Zippel fur

from Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia
Adam as a farmer in the primal zippel fur.
In a medieval depiction
("Dance of Death", Hans Holbein the Younger)

Zippelfur or Zipfelfurz refers to a former peasant winter coat made of lambskin or goatskin with an elongated hem at the front and back (tailcoat tails). The general term for coats worn with the leather side facing outwards is nude fur , which is rarely called this today (instead, a velor lamb coat, corresponding to the modern finishing of the leather side). The name Zippelfurz and also the shape with the two laps were found mainly in Eastern Germany (Upper Lusatia, Silesia) and Eastern Europe. The term was also mentioned for lambskin clothing for other places, for example for an apparently similar underwear of the Cossacks , which is part of the annual pay .

The fur , which reached to the ankles , was mostly made of sheepskin, and was worn on the outside unlined with the leather. It was decorated with sewn cords on the sleeves and body. The description that Ernst Willkomm gave of the pointed fur once worn by farmers in Upper Lusatia also applies to the Silesian one. He wrote: “Most of them walked in so-called pointed pelts made of white and black sheepskins, which were quilted without a cover, but were neatly quilted, and especially at the waist with broad decorations made of beautiful straps of red leather. These furs, depending on their age, were sometimes snow-white in appearance, sometimes brownish, sometimes tan, sometimes completely black, and the latter shone as if they had waxed their owners. They came down to the ankles, but when they opened up in front, they bared sturdy legs, clad in boots, to the knees, from which the thick stockings were still pulled up halfway through the thigh. On the left side in the area of ​​the hip all these furs had a slit that you could go through. At the lower end of it flashed a large, polished brass button, and a pair of mittens dangled from it, but so that only one hung on the outside and the other on the inside. These gloves were made of beautiful fur for the wealthy and old, and for the less well-to-do and younger they were made of woven wool. "

Early forerunners of the zippel fur

Stone Age women in pointed bell skirts (rock paintings by Cogul)
Sheepskin Cape the wife of Huldre Fen , a bog body from the second century BC. Chr.

One of the original pieces of clothing of the peoples was a cloak-like cover made of animal fur, which can already be deduced from the Upper Paleolithic (around 40,000 years ago to the end of the last cold period around 9700 BC). It consisted of a scarcely trimmed fur blanket that was worn loosely over the shoulders. Partly up to the 20th century this form was preserved in clothing among the Tierra del Fuego Indians as well as the common population and in traditional costumes of the rural areas of Hungary, Slovakia and Carpathian Russia. It was customary to wear the wraps with the hair facing inwards in winter, and with the hair facing outwards in summer.

On the stone-age rock carvings in Cogul in northern Spain, women are dressed in long bell skirts that show a front and a back lap at the performance of a ceremonial dance. Since the Upper Paleolithic, this twofold aspect has remained the special feature of traditional fur clothing from all parts of the world. A costume resulting from the natural fur shape can also be found with a similar look in the seal parka of the Eskimos .

At an early stage, slit throws were used by cutting a hole in the skins so that the head could be pushed through. As a result, the cloak could no longer slip down and the wearer could move arms and hands freely. This form, known as a poncho , is spread over all five continents and the Indonesian islands. In the Germanic culture, slit throws are an integral part of clothing. The Salzburg antiphonary from the 12th century, for example, depicts two shepherds proclaiming the birth of Christ, the one on the right wearing a “baita”, a shoulder wrap in the style of a poncho (Old High German peeping ), made of skins with two tips. The slit cover experienced a particular heyday in the 14th century in a form up to ankle length as a tappert . The baita in the folk costumes of the Eastern Alps has been preserved for a particularly long time as a “weather stain” or “ puke ”.

The zippel fur

Inhabitants of Chornobyl , Northern Ukraine (1848)
Kashubians

At the beginning of the Hallstatt period (around 800 to 500 BC) the warm and dry climate of Central Europe ended, and clothing also changed significantly. The light and loose wrap-around costumes no longer met the demands, the clothing became closer to the body. The open sides of the slit throws were sewn up, and sleeves were probably also fitted around the same time. The lug-like laps were preserved, as can still be seen in numerous illustrations.

Even if the tipped fur can be detected in many places in Europe, including the courtly costume, it is mainly found in the folk costume of the East German-West Slavonic border area, where many other traditional forms had long been preserved. The pronunciation “Zippel”, with -pp- instead of the written “Zipfel”, indicates an East Central German origin.

As the simplest item of clothing in Hungary, the owner tied the prepared fur on the back, the back fur, the Kacagány. The kacagány of the nobles and soldiers was made of finer fur, otherwise the back fur was a sheepskin. It was still so common at the beginning of the 19th century that children in the Great Hungarian Plain carried it to school. The collar with feet, claws and tail of the lamb worn on the shuba, a sheepskin jacket of the Hungarian shepherds, is a remnant of this back fur. The counterpart of the back fur is the breast fur, a piece of fur that is tied in front of the chest and not cut to size. The shepherds of the Hungarian Hortobágy wore both chest and back fur during their work. The zippel fur is perhaps a holdover from this ancient form.

In the inventory of the probably not particularly wealthy master furrier, who died in 1582, there were 33 large and 14 small zippel pelts, the piece of 27 gr., 10 zippel pelts without sleeves, the piece of 20 gr., 1 goat zipped pelt 15 gr. And 1 zippel fur of 9 gr. In 1589, the Wroclaw furriers were ordered by their guild that zippel fur should not be made with lilies, hearts or any other decorations. The background to this provision was probably to protect the colleagues who were not able to produce such elaborate work, which is common in parts of Eastern Europe. The master associations, especially in small towns, also used such regional restrictions to have foreign fair feeders also forbid the sale of such “new fashions” that are “not in use” as far as possible.

Another early source of the term zippel fur can be found in the "poems of meaning" by Friedrich von Logaus (* 1604; † 1655):

You rascal, you farmer! such dainty title
Did the warriors worship the peasant in the middle;
Now warriors entered into orders of zippel fur;
Have these titles become owners.

It can be seen that the Zippelfur was so widespread among the peasantry at the time of Logau that it could become their hallmark. How in the Middle Ages farmers were called "beltz gebûre" ("fur farmers") after their characteristic sheepskin, the author speaks here ironically of a "zippel fur order". An inventory of the inheritance of a furrier in Mährisch-Trübau from this time shows 31 pieces of "Zipfl pelt" with a value of 20 groschen each. Since, according to a simultaneous inventory, a prepared sheepskin cost 9 groschen, one can conclude that each zippel fur consisted of two sheepskins that covered the chest and back. Since only two groschen remain for the labor costs and possible ingredients, it must have been a very simple design, especially since better furs with far higher amounts were charged in the same inventory.

The gown-like archetype of the zippel fur was probably no longer alive in any East German landscape at the end of the 19th century. The most primitive form was found among the Central Moravian Hannaks . At the end of the 18th century, Franz Josef Schwoy still owned “a so-called zippel fur made of sheepskin, which has no other opening than a wide one at the bottom, through which he crawls in with his arms stretched out, and a narrower one at the top through which he sticks out his head. Such a fur has sleeves and both at the back and at the front a narrow, drooping zip; and this robe reaches down to half of his thigh. "

In a song that sings about the Hannakische folk costume, it is said of this zippel fur:

Kožožek veševane, s dvoma ocaskama.
"An embroidered fur with two tails".

The Czech costume researcher Renata Tyršová describes the Hanoverian garment as a primitive bare fur with two tips of fur and colorful embroidery on the chest. If you follow a drawing by Josef Hanika , then this version of the zippel fur had a straight hem with a foxtail attached to the front and back. A description from the year 1810 reported from the Hungarian county of Neutra that they make “unheard of large furs” from “raw skins”, “such a bunda is an“ enormous tip fur ””.

Despite its poor furnishings, the zippel fur was one of the farmer's most valuable items of clothing. A song about the peasant misery in Graz - the term was also known here in the southeast of German vernacular - complains:

Both the friend and the enemy
Pluck the farmer's feet,
The zippel fur must give today
Tomorrow it's time to give d'Juppn.

After the hems of the peasant lambskin pelts were no longer left naturally pointed, the origin of the word was largely forgotten. Even a respected German scholar and folklorist, Karl Weinhold , wrongly assumed as early as 1855 that the word “zippel” originally meant “lamb's tail” and that the zippel fur was named after it was made from lamb's tails.

Quotes

  • Liese, dear Liese, don't be so bizarre, lend me your corner fur, so that I don't frieze.
  • The zippel fur. A twosong between father and son. Orally, from the Grünberg area in Silesia.
Son: “Voater, please eat Zippelfurz! Voater, look forward to Zippelfurz! Druben Saigers Michel, yes ba moaner sickle! Dar has thick zippel fur on the right. "
Father: “Boy, you're not krigking a zippel fur this year! Gih norrn to Herr Pfoarrn, Dar it was nice to you son, Dar was you nice to read Ploaneta! "
Son: “Woas gihn mer than de Ploaneta ann, On'n Brustloatz hang de Zumpen; De Jack is nothing but rags, I can never give me verr de Loite. "
Father: "Boy, here I am now again, Dar winter is gone, S'is su goar slack time: You are still hovering in the breast."
Son: "Voater, I don’t get any zippel fur, well, you’ve already been creamy, you can take care, I was under de soloat!"
Father: "Boy - I know I can dig sticks! This is too strong. Do mer'sch no to oargk With thick, starved zippel fur! "
Son: "You can't create a Zippelfurz: if it's Summer sain, Un de Sunne schain'n, Dernäach - - - in oiren Zippelfurz!"
(oa = a; kooft = buys, druben = up; Saigers = the (wood) saw; hoier = this year, this year; norr = only; Pfoarrn = pastor; schun = already; soahn = 1) see, 2) say; de Ploaneta read = to say the future, to interpret (at the Silesian fairs very popular fonts were sold under the name of "planets"); Zumpen = scraps; Loite = people; gihn = go, here = listen; sly = bad; wu = if).
  • It is written by Peter, Volkstümliches aus Oesterreichisch-Schlesien 1 , 337 fg. communicated texts are very close and can be corrected several times from the same.
Battle a "la Back, Eeeft mer ock en Jerk or anen thick Zippelfurz.
Father: No, it's a real sulfur boy, A whole day goes to a rim.
But it was you, it wasn’t happened. You're krigging no zippel fur this year.
Son: If you do me ken zippelfur keefa, would I not get the loada,
If you don't do it, you can keep it luhn, and I'll plop you on a zippel fur.
  • A little later, but still at a time when no other bird besides the sparrow thinks of loving joys, the great tit (Parus major L.) beeps its "Zippelfur, Zippelfurz, Zippelfurz" at all corners and ends of the low mountain villages. A bird that is well known there because of its numerous appearances, nobody knows it by its real name. The great tit is just called Zippelfur, after its mating call, which actually sounds like the quickly pronounced word Zippelfurz.
  • A medieval joke puzzle:
The furriers in Silesia are great artists, for they are preparing a leather bath-room with a rough door on it. One is in it, two are hanging for it. Guess what that is: A Zippelfurz, because the Pauer sweats in it, like in a bathing room. Such a fur is rough at the front, and a zipple is attached to it at the back and front.

In the German dictionary of the brothers Jacob and Wilhelm Grimm

Southeast European clothing peddler. The lambskins are now often elaborately embroidered and testify to the greater prosperity of the peasantry. The hem is now always straightened (1860s)

ZIPFELFELZ, male, a fur worn as an upper skirt; 'Its name comes from the lapels hanging down at the back and front, resulting from the natural shape of the two ram skins from which the zippel fur (front and back) is sewn together'; earlier descriptions inaccurate or divergent: 'melota, tunica pellicea, because two tips hang down on the back of these upper fur'; 'a fur from which two tails hang down on its back'; 'a fur made of long-haired sheepskin on which the wool stands in tails or tufts'; 'a fur lined with lambs tails, the favorite clothes of the rural population' mitt. Silesian]. zippelfur, m., 'a fur with the tips or tails of the animals from whose fur it is made'; whipped fur tunica ovilla; pellis lanata (Nuremberg); 'a shaggy fur coat, formerly the peculiar costume of the Nuremberg redsmiths'; 'a fur coat with pendulous tips' (1575); rheno ... lined röckgen zippel- or body belt; zippelbelz tunica talaris pellicea; zippelbeltz pellicia lunga di code e di dossi di pelle; zippelpeltz, body peltz robba ò veste foderata di pelle, robe fourrée; rheno ... zippelbeltz; pointed fur and camisole de peaux de mouton; When the people have sat down at table and want to have their meal, the meuse crawled up on the benches and ate their pelt from behind;

the winter wants to be true to the cold
we put on zippelbeltze
Blümml two;
Bees, who otherwise wear zippel fur, will be used to seal wax,
willingly spice;
They also appeared on the set day, but all of them in curls, like our dress to be Flederwisch d. schles. zipfelpeltz (approx. 1750) 41;
Liese, dear Liese,
don't be so upset
lend me your tail fur,
that I do not frieze alamod.
every daughter is as good as her mother in a fur
a distilled bending iron
a zippelpeltz of 100 mice;
a foreign businessman who wants to show himself with his truth
must climb on his wagon in the most beautiful zippel pelvis;
Petrarcha ... who wrote his ideas on his tail fur; one inferred from this as the rest of domestic cleanliness, which corresponds in everything to the suit of this people, the winter and summer in a zippel fur, coarse long trousers and tangled head hair; zippelfur is equal to dome fur (Erzgeb.-Vogtl.). in addition the composition of the eared fur:
you rascal, you farmer! such a dainty title
the warriors worshiped the peasant in the middle;
now warriors entered the zippelpeltz order,
have you become this title owner?

See also

Commons : Zippelfurz  - Collection of images, videos and audio files

supporting documents

  1. ^ Francis Weiss : Furs in Archeology. In: Pelz International. April 1980, p. 244.
  2. ^ Francis Weiss: Furs in Archeology. In: Marco - Information from the Fränkische Pelzindustrie Märkle & Co, 1988 (English).
  3. ^ A b Anton Peter: Popular things from Austrian Silesia. Past and present life of oppa traders. Pp. 152-153. Retrieved June 19, 2015.
  4. ↑ “An impartial pen”: Curious description of the Moldau and Wallachey, in which the same condition and condition etc. have been presented . Hamburg 1699. Chapter The IX. Question . Retrieved July 4, 2015.
  5. ↑ Johann Huebner: Kurtze questions from the new and old geography: bit to the present time continued, and with ... introduction to the beginners, also with a preface from the best country charts . P. 740. Retrieved July 4, 2015.
  6. ↑ Bruno Schier, p. 53. Primary source Hugo Obermaier: Diluvial fur treatment - research and progress 16 . 1940, p. 89 ff.
  7. ↑ Bruno Schier p. 53: Cf. M. Gusinde: The Tierra del Fuego Indians . Vienna 1931, Kazmierz Moszyṅski, Kultura ludowa Slowian, Krakau 1929, p. 439, fig. 399.
  8. ↑ Bruno Schier, S. 53. Primary source Hugo Obermaier: The man of the past . Berlin 1912, p. 434, fig. 258; Max Ebert: Real Lexicon of Prehistory . VI, p. 382.
  9. ↑ a b Bruno Schier: The "Zippelpelz", an ancient fur skirt [in the table of contents deviating: ancient garment ] in East Germany. In: Bruno Schier: Furs from an ancient perspective . Publishing house Dr. Paul Schöps, Frankfurt am Main 1951, pp. 52-62.
  10. ^ A b Mária Kresz: Popular Hungarian furrier work . (= Hungarian folk art. 9). Corvina, Budapest 1979, ISBN 963-13-0419-1 , pp. 11-12, 28.
  11. ^ Fritz Wiggert: Origin and development of the old Silesian furrier trade with special consideration of the furrier guilds in Breslau and Neumarkt . Breslauer Kürschnerinnung (Ed.), 1926, pp. 115,169, 170 ( → book cover and table of contents ).
  12. ↑ Bruno Schier, p. 57. On a Grazer “Fliegende Blatt” from the 18th century. Secondary source Karl Weinhold: Contributions to a Silesian dictionary . Vienna 1855, p. 68.
  13. ^ Bruno Schier, p. 58. Primary source Franz Josef Schwoy : Topography of Moravia . Vienna 1793, I, p. 28.
  14. ↑ Renata Tyrsova: Lidový kroj v Čechách, na Moravě a ve Sleszku . Prague 1916, p. 50.
  15. ↑ Bruno Schier, p. 64. Caption: Hannake and Kaschube with Zippelfurzen from the end and the beginning of the 19th century . Note: The Kashubian wears a double-sided skirt with no tails, as shown above.
  16. ↑ Bruno Schier, p. 59. Primary source Weinhold p. 68.
  17. ↑ Alamod. techn. interim (1675), 436.
  18. ↑ Ludwig Erk, Wilhelm Heinrich Irmer, Johannes Koepp: The German folk songs, with their ways of singing. Volume 2 (Google eBook), pp. 88-89. --- Compare also the coarser version: http: //www.forgottenbooks.com,/ Mitteilungen der Schlesische Gesellschaft für Volkskunde ( Memento of the original from July 6, 2015 in the Internet Archive ) Info: The archive link has been inserted automatically and has not yet been checked . Please check the original and archive link according to the instructions and then remove this notice. , Pp. 674-675. Retrieved June 17, 2015. @1@ 2Template: Webachiv / IABot / www.forgottenbooks.com
  19. ^ Messages from the Silesian Folklore Society. ( Memento of the original from July 6, 2015 in the Internet Archive ) Info: The archive link was inserted automatically and has not yet been checked. Please check the original and archive link according to the instructions and then remove this notice. Pp. 674-675. Retrieved June 17, 2015.  @1@ 2Template: Webachiv / IABot / www.forgottenbooks.com
  20. ↑ biostor.org: Bird life in the German-Bohemian low mountain range ( Memento from July 6, 2015 in the Internet Archive ). Retrieved July 4, 2015.
  21. ^ Fritz Wiggert: Origin and development of the old Silesian furrier trade with special consideration of the furrier guilds in Breslau and Neumarkt . Breslauer Kürschnerinnung (Ed.), 1926, p. 7.
  22. ^ German dictionary by Jacob and Wilhelm Grimm . 16 volumes in 32 sub-volumes. Leipzig 1854–1961.
  23. ↑ Hanika in: forsch u. forward 13, 218a (with illustration).
  24. ↑ Frisch 2, 479c
  25. ↑ Adelung2 4, 1724; Krünitz eco. encycl. 241 (1858) 525
  26. ↑ Campe 5, 873b
  27. ↑ volkskde 20, 80
  28. ^ Anton Oberlausitz 15, 20
  29. ↑ Serz folk expressions (1797) 182
  30. ↑ Frommann German maa. 6, 266
  31. ↑ Fischer Schwäb. 6, 3488
  32. ↑ Corvinus fons lat. (1623) 658
  33. ↑ Stieler stemb. (1691) 467
  34. ↑ Kramer T.-Ital. 1 (1700) 79b
  35. ↑ Rädlein d.-Ital.-Frz. (1711) 1096b
  36. ↑ Kirsch cornu copiae (1718) 946
  37. ↑ Diefenbach gl. 492b
  38. ↑ Swan nouv. dict. (1783) 2, 1110a; see. zimpelz (sp. 1361)
  39. ↑ Aelurius glaciographia (1625) 401
  40. ↑ Leipz. liederhs. of the 17th century (1910) 77
  41. ↑ Logau s. sinnged. 611 lit. ver.
  42. ↑ techn. interim (1675) 436
  43. ↑ Corvinus (Amaranthes) fruits d. poesie (1720) 474. Amusing list of household items: [Vol. 31, col. 1559.]
  44. ↑ Henrici seriously, jokingly. u. satire. ged. (1727) 1, 457
  45. ↑ Senftleben breszl. kitchen list (1732)) (1b
  46. ↑ Kästner verm. Schr. 1 (1755) 251; Kretschmann sw (1784) 6, 316
  47. ↑ Hammard's journey through Upper Silesia (1787) 23
  48. ↑ zs. f. German maa. (1914) 158
  49. ↑ Logau s. sinnged. 343 lit. ver