Ribbon weaving
Ribbon weaving is a branch of the textile industry in which, with the help of ribbon weaving machines, smooth and patterned narrow fabrics of all kinds, as ribbons and belts with selvedges on both sides in widths of 5 to 400 mm, are produced.
In ribbon weaving, as in wide weaving, a distinction is made between looms with shafts (see weaving machine # Structure and mode of operation of a simple weaving machine ) and those with jacquard devices for raising and lowering the warp threads. With the former simpler compounds such as are plain weave , twill weave or satin weave produced with the complicated jacquardgesteuerten individual thread movement patterns. For hollow, double and multiple fabrics or for rubber elastic bands, special weaves are used that require special equipment. When it comes to weft insertion, needle ribbon looms have almost entirely replaced shuttle ribbon looms.
Textile tapes are used for various technical purposes, used in the clothing industry, used on labels for care instructions or for branding, and used as ornaments in a variety of ways.
In some regions, even the term ribbon weaving synonymous to Bandweberei used. The production or knitting of ribbons used to be a manual task of (specialized) weavers . Today, machine-made textile fabrics are differentiated according to the thread system in woven and knitted fabrics , the latter in knitwear and weft knitted fabrics as well as warp knitted fabrics according to their stitch formation . This contrasts with manual knitting as a craft.
history
Band weaving as an alternative to tablet weaving was already used around 3000 to 2000 BC. A knitting frame with two pairs of rollers (warp and fabric beam) and tensioning devices for the warp threads, between which the weft thread was inserted by hand or with a needle and struck with a comb, was used. From this knitted frame the trimmings chair with small shafts, steps, weaving reeds and throwers was developed later. Evidence of extensive ribbon weaving in Germany is available from Krefeld as early as the 13th century. It only became an independent trade at the beginning of the 17th century. It was traditionally based mainly in the Wuppertal district of Ronsdorf . in the Remscheid district of Lüttringhausen and in the rest of the Bergisches Land (where one usually spoke of ribbon knitting) as well as in Saxony, where in West Lusatia with the main towns of Großröhrsdorf , Pulsnitz , Ohorn and Oberlichtenau the proceeds for over 300 years until the beginning of the 20th century from the band and webbing mill for almost 70% of the working population, the main source of income were as the industrialization began, band Weber presented mostly in home offices strips of linen , cotton , silk and other materials on simple catchy handlooms ago. In 16 hours, a house weaver who works in a “ shed ” extension of their house or in the attic produces 15 m of tape. In the second half of the 17th century, the continuously improved ribbon looms (also called ribbon mills) were able to weave several ribbons at the same time and thus 400 to 600 m of ribbon daily. The 19th century saw a sharp rise in ribbon weaving. In 1754 Basel had only 1225 ribbon chairs, but in 1860 it had 7250. Even when ribbon looms met the great need for ribbons, domestic ribbon weaving continued. It was woven on ribbon loom combs, richly carved from wood, and often used as gifts for the bride. The youngest dated ribbon comb is from 1892 ( Jamund ), the youngest ribbon that is in the museum is from 1912 ( Museum European Cultures , Berlin). In 1935 an elderly lady was photographed weaving apron ribbons ( Jamund ).
Today ribbons are produced on automatically running ribbon looms, on which up to 80 ribbons can be woven next to each other.
Ribbon looms
After the first ribbon looms, in which the weft thread was inserted into the shed with a needle, appeared on the market in the 1950s, needle technology almost completely replaced shuttle ribbon weaving technology between 1960 and 1980 due to the enormous increase in production from. It is only used for a few articles for reasons of binding.
Needle looms
Conventional needle looms for various purposes are designed to produce ribbons up to 40 cm wide. The machines are built with 2 to about 14 webs depending on the width of the woven belt. The warp threads are fed to the individual webs either from the warped warp beam or from the creel. The weft insertion takes place from one side of the shed with the aid of a perforated needle and at a speed of up to 1500 wefts / min. Knitting needles on both sides of the woven web form stitches that connect them with one another or with an additional weft thread and thus strengthen the fabric edges. This creates a "real", ie not a cut selvage.
The machines can be equipped with a jacquard device for complex patterns with up to several dozen colors or for ribbons with changing widths with two weaving systems one behind the other.
Special machines are used to manufacture elastic tapes , seat belts , curtain tapes , hem tape and others.
Shuttle loom
This type of machine enables the efficient production of particularly dense fabrics or for hoses with tubular branches, such as those required for blood filters or gasoline filters. Rifle looms can currently have a maximum of 300 wefts / min with a max. Working width of 85 mm. The edges of flat ribbons usually have to be reinforced with a special fabric weave ( hollow weave ).
In contrast to wide looms, the shooters (also known as shuttle ) never leave the guide, which means that they are always guided either to the right or left of the belt.
For special ties, up to four shooters can be arranged on top of each other, which then, depending on the control of the chain, several tapes with single fabric on top of each other or composite fabrics , such as curtain tapes with a Y- shaped cross-section, or buttonhole tapes , where an upper and a lower one Band is only connected to each other at certain points.
Wide looms
Gripper or air jet looms are used, for example, for the production of labels. These first produce a wide web of fabric. The finished fabric is then cut on the weaving machine with a mechanical or thermal cutting device into strips with a width of 6 mm or more.
See also
Individual evidence
- ^ Paul-August Koch, Günther Satlow: Large Textile Lexicon: Specialized lexicon for the entire textile industry. Deutsche Verlags-Anstalt, Stuttgart 1965, Vol. A –K, p. 110.
- ^ Alois Kießling, Max Matthes: Textile - specialist dictionary. Fachverlag Schiele & Schön, Berlin 1993, ISBN 3-7949-0546-6 , p. 30
- ↑ Author collective: Gewebetechnik. Fachbuchverlag, Leipzig 1975, p. 420.
- ↑ Hans Walter Kipp: Bandwebtechnik. Verlag Sauerländer, Aarau-Frankfurt-Salzburg 1988, ISBN 3-87529-023-2 , p. 180ff.
- ↑ In the footsteps of the bandweaver , accessed on November 2, 2018
- ↑ Walther v. Hahn: The technical language of the textile industry in the 17th and 18th centuries. VDI-Verlag Düsseldorf 1971, p. 235.
- ^ Paul-August Koch, Günther Satlow: Large Textile Lexicon: Specialized lexicon for the entire textile industry. Deutsche Verlags-Anstalt, Stuttgart 1965, Vol. A –K, p. 114.
- ^ Frank Nürnberger: History of the Upper Lusatian textile industry. Oberlausitzer Verlag Frank Nürnberger, Spitzkunnersdorf 2007, ISBN 978-3-933827-70-8 , p. 120.
- ^ Anton Lübke: Weltmacht Textil - An economic biography of clothing. Veria Verlag Dr. Walter Schmid, Stuttgart 1953, p. 403.
- ↑ Eich Essig: needle ribbon weaving technique. Jakob Müller Institute of Narrow Fabrics, Frick 2005, ISBN 3-906491-08-0 , p. 8.
- ↑ Bernhard Engesser: needle ribbon loom. EP 3 269 855, p. 2.
literature
- Alois Kießling, Max Matthes: Textile specialist dictionary . 5th edition. Schiele & Schön, Berlin 1993, ISBN 3-7949-0546-6 .
- Heinz Hennig, Christa Aipperspach, Johann. Bauer: tissue technology . 2nd Edition. Friedr. Vieweg + Sohn, Wiesbaden 1983, ISBN 978-3-528-04114-4 .
- Sabine Schachtner: Märkische Hausbandweber. Work and job-related attitude “independent wage laborer”. 1986 ( full text as PDF )
- Herbert Vogler: "From the history of ribbon weaving", In: Ribbon and Flechtindustrie Volume 39 (2002), pp. 62–65.
- Industry and Belt Museum Großröhrsdorf e. V. and Technical Museum of the Ribbon Weaving Mill Großröhrsdorf (ed.): Großröhrsdorf and the ribbon weaving mill - a reminiscence. 2nd edition 2020.
