Jacquard loom
The loom further developed by Joseph-Marie Jacquard is called a jacquard loom .
Even in prehistoric times there were simple looms in many parts of the world. But it was not until 1785 that the Englishman Edmund Cartwright invented the first mechanical loom. On April 19, 1805, the weaving machine of the French silk weaver Joseph-Marie Jacquard (1752–1834) brought a considerable improvement . Controlled by one punch card per shot , it is used to pull up warp threads individually, thus enabling the weaving of large patterned fabrics ( jacquard pattern ). The difference to damask looms , which are used to produce similar fabrics, is that there warp threads can only be dug in groups.
A few decades later, patterning devices for knitting and warp-knitting machines were constructed according to the Jacquard principle .
How the weaving machine works with jacquard equipment
Individual strands are attached to lifting cords (harnesses) that hang on special hooks ( plates ). Due to the vertical movement of the sinkers, individual warp threads are directed into the upper or lower part of the shed with each machine revolution.
In the original jacquard loom, the sinker movements were controlled by punch cards . It was one of the first known applications of punch card technology. Most newer devices work with electromagnetic transmission of the control pulses given by the computer.
Modern jacquard machines work with up to 24,000 sinkers. This means that the woven pattern can reach the size of a whole loom width.
In 2007 a jacquard machine was to come onto the market, in which the strands could be controlled without the complicated harness system.
Functional jacquard looms
An old jacquard loom with punch card control is demonstrated in operation and a. in the cloth maker museum in Bramsche near Osnabrück. A fully functional jacquard loom with punch card control is located in the "Technical Museum of Ribbon Weaving" in Großröhrsdorf . Old jacquard looms are still in use at the "Mechanische Weberei H. Egelkraut" in Trutzhain and are primarily used for the production of small quantities of fabrics for churches, theaters, films, musical instruments or costumes. There are also working machines in the textile museum in Roubaix .
Even today, in the former upholstery fabric weaving mill Cammann & Co. , today the Cammann Gobelin Manufactory in Braunsdorf near Chemnitz , jacquard fabrics are produced on 60-year-old Chemnitz Schönherr looms with punched cards based on the principle of Joseph-Marie Jacquard.
Jacquard device on the Raschel machine
A movable pin, which is controlled by a pattern program, is attached to each jacquard guide bar between two perforated needles . When the pin is lowered, the corresponding perforated needle is displaced to the neighboring needle, where a loop of two threads is formed and, on the other hand, an opening is created in the knitted fabric.
Jacquard guide bars are often combined with so-called drop plates and with a whole set of guide bars (multi-bars). For extensive patterns, for example, combinations of tricot with twill or fringe weave are formed, patterns of lace (replacement for previous bobbins ) are created, etc.
Since the consumption of individual threads of a warp on the jacquard knitting machines can be very different, no warps are warped , but individual threads are unwound from bobbins in the creel.
Jacquard equipment on knitting and weeding machines
Every single knitting or knitting needle is controlled directly; This means that different binding elements such as stitches , handles and floats in different colors can be combined next to each other in a row of stitches .
The pattern can be programmed on the computer and transferred directly to the machine.
Hand knitting machines can also be equipped with a jacquard device.
literature
- Fabia Denninger, Elke Giese: Textile and Model Lexicon. 2 volumes. Deutscher Fachverlag Frankfurt am Main 2006, ISBN 3-87150-848-9 .
- Mon Tricot & Plus. Ediclair, Paris 1980, ISSN 0247-2708 .
- Birgit Schneider: Textile processing. A media history of punch card weaving. Diaphanes Verlag Berlin / Zurich 2007 ISBN 978-3-03734-007-3 .
- Almut Bohnsack: The jacquard loom. Deutsches Museum, Munich 1993.
Web links
- From the loom to the computer
- Raschel with jacquard machine
- Hand knitting machine with jacquard device
Individual evidence
- ^ Technical museum of the ribbon weaving mill Großröhrsdorf ; accessed on May 8, 2020
- ↑ Historical Egelkraut weaving mill - history , accessed on June 11, 2016