Stand-up collar
The stand-up collar is a shirt collar that is worn around the neck. It is an essential style feature of the shirt in the 19th and early 20th centuries. This collar shape was predominantly worn from around 1850. Nowadays the turn-down collar has almost completely supplanted it.
history
At the time of its creation, collars were usually not sewn onto the shirt, but rather unbuttoned. This made it easier to clean and starch the parts that get dirty more quickly. The parricide was an early form of the stand-up collar. At present, stand-up collars are rarely found on shirts (2015). Only on festive occasions do men wear a tuxedo , tailcoat and cutaway shirt with a wing collar , a modern variant of the patricide. Occasionally, shirt manufacturers equip their shirts with a very modern cut with a mandarin collar, a stand-up collar based on the Chinese model.
Stand-up collar, stand-up collar
The soft stand-up collar and the hard stand-up collar are collar shapes that have been adopted from uniforms and are reminiscent of the Litewka uniform jacket . They have a two to three centimeter high neck finish without corners. The collar shape can be found on blouses, shirts and jackets. It can be worn open or closed. It was the hallmark of the Mao look fashion style .
Uniform collar
Uniforms with stand-up collars appeared around the middle of the 19th century. These collars were originally placed at the level of the Adam's apple and provided with strong linings made of linen, often also metal rods, permanently incorporated or removable. The occasionally very high collars only allowed the head to nod to a limited extent and forced the wearer to adopt a "snooty" head position. As a rule, the collars were made in the same color as the cuffs and piping , different from the basic fabric. In the case of team uniforms, the stiffeners were dispensed with in order to make them suitable for the field. Since the uniforms could be worn without a shirt collar, but lay close to the neck, they had a ticking on the inside - mostly in white, buttoned out and washable.
Today's stand-up collars are cut to the base of the neck and do not reach much higher than the Adam's apple. Since they are now worked in a semicircle, they no longer stand out. Instead, they slope inwards towards the neck, which gives them the same look as before. Although they are no longer so restrictive and uncomfortable, they have not yet completely lost this bad reputation.
Joachim Murat, France, around 1808
Antoine de Jomini
United States
See also
- Collar , closed at the front of priests
Web links
Individual evidence
- ↑ Alfons Hofer: Textile and Model Lexicon. 7th edition. Volume 2, Deutscher Fachverlag, Frankfurt am Main 1997, ISBN 3-87150-518-8 , keyword "Stand-up collar (hard), stand-up collar (soft)".
- ^ Lexicon of Fashion , Woldemar Klein Verlag, Baden-Baden 1950