Dupioni silk

from Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia
Dupioni silk
Dupion dress from Sweden (1950s)

Dupion silk , in the goods dictionary of 1814 this type of goods is called doupions . It belongs to the mulberry silk family and has a somewhat irregular structure. The name "Dupion" is derived from the Italian duplicato and refers to the fact that the silk yarn is coiled from the cocoons of two silkworms that have pupated together. Dupion silk is mainly produced in India. The fabric absorbs textile dyes very well and achieves intense colors. It is therefore often used for evening wear (e.g. dresses, scarves, bags) or for home textiles (e.g. pillows, curtains).

properties

Extraction

The yarn of the dupioni silk comes from one of the following possibilities:

  • Double cocoons (double cocoons: 2 caterpillars in one cocoon)
  • a mixture of double cocoons and single cocoons
  • Single cocoons that are unwound to match the appearance of dupioni silk

The strength of the silk threads depends on the quality of the silk. Dupion silk can be found in thicknesses from 100/120 to 200/250 denier , but also finer types.

Weave

Dupion fabrics consist, usually in linen weave , usually in the warp of raw silk and in the weft of the dupion silk. The dupion silk is woven in two layers with a slight twist. The use of four-layer Dupion threads is rather rare and only suitable for heavy fabrics.

qualities

Quality criteria for good dupioni silk are:

  • Color: The colors used should not contain any toxic content.
  • Mistake: Torn threads or knots that are too thick indicate bad machines.
  • Structure: the threads shouldn't make waves. This can be seen in particular with fabrics where material has been saved, so that there are occasionally gaps in the yarn (in the weft).
  • Weight: The silk should weigh at least 75 grams per square meter.

Individual evidence

  1. ^ Johann Heinrich Moritz Poppe: Johann Christian Schedels new and complete, general wares encyclopedia [...] . Second part M to Z. Fourth thoroughly improved edition, Verlag Carl Ludwig Brede, Offenbach am Mayn 1814. p. 385.
  2. ↑ a b c Lexicon of fabrics: Dupion silk . www.stoff4you.de. Retrieved May 17, 2020.
  3. ↑ de.texsite.info: Textile dictionary with explanations - Dupion (n); Double cocoon (m) . Retrieved May 17, 2020.
  4. ↑ Seiden-Lexikon: Dupionseide . Seidenwelt (company website). Retrieved May 17, 2020.