ATC (belay device)
ATC is the name of a belay device designed for climbing by Black Diamond , which belongs to the group of tubes . The abbreviation ATC is ironic for English A ir T raffic C ontroller ( air traffic controller ).
ATC
In principle, the ATC is a new version of the die plate, which is no longer in use today . The ATC can be used to secure a lead climber or for top rope climbing . It must be ensured that the belay device in its standard form generates only low frictional forces and thus requires high manual forces when belaying. It can also be used for rappelling, especially since two strands of rope can be controlled by the ATC . This makes the device particularly interesting for climbing in twin rope technology due to its easy handling. When securing on a single rope strand, the second opening of theATC unused.
The device should always be between the position of the safety hand and the climber. This means that the course of the rope through the belay device with subsequent direct deflection in the direction of the safety hand describes an S-shaped course. The belay hand must not be held on the same side as the climber, as seen from the belay device. With only a U-shaped course, the holding forces to be applied by the safety hand would be extremely high in the event of a fall.
This results in the frequently held view that the ATC should not be used to secure a second climber when using a fixed point protection. The reason for this is that in the event of a fall, the brake rope would have to be pulled upwards (the second climber is located below the belay device if the s-shaped rope route is required), which should contradict the natural reflexes when belaying. This problem can be avoided by redirecting the anchor point or securing the body.
ATC-XP
The ATC-XP is a further development of the ATC. On one side at the lower end of the device there are V-shaped, corrugated brake slots, which improve the braking effect, especially with thinner ropes. Depending on how the rope is guided through the belay device, there are high friction values and thus a high braking effect using the corrugation in the ATC-XP or a normal braking effect similar to the ATC.
If the braking effect on twin ropes or wet ropes is not sufficient for heavy people, this can be further increased by attaching the ATC-XP with two carabiners instead of one.
The ATC-XP is a universal device that is suitable for all types of climbing. Due to its low weight and its universal use for belaying (static and dynamic) and for abseiling, the device has gained popularity.
ATC guide
The ATC Guide is a further development of the ATC-XP. It is not only suitable for abseiling and for securing the lead, but is also designed as a belay device for a climber to follow. It has a large eyelet on which you can hang the device on a stand. A cord can be attached to the smaller eyelet , with which you can loosen the clamp caused by a fallen second climber in order to lower the second climber.
Web links
Individual evidence
- ^ Press release from Black Diamond June 5, 2003, explanation of the name ( Memento of December 3, 2008 in the Internet Archive )