Lead
The lead climb is a term from mountain sports and alpinism, which describes the advance in a climbing route , integrated into a climbing rope . The rope, together with the intermediate safety devices laid by the lead climber, serves as protection against falling. The rope can run horizontally (for cross aisles ) or vertically to the person being secured on the stand .
Climbing sport
The lead climb is climbing a climbing route with rope protection from below. This is the most physically and psychologically demanding ascent of a climbing route, as the height of fall in a fall is greater than with all other safety techniques and the effort required to hang the rope in the intermediate safety devices is greater. In addition to his own body weight, the climber may have to bear the weight of the safety equipment used (e.g. quickdraws ) and the weight of the rope when leading. The climbing partner who is securing from the ground (or the standing position) must constantly keep an eye on the lead climber in order to immediately block the rope in the event of a fall and to take measures to avoid being thrown against the wall or lifted out of control.
In the event of a fall, the lead climber falls into the last intermediate protection , or, if no intermediate protection has yet been attached, to the ground or into the standing area . The fall distance is up to about three times the length that the climber is above the last intermediate protection. For example, if the last intermediate belay is five meters below the lead climber, he will fall about 15 meters. The climber falls 10 meters before the rope can tighten. Due to the impact shock elongation of the rope of around 25% and the dynamic securing (rope passage, pulling upwards and against the wall, so that the climbing partner who secures it has no self-belaying), another 5 meters are added in length. The fall length can, however, be influenced by the belayer. In this way, he can shorten it in order to avoid falling from the ground or falling onto an obstacle by coming towards the wall as little as possible. In order to make the fall as soft as possible for climbers and belayers, he can also extend the length of the fall by actively letting himself be pulled by jumping to the wall and the first belay point. This reduces the stress on the lead climber's body (the so-called impact force ).
The maximum fall factor (quotient of fall height and length of the given rope) for lead falls in climbing halls and gardens is 1 (corresponds to a fall on the ground), for multi- pitch routes the maximum fall factor is 2.
Other methods of securing climbing are top rope and descending , in which the safety rope comes from above.
Alpine terrain
An additional risk when falling into an intermediate safety device is inadequate intermediate safety devices in the case of badly placed clamping wedges , friends and rock hooks , as well as weak hourglasses , which can be overloaded and break out in the event of a fall . A redundancy is possible by close spacing of the intermediate fuses, or climbing with two half ropes by adjacent intermediate fuses, each one of the two ropes.
When leading, it is important to only use ropes with sufficient strength, as climbing ropes can no longer absorb the impact force in extreme cases due to aging, heavy and repeated fall loads or wear (on sharp edges or ridges in the material or on the rock). Once the climber has reached a suitable stand and has set it up, the other climbers can follow the rope team in the subsequent ascent .
Secure lead climbing (fall protection) at technical aid organizations
By the term secure lead climbing the referred fire brigade both the horizontal and the vertical advancing in a risk of falling area . In contrast to the lead in the climbing hall, however, the belay device (usually HMS carabiners in the half-mast ) is not attached to the belayer but to a fixed object (a so-called "indirect belay"). This prevents the belayman from being lifted in the event of the person climbing ahead falling. The material required for this is housed in the fall protection equipment set on fire-fighting and aerial rescue vehicles .
See also
- Chest band
- Seat sling
- Belay device
- Lead climbing - descending
- Abseiling - lowering
literature
- Michael Hoffmann , Wolfgang Pohl: Alpine curriculum, volume 2, rock climbing, sport climbing. BLV-Buchverlag, Munich, 2003, ISBN 978-3-405-16182-8 .
- Pit Schubert , Pepi Stückl: Alpine curriculum, volume 5, safety on the mountain, equipment, safety. BLV-Buchverlag, Munich 2003, ISBN 978-3-405-16632-8 .
swell
- ↑ The world of climbing from A to Z - vertical glossary . In: kleben (special supplement) . 2004.
- ↑ Michael Hoffmann, Wolfgang Pohl: Alpine curriculum, Volume 2, rock climbing, sport climbing. BLV-Buchverlag, Munich 2003, p.
- ↑ Walter Fimml, Michael Larcher: Energy is power times way. Security theory basics, part 2 . In: mountaineering . No. 4 , 2000, pp. 18 ( online [PDF; 913 kB ; accessed on February 28, 2008]).
- ↑ Jörg Mezger: Die Roten Hefte, Issue 213 - Fall protection . 2nd Edition. Kohlhammer, Stuttgart 2011, ISBN 978-3-17-021366-1 .
- ↑ "Safe working in areas at risk of falling", training documents from the Frankfurt am Main fire department (as of 2007)
- ↑ Fire brigade regulation 1: Basic activities of fire-fighting and assistance from the Federal Office for Civil Protection and Disaster Relief