Ribbon

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Hand ribbon and duct tape in a skinning shop

Ribbon is a woven, textile ribbon used in skinning . It serves to secure the fur edges from a shape-changing stretching and tearing of the fur . The fastening of the tape is called tying (in Austria: "tying with the tape"). The reinforcement tape (also known as "corner tape") used in men's tailoring for the partially similar activity of reinforcement is also used as ribbon. For seam reinforcement are in the tailor twill cohesive seam tapes (twill tape) in use.

history

Hand-tied edge on hand-pricked fur

Until about immediately after the Second World War, i.e. after 1945, the ribbon was probably still mostly sewn on by hand in Europe. However, a Leipzig company advertised as early as 1934 for “ Klebfix , for tying and pricking”. The tape was initially stuck on with a brush and leather adhesives, which are characterized by the fact that they remain elastic after drying and harden as little as possible. The next step was the development of a tape gluer. The saving in working time was considerable; when used correctly, the stabilizing effect was even better than with hand-tying. Only in the case of very thin leathers, such as fine broad-tailed tails, was the banding often continued by hand in order to avoid pressing the band on the side of the hair or even later breaking the leather at the adhesive edge. When the first iron-on and the first self-adhesive ribbon came on the market, adhesive tape in particular quickly caught on and replaced the previous technologies. Working with this was clean, while with the tape gluer, not only the fingers, but also the device were considerably soiled. In addition, it was soft and could also be used where hand-banding had previously been used. The initial problems that at least some of the products had glue degrade the leather have been resolved over the years.

Binding is just one of several processes that stabilize the fur. In addition, there is the introduction of edge inlays and pricking out of the entire fur part. In the past, furs had to be particularly warm in addition to their decorative properties, but the latter has increasingly lost its importance after the elimination of carriages, the heating of automobiles, trains and trams and the introduction of central heating. Clothing should now above all be comfortable and light. First of all, in the latitudes with a temperate climate, the warming deposits were removed, then the furs were often only pricked in the upper area. In the meantime, if the fur material allows, tying is often the only way to protect the fur from stretching or tearing. However, even the ribbon is occasionally removed again after the individual fur parts have been sewn together in order to achieve an even softer drape.

Work technique

Classic tying is hand- tying, sewing the ribbon onto the edges of the cut (balanced) fur with a needle and thread. Today in industrial production only, in the detail skinning very predominantly, the adhesive tape , which can be processed much faster , is used. In addition, stabilizing materials are usually sewn on ( pricked ) or ironed on (fixed) in the front edges, in the fur front parts above and on the lower collar . If non-stretchable materials are used for the fixation, there is no need for strapping.

The tying is done either after the cutting pattern has been recorded or after it has been trimmed. Depending on the purpose and the condition of the fur and, above all, on the personal assessment of the furrier, the tape is either applied just behind the fur edge or concluding with the edge so that it is gripped when sewing together with the fur sewing machine. The latter results in better durability of the seams, which, however, become undesirably thicker and stiffer.

Hand-tying

Hand- tied a velvet mink undercollar

Hand ribbon is produced in ribbon weaving mills and is not stretchable due to the plain weave and the fixed selvedges on both sides. In Germany it is usually only produced in white and black, previously also in natural, brown and gray, in widths of 8 and 10 millimeters.

When hand tying, the tying tape is sewn on with a normal sewing needle suitable for the respective material with blind stitches (pricking stitches) in a zigzag stitch , about 1 millimeter from the edge. The so-called "furrier" or triangular needles are rarely used in furring, they were previously used for extremely thick leather (coachman furs). They cut the leather and are therefore unsuitable for tying anyway. Hems ( Umbugkanten ) are gebändelt directly to the edge on curves, the belt is either in rapid succession or cut to half the bandwidth but sewn following turned over several times obliquely rounding. In the corners, the tape is laid in the correct shape and stabbed in place, at angles it is turned and stuck in place as a lock.

The routes to be tied are:

When fuselage , beginning from the most expedient and lapel gutter up to the transition lapel following the course of the contours, all the upper cutting edges as well as the dart . Darts are usually only tied on one side, in the back towards the middle of the back and in the front parts on the side towards the front edge. This ensures that the edges do not expand during further processing. In addition, the pocket openings are tied all around and the lower hem edge. In addition, areas that are at risk of stretching or tearing can be secured with straps. This can be the case, for example, with a plump or particularly thin skin. Additional distances due to the model, such as dividing seams, slits and buttonholes, must be tied on all parts depending on the material properties.
The sleeves are tied in the arm balls, the underarm seam and in the hem. The front forearm seam is occasionally left untied in order to allow the machine sewer to adjust the stretch or hold it when assembling. Depending on the material and model, further stretches to be tied can arise, as with the trunk.
On the upper and lower collar, the neck bow should be tied, if possible over the sewn darts, otherwise all edges on the lower collar, small darts on one side.
With the pricking machine

Instead of by hand, the hand ribbon is occasionally also applied with a pricking machine. Since the machine works with only one thread, the seam can be separated again from the end.

With the blindstitch tying machine

Very little in use, designed by the company Strobel seems Blindstichbändelmaschine to be (Class 225-43). Instead of hand-stitching or gluing, she attaches the ribbon that stabilizes the fur edges with a sewing thread, just like when sewing by hand. The ribbon to be used has a width of 5 millimeters, the stitch length is also 5 millimeters; it is sewn in the middle of the ribbon.

Glue and fix

  • Master furrier Max Klefisch with his newly developed Emka tape adhesive (1974)

  • Tying a velvet weasel coat with self-adhesive ribbon (2013)

Self-adhesive ribbon can be obtained from specialist wholesalers in any width. Unlike the hand-held ribbon, it has no selvedge, but the rolled-up fabric coated with the adhesive is cut to the desired width according to the customer's specifications. Depending on the manufacturer, it is offered with or without a separating film. The most common are widths between 5 and 10 millimeters. The adhesive quality of the tapes from different suppliers varies considerably. The tape should be as thin as possible and, of course, not stretch. If the adhesive is as firm and permanent as possible, it should still be possible to pull it off again without damaging the fur leather. If the fur is sewn together, at least occasional grabbing of the tape should not lead to seam dropouts. In addition, the adhesive must be compatible with the tanning process deposited in the leather and must not attack the hide leather over a long period of time.

The banding is done either directly after tying off the smoothly stretched fur, or only after aligning it . In the case of processes involving the division of labor, the former is often done by the furrier, the tying of the cut pieces by the fur seamstress. As a rule, the self-adhesive tape is attached about 1 to 3 millimeters from the edge. Grasping this tape when assembling the fur part usually proves to be problematic, since almost all adhesive coatings contaminate the needle and the thread is no longer caught by the gripper of the fur sewing machine . As with hand-tying, the tape is applied directly to the inner break edge of the hem.

On curves, the adhesive tape is cut up to half the bandwidth on the side facing away from the curve. The tape must be cut in the corners and reattached. The processor must ensure that the tape adheres well and that the fur is in no way adhered to. The cutting of the ribbon is either done with scissors or quite simply by pressing on the skinning knife, a blade holder, and tearing off the ribbon.

Before 1950 a ribbon that could be ironed on was already in use. The processing corresponds to that of the adhesive tape except for the ironing process.

Auxiliary devices

The only auxiliary device specially developed for strapping that became known in German-speaking countries was the Emka gluing machine. The inventor is the Krefeld furrier Max Klefisch (* 1914), who also set up a ribbon weaving mill in Nettetal-Lobberich. In 1974 he presented the device as "The Novelty" at the Frankfurt fur fair . Under the special roll with the ribbon he supplied was the container with the white adhesive through which the ribbon was passed. When the self-adhesive tapes prevailed, the device gradually disappeared from the factories. Only the Emka ribbon is still available (as of 2013), for hand ribboning and for the furriers who apply the permanent adhesive again with a brush using the old method.

Literature, web links

Commons : Tying Furs  - Collection of images, videos and audio files

supporting documents

  1. ↑ a b c Author collective: Manufacture of tobacco products and fur clothing . VEB Fachbuchverlag, Leipzig 1970, pp. 426-428.
  2. ↑ Alfons Hofer: Textile and Model Lexicon . 7th edition, Volume 1, Deutscher Fachverlag, Frankfurt am Main 1997, keyword “Lisierband”. ISBN 3-87150-518-8
  3. ↑ display of B. sliding Mann & Bunge, 1934th
  4. ^ A b David G. Kaplan: The Fur Book . Copyright The Reuben H. Donnelley Corporation, New York 1950, pp. 58-59. (engl.)
  5. ↑ Without mentioning the author: J. Strobel & Sons - Rittershausen . In: Rund um den Pelz International No. 6, June 1972, p. 16.
  6. ↑ Martin Krapohl: Max Klefisch presented a new tape gluer . In: Pelz International. April 1974, p. 198.