Goatskin

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Reversible coats, microfibre with small pieces of fur made of fox fur and long-haired goat fur (2004)

Goat skins are traded as fur . The skins of young domestic goats are mainly used for fur processing ; they are sold as kid skins .

Goatskin

The goat is kept mainly for the goat meat , an additional use is the fur or leather, goat milk and hair ( angora goat ; mohair ). Wild goat skins are only occasionally used as decorative skins ( hunting trophies ).

The goat hair is stiff and there is little undercoat. Only soft-haired varieties with good undercoat ("fur goats") are suitable for fur purposes. Usually the hides are only used as leather because of the unappealing hairiness.

The durability coefficient for kid and goat skins is given as 20 to 60 percent. Another list puts the durability at 23 percent and places it at the 31st position of an incomplete durability scale, which traditionally begins with the fur of the sea ​​otter , which is assumed to be the most durable , and here ends with the hare fur at the 41st position. When the fur animals are divided into the hair fineness classes silky, fine, medium-fine, coarse and hard, the kid and goat hair is classified as coarser.

history

Theater scene with actors in goat skin costumes. Roman mosaic from the floor of the tablinum in Pompeii.

Even before cattle, as early as the 7th millennium BC, goats were kept as pets and the skins were made into clothing.

Around 2000 BC In parts of Palestine the dead were not yet embalmed, but in a custom dating back to prehistoric times, skins were used to bury the dead. In the well-known story of Sinuhe (approx. 1900 BC) it is told that Pharaoh Sesostris I (approx. 1980–1935 BC) wrote to his escaped court official: “It should not be that you are in a foreign country die and the Asians bury you by sewing your body in a goat skin ”.

Hunting paletots made from goat with gray fox collar and from seal.
From the article (1902): In addition to the goat or wolf paletot (not shown), which often makes its wearer appear like a prehistoric man, the most elegant models are made from cheap material.
Goatskin motorist coats (1900)

The maximum price edict from the year 301 AD of the Roman Emperor Diocletian states the following fur prices (in brackets in Roman numerals ), the exceeding of which was threatened with the death penalty:

raw lambskin or kidskin 40 drachmas (XL)
tanned lambskin or kidskin 16 drachmas (XVI)
large raw goatskin 40 drachmas (XL)
large tanned goatskin 50 drachmas (L)
Blanket made of 8 goatskins 333 drachmas (CCCXXXIII)

In comparison, a raw sheepskin cost up to XX (= 20) drachmas.

In Greek mythology, Aigis is a golden goat skin used by Zeus, but sometimes also by Athena or Apollo. If you shake it, it sends thunder and lightning to the earth. The Libyan priestesses of Athena wore the aigis as goat skin aprons.

Hesiod advised in the 7th century BC At the beginning of the cold season of the year, young kidskins were sewn together with ox tendons in order to wear them over the shoulders as protection and to gird them around the loins with a strap. He recommended a well-fitting pilos (fur hat) as headgear. - Greek slaves wore the katonake, a goat or sheepskin wrap .

Cato the Elder was praised for using goat skins instead of bedspreads as a role model to educate the citizens of Rome to be moderate. Also in Rome, “the wives ran to meet Lupercis as priests of their idol Pan and allowed themselves to be beaten in public with skins and sacrificed goats, in the opinion that this would promote fertility for them and bring the pregnant women an easy and happy birth hour”.

Inflated goatskins and sheepskins were not only used in Mesopotamia until the last century as so-called "swimming bags", individually tied together for passenger transport or 50–1600 pieces tied together and covered with boards as reliable transport rafts, because they bend with the wave almost like fish and slide, at most with the loss of an easily replaceable sheepskin, over obstacles on which fixed boats would crash (Ewald Banse, Turkey , Braunschweig 1915).

Reconstruction of Ötzi, the man from Tisenjoch

In 1991 the body of the man from Tisenjoch (" Ötzi ") was found, who lived about 3340 years BC. Lived. He was dressed in a striped jacket made of brown and white goatskin. His trousers were also made of goat and resemble the trousers of the North American Indians, as sewing thread he used animal tendons. The glacier mummy from the late Neolithic Age has been exhibited in the South Tyrolean Archaeological Museum in Bolzano since March 1998 .

In areas that are not particularly suitable for agricultural production, the sale of the skins of frugal goats represents an important income for the poorer population if there is a corresponding demand. In 1936 a specialist fur magazine reported:

“China has an extraordinary wealth of sheep and goats. In most provinces, sheep and goat breeding is considered a sideline to agriculture. On average, every small farmer has at least two sheep and goats. The animals grow quickly, the feed costs nothing, and keeping them requires very little work. The province of Szechuan alone has approximately 17 million animals. Every year around 5 million of them are slaughtered. The goat skins are bought by the traders and collected in Kueichwo , in the south and east and brought to the export via Chunking . Exports from this province alone have reached a value of 2.5 million dollars in recent years. "

- The tobacco market

Brass explains in 1925 about Chinese goatskin blankets, one of China's oldest export articles : They are dyed in England. Goat rugs are about 300,000 to 400,000 in the trade with a value of 6 to 12 marks per piece.

In the middle of the 18th century, Saxony supplied most of the goat skins in Germany that were processed into fur lining. In more recent times, goat skins have mostly only been used regionally as shepherds' furs and as so-called "driver furs" for carters. Ferdinand Gregorovius reported in "Wanderjahre in Italien" (from 1852 to 1891) that the shepherds wore goat skins tied around their legs, with their hair facing outwards: This shaggy fleece gives them the appearance of satyrs ... They were no different Shepherds Dressed in the Fabulous Time. But even in 1970 it was stated in a quote, Even today, long or half-length furs from goat skins that reach to the knees and are worn with the leather on the outside are widespread in the poorer population of Southeastern European and Asian countries . In a fur history review of the beginnings of modern fur fashion, in which one began to wear furs with the hair facing outwards, it was said: Before, with a few exceptions, which always referred to dark material ( Seal , Persianer ) - only wore them The southern French next to Astrakhan- Taluppen [fur pajamas] , the Swiss dark brown and Chinese gray goats to the outside world, for which they were much ridiculed. The use of natural gray goat skins in particular for coachman collars and sled rugs naturally came to an end with advancing motorization.

A London fur finisher reported that during the First World War he was to receive a major order from the army for goatskin coats. It turned out, however, that the long-haired, shaggy skins soaked in the rainstorms of Flanders with water that the coats did not represent protection, but a hindrance for the soldiers. Even short shearing with quickly purchased sheep shearing machines did not bring about sufficient improvement. Only other clippers and an additional coloring with the blue color of the wood Campecheholzes , which are brought in by ship from the East Indies had brought the desired success.

The Richard Lindner tobacco dye works in Leipzig boasted that during the period of inflation (1914–1918) it was the first dye works to dye kidskins with the new Ursol dyes and thus created “the new inexpensive kid”.

When, after the years of inflation, the fashion of large, wide fox necklaces emerged and the natural-colored American wolf skins became too expensive, silky, soft furrier goats from the Martin company in London in brown coloring were used instead, they were soft in the leather and therefore easy to work with. Probably the first to introduce the material in Germany was Eisner, a smoker from Berlin . Although the result was heavy and misshapen, necklaces made by German fur refiners from the locally produced goat skins, fur necklaces , fur stoles and collars , which were of much poorer quality , were also sold in blue-gray, fashionable colors. The main customers were Poland, Austria and Germany. The “colossal boom” in goat skin fashion lasted for two years, “in Germany all women ran around with the awkward goat foxes - a real aberration of taste”, then it was replaced by opossum fashion .

Brass wrote in 1925 about Russian goats, which were not dealt with below, that the dense and long-haired "bear goat" was made into trimmings and blankets; this and the common goat are used on a large scale in Russia for the production of naked furs for the muzhiks , both long furs and so-called half furs, which then reach the waist down to the knee. The leather is stained yellowish brown and is often finely sewn or embroidered. Such furs cost 3 to 12 rubles 3 to 4 years ago. A single Moscow house delivers over 100,000 such furs annually. By the way, all these goat pelts have a sharp unpleasant smell. Up until after the First World War, there were a number of German companies that were involved in the manufacture of stroller covers , car covers , footmuffs , etc. and thus achieved considerable sales. There were such companies in Berlin (Heinr. Gast, Straßburg & Fuchs), in Rostock (Kranstöver, Vick & Steinbrück), in Dresden (Arthur M. Grund) etc. Even in the 1930s, major cities like Paris, Street vendors with their whole arm full of goatskin blankets sell them to passers-by. The fur blanket business was supplanted by the cheaper offers of woven blankets.

Trade and Origin

Dayak warriors (Borneo) with goatskin throw. The shield with captured human hair (1912)

South America

Large amounts of fur come from Argentina, the best from Córdoba and Santiago del Estero (short-haired). Long-haired but qualitatively somewhat weaker goods come from Alta , Jujuy , San Juan and San Luis . Short-haired skins also come from Buenos Aires , Pampas , Neuquen and Rio Negro .

The strong and long-haired winter coats are delivered as "pampas"; “Desechas” are faulty skins. Otherwise, the qualities are differentiated according to weight, Nonatos (the lightest, under 130 grams), Cabritos (kids), Cabrillonas (shoe fawn), Cabras, Chivos (goats and bucks; over 1350 grams per piece).

The goat skins from Cordoba can be recognized by their broad position; they are long-legged and with heads in the trade. The roughly 60 percent flat-haired pelts from Bolivia are air-dried. Only a few dry-salted pelts come from Chile.

Europe

  • In 1956, a German manual for the skin trade lists dry Greek kid skins as well as air- dry kid skins and dry billy goat skins from Norway for Europe . The Norwegian billy goat skins were 5 to 8 square feet in size, and the hair was mostly long and bare.
  • The best skins from Turkey come from the Erzerum , Kars and Malatya areas . They are usually red-brown or gray, with fine scars, often with parasite damage.
The pelts of the white, curly-haired Angora goat from Asia Minor were once exported to Constantinople , where they were used as seats for Muslim religious teachers. In Europe they were, however, rarely made into saddlecloths (before 1840). When, however, the Gremper (small traders) took over the guild house of the furriers in 1486 or 1487, they called it "zum Kämbelthier", which meant the camel or angora goat from the coat of arms adopted by the furriers. The furriers used not only the fur, but also the skin tanned into saffiano or corduan leather . In a look back from 1929 it says: “Like hardly any other material, this offered the Kürsners the opportunity for some worthwhile work, because it was not only the tailor who created these leather garments: these belonged entirely to the domain of the Kürsner or Nearer ”.
  • The smaller Black Sea goats show even greater parasite damage.
  • The Orenburg goat was bred in the 19th century in order to obtain a long and soft coat with fine downy hair for wool production.
  • Swiss goats are usually suitable for fur purposes, they have a good shine, uniform color and hairline.
  • The German tobacco shop divided goat skins into quality classes A and B (as of 1951). Quality class A is described as follows: “ Salted and dry, medium-sized to large goats with medium-smoke to smoky hair, but not woolly and not crooked. The leather side should be free of slaughter cuts, holes and beetle damage. The fur itself should not be too thick and should not have any shaggy grot hairs . Care must be taken to ensure perfect conservation. "

In 1762 it is said about the skins of the chamois , which are native to the Alps : “Generally they cannot serve the furrier for anything other than footmuffs”.

Cut Russian goat for a driver's collar (1895)

Asia

  • China . Skins from goats about one year old with their upper hair plucked were traded as Mongolian mouflons , Mongolian goats, or Russian mouflons . As is often the case with fur names, the geographical addition, here "Russian", only indicates the earlier trade route to the world markets. But the term “mouflon” is also incorrect, the mouflon is a wild sheep . The Leipzig tobacco shop Arthur Hermsdorf said that the plucked Chinese goats, if he was properly instructed, were first brought onto the market in large quantities by the companies Finkelstein , Platky, Harmelin and Erler around 1890, “in their natural state, the one now three ago Years (approx. 1938?) Similar to Klondyke stripes [= dog fur ] that appeared as a novelty , cut into approx. 15 cm wide stripes in order to conceal the origin as much as possible ”.

Mongolian or Chinese goat skins have long, silky and thick hair. The pelts of annual animals are plucked so that only the soft, shiny undercoat remains. The summer skins are tanned into leather. The winter fur, which is particularly light after the awning, is bleached or dyed and processed into trimmings and blankets. Imitations of English grenadier caps , which are otherwise made from baribal fur (black bear), are also made from it.

In north and north-east China, especially in Shanxi , Shaanxi and Manchuria , so-called “Chinese goat rugs” were worked around 1900, which were made up of two skins with medium-length hair. With 600,000 to 800,000 blankets a year with an average value of four marks at that time, they represented an important trade item in Europe and America. The main centers of this industry were Kalgan , Kwei Wa Chen and Mukden . The remaining hides were exported for leather production, especially to France.

In contrast to other types of fur , the flat summer pelts of Chinese goats are considered to be the most valuable.

Goat skin as an application in mink velvet (work sample, 2008)
North China ( Tientsin goat) (in general, before the introduction of modern means of transport, these were the skins that were exported via the port of Tientsin, from the districts of Honan, Shensi, Shansi, Kansu, Sinkiang, Suiuen, Chili, Innere Mongolia and Fengtien).
It is from here that the largest furs come, especially from Manchuria. About half are black, 20% white and 30% colorful. The annual export around 1900 was around 2½ to 3 million pieces, in 1928 1½ to 2½ million.
Central China
The skins are a little smaller; about 80% are white. Ban Kaos is the name for plucked goat skins that come from the province of Zhejiang (in the Chekiang tobacco shop) in eastern China, the unplucked skins were traded as Chinese or Mongolian mouflons.
Shantung , Honan , Albin ( Poochow goat).
Like the skins from northern China, but thick-leather.
Around 1900 about 1 million skins known as untanned Riverport goatskins were exported annually, at least the same number was tanned white in the country and processed by the Chinese themselves. Since goat skins were traded by weight, the already badly treated and heavily soiled skins were often additionally provided with thick crusts of dirt.
Around 2 million skins were exported annually from the Hankow goat at that time.
Kalgan
They are variously considered to be the best quality. Large skins with thick, very even hair.
Newchwang
Long-haired skins than Kalgans with a poorly developed undercoat, the quality is estimated to be 10 to 15% worse. There are white, gray and black skins. They are sold as plates or tablets (goatskin plates, size 75 × 150 cm). Around 1950 the skins were trimmed outdoors after the frost period. They were then sorted into sizes according to the Chinese size Li (里), which were stamped in large letters on the leather side at the end of the fur.

Another variety, falsely traded as "mouflon", comes from Central Asia, earlier also from mountain goats from the southeastern Soviet Union ( Kazakhstan , Bukejewski *). They were also only offered plucked. Kazan , the capital of Tatarstan ( Tatarstan ), was famous for its "mouflon" refinement.
* Place name "Bukejewski" unclear, possibly different spelling.

Africa

Mostly from Namibia. Flat-haired, also only partially usable for fur purposes.

No exact figures could be determined in 1988 about the world incidence of goat skins.

use

A study carried out in 1951 establishes evaluation criteria for goat skins, which are differentiated according to their suitability for the various finishing options , especially for dyeing other, more noble types of skin.

  • Minkilla and blue ore : This requires pure white, medium-smoke, smooth pelts that are well covered up to the sides, with not too hard and not very shaggy guard hair, which have no rubbed areas and are not moiré. Woolly goats are unsuitable for this, as is Stückler (heavily damaged skins).
  • Kronenzobel : As for blue ore, smooth skins, which may also have slight urine stains, but no pieces,
  • Sable : This is done by sorting flat, medium-smoke and smoking monochrome white or light brown goats with a light undercoat, but no munchies.
  • Sable with grot (darker back center) : As for sable color, but deer-colored skins and skins with already darker grunts can also be sorted.
  • Ocelot and leopard : Flat, hard-haired skins without an undercoat, which may be slightly rubbed, are used here.
  • Black : Everything that cannot be sorted into the other colors, goats of all colors including checked goods, flat and different smokes.
  • Velor : Soft, thin-leather goats that do not show any damage to the leather side are suitable for velouting. The hair can be woolly or smoky, but not too tough. The largest attack comes from mostly raw salted goods.
  • Unsuitable for dyeing : Wooly, leather-damaged and strong-leather, hard-haired skins of all colors as well as very strong stalks are sorted out.
  • Natural shot : Here, bald, heavily corroded, very sparse and strong pieces can be used if necessary.

There was also a division according to the suitability of the skins for the various possible colors and for a velouting of the leather side.
Depending on the size, the goat skins were sorted into bunches of 8 to 14 pieces. The classification according to size, measured from head to tail, noticeably narrow skins are classified one class lower:

  • oversized = over 100 cm
  • large = from 85 to 100 cm
  • medium = from 70 to 85 cm
  • small = from 55 to 70 cm

Goatskin is rarely used for furs as above. Strong varieties were also sheared for a short time. A major reason for the low usage is the poor durability of the easily broken hair. The processors also often had difficulties removing the strong odor of the German goats kept in stalls.

Gaida , Bulgarian goat skin bagpipes (2010)

However, very long-haired skins come from China, which have been processed again into small parts, trimmings and trimmings for several years (2011). The leather is usually very hard, so the skins are preferably cut into narrow strips and mixed with other materials. The result is reminiscent of the fashion, beginning approximately in the 1920s, when people still manes of the apex monkey skins used for fur purposes. Back then, the fluttering, sparse Newchwang goats were actually dyed black, provided they had the necessary hair length and were used as so-called "monkey goats" as a substitute for the vertebrate monkey.

Goatskin is processed into parchment untanned . Untanned goatskins are also used as drum heads, for example for the bodhrán (Ireland), the darbuka , the riq (Arabia), the alfaia and pandeiro (Brazil), the dhol (northern India) and as bellows for bagpipes . Some stringed instruments have a body covered with goat skin , for example the Afghan rubab , the Indian sarod and sarangi , the Yemeni qanbus and certain forms of the Malay gambus . In ancient Greece, the skins in the form of tubes were used to store wine.

Kidskin

Wildcat Dyed Kid Jacket (2005)

Kidskins , the skins of a few weeks old goats, have soft and silky hair with little undercoat. The colors are white, gray, brown, black and piebald.

Apart from their color , the tobacco shops differentiate them according to their hair character : moiré, short or long haired, curly and flamed.

The main amounts come from Europe, India, China, Arabia , Somaliland and Ethiopia . Chinese kids are mostly traded as kid .

The animals are usually slaughtered when they are up to two weeks old, while they are still being suckled. A specialist book for tobacco processors notes that kidskins are not hairy if they are harvested at the right time. However, in this respect the interests of the furriers would not coincide with the custom of using the kids as a roast Easter lamb. Such pelts are in the hair change and are more or less hair-like after finishing.

Most species have a lower load-bearing capacity than lambskins , and the hairs break more easily.

Europe

  • Good short-haired varieties used to come mainly from Germany as "Kürschnerzickel" .
Most of the skins are unpatterned, sometimes curled. Heber (Heberlinge), occasionally also eater skins , are called the skins of about 5 to 6 weeks old, no longer suckling animals.
The German trade sorted the skins into the following quality classes (as of 1951):
KI white : Flawless in the leather, white leather, without slaughter cuts, holes and beetle damage; well tense, short-haired, but only to medium smoke.
K II white : not well tense, but without hairlessness, with light slaughter cuts, small holes and beetle damage; However, the hair texture is like KI white, or the leather is flawless, but the hair is very smoky.
Monochromatic I : Goods like KI white, but instead of white monochrome light, including light brown with a dark grunt, but not black.
Monochrome II : Goods like K II white, but instead of white monochrome light, including light brown with a dark grunt, but not black.
Colorful I : Assortment like KI white, but with a checkered and black color
Bunte II : Like K II white, but piebald and black.
Weft : All skins that cannot be accommodated in the above classes, because they are badly damaged, with beetle damage or other defects, but in the hair suitable for fur lining purposes.
  • Portugal
About 10% of the skins are white, 25% brown, 35% brown and about 30% black; In addition to color and hair length, they are also traded according to weight class. The fur size is approximately 2 to 4 square feet.
  • Spain, Greece, Norway
The ranges are roughly like the Portuguese.
  • Turkey
The best provenances come from the Marmara , Izmir and Black Sea regions. They come to the dressing shops dry-salted.
Kid's claw jacket, 1985

Africa and Asia

  • Northeast East Africa and Arabia
Mostly flat, moiré skins come from here, the markings of which come out nicely, especially after being dyed black. Originally used as glove leather, after the First World War and around 1960 to 1990 with several hundred thousand pieces annually, the skins were an important and inexpensive item for large-scale fur clothing. Presumably because of the low durability of the easily broken hair, the attractive material could not be used on both occasions to establish itself permanently on the market. As with lambskin, the amount of lambskin delivered also depends largely on the competitive yield of the adult animals for meat and milk. In 1958, the annual decrease in the number of pelts fell from around 1 million to 250,000.
Hodeida (-zickel or -kid) , also Arabana
thick leather, about Persian size , mostly white, brown and black spotted, often with beautiful moiré.
Yemen
like Hodeida , but more open in the hair.
The coat quality was difficult to assess in the raw state. The pelts collected by caravans from the Bedouins in weeks-long journeys were often smeared and wet on the flesh side and therefore rotted or burned in the leather during transport. The quality of the pelts also depends on whether the animals had good living conditions or were slaughtered because of lack of water or poor nutrition.
Donkali
are considered to be the most beautiful kids. They are strongly moiré and very silky. Colors as mentioned above, but mostly piebald (therefore almost always dark or black-colored) and a fifth smaller. Mostly from Ethiopia.
Asmara
about a tenth smaller than the Donkalis; less drawn; partly black and white speckled.
Mogador
are called the Somali kids (delivery from Mogadishu , not to be confused with the former Moroccan Mogador). Mostly only for leather, as there are many damaged areas.
  • India
The pelts coming from Delhi occasionally show a nice moiré and good shine; Zickel from Multan similar to Multan lambs, the drawing is somewhat coarser. Lighter skins come from Rajasthan , while Jaipur delivers better quality .
Zickel (Kid), China
Sketch of a Chinese fur cross , but here made from fragments (1900)
  • China
Kid is the common name for North Chinese kidskins.
The skins are smooth and flat, depending on their age; partly with moiré; curled or flamed. Occasionally they are Persian-like.
Moiré skins were traded as kid astrakhan , very smooth-haired skins from premature or stillborn babies as kid galjak . The hair color is usually blackish, gray, yellowish or white. See also the main article → Astrakhan (fur) .
They almost always come on the market as prefabricated tablets. These semi-finished products usually have a width of 50 to 60 cm and a height of 115 to 120 cm. Production takes place in factories or at home. All waste, some of the smallest pieces of fur, has been or is being processed (ears, forehead, head or claw boards).
Dyed tablets are marketed under the following names: Tapanschang, Chinese Astrakhan (Kid Astrakhan), more curled than "Western black kidplates".
As Jehol lambskin bars are on the market that do not come from sheep but from goats (as recently as the 1980s). These are very curly kid boards. With less pronounced attraction, the products were usually referred to as Chinese Astrakhan, Kid-Astrakhan or Tapanchang (a city in the Jehol province (=  Tangshan ?)).

Up until around 1925, the skins were still put together to form "crosses" of around 20 pieces each instead of as panels. With very little effort, the simply cut Chinese garments could be made from it. Until then, kid crosses were also exported in this form.

The processing , usually from (not only in China) prefabricated panels, takes place in all kinds of ready-made items, especially for inexpensive young fashion. Often also colored, partly reversible or as a fur lining . Depending on the fashion and model, around 28 to 45 kidskins are required for a coat.

Numbers and facts

  • 1864 to 1988

World production of goat skins for fur purposes (estimated)

Kid Kid Mouflon goat source
1864 - - - - Heinrich Lomer
1900 - - - 2,100,000 Paul Larisch / Joseph Schmidt
1923/24 2,000,000 2,000,000 020,000 3,000,000 Emil Brass 1
1930 3,000,000 - 500,000 2,000,000 IPA - International Fur Exhibition Leipzig
1950 3,000,000 0.200,000 120,000 2,500,000 Dr. Friedrich Lübstorff

In 1988 , figures about the annual incidence were not known according to the jury Fränkel 's smoking manual.

1 According to Brass, around 300,000 kid crosses and 100,000 individual skins came to the world market from China in the early 1920s.
  • Before 1944 the maximum price for kidskins was:
colored 3.85 RM
for Hodeida kidskins:
moired 15 RM; smooth 5 RM.
Two advertisements in a specialist newspaper for long-haired goat skins known as "goat foxes" (1924)

See also

Web links

Commons : Goatskins  - Collection of images, videos and audio files
Commons : Goatskin Clothing  - Collection of images, videos and audio files
Commons : Goat Skin Processing  - Collection of Images, Videos and Audio Files
Wiktionary: goat skin  - explanations of meanings, word origins, synonyms, translations

annotation

  1. The specified comparative values ​​( coefficients ) are the result of comparative tests by furriers and tobacco shops with regard to the degree of apparent wear and tear. The figures are ambiguous; in addition to the subjective observations of shelf life in practice, there are also influences from tanning and finishing as well as other factors in each individual case. More precise information could only be determined on a scientific basis.
    The division was made in steps of 10 percent each. The most durable types of fur according to practical experience were set to 100 percent.

Individual evidence

  1. Dr. Paul Schöps; Dr. H. Brauckhoff, Stuttgart; K. Häse, Leipzig, Richard König , Frankfurt / Main; W. Straube-Daiber, Stuttgart: The durability coefficients of fur skins in Das Pelzgewerbe , Volume XV, New Series, 1964, No. 2, Hermelin Verlag Dr. Paul Schöps, Berlin, Frankfurt / Main, Leipzig, Vienna, pp. 56–58.
  2. John C. Sachs: Furs and the Fur Trade , Sir Isaac Pitman & Sons Ltd., London, 3rd edition, undated (1950s?), Pp. 76-78, 137 (English).
  3. Paul Schöps, Kurt Häse: The fineness of the hair - the fineness classes . In: Das Pelzgewerbe Vol. VI / New Series, 1955 No. 2, Hermelin-Verlag Dr. Paul Schöps, Leipzig, Berlin, Frankfurt am Main, pp. 39–40.
  4. ^ Giuseppe E. Bravo, Juliana Trupke: 100,000 years of leather . Birkhäuser Verlag, Basel 1970, p. 70. Primary source: Author unknown: Sinuhe e altre storie egiziane (Edit. II Saggiatore, Milan 1962), p. 22. See also A. Erman: The literature of the Egyptians . Leipzig 1923.
  5. ^ Editing and publishing house Paul Larisch / Josef Schmid: Das Kürschner-Handwerk , 1st year, no. 3-4, Part 1, pp. 35–36, Chapter The Rough Paletot , Paris Dec. 1902.
  6. Alexander Tuma: Pelzlexikon. XXI. Volume of fur and tobacco products , keyword Rauhwarenhandel , Verlag Alexander Tuma, Vienna 1951
  7. Paul Larisch : The furriers and their characters , 1928. Self-published, Berlin, pp. 25, 27
  8. Paul Larisch: The furriers and their characters . Selbstverlag, Berlin 1928, p. 116. From an unspecified secondary source, quoted in full, Die Kirschner .
  9. See Dr. HD Damm, Leipzig: Furs and animal skins in the shipping of exotic peoples, In: Das Pelzgewerbe , Volume VII / New Series, No. 5, Hermelin-Verlag Dr Paul Schöps Berlin - Leipzig, 1956, pp. 189–199.
  10. ^ "-R": The Far East as Europe's fur supplier . In: Der Rauchwarenmarkt , No. 3, January 17, 1936, p. 4.
  11. ^ A b c Emil Brass : From the realm of fur , 1925, publishing house of the "Neue Pelzwaren-Zeitung and Kürschner-Zeitung", Berlin, pp. 834–840.
  12. Johann Samuel Halle: Workshops of today's arts , chapter The Kirschner . Berlin 1762, file: The Kirschner Page 312.jpg .
  13. ^ A b Fritz Schmidt : The book of fur animals and fur , 1970, FC Mayer Verlag, Munich, pp. 370–371.
  14. Arthur Hermsdorf: News. In: Der Rauchwarenmarkt No. 48, Leipzig, April 10, 1928.
  15. a b c d e f Richard König : An interesting lecture (lecture on the trade in Chinese, Mongolian, Manchurian and Japanese tobacco products). In: Die Pelzwirtschaft No. 47, 1952, p. 49.
  16. ^ CW Martin & Sons: Under Eight Monarchs. CW Martin & Sons, Ltd. 1823–1953, self-published, London 1953, pp. 3-32.
  17. ^ Advertisement in: The 1000 year old Leipzig . Walter Lange (Ed.), “Rege” Deutscher Jubiläums-Verlag, Leipzig, p. 235.
  18. ^ A b Philipp Manes : The German fur industry and its associations 1900-1940, attempt at a story . Berlin 1941 Volume 4. Copy of the original manuscript, p. 133 ( → table of contents )
  19. ^ Philipp Manes : The German fur industry and its associations 1900-1940, attempt at a story . Berlin 1941 Volume 1. Copy of the original manuscript, p. 18 ( G. & C. Franke collection ).
  20. ^ John Lahs, Georg von Stering-Krugheim: Handbook on wild hides and skins . From the company Allgemeine Land- und Seetransportgesellschaft Hermann Ludwig, Hamburg (ed.), Hamburg 1956, pp. 216, 217, 223.
  21. ^ FA Brockhaus : General Encyclopedia of Sciences and Arts. Published by JS Ed and IG Gruber, Leipzig 1841. Third Section OZ, keyword “Fur”.
  22. ^ Christian Heinrich Schmidt: The furrier art . Verlag BF Voigt, Weimar 1844, p. 59.
  23. ^ Salomon Friedrich Gyr: Zurich guild histories . 2nd expanded edition, Verlag des Zentral-Komitees der Zunfts Zürichs, 1929, pp. 381–382.
  24. ^ A b Siegfried Beyer, Naunhof-Leipzig: On the assessment of fur skins. In: The fur industry , Hermelin-Verlag Dr. Paul Schöps, Berlin / Leipzig 1951, XXI. Volume 1/2, p. 2.
  25. The Kirschner . In: JS Halle: Workshops for today's arts , Berlin 1762, see p. 312 .
  26. a b Heinrich Hanicke, furrier: Handbook for furriers , 1895, published by Alexander Duncker in Leipzig, p 90; Plate 100. Manual for furriers by Heinrich Hanicke 1895 .
  27. Arthur Hermsdorf: News . In: Philipp Manes : The German fur industry and its associations 1900-1940, attempt at a story . Berlin 1941 Volume 4. Copy of the original manuscript, p. 397 ( → table of contents )
  28. a b c d Emil Brass: Useful animals . Verlag J. Neumann, Neudamm 1904, pp. 79-81
  29. a b “An important exporter from Tientsin”: North China goat source In: Der Rauchwarenmarkt no. 111, Leipzig, September 15, 1928. First impression in hides and leather .
  30. Alexander Tuma: Pelz-Lexikon. Fur and rough goods. XVII. Tape. Verlag Alexander Tuma, Vienna 1950. Keyword “Ban Kaos”.
  31. a b Christian Franke / Johanna Kroll: Jury Fränkel 's Rauchwaren-Handbuch 1988/89 . Rifra-Verlag Murrhardt, 10th revised and supplemented edition, pp. 256–261.
  32. ^ Siegfried Beyer: For the assessment of fur skins . In: The fur industry , Hermelin-Verlag Dr. Paul Schöps, Berlin / Leipzig 1951, issue 1/2, pp. 7, 11-13.
  33. Production of untanned drum heads. (No longer available online.) Archived from the original on March 18, 2013 ; Retrieved July 26, 2014 . Info: The archive link was inserted automatically and has not yet been checked. Please check the original and archive link according to the instructions and then remove this notice. @1@ 2Template: Webachiv / IABot / www.pergament-trommelfell.de
  34. W. Künzel: From raw hide to smoke goods - outings in the Head Shop finishing , Alexander Duncker Verlagsbuchhandlung, Leipzig, undated (? 1935), S. 107th
  35. ^ Friedrich Jäkel: The Brühl from 1900 to World War II . 5. Continuation. From: Die Pelzwirtschaft , Berlin 1966, page 82.
  36. a b Arabian fur types . In All Around Fur , April 1950, p. 81.
  37. a b Dr. Paul Schöps / Dr. W. Altenkirch / Kurt Häse / Leopold Hermsdorf / Richard König , Fellwerk der Ziege , 1956, The Fur Industry , Volume 7 / New Series, Issue 3, Hermelin-Verlag Dr. Paul Schöps, pp. 101-109.
  38. Dr. Paul Schöps: East Asian lambskins and sheepskins. In: Das Pelzgewerbe No. 1, Volume IX / New Series, Hermelin-Verlag Leipzig, Berlin, Frankfurt am Main 1958, pp. 9-14.
  39. ^ Friedrich Malm, August Dietzsch: The art of the furrier. Fachbuchverlag Leipzig 1951, pp. 38, 76.