Verdugado
Verdugado , also known as vertugade , or vertugadin , is the historical Spanish name for a petticoat that was originally made from wicker. Even if the shape looks like the newfangled hoop skirts , the construction is different.
history
The name “Verdugado” comes from “verdugo” (“green wood”), a green tree shoot of the fully grown stilt pipe , which is used to describe the more flexible young shoots of this plant.
The origin is in Spain around 1470, where the so-called “Verdugado” was worn as part of the outer clothing. Rings made from subtropical pile tubes or Spanish reeds were initially used for support and were later replaced by willow rods and wire frames. This original hoop skirt was partially padded with horsehair.
The Verdugado quickly became an integral part of Spanish women's fashion . In the middle of the 16th century, numerous paintings from the Renaissance and Spanish Baroque periods show women in typical Spanish, conical court dress. The so-called "Verdugado" supported the garment to prevent wrinkles.
Due to Spain's great political and economic influence during the 16th century, fashion spread across Europe. Other European rulers soon followed the fashionable example of the Spanish royal family. Spanish tailors enjoyed an excellent reputation and were in demand everywhere.
From childhood on, the ladies of class and nobility had to learn to wear such skirts. The French court soon adopted the Spanish Verdugado, and other courts followed suit. Even Queen Elizabeth I of England wore Spanish fashion despite the legendary Spanish-English fashion affinity.
In France, the original cone shape was changed to a barrel-shaped vertugadine , which was wide and horizontal from the waist and then fell straight down.
gallery
Marcus Gheeraerts: Elizabeth I ( The Ditchley Portrait ), ca.1592
Frans Pourbus d. J .: Maria de 'Medici , Queen of France , 1606–1607. A typical barrel-shaped hoop skirt ( vertugadin ), as it was fashionable in France.
Frans Pourbus d. J .: Elisabeth of France , around 1617
literature
- Bert Bilzer: master painters fashion ; Georg Westermann Verlag, Braunschweig 1961, p. 27
- Max von Boehn: The fashion: people and fashions in the sixteenth century , 1908
- Janet Arnold: Patterns of Fashion: the cut and construction of clothes for men and women 1560-1620 , Macmillan 1985, ISBN 0-89676-083-9
- Janet Arnold: Queen Elizabeth's Wardrobe Unlock'd , WS Maney and Son Ltd, Leeds 1988, ISBN 0-901286-20-6
Individual evidence
- ↑ Vertugade on zeno.org 1905
- ↑ Ludmila Kybalová, Olga Herbenová, Milena Lamarová: The great image lexicon of fashion - from antiquity to the present , translated by Joachim Wachtel, Bertelsmann, 1967/1977: p. 166 + 466.
- ↑ Ludmila Kybalová, Olga Herbenová, Milena Lamarová: The great image lexicon of fashion - from antiquity to the present , translated by Joachim Wachtel, Bertelsmann, 1967/1977: p. 166 + 466.