Ocelot fur

from Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia

  • Mexican ocelot fur

  • Brazilian ocelot fur

Tapestry for hunting or sports rooms . The spotted middle part made of ocelot skins (then called " tiger cat skins ", approx. Early 1900)

Fur fashion became interested in the ocelot fur very late . In the 1920s it was hardly noticed. In the beginning it only served its purpose “as a car cover”, it was already said in 1934 that it “works alone as well as in combination such as beaver, nutria or fox and raccoon” and now forms “a woman's longing for the most beautiful piece of clothing”. Until the time after the Second World War, ocelot was so popular for women's clothing that there was a risk of extinction. Since it seemed almost impossible to monitor compliance with protective laws in the confusing wilderness of South America, it was decided to implement an absolute and apparently successful trade ban, the threat no longer comes from hunting. It is "particularly protected according to BNatSchG since August 31, 1980, maximum protection since January 18, 1990", as are all other spotted small South American cats.

For the fur of the smaller, so-called ocelot or tiger cat species, see →  Ocelot cat fur . They can be clearly distinguished from the ocelot by their not so flat, softer and duller fur and the missing cervical vertebrae, except for the Bergozelot, which has only one vertebra.

Fell, trade

Hotï Indian ocelot bag, Venezuela

The fur has a length of about 65 to 100 cm and a tail length of 30 to 45 cm. It is sand yellow to ocher brown with a more or less strong gray tint (especially in ocelots from the dry bush areas).

The striking difference between the ocelot and the very similar, but smaller and usually somewhat woolly mountain goose or peludo fur is the two adjacent cervical vertebrae, compared to only one in the peludo. Here the hair is parted, part of the head hair runs forward. The white side of the fur is cross-patterned, with the abdominal spots arranged in cross rows sometimes merging to form horizontal stripes, as do the rows of spots in the back. The back pattern runs lengthways. The spots and stripes form courtyards that are much lighter inside. Particularly noticeable after processing are the large rosettes next to the front paws (they only form when two skins are placed next to each other), also called "flowers" or "eyes" by the furrier. As in the case of the leopard ( black panther ), melanotic animals (black flies) occur. The paws are finely spotted. As with most cat species, the tail, which is slender and tapering to a point, is yellow to reddish-brown on the upper side, but yellowish-white on the underside, and in the upper part with large dark transverse spots with a light center.

The very distinctive pattern of spots varies so much that it cannot be safely used as a distinguishing feature of the subspecies. The color variation within a district is greater than the very specific fur names in the trade would suggest ("Mexicans", "Brazilians", "Argentinians").

The most valuable were the skins, which are known as “blue” in the fur industry. An otherwise very sober technical book describes this technical color designation in connection with ocelot as follows: " It is the skins that have a bluish shimmer, like snow illuminated by the sun ". The bluest, largest and clearest skins were those from the Mexican tradition. In contrast to other types of fur, short-haired types with tightly fitting hair were preferred.

The occurrence of the ocelot extends from Arkansas , Texas and Arizona (southern USA) and northern Mexico , southwards over Ecuador , Peru and Bolivia to northern Argentina ( Corrientes ) and southern Brazil; in the east to the Atlantic coast, in the west to the Pacific coast.

Argentine skins are large, quite smoky and very silky, bluish to light gray.

The skins from Paraguay are large to very large, very smoky, grayish, the markings are blurred.

Of the Brazilian ocelots, the Bahia ware is rarely large, but with fine colors and good markings. Bahia was the second most highly rated product after the Mexicans. The skins from the northeast are sometimes very expressively drawn, quite large and a bit flat in the hair. The western pelts are also quite large, but the drawing is a bit more washed out. With skins from east-central Brazil, the stripes are dead straight, as if drawn with a ruler.

Bolivia supplied large, somewhat smoky skins that were often poorly pretreated.

Brownish and greyish skins with expressive markings came from Peru and Ecuador.

Colombia and Venezuela provenances are flat, about 40 percent grayish and yellowish, 60 percent brown to red, with small to medium-sized markings.

Mexican pelts are large, medium-smoke with large, dark, egg-shaped, impressive markings. They are mostly (in technical terms) blue, sometimes slightly greenish-yellow. The dark, strongly pronounced drawing is egg-shaped. Mexican ocelot skins were rated the highest.

So-called “blue” skins were paid the highest, and the most beautiful are found among “Mexicans”. The largest offer in terms of quantity came onto the market as "Brazilians".

The skins were delivered open, i.e. not peeled off round.

At the beginning of the 1960s there were successful breeding attempts of ocelots in farms, one breeding was operated by a Swedish feed factory. Little seems to be known about the final results.

Ocelot fur is a permanent fur, the durability coefficient is given as 50 to 60 percent.

  • Protection status:
Leopardus pardalis , protected under the Washington Convention, Appendix I; according to the EC regulation 750/2013 and strictly protected according to the Federal Nature Conservation Act.
Detailed protection data: First listing since June 20, 1976. Particularly protected under the Federal Nature Conservation Act since August 31, 1980, maximum protection since January 18, 1990. The subspecies Leopardus pardalis mearnsi and Leopardus pardalis mitis have been in the appendix since June 20, 1976 I WA protected. The synonym Felis was used for Leopardus at that time .

processing

Ocelot coat, body part (furrier work before 1980)

Ocelot skins were used in all kinds of clothing, especially in women's coats and jackets, and often in trimmings and headgear. Even if men's furs made of ocelot were occasionally used in the collections , the striking material was almost exclusively used for women's clothing.

The furrier processing differs in parts significantly from that of other types of fur due to the distinctive coat pattern and requires a lot of empathy. A specialist book from 1956 estimates 16 skins as an example for a 135 centimeter long coat. For the trunk 7 sheets of skin were planned, for each of which 1 ½ skins were cut into one another (incision). At the connection points determined by the furrier, the first of the sorted pelts was cut in a serrated line, by other furriers in a wavy line, either according to a template or from the hair according to the skin drawing. The part of the fur was pinned to the second fur with pins in such a way that the fur pattern merged from one fur into the other. With the copy wheel and pins, the jagged line was transferred to the skin underneath, traced with the pen, cut and reworked again. The incision was repeated in the appropriate places until the strip of fur had the required length. With the remaining half of the skin, the next similar body skin was extended in the same way. After sewing together with the fur sewing machine , the incisions were checked and corrected if necessary. The head parts including the rosettes mostly remained unextended, but major repairs to the bullet holes were often necessary here. The rosettes, which were arranged at the same height as possible, should not sit too deep, otherwise this conspicuous, round drawing in the front part would cause the women's breasts to slide down optically disadvantageously.

The two vertebrae in the frontal area of ​​the fur often caused particular problems. They were often bare, especially when repairing worn parts. If there was no replacement from leftover pieces, a small, elongated piece was cut out of the flat-haired front paws, sewn together at both ends, stretched round and pulled together in the middle and sewn in by hand instead of the real vertebra.

Since ocelot leather is extremely quick, special effects can be achieved by stretching the skins into certain shapes when moist ( purposes ), for example for, even extreme, collar curves.

The processing was carried out without exception natural, only in the context of model redesigns the fur was occasionally slightly colored (mainly blue, the natural pattern is retained) in order to achieve a less conspicuous appearance or to adapt it to a fabric color as trimmings and fur lining .

In 1965, the fur consumption for a fur sheet sufficient for an ocelot coat was given as 14 to 20 pelts (so-called coat “body” ). A board with a length of 112 centimeters and an average width of 150 centimeters and an additional sleeve section was used as the basis. This corresponds roughly to a fur material for a slightly exhibited coat of clothing size 46 from 2014. The maximum and minimum fur numbers can result from the different sizes of the sexes of the animals, the age groups and their origin. Depending on the type of fur, the three factors have different effects.

As with most types of fur, every part of the fur was processed by the ocelot. In particular, the runs and the bright fur sides, but also the tails were to coat tablets said "Creeper" semi-finished products assembled. Mainly inner lining was made from it, but also jackets and coats. The main place for the recycling of the fur residues in Europe is Kastoria in Greece as well as the smaller town Siatista, which is located nearby . The tails were also suitable for processing into caps and trimmings.

  • The characteristic fur pattern

  • Cutting into individual corrugated seams

  • The rosettes all around at the same height

  • The tailored trunk

  • The two vortices

  • Two rosettes or flowers

  • Furrier assortments at tobacco wholesalers (1971)

  • Left ocelot coat, right furrier aiming with a special purpose pistol (1969)

  • The speedy leather made unusual processing possible for purposes (1980)

Ocelot-like refinements

Ocelot coats at a fashion show in Frankfurt am Main (1978)

The attractive fur pattern of the ocelot was also transferred to other, cheaper types of fur, essentially initially in plate printing, then in roller printing and later in screen printing. Examples include rabbits, Zickel- , Wallaby- , sealskins (Blue Backs) and lamb skins (trade names: ocelot Kanin - falsely before 1950 also referred to as "Ozolet" ocelot Zickel, ocelot Wallaby, ocelot seal, Ocelot Lamb ). For general refinement, see the main article →  Pelzveredlung .

Numbers and facts

Ocelot jacket dyed red in connection with a model redesign ( Dieter Zoern , 1986)
  • 1801 in Chapter VIII goods for fur or tobacco dealers , von Buse: The whole of the plot , ocelots and tiger cats were not yet mentioned.
  • In 1864 the ocelot and tiger cat were briefly discussed by Lomer: “ Ocelot and tiger cats (felis tigrina) often come from India, which have a gray-yellow basic color and appear beautifully drawn by their elongated black spots that form several straight lines on the back; they are used to make small foot covers and saddle pads. "
  • In 1911 , tobacco merchant Brass estimated the value of an ocelot fur at 5 to 6 marks, up to then barely more than a few hundred 'Felis mearusis' were on the market every year .
  • In 1925 , Brass estimated the value of a head at 15 to 20 marks ( gold marks ) with the same attack . However, 50 years later Schmidt states that the period is “ only a few thousand pieces ” annually.
  • Before 1944 the maximum price for ocelot skins was 70 RM .
  • In 1950 the entrance was estimated at 80,000 ocelot skins annually.
  • The raw fur deliveries to the USA were stated as follows:
From Peru 1964 = 11,244 skins, 1967 = 115,458 skins.
From Brazil, Bolivia and Colombia 1968 = 128,966 skins, 1969 = 133,064 skins.
  • 1962 , around April / May, noted per Fell in the tobacco shops in original lots:
Mexicans: £ 25 to £ 28
Brasil Cerera: £ 17-18
Ecuador: £ 10-11
Columbia: £ 8-10

1960-1970 , during this time a fur model house in the Federal Republic of Germany offered:

Brazilian ocelot
best quality: from 7800 DM
best quality, finest color: from 16,800 DM
Mexican ocelot
best quality: from 14,000
best quality, finer in color: from 24,000 DM
best quality, finest color: from 45,000 DM
  • In 1973 , the average price for a size 40 coat by Marie Louise Steinhauer was given as follows:
Brazilian ocelot: DM 8,000 to DM 25,000
Mexican ocelot: 28,000 to 80,000 DM
Mink ( left out ): 2950 to 9000 DM; Top quality 12,000 to 18,000 DM
Persians : 1750 to 7500 DM
Russian sable : 40,000 to 100,000 DM

See also

Commons : Ocelot Skins  - Collection of images, videos, and audio files
Commons : Ocelot Skin Apparel  - Collection of images, videos and audio files
Commons : Ocelot Skin Processing  - Collection of Images, Videos, and Audio Files

annotation

  1. ↑ The specified comparative values ​​( coefficients ) are the result of comparative tests by furriers and tobacco shops with regard to the degree of apparent wear and tear. The figures are ambiguous; in addition to the subjective observations of shelf life in practice, there are also influences from tanning and finishing as well as numerous other factors in each individual case. More precise information could only be determined on a scientific basis. The division was made in steps of 10 percent each. The most durable types of fur according to practical experience were set to 100 percent.

Individual evidence

  1. ^ Editing and publishing house Paul Larisch / Josef Schmid: Das Kürschner-Handwerk , 1st year, no. 12, 3rd part, p. 69, chapter mosaic , Paris December 1903
  2. ↑ a b c Without mentioning the author: Ozelot. An interesting fashion problem . In "Deutsche Kürschner-Zeitung" issue A No. 10 v. April 5, 1934, Verlag Arthur Heber & Co., Berlin, pp. 266-267.
  3. ^ Federal Agency for Nature Conservation - Wisia-Online, WISIA Scientific information system for international species protection
  4. ↑ a b Heinrich Dathe , Paul Schöps, with the assistance of 11 specialists: Fur Animal Atlas . VEB Gustav Fischer Verlag Jena, 1986, pp. 211-212.
  5. ↑ a b c d Paul Schöps, among others: ocelot and ocelot-like fur (tiger cats) . In “Das Pelzgewerbe”, vol. XII / new series no. 3, 1926, Hermelin-Verlag Dr. Paul Schöps, Berlin et al., Pp. 101-116
  6. ↑ Max Bachrach: Fur. A Practical Treatise. Prentice-Hall, Inc., New York 1936. pp. 201-204 (Eng.)
  7. ↑ a b c d e f g h i Christian Franke / Johanna Kroll: Jury Fränkel ´s Rauchwaren-Handbuch 1988/89 . 10. revised and supplemented new edition, Rifra-Verlag Murrhardt, pp. 100-101.
  8. ↑ Without the author's name: Ocelot breeding experiments on Smedsmora . In: Die Pelzwirtschaft Heft 11, 1970, pp. 44-45 (feed company Harald Fors & Co AB, test farm Smedsmora near Rimbo, near Stockholm).
  9. ↑ Paul Schöps; H. Brauckhoff, Stuttgart; K. Häse, Leipzig, Richard König , Frankfurt / Main; W. Straube-Daiber, Stuttgart: The durability coefficients of fur skins in Das Pelzgewerbe , Volume XV, New Series, 1964, No. 2, Hermelin Verlag Dr. Paul Schöps, Berlin, Frankfurt / Main, Leipzig, Vienna, pp. 56–58
  10. ^ Wisia-online Federal Agency for Nature Conservation . Last accessed November 12, 2014.
  11. ↑ Anna Municchi: Ladies in Furs 1900-1940 . Zanfi Editori, Modena 1992, p. 138 (English) ISBN 88-85168-86-8 Note: In Fig. 137 Municchi shows a man with an ocelot coat in her book, but here incorrectly called a leopard.
  12. ^ Author collective: Der Kürschner. Technical and textbook for the furrier trade. 2nd revised edition. Published by the vocational training committee of the Central Association of the Furrier Handicraft, JP Bachem Publishing House, Cologne 1956, pp. 111–115
  13. ↑ R. Grünewald: The Ozelotverarbeitung today . In: “Marco - Information from the Fränkische Pelzindustrie ” 22nd edition year-end 1969, self-published Fürth, pp. 5–10
  14. ↑ Paul Schöps among others: The material requirement for fur clothing . In: Das Pelzgewerbe Vol. XVI / New Series 1965 No. 1, Hermelin-Verlag Dr. Paul Schöps, Berlin et al., Pp. 7-12. Note: The information for a body was only made to make the types of fur easier to compare. In fact, bodies were only made for small (up to about muskrat size ) and common types of fur, and also for pieces of fur . The following dimensions for a coat body were taken as a basis: body = height 112 cm, width below 160 cm, width above 140 cm, sleeves = 60 × 140 cm.
  15. ^ Friedrich Lorenz: Rauchwarenkunde , 4th edition. Verlag Volk und Wissen, Berlin 1958, p. 67
  16. ↑ Alexander Tuma: Pelz-Lexikon. Fur and rough goods. XX. Tape. Verlag Alexander Tuma, Vienna 1950. Keyword “Ozelot” (note: primary source obviously “Deutsche Kürschner-Zeitschrift” No. 10/1945).
  17. ^ H. Lomer: Der Rauchwarenhandel , Leipzig 1864
  18. ↑ Emil Brass : From the realm of fur . 1st edition, published by the "Neue Pelzwaren-Zeitung and Kürschner-Zeitung", Berlin 1911, pp. 411–412
  19. ↑ Emil Brass: From the realm of fur . 2nd improved edition, publisher of the "Neue Pelzwaren-Zeitung and Kürschner-Zeitung", Berlin 1925, pp. 495–496
  20. ↑ a b c Fritz Schmidt: The book of the fur animals and fur . FC Mayer Verlag, Munich 1970, pp. 161-164.
  21. ^ Friedrich Malm, August Dietzsch: The art of the furrier. Fachbuchverlag Leipzig 1951, p. 54.
  22. ^ Paul Schöps: Fellwerk der Großkatzen . In "Das Pelzgewerbe" new episode vol. XXI No. 2, 1971, Hermelin-Verlag Dr. Paul Schöps, Berlin et al., P. 11
  23. ^ Marie Louise Steinbauer, Rudolf Kinzel: Marie Louise Pelze . Steinbock Verlag, Hannover 1973, pp. 224–225.