Glacé leather
Glacé leather (also Glaceeleder, Glacé) is an extremely delicate, soft goat or young goat leather with a slight sheen and the advantage of being washable. It is preferably processed into elegant gloves , the so-called ice cream gloves . The name is derived from the French glacé ("icy", "iced", "with icing") and alludes to the almost white color of this leather.
history
Glacé tannery is a specialized form of white tannery . Appeared in France at the beginning of the 18th century , from the end of the century, due to its relatively quick processing, it was increasingly also operated by glove makers and glove manufacturers - the main processors of ice cream. Nevertheless, the Württemberg Chamber of Commerce recommended in 1830 that this trade should be obsolete, since it had matured to such a high degree in France that one could not seriously compete.
production
The rawhide is tanned in a pulp of alum , table salt, flour and egg yolk ( Gare ) , the so-called French or Erlangen white tanning , a process that takes only 24 hours compared to other tanning processes. The special suppleness of the leather is brought about by the egg yolk; Nowadays this is mostly replaced by oily emulsions . The raw materials used were comparatively expensive in the past, which helped determine the price of leather and turned products made from it into luxury items.
Then it is dried for a few hours and washed several times. The special softness and elasticity is now achieved through a special flexing, the so-called cleats . In order to make the glacé leather washable later without losing its softness and elasticity, it is then chrome-plated .
In traditional production, the paint is applied to the surface with a brush (brush or board coloring) and then fixed with a metal salt solution in order to achieve color-stable washability and moisture resistance . Acid aniline dyes are used in modern industrial production so that the leather can also be dyed in the vat, the so-called liquor .
Finally, black glacé leather is treated with a mixture of fats and waxes, while white and colored glacé leather is powdered with talc . Finally they are plushed , i. H. polished to achieve the luster shine typical of glacé leather.
See also
Individual evidence
- ↑ Royal. Central office for trade and commerce: Annual reports of the chambers of commerce and trade in Württemberg for the year 1866. With a statistical appendix. Stuttgart. Print by Blum and Vogel. 1866. p. 26.
literature
- Herder's Conversations Lexicon. Freiburg im Breisgau 1854, Volume 2, p. 212.
- Johann Georg Krünitz: Economic encyclopedia or general system of the state, city, house and agriculture. 232 volumes. Berlin, Pauli 1773-1858. [1]
- Otto Lueger: Lexicon of the entire technology and its auxiliary sciences. Vol. 4 Stuttgart, Leipzig 1906., p. 537.