Dagé

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François Boucher : Madame de Pompadour, Dage's most prominent customer, 1758.

Dagé or Dager (* in the 18th century in Gascony ; † in the 18th century) was in the time of King Louis XV. worked as a hairdresser in Paris . He was the hairdresser of two royal mistresses, the Duchess of Châteauroux and Madame de Pompadour . Dagé was one of the first prominent ladies' hairdressers in France with Frison , the court hairdresser of Queen Maria Leszczyńska .

Life

Up until the beginning of the 18th century, the hairdressing profession was unknown in France. In better society the gentlemen were coiffed by their valets, and the ladies of society entrusted their heads to the chambermaids. The common people were dependent on the services of barbers and wig makers. At the beginning of the 18th century, male master wig makers took over the hairdressing of women in opera houses, a first step on the way to becoming a ladies' hairdresser. The first prominent ladies' hairdresser was Frison , the court hairdresser of Louis XV. Wife Maria Leszczyńska .

Hairdresser for the Duchess of Châteauroux

In this situation, a “curler virtuoso” came on the scene, “who found no equal among all the nations of coiffed Christianity. His comb was more famous than the brush of Apelles or the chisel of Phidias . He had mastered the difficult art of matching a hairstyle to the facial expression; he knew how to give the look a seductive note by arranging a lock of hair, and he enlivened the smile with all the additional grace of a hair crep. ”With this ironic hymn of praise, the memoir writer Georges Touchard-Lafosse paid homage to Dagé, who had long since died in 1832.

Historian Eugène Louis Guérin confirmed Dagé's reputation as a star hairdresser:

“This Dagé was in great demand among the princesses of the blood and the first ladies of the court, who instead of their chambermaids had their hair done by this wig maker, who owed his breakthrough as a fashion hairdresser to the Duchess of Châteauroux. Dagé was a handsome young man of pleasant build and cheerful character - and a Gascon. "

Accordingly, Dagé came from Gascony , a region in southwest France whose inhabitants were known for their shrewdness. He was evidently not a little conceited, a quality he shared with fellow guilds like Frison and Legros de Rumigny . He hurried to his customers in his own modern equipage, "without sparing his horses", in order to carry out all the hairdressing jobs with which he was overwhelmed.

Louis XV appointed the Duchess of Châteauroux as his official mistress in 1742. She chose Dagé as her personal hairdresser. “You don't expect any works of art from a hairdresser. All that was required of him was to powder his hair, put on a few neat curls and garnish the whole thing with a bouquet of roses, a few diamonds or a piece of tulle or lace. ”When the Duchess of Châteauroux died two years later in 1744, Dagé had it as her hairdresser already made a celebrity in the world of hair fashion.

Madame de Pompadour's hairdresser

When Madame de Pompadour succeeded the late Duchess of Châteauroux in 1745, the King granted her all the honors and privileges of her predecessor at her request. Of course, the Pompadour also wanted to employ the hairdresser Dagé according to their rank. But he was shy. Some claim that he made fun of the bourgeois class of the Pompadour, Dagé officially announced that he was already being besieged by his many customers, his horses were already running on the gums and he himself was collapsing under the weight of his work. In short, Louis XV. had to personally ask the “prince of hairdressers” to be of service to his beloved.

At the first session, the Pompadour asked her hairdresser Dagé, knowing that she had triumphed over the stubborn, and how he had made it so famous and popular. He replied arrogantly: "Is that a miracle ... I did the hairstyle of the other" (the Duchess of Châteauroux). Dagés bon mot made the rounds, and the high ladies of the court, insofar as they were not well-disposed to the Pompadour, called her from then on "Madame celle-ci" (woman this-da).

Madame de Pompadour, Dagé's most prominent customer, died in 1764. It is not known how long Dagé served as Pompadour's hairdresser and how long he lived.

successor

Frison, the hairdresser of Queen Maria Leszczyńska , and Dagé, hairdresser of two of King Louis XV's mistresses, were the first prominent ladies' hairdressers in France. The next generation of star hairdressers included Legros de Rumigny , author of a hairstyle book and founder of a hairdressing academy, and the hairdressers of Queen Marie-Antoinette , Larseneur and his successor Léonard Autié . Autié and the milliner Rose Bertin , one of the few prominent hairdressers, were best known for their tower hairstyles.

literature

Life

  • Eugène Louis Guérin: La princesse Lamballe et madame de Polignac, volume 1. Paris: Charles Lachapelle, 1845, pages 51–53, pdf, edition 1858 .
  • Edmond et Jules de Goncourt : La femme au dix-huitieme siecle. Paris: Firmin Diderot, 1862, pages 304-305, pdf .
  • Georges Touchard-Lafosse: Chroniques pittoresques et critiques de l'oeil de boeuf des petits appartements de la cour et des salons de Paris, sous Louis XIV, la Régence, LouisXV et Louis XVI. Seconde Édition, Tome 6, Paris: Gustave Barba, 1832, pages 123–124 (Dagé, héros de la papillote), pdf .
  • Marie de Villermont: Histoire de la coiffure féminine. Brussels: Ad. Mertens, 1891, page 681, pdf .

Others

  • MW Duckett (editor): Dictionnaire de la conversation et de la lecture: inventaire raisonné des notions générales les plus indispensables à tous, par une société de savants et de gens de lettres, Seconde Édition, Tome 6. Paris, 1867, page 1– 2, pdf .
  • Joly de Fleury: Responses aux objections pour les coëffeurs des dames contre les Maîtres Barbiers & Perruquiers. Paris: Knapen & Delaguette, 1769, pdf .
  • Étienne-Léon de Lamothe-Langon: Mémoires de Mademoiselle Quinault ainée, Volume 2. Paris: Allardin, 1836, pages 130-131, pdf .

Web links

Commons : Portraits of the Duchess of Châteauroux  - Collection of images, videos and audio files
Commons : Portraits of Madame de Pompadour  - Collection of images, videos and audio files

Footnotes

  1. In a pamphlet between wigmakers and hairdressers it is said that Dubois called Frison and Dager were generally known as "hairdressers of the queen and the ladies of the court" ( #Fleury 1769 , page 3).
  2. # Guérin 1838 , page 51.
  3. #Duckett 1867 , page 1.
  4. #Fleury 1769 , page 3.
  5. ^ # Touchard-Lafosse 1832 , p. 123.
  6. # Guérin 1838 , page 51.
  7. #Villermont 1891 .
  8. #Villermont 1891 .
  9. # Touchard-Lafosse 1832 , pp. 123-124.