Clamping wedge
The clamping wedge is a passive, mobile securing device to set up your own securing points when climbing . To do this, it is placed in a crevice and a carabiner is attached to it.
function
Climbers use mobile safety devices to set up fixed points that are used for intermediate safety or for building stands . They are an important addition to areas that are poorly secured by rock pegs. Normally, they are removed again after the inspection and can be used several times.
A clamping wedge only exerts pressure on the surrounding rock in the event of a fall. In contrast to clamping devices , it is connected to the rock solely through a form fit. It must therefore be placed in a gap that tapers in one direction and can often only be loaded in that direction.
application
Climbers often carry a set of wedges of various sizes with them, from which they select one of the appropriate size and shape. This is inserted in such a way that it jams in the direction of pull that occurs in the event of a fall. Particularly when building a stand, it should be noted that a pull up must also be kept in order to be able to absorb a possible fall of the lead climber . Bracing in the opposite direction could prevent the clamping wedge from turning over and pulling out.
The holding force of a clamping wedge can be low compared to that of a modern drill hook, depending on the nature of the rock and its location. Several copies are therefore occasionally used at critical points in order to create redundancy and distribute the fall force. If the rock is solid and the placement is good, it is called a “ring-valued wedge” - ie the wedge is considered to be as secure as a bolt (ring).
Wedges and clamping devices are particularly suitable for hard rock. Soft rock, such as sandstone , can break if you fall. It is therefore essential for a safe placement that the climber checks the rock quality and adjusts the placement accordingly. If the sandstone is still damp, safety is not guaranteed and the rock can be damaged. In some areas with soft rock (e.g. Elbe sandstone) only knotted loops are allowed.
variants
Depending on the shape, there are different variants, e.g. B. Rocks , Hexentrics , Copperheads , Tricams .
