2008-08-03}}</ref><ref name="cnn">http://www.cnn.com/2008/WORLD/asiapcf/08/03/pakistan.climbers/index.html?iref=mpstoryview</ref><ref name="08/03/2008">{{cite news|url=http://news.yahoo.com/s/ap/20080804/ap_on_re_as/pakistan_missing_climbers|title=9 climbers feared dead after avalanche on K-2|author=AP|publisher=Yahoo!}}</ref> Survivors were seen from a helicopter, but rescue efforts are impeded by the high altitude,<ref name="08/03/2008" /> and 11 are still missing<ref name="08/04/2008">{{cite web|url=http://news.yahoo.com/s/ap/20080804/ap_on_re_as/pakistan_missing_climbers|title=11 feared dead on K-2; 2 Dutch climbers rescued|author=AP|publisher=Yahoo! Inc}}</ref> and presumed dead.<ref name="cnn" />
:If the words have the same three consonants for their root, then they may well have a common origin, or at least a semantic relationship. Adam and adom both have the same root (ALEF-DALED-NUN), as has the word adamah, "earth, ground". The bare earth has a reddish color, and in the book of Genesis it is written that God created the first human being out of the earth. -Another native Hebrew speaker --[[Special:Contributions/89.139.253.205|89.139.253.205]] ([[User talk:89.139.253.205|talk]]) 18:16, 6 October 2008 (UTC)

===North Ridge===
[[Image:K2 Nordseite.jpg|thumb|The north side of K2. The North Ridge is in the centre of the picture.]]

Almost opposite from the Abruzzi Spur is the North Ridge,<ref name="him_alpine_style"/><ref name="world_mountaineering"/> which ascends the Chinese side of the peak. It is rarely climbed, partly due to very difficult access, involving crossing the [[Shaksgam River]], which is a hazardous undertaking.<ref name="aaj_1991">''American Alpine Journal'', 1991, pp. 19–32</ref> In contrast to the crowds of climbers and trekkers at the Abruzzi basecamp, usually at most two teams are encamped below the North Ridge. This route, more technically difficult than the Abruzzi, ascends a long, steep, primarily rock ridge to high on the mountain (Camp IV, the "Eagle's Nest", {{convert|7900|m|ft|abbr=on|disp=s}}), and then crosses a dangerously slide-prone hanging [[glacier]] by a leftward climbing traverse, to reach a snow couloir which accesses the summit.

Besides the original Japanese ascent (see the History section), a notable ascent of the North Ridge was the one in 1990 by Greg Child, Greg Mortimer, and Steve Swenson, which was done [[alpine style]] above Camp 2 (though using some [[fixed ropes]] already put in place by a Japanese team).<ref name="aaj_1991"/>

===Other routes===
[[Image:K2 south routes.jpg|thumb|right|The major routes to have been climbed on the south side of the mountain.
A:West Ridge
B:West Face
C:Southwest Pillar
D:South Face
E:South-southeast Spur
F: Abruzzi Spur]]
* Northeast Ridge (long and corniced; finishes on uppermost part of Abruzzi route), 1978.
* West Ridge, 1981.
* Southwest Pillar or "Magic Line", very technical, and second most demanding. First climbed in 1986 by the Polish-Slovak trio Piasecki-Wroz-Bozik. Since then the Catalan Jordi Corominas was the only successful climber on this route, despite many other attempts.
* South Face or "Polish Line" (extremely exposed and most dangerous). In 1986 [[Jerzy Kukuczka]] and [[Tadeusz Piotrowski (mountaineer)|Tadeusz Piotrowski]] did the first and only ascent on this route. [[Reinhold Messner]] called it a suicidal route and until now no one ever tried to repeat their achievement.<ref>R. Messner and A. Gogna [1981] (1982) K2 Mountain of Mountains. Translated from German by A. Salked. Oxford University Press. ISBN 0195202538</ref>
* Northwest Face, 1990.
* Northwest Ridge (finishing on North Ridge). First ascent in 1991.
* South-southeast spur or "Cesen route" (finishing on Abruzzi route. A possibly safer alternative to the Abruzzi Spur), 1994.
* West Face (technical difficulty at high altitude), done by a Russian team in 2007 [http://www.k2-8611.ru/Pages/default.aspx Official site].

==Topographic characteristics==
K2 is only [[List of peaks by prominence|ranked 22nd]] by [[topographic prominence]], a measure of a mountain's independent stature, because it is part of the same extended area of uplift (including the Karakoram, the Tibetan Plateau, and the Himalaya) as [[Mount Everest]], in that it is possible to follow a path from K2 to Everest that goes no lower than {{convert|4594|m|ft|abbr=on}} (at [[Mustang (kingdom)|Mustang Lo]]). Many other peaks which are far lower than K2 are more independent in this sense.

However, K2 is notable for its local relief as well as its total height. It stands over 3,000 m (9,840 ft) above much of the glacial valley bottoms at its base. More extraordinary is the fact that it is a consistently steep pyramid, dropping quickly in almost all directions. The north side is the steepest: there it rises over 3,200 m (10,500 ft) above the K2 (Qogir) Glacier in only 3 km (1.8 mi) of horizontal distance. In most directions, it achieves over 2,800 m (9,200 ft) of vertical relief in less than 4 km (2.4 mi).<ref name="8000m_map">Jerzy Wala, ''The Eight-Thousand-Metre Peaks of the Karakoram'', Orographical Sketch Map, The Climbing Company Ltd/Cordee, 1994.</ref> This degree of steepness, at this vertical scale, in so many different directions, is unmatched in the world.

==In the media==
===Books===
*''Ascent of K2 Second Highest Peak in the World'' by Ardito Desio. 1955
*''In the Throne of the Mountain Gods'' by [[Galen Rowell]], ISBN 0-87156-764-4, 1986
*''K2, Mountain of Mountains'' by R. Messner and A. Gogna, ISBN 0195202538. 1982
*''K2, Triumph and Tragedy'' by Jim Curran, ISBN 0-395-48590-8. 1987
*''The Endless Knot: K2, Mountain of Dreams and Destiny'' by Kurt Diemberger, ISBN 0-89886-300-7. 1991
*''Eiger Dreams: Ventures Among Men and Mountains'' by [[Jon Krakauer]] ISBN 0-385-48818-1. 1997
*''The Last Step: The American Ascent of K2'' by Rick Ridgeway, ISBN 0-89886-632-4. 1999
*''K2, The Story of the Savage Mountain'' by Jim Curran, ISBN 0-89886-683-9. 2000
*''K2, The Savage Mountain'' by Charles Houston, ISBN 1-885283-01-6. 2000
*''The Mountains of My Life'' by Walter Bonatti, ISBN 0-375-75640-X. 2001
*''K2, Quest of the Gods: The Great Pyramid in the Himalaya'' by Ralph Ellis, ISBN 0-932813-99-2. 2001
*''K2: One Woman's Quest for the Summit'' by Heidi Howkins, ISBN 0-7922-7996-4. 2001 (Paperback by [[National Geographic Society]], ISBN 978-0792264248, 2002)
*''K2 Kahani'' by Mustansar Hussain Tarrad, ''in [[Urdu]]''. ISBN 9693505239. 2002
*''Savage Summit: The True Stories of the First Five Women Who Climbed K2'' by Jennifer Jordan, ISBN 0-06-058715-6. 2005
*''Zvezdnate noči (Starry Nights)'' by [[Dušan Jelinčič]], EAN / ISBN 961-6387-75-8. 2006
*''No Shortcuts to the Top: Climbing the World's 14 Highest Peaks'' by Ed Viesturs. ISBN 0767924711. 2007
*''Three Cups of Tea: One Man's Mission to Promote Peace . . . One School at a Time. '' by Greg Mortenson and David Oliver Relin. ISBN 9780143038252. 2007

===Films===
*''[[Vertical Limit]]'', 2000
*''[[K2 (film)|K2]]'', 1992
*''[[Karakoram & Himalayas]]'', 2007

===CDs===
* In 1988, the British [[rock musician]] [[Don Airey]] released the album ''K2 (Tales of Triumph and Tragedy)'' (feat. [[Gary Moore]] and [[Colin Blunstone]]), which was dedicated to the 13 K2-victims in 1986.
* [[Hans Zimmer]] created a score for the movie ''[[K2 (film)|K2]]''. This score was unused in the film: the soundtrack was released separately in 1992 as ''K2: Music Inspired By The Film''

==See also==
* [[Concordia (Pakistan)|Concordia]]
* [[Northern Areas]]
* [[List of mountains in Pakistan]]
* [[List of highest mountains|List of the highest mountains in the world]]
* [[List of deaths on eight-thousanders]]

==References and notes==
{{reflist|2}}

==External links==
{{portal|Pakistan|Flag of Pakistan.svg}}
{{Commons|K2}}
*[http://www.leica-geosystems.com/metrology/en/solutions/other/lgs_2704.htm How high is K2 really?] &ndash; Measurements in 1996 gave 8614.27±0.6&nbsp;m [[Above mean sea level|a.m.s.l]]
*[http://www.k2climb.net/ K2climb.net]
*[http://www.macp-pk.org/home.asp The Mountain Areas Conservancy Project]
*[http://www.jerberyd.com/climbing/stories/k2/index.htm The climbing history of K2] from the first attempt in 1902 until the Italian success in 1954.
*[http://www.tibet.cn/english/news/2004-5-2/News0200452141408.htm China Peak Exploration Team to challenge Mt. Qogir]
*''Outside Online'': [http://outside.away.com/news/specialreport/alison/K2omag.html The K2 Tragedy]
*[http://www.k2doc.com/ K2: Daring to Dream Documentary]
*{{PDFlink|[http://photographic.co.nz/everestposter/K2%20Poster.pdf Sample of K2 poster product including Routes and Notes]|235&nbsp;[[Kibibyte|KiB]]<!-- application/pdf, 240942 bytes -->}} From [http://photographic.co.nz/everestposter/ Everest-K2 Posters]
* [http://bbs.keyhole.com/ubb/showthreaded.php/Cat/0/Number/420123/an/0/page/0#420123 Northern Pakistan - highly detailed placemarks of towns, villages, peaks, glaciers, rivers and minor tributaries in Google Earth]
*[http://www.summitpost.org/mountain/rock/150257/k2.html K2 on SummitPost.Org]
*[http://www.britannica.com/eb/article-9044241/K2 K2 on Encyclopedia Britannica]
*[http://www.omnimap.com/cgi/graphic.pl?images/for-topo/64-40851.jpg Map of K2]
*[http://www.8000ers.com/cms/content/view/53/192/ List of ascents to December 2007 (in pdf format)]
*[http://www.mensjournal.com/the-killing-peak.html 'The Killing Peak' Men's Journal Nov08 Feature]

{{Eight-thousander}}
{{Seven Second Summits}}

[[Category:Mountains of China]]
[[Category:Mountains of Pakistan]]
[[Category:Eight-thousanders]]
[[Category:Karakoram]]

[[ar:جبل كي 2]]
[[bn:কে২]]
[[zh-min-nan:K2 Hong]]
[[be:Гара Чагары]]
[[bg:К2]]
[[ca:K2]]
[[cs:K2]]
[[cy:K2]]
[[da:K2]]
[[de:K2]]
[[et:K2]]
[[es:K2]]
[[eo:K2]]
[[eu:K2]]
[[fa:کی ۲]]
[[fr:K2]]
[[ga:K2]]
[[gl:K2]]
[[ko:K2 산]]
[[hr:K2]]
[[id:K2]]
[[it:K2]]
[[he:K2]]
[[ka:კ2]]
[[lv:K2]]
[[lt:K2]]
[[hu:K2]]
[[mk:К2]]
[[mr:के२]]
[[nl:K2]]
[[ja:K2]]
[[no:K2]]
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[[pl:K2]]
[[pt:K2]]
[[ro:K2]]
[[rm:Lambha Pahar]]
[[ru:Чогори]]
[[simple:K2]]
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[[sl:K2]]
[[sr:К2]]
[[sh:K2]]
[[fi:K2]]
[[sv:K2]]
[[ta:கே-2 கொடுமுடி]]
[[th:ยอดเขาเคทู]]
[[tg:К2]]
[[tr:K2 Dağı (Himalayalar)]]
[[ur:کے ٹو]]
[[zh:乔戈里峰]]

Revision as of 01:36, 12 October 2008

Beards ?

I have a red beard and facial hair, but dark hair on my head and the rest of my body. I couldn't find anything in the article which explains what genetically might cause this. --Demonsforever (talk) 07:16, 9 July 2008 (UTC)

It is very common in Turkey what I am origin of. My brother has also brown hair with a red beard, i know at least 4-5 people with brown hair and light colored beards.

From Coon (I hate him, btw but no other resources):

The unexposed skin color of the Turks is mostly brunet-white or swarthy (von Luschan #11-16), the head hair color, in 90 per cent of cases, dark brown. Black hair, however, is found in less than 5 per cent, and blondism is rare. The ratio of dark brown hair is constant, except in the eastern provinces, where it is nearly 100 per cent. The beard hair is often lighter than the head hair; only 70 per cent are black or dark brown, while reddish shades are found among nearly 10 per cent. Reddish and blondish beards are by far commoner in the western and northern provinces than elsewhere, and are in these places found in one-third of the group observed. Zylan (talk) 14:57, 21 July 2008 (UTC)

My fathers facial hair is also orange, but when he still had hair, it was brown. He isn't of Turkish descent, so there must be some other genetic explanation? Littelbro14 (talk) 02:29, 5 August 2008 (UTC)

Maybe?

Perhaps including a picture of a certain notable red-haired lead singer from Guns 'N' Roses? (who ironically is also famous for being hot-tempered.) Only suggesting out of pure curiosity, doesn't mean you have to include it. --Crackthewhip775 (talk) 21:22, 28 August 2008 (UTC)

Someone please do this...it would be cool. 10/10/2008 —Preceding unsigned comment added by 98.222.99.172 (talk) 01:34, 12 October 2008 (UTC)

Wild historical innacuracy

In the section headed "Modern", there's a statement: "This matches the movement of the Celts and Picts as they were pushed westward and northward in Britain and Ireland during the Roman conquest of Britain, as well as the pattern of Viking settlement in the north of England".

The old fashioned view is that the Celts were physically pushed to the North and West by the Anglo-Saxons. It's widely believed now that the Germanic invaders formed a ruling elite while the majority of the population remained genetically similar, and that the displacement was more cultural than genetic. In any case, even if there was a physical displacement it was 500 years after the Roman conquest.

The bit about Viking settlement in the North of England doesn't make sense in context, it should be changed to "Viking settlement in the British Isles".


I don't have an account, so couldn't change it. —Preceding unsigned comment added by 58.96.79.149 (talk) 10:21, 29 August 2008 (UTC)

WikiProject banner spam

An anonymous editor appears to have dedicated him-/herself to spamming talk pages with long lists of WikiProject banners. This goes against the good advice at WP:WikiProject Council/Guide#Article_tagging and WP:WikiProject Council/Guide/WikiProject#Over-tagging, which recommends against speculatively spamming a long list of tangentially related WikiProjects to an article.

The editor often adds empty {{todo}} lists and usually {{talkheader}}, even to empty talk pages, which also violates the instructions for their use.

While WikiProject Medicine is normally happy to have articles obviously within its scope tagged by any editor, I have removed the WPMED tag from this article because it doesn't fall within the core "diseases and their treatments" scope of the project. WikiProject Medicine does not support the inappropriate medicalization of everyday life. (I may or may not have removed other banners at the same time.)

If you believe that there is a significant medical connection to this subject that I've overlooked, please do not re-add the banner. Instead, take these steps:

  1. Read Is WPMED the correct WikiProject to support this article?
  2. Read the instructions on the WPMED template.
  3. Then leave a message at the doctors' mess to ask whether the article falls within the scope of the project.

I continue to attempt to communicate with this anon editor, but the IP address changes very frequently, and efforts so far appear to be unsuccessful. If the anon editor places the WPMED banner on this article again, I ask for your support in removing it again. Thanks, WhatamIdoing (talk) 02:23, 19 September 2008 (UTC)

Archive

This talk page had grown to be quite large. I moved all the apparently finished discussions to the archive. I stopped when I reached the last comment from June 2008. WhatamIdoing (talk) 02:33, 19 September 2008 (UTC)

Hebrew mistranslation

In the section about red hair in Biblical times, there is a mistranslation. Adam, (אדם) the person, is spelled the same way as the word for person, which is pronounced 'a-dam'. The word for red, however, is spelled ( אדום). Words in Hebrew that are not spelled the same have no common origin. -A native Hebrew speaker 129.64.211.113 (talk) 22:00, 24 September 2008 (UTC)

If the words have the same three consonants for their root, then they may well have a common origin, or at least a semantic relationship. Adam and adom both have the same root (ALEF-DALED-NUN), as has the word adamah, "earth, ground". The bare earth has a reddish color, and in the book of Genesis it is written that God created the first human being out of the earth. -Another native Hebrew speaker --89.139.253.205 (talk) 18:16, 6 October 2008 (UTC)
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