Bunda (clothing)

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Bunda from Vidin , Bulgaria (1873)
Bunda (left), Hungary 1816
Russians from the Novooskolsky district (2016)

Bunda , also called Suba in the form of a cape , or as pronounced “Schuba”, is the name of a lamb or sheepskin that is often wide, reaching to the ground and worn with the leather side facing outwards. Another, non-landscape-related name for the Bunda is, out of date, nude fur . The word Bunda is relatively new, it appears for the first time in 1723, it comes from the German word "bunt" in the sense of Buntwerk = fur.

Bunda

It is noticeable that Subas and Bundas are hardly mentioned in the old price lists of furriers. It is believed that at that time they were mostly made by the shepherds themselves and not by furriers. These Bundas, which were only prepared with simple methods and not professionally tanned, but “pounded” gave off such an “obnoxious” smell that in 1750 a decree valid for the whole country banned them from being worn in church. When the bunda was still sewn by hand, the furrier used only selected large skins in order to get as few seams as possible. The skins were easily stretched, cut and sewn. One centimeter wide leather strips made of the same material were placed over the seams. The edges were also edged with leather, whereby the second edge of the leather strip was sewn back onto the leather of the fur. Instead, the seams could also be reinforced with a narrow leather bead sewn in with it. There were simple Bunda designs and splendid, colorfully embroidered jackets and coats, depending on income and occasions.

These decorations are among the most interesting works of Hungarian folk ornamentation. The various types of embroidery and applications differ partly from place to place and according to the individual pattern books used by the furriers. These books belonged to the parts to be submitted for the master furrier examination. In addition to the large, mostly floral main motifs, there were also small decorative motifs that were used to cover flaws in the leather. But there were also different motifs for boys, lads and old men. In the past, instead of wool embroidery, there were also applications made of dyed chamois leather , which also ran along the seams of the Bunda. The neckline was usually made of black lambskin .

If the Bunda was only thrown over the shoulder as a cape, a tassel cord was used to close the neck. The buttons were of different shapes, for men’s bodies an elongated shape (such as the toggle button), the round button - its complicated production was kept a secret by the furriers - for women's clothing. The short cape for women was called Kisbunda .

The leather side of the Bunda was either natural, bleached white or dyed. It is believed that white tanning with alum has been known for a very long time. The actual whitening ("kiszépités", embellishment) was done by sprinkling burnt, powdered plaster ("fehér kö", whitening stone) on the skins that were stretched on the "szépitö fa" (embellishment board). The plaster of paris was then rubbed onto the leather side with a knife-like whitening cockroach ("fehéritö kés"). The white pieces of leather required for appliqués and reinforcements were made from the thin, almost hairless parts of the legs (kürschnerisch: Diechen ).

In Russia there was another variant of lambskin, due to the extreme cold. In the tsarist era, the farmer made a distinction between a seat and a feline . The fur for cross-country journeys came down to the knees, had a very low collar, and was wrinkled in the back. The diagonally cut front part was turned over and held with a fabric belt. The seat fur was worn over it, as a windbreak it was equipped with a high stand-up collar.

  • Part of the embroidery of a vest

  • Front of a men's bunda

  • Back
    ( Budapest , Hungary, 1900)

Modern lamb velor and lamb nappa fur

Velouted or napped, the so-called naked furs made of lambskin are nowadays generally an important trade item in the fur industry, hardly ever provided with embroidery. Young people rediscovered lambskins after the two pop stars, the Japanese Yoko Ono and Beatle John Lennon , returned to Europe from a trip from India in the late 1960s with velor lamb coats made there. The term shepherd's coat is often used today for furs based on traditional costumes . The long-haired, coarse-wooled skins of the various types of racket sheep kept in the Balkans are mostly used for this.

In contrast, the classically crafted, high-quality lambskin with the leather side facing outwards is mostly made from merino sheepskins. There are production facilities in Central Europe, among others, and also in Hungary, the country of origin of the Bunda.

See also

Commons : Bundas  - collection of images, videos and audio files

Individual evidence

  1. ^ Meyers Großes Konversations-Lexikon , Volume 3. Leipzig 1905, p. 598 and others
  2. ^ A b c d e Mária Kresz: Popular furrier work . Budapest 1979. ISBN 9631304191
  3. ↑ Alexander Tuma: Pelzlexikon XVII. Tape. Verlag Alexander Tuma, Vienna 1949, keyword "Nacktfurze"
  4. ↑ Dr. Eva Nienholdt: Men's pelts in folk costumes : In: Das Pelzgewerbe Jg. XVII / New Series 1966 No. 3, p. 131
  5. ↑ Günter Gall: Trachtenlook in fur and its role models . In: Die Pelzwirtschaft No. 12, December 1968, Berlin, p. 15.
  6. ↑ Eva Nienholdt: Fur in the folk and national costumes . In: Das Pelzgewerbe No. 1, 1958, Verlag Dr. Paul Schöps, Berlin et al., P. 31
  7. ^ Marie Louise Steinbauer, Rudolf Kinzel: Marie Louise Pelze . Steinbock Verlag, Hannover 1973, p. 196.