T-anchor (alpinism)
The T-anchor is a fixed point used in mountaineering , which is used in firn and snow . An elongated object - for example an ice ax - is buried in the snow across the direction of pull. A more general principle of this procedure is called a dead man .
The digging depth depends on the nature of the snow, with hard firn 30 centimeters is sufficient, with soft snow up to 80 centimeters must be digged. Ice axes, skis or sticks , which can also be wrapped in an anorak, are suitable as anchors . In particularly unfavorable conditions, a half-full backpack can also be buried.
A sling is attached in the middle of the buried object using an anchor stitch . When digging in, make sure that this sling does not run upwards from the anchor, otherwise the anchor will be pulled to the surface of the snow when it is pulled. In addition, the snow cover below the anchor, i.e. in the direction of pull, must not be impaired, the "cable trench" for the sling is pulled as narrow as possible. From above, the anchor is kicked in with snow at the end.
The T-anchor is often used for a crevasse rescue , since it is not possible to set an ice screw on a glacier with fresh snow cover and the risk of a crevasse fall is very high.
literature
- Pepi Stückl, Georg Sojer: Mountaineering: Textbook for all types of mountaineering . Bruckmann, Munich 1996, ISBN 3-7654-2859-0
Web links
- Walter Würtl: Firn stand construction site, anchoring in the snow (PDF; 2.2 MB)