Hem (textile)
The term “ hem” or “ slip” is to be understood quite generally as a margin; In the case of textiles , it is the name for the single or double folded edge of the fabric that is sewn to the underlying fabric and thus prevents the cut edges from fraying. The hem is attached by machine or by hand with so-called hem stitches. In addition to the folded hems, edged and false hems are common.
Folding
The piece of the hem fold that is folded inwards is called the fold. It protects the cut edge.
Edging in the skinning
In skinning, the word fold means the hem. For most fur garments this is the fold on the front edges, the bottom edge and the sleeve edges. In contrast to the textiles, the hem of the fur is only turned over once without any further folds. With the classic fur part, the hem edge is fastened with fixed stitches of various types of stitches (fold over stitch or stop stitch), which must not be pierced on the hair side. This seam is usually covered by the inner lining. Wider hems, especially the inner lining of the front edges, are also fastened with a cast-on stitch in order to guarantee a good fit of the documents. In order to prevent expansion during use, a ribbon is first glued or stapled (tied) to the broken edges. In addition, a filling insert is usually stapled in between, with flat or sparse material as a roll, which reduces the breakage of the hair fleece when the leather surface becomes visible. Edges of fur with dark hair and light leather are dyed dark through (dazzle) from the leather side with a spirit-soluble aniline dye in advance to prevent the leather from showing through.
In the case of velouted or napped fur clothing, the hem edge is stitched after tying, either the fur fold on the outside of the leather or folded in (after usually the hair underneath has been shaved off beforehand).
In the case of manual, non-industrial processing, cuffs, pocket flaps and strips, belt parts and latches are broken at the broken edge of the fur edges or textiles and fastened with folding stitches.
literature
- Meyer's Encyclopedic Lexicon . Volume 20, Bibliographisches Institut, Lexikonverlag, Mannheim / Vienna / Zurich 1975, p. 767.
- Jutta Lammèr: Lexicon of handicrafts . Otto Maier Verlag, Ravensburg 1983, ISBN 3-473-42363-7 .
Individual evidence
- ↑ Wilfried Schierbaum: Garment Lexicon. Schiele & Schön Fachverlag, Berlin 1993, ISBN 3-7949-0563-6 , p. 347.
- ↑ Author collective: Manufacture of tobacco products and fur clothing. Fachbuchverlag Leipzig, 1970, p. 447 “Umbugen”.