Mélissa Le Nevé: Difference between revisions
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{{short description|French |
{{short description|French rock climber (born 1989)}} |
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{{Infobox climber |
{{Infobox climber |
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| image = Boulder Worldcup Vienna 29-05-2010a semifinals078 Melissa Le Nevé.jpg |
| image = Boulder Worldcup Vienna 29-05-2010a semifinals078 Melissa Le Nevé.jpg |
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| weight = 50 kg |
| weight = 50 kg |
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| typeofclimber = {{flatlist| |
| typeofclimber = {{flatlist| |
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| ⚫ | |||
* [[Sport climbing]] |
* [[Sport climbing]] |
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* [[Bouldering]] |
* [[Bouldering]] |
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| ⚫ | |||
}} |
}} |
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| highestgrade = |
| highestgrade = |
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| highestonsight = {{Climbing grade|8a+}} |
| highestonsight = {{Climbing grade|8a+}} |
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| highestboulder = {{boulder grade|8B+}} |
| highestboulder = {{boulder grade|8B+}} |
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| knownfor = First female ascent of ''[[Action Directe (climb)|Action Directe]]'' |
| knownfor = [[First female free ascent]] of ''[[Action Directe (climb)|Action Directe]]'' {{climbing grade|9a}} |
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| firstascents = |
| firstascents = |
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| namedroutes = |
| namedroutes = |
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| retired = 2016 (competition) |
| retired = 2016 (competition) |
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| medaltemplates = |
| medaltemplates = |
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{{MedalSport | Women's [[competition climbing]] }} |
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{{MedalCountry | {{FRA}} }} |
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{{MedalCompetition|[[IFSC Climbing World Cup]]}} |
{{MedalCompetition|[[IFSC Climbing World Cup]]}} |
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{{Medal|Bronze|2016|Bouldering}} |
{{Medal|Bronze|2016|Bouldering}} |
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| updated = 20 January 2022 |
| updated = 20 January 2022 |
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}} |
}} |
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| ⚫ | |||
| ⚫ | |||
==Early life== |
==Early life== |
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==Climbing career== |
==Climbing career== |
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| ⚫ | Le Nevé focused her [[competition climbing]] career |
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===Competition climbing=== |
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| ⚫ | In 2015, she became the first woman to climb a set of boulders in Fontainebleau called the "Big Five", one of |
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| ⚫ | Le Nevé focused her [[competition climbing]] career on the discipline of [[bouldering]]. Le Nevé was the French women's [[bouldering]] champion in 2010 and 2013, placed fourth in the 2011 [[IFSC Climbing World Cup|IFSC Bouldering World Cup]] overall standings, and placed 2nd at individual IFSC World Cup events in Slovenia (2013), Switzerland (2016), and Japan (2016).<ref name="petzl"/><ref>{{citation|url=http://www.planetmountain.com/en/news/competitions/shauna-coxsey-and-alexey-rubtsov-win-meiringen-bouldering-world-cup.html|title=Shauna Coxsey and Alexey Rubtsov win Meiringen Bouldering World Cup|date=April 16, 2016|magazine=PlanetMountain}}.</ref><ref>{{citation|url=http://www.ukclimbing.com/news/item.php?id=70420|title=Another Gold for Shauna Coxsey in Japan|magazine=UK Climbing|date=April 26, 2016|first=Natalie|last=Berry}}.</ref> She retired from competitive climbing in 2016, after finishing third in that year's IFSC Bouldering World Cup.<ref>{{citation|url=http://onbouldering.com/melissa-le-neve-retires-from-the-world-cups/|title= Mélissa Le Nevé retires from the World Cups|date=November 10, 2016|work=OnBouldering}}</ref><ref>{{citation|url=http://planetgrimpe.com/2016/11/08/interview-exclusive-de-melissa-neve-tourne-page-competitions/|language=French|title= Interview exclusive de Mélissa Le Neve: elle tourne la page des compétitions|date=November 8, 2016|first= Charles|last=Loury|work=Planet Grimpe}}</ref> |
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| ⚫ | Le Nevé has also climbed some of the hardest outdoor sport |
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===Rock climbing=== |
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| ⚫ | In 2015, she became the first woman to climb a set of boulders in Fontainebleau called the "Big Five", one of which–''Atrésie''–is rated {{boulder grade|8A}}.<ref>{{citation|url=http://www.ukclimbing.com/news/item.php?id=69567|title=Melissa Le Nevé climbs Big Five|magazine=UK Climbing|date=March 2015|first=Björn|last=Pohl}}.</ref> In December 2016, she climbed an {{boulder grade|8B}} boulder in Fontainebleau, ''La Cicatrice de L'Ohm''.<ref>{{citation|url=http://onbouldering.com/8bs-for-le-neve-and-sinnhuber/|title= 8B's for Le Nevé and Sinnhuber|work=OnBouldering|date=December 13, 2016}}. See also [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=plezLXa4jHM video of her climb], Relais Vertical, December 19, 2016.</ref> In 2017, she climbed the {{boulder grade|8B+}} problem, ''Mécanique élémentaire'', at Fontainebleau.<ref name=PM1>{{cite web |website=PlanetMountain.com | url=https://www.planetmountain.com/en/news/climbing/melissa-le-neve-becomes-first-woman-to-boulder-8b-plus-at-fontainebleau.html | date=23 March 2017 | accessdate=20 January 2022 | title=Mélissa Le Nevé becomes first woman to boulder 8B+ at Fontainebleau}}</ref> |
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| ⚫ | Le Nevé has also climbed some of the hardest outdoor sport climbing routes. In 2014, she made the [[first female free ascent]] (FFFA) of {{illm|Wallstreet (climbing route)|lt=Wallstreet|de|Wallstreet (Kletterroute)}}, an {{climbing grade|8c}} sport climbing route in the [[Frankenjura]].<ref>{{citation|url=http://www.planetmountain.com/en/news/climbing/melissa-le-neve-first-female-ascent-of-wallstreet-in-the-frankenjura.html|title=Mélissa Le Nevé, first female ascent of Wallstreet in the Frankenjura|date=May 14, 2014|magazine=PlanetMountain}}</ref><ref>{{cite web | website=PlanetMountain.com | url=https://www.planetmountain.com/en/news/interviews/melissa-le-neve-the-wallstreet-interview.html | date=15 May 2014 | accessdate=20 January 2022 | title=Mélissa Le Nevé, the Wallstreet interview}}</ref> In April 2020, she made the first free female ascent of [[Wolfgang Güllich|Wolfgang Güllich's]] iconic route ''[[Action Directe (climb)|Action Directe]]'' (XI, 9a) in Frankenjura.<ref>{{cite magazine | magazine=[[Rock & Ice]] | url=https://www.rockandice.com/climbing-news/melisa-le-neve-becomes-first-woman-to-climb-action-directe-9a-5-14d/ | date=21 May 2020 | accessdate=20 January 2022 | title=Mélissa Le Nevé Becomes First Woman To Climb "Action Directe" (9a/5.14d)}}</ref><ref>{{cite web | website=Gripped.com | url=https://gripped.com/news/melissa-le-neve-sends-action-directe-5-14d/ | title=Melissa Le Nevé Sends Action Directe 5.14d | date=21 May 2020 | accessdate=20 January 2020}}</ref><ref>{{cite web | website=[[Climbing (magazine)|Climbing]] | url=https://www.climbing.com/skills/climbing-technique-training-mental-curiosity/ | title=Use Your Curiosity To Become A Better Climber | first=Jasmine | last=Honneger | date=26 August 2022 | accessdate=9 September 2022}}</ref> |
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==Personal life== |
==Personal life== |
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[[Category:Living people]] |
[[Category:Living people]] |
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[[Category:French rock climbers]] |
[[Category:French rock climbers]] |
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[[Category: |
[[Category:French female climbers]] |
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[[Category:Sportspeople from Gironde]] |
[[Category:Sportspeople from Gironde]] |
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[[Category:IFSC Climbing World Cup overall medalists]] |
[[Category:IFSC Climbing World Cup overall medalists]] |
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[[Category:Boulder climbers]] |
[[Category:Boulder climbers]] |
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[[Category:French competition climbers]] |
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{{climbing-bio-stub}} |
{{climbing-bio-stub}} |
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{{France-sport-bio-stub}} |
{{France-sport-bio-stub}} |
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Latest revision as of 01:47, 11 November 2023
 ISFC Boulder World Cup, Vienne, 2010 | |||||||||||||||
| Personal information | |||||||||||||||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Nationality | French | ||||||||||||||
| Born | 8 July 1989 | ||||||||||||||
| Occupation | Professional rock climber | ||||||||||||||
| Height | 169 cm (5 ft 7 in) | ||||||||||||||
| Weight | 50 kg (110 lb) | ||||||||||||||
| Climbing career | |||||||||||||||
| Type of climber | |||||||||||||||
| Highest grade | |||||||||||||||
| Known for | First female free ascent of Action Directe 9a (5.14d) | ||||||||||||||
| Retired | 2016 (competition) | ||||||||||||||
Medal record
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| Updated on 20 January 2022 | |||||||||||||||
Mélissa Le Nevé (born July 8, 1989) is a French professional rock climber specializing in competition bouldering, but and also in outdoor sport climbing and bouldering.[1]
Early life[edit]
Le Nevé grew up in the Vosges until she was 10, and later began climbing at age 15, at a gym near Bordeaux.
Climbing career[edit]
Competition climbing[edit]
Le Nevé focused her competition climbing career on the discipline of bouldering. Le Nevé was the French women's bouldering champion in 2010 and 2013, placed fourth in the 2011 IFSC Bouldering World Cup overall standings, and placed 2nd at individual IFSC World Cup events in Slovenia (2013), Switzerland (2016), and Japan (2016).[1][2][3] She retired from competitive climbing in 2016, after finishing third in that year's IFSC Bouldering World Cup.[4][5]
Rock climbing[edit]
In 2015, she became the first woman to climb a set of boulders in Fontainebleau called the "Big Five", one of which–Atrésie–is rated 8A (V11).[6] In December 2016, she climbed an 8B (V13) boulder in Fontainebleau, La Cicatrice de L'Ohm.[7] In 2017, she climbed the 8B+ (V14) problem, Mécanique élémentaire, at Fontainebleau.[8]
Le Nevé has also climbed some of the hardest outdoor sport climbing routes. In 2014, she made the first female free ascent (FFFA) of Wallstreet, an 8c (5.14b) sport climbing route in the Frankenjura.[9][10] In April 2020, she made the first free female ascent of Wolfgang Güllich's iconic route Action Directe (XI, 9a) in Frankenjura.[11][12][13]
Personal life[edit]
She lives in Fontainebleau.[1][14]
Filmography[edit]
- Le Nevé's 2020 ascent of Action Directe: Lowell, Josh (director), Mortimer, Peter (director) (2020). ReelRock 15 (Motion picture). Sender Films. Retrieved 27 December 2021.
References[edit]
Wikimedia Commons has media related to Melissa Le Nevé.
- ^ a b c Mélissa Le Nevé, Petzl, retrieved 2016-04-30.
- ^ "Shauna Coxsey and Alexey Rubtsov win Meiringen Bouldering World Cup", PlanetMountain, April 16, 2016.
- ^ Berry, Natalie (April 26, 2016), "Another Gold for Shauna Coxsey in Japan", UK Climbing.
- ^ "Mélissa Le Nevé retires from the World Cups", OnBouldering, November 10, 2016
- ^ Loury, Charles (November 8, 2016), "Interview exclusive de Mélissa Le Neve: elle tourne la page des compétitions", Planet Grimpe (in French)
- ^ Pohl, Björn (March 2015), "Melissa Le Nevé climbs Big Five", UK Climbing.
- ^ "8B's for Le Nevé and Sinnhuber", OnBouldering, December 13, 2016. See also video of her climb, Relais Vertical, December 19, 2016.
- ^ "Mélissa Le Nevé becomes first woman to boulder 8B+ at Fontainebleau". PlanetMountain.com. 23 March 2017. Retrieved 20 January 2022.
- ^ "Mélissa Le Nevé, first female ascent of Wallstreet in the Frankenjura", PlanetMountain, May 14, 2014
- ^ "Mélissa Le Nevé, the Wallstreet interview". PlanetMountain.com. 15 May 2014. Retrieved 20 January 2022.
- ^ "Mélissa Le Nevé Becomes First Woman To Climb "Action Directe" (9a/5.14d)". Rock & Ice. 21 May 2020. Retrieved 20 January 2022.
- ^ "Melissa Le Nevé Sends Action Directe 5.14d". Gripped.com. 21 May 2020. Retrieved 20 January 2020.
- ^ Honneger, Jasmine (26 August 2022). "Use Your Curiosity To Become A Better Climber". Climbing. Retrieved 9 September 2022.
- ^ "Melissa Le Nevé, Rock Climber", Athletes & ambassadors, Adidas, retrieved 2016-04-30.
External links[edit]
- MELISSA LE NEVE, IFSC Database
- VIDEO: What Gets Melissa Le Nevé Out Of Bed In The Morning, Rock & Ice (February 2021)
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