Buenolamm

Black-dyed Bueno jacket, 1932/33 (design Jeanne Lanvin , now in the Metropolitan Museum of Art )

Black buenolamm muff, kept hanging in a muffle box

As buenolamm , bueno-Breitschwanz or simply bueno , the lambskins of some sheepskins , usually South American sheep , which are short- cropped for fur purposes , are sometimes also referred to in the plural (Buenos ...). For a long time, trade names such as American Broadtail or Argentine Broadtail were also in use.

The deep shearing creates a moiré similar to the South African Swakara lambskins and Russian broadtail skins with a high sheen and a harp or peacock-like pattern. Since the fur is white, it is also ideal for coloring in very light fashion colors.

The durability coefficient for clothing from skins Bueno was estimated based on general experience in 50 to 60 percent of the toughest coat type.

History, trade

The "discovery" of the Bueno broadtail took place around 1900, when it was recognized that in certain South American fur races, hidden under a woolly upper hair, an interesting, broad-tail-like appearance emerged through shearing. The skins, first brought onto the market in a larger collection by the tobacco product refiner A. Herzog from Markranstädt near Leipzig, were rejected by the trade with "scorn and ridicule". The shearing was initially done by family members with scissors, sometimes also by the neighboring hairdresser. The product only found recognition after the First World War, when it returned to Europe as a novelty from the USA and became “great fashion”. Suitable clippers had now been constructed for mass consumption, similar to the velvet and plush clippers in the textile industry. As recently as the 1940s, however, most North American members of the fur industry were mistaken for the belief that the fur pattern had been artificially pressed into it.

The tobacco retailer Leonidas Keskari remembered his experience with the Bueno article, which was difficult to sell after the global economic crisis between 1928 and 1930 :

At that time, the Keskari company traded a lot in this fur article; in 1933 the shelves and baskets were full of skins of a lower quality of this type, they seemed almost unsaleable. His wife, who was not in the business, but was engaged in making tapestry-embroidered bags as a hobby, gave him a very business-intensive idea. She had combined a muff with a handbag and suggested they occupy it with the "no good" Buenos. The furrier Albert Rosenstein ordered the first bag in Berlin, in the same year the utility model protection was registered and the next year the workshop ran out of Buenos Aires and you had to buy additional skins. That was the beginning of an important muffle bag and muffle bag production that still existed in 2017.

The skins of the woolly sheep kept in the pampas and steppes of Argentina and Uruguay are unsheared as Buenos Aires delicacies , they are particularly suitable for deep clipping. Schmaschen (formerly also Schmosen) are the skins of one to two days old, also prematurely or stillborn lambs. They are small to medium in size; the hairs differ depending on the breed, but mostly short and flat, curly and thin with button-like curls. Skins some day-old animals have the Caloyos -Lämmern similar drawing, they are called Investigate referred. The skins of the somewhat older lambs used for Buenos Aires have a coat length of about 40 to 60 centimeters, the white hair has a button-like curl. At the base of the hair they have a special moiré that is reminiscent of particularly pronounced broad-tailed skins or Swakara Persians. By deep-shearing it, the attractive hair image comes to the fore.

While initially only the skins of the Lincoln lambs were used for Bueno processing , in the mid-1950s it was also used for other South American woolen sheep, and even sheep of European species. Lincoln-Buenos have silky hair and a large pattern; at Montevideo-Buenos it is duller and more engraved.

In the case of a correct name for a fur finishing, the last part of the word should actually indicate the original fur, so it should actually be Buenos Aires-Breitschwanz-Schmaschen . Emil Brass wrote about Buenos Aires in 1911: "The fur hat, made of black-dyed Buenos Ayres Schmaschen, which is dyed exclusively in Leipzig for this market as well as for Hungary, remains peculiar to Romania."

In addition to the deep-shorn buenos, the best varieties of Uruguayan lambskin are also referred to only as "bueno broadtail".

Similar lambskin cords

Beige buenolamm jacket, similar to Persian sheared slightly higher, with mink collar (back view, approx. 1970)

The skins of young sheep used for deep-sheared lambskins have a relief-like pattern (moiré) a few millimeters above the leather, which only becomes visible after shearing. However, by screening the raw skins, it is already possible to determine which skins are sufficiently marked for deep clipping. Roman lambskins are suitable for this, Lincoln or Montevideo Schmaschen (coat designation Bueno lamb, formerly also American broad tail) are particularly beautiful .

• After the Second World War , the trend was no longer to shear Lincoln skins exclusively deeply for trimming purposes, in order to give them a more Persian-like appearance with a half-high shear in accordance with the fashion of the time ("Persian Lincoln"). Argentina supplied large quantities of the very sharply curled, broadly drawn, coarse-haired Lincoln Schmaschen . Starting around the 1930s, they were an important trade item, with sales particularly in Europe and America.
• Particularly deeply shorn skins of older animals are called Borrequito (Medianito), the even older, six to nine months old, slaughtered for meat as Borrego (Mediano). In the medianos, the hair is a bit grown out, the ringlets sit on straight hair stems above the epidermis . Shearing creates a ribbed to smooth rib pattern, they are less suitable for fur purposes. In the English-speaking trade, the deep-sheared, moiré fur types of adult sheep are also referred to as "plushy".
• Under the factory expression Tuky- (Tucky) -Breitschwanz (spr. Taki), wide-tail imitations with a somewhat broad-striped grain came on the market. The more fully grown the fur, the thicker the leather and the more blurred the drawing.
• Tipo is the name of a range of fur, which in the curl represents a kind of transition between Buenos Lincoln and Medianos. They are still suitable for the Persian shear, but only partially for the flat Buenoschur.
• Skins from later growth were still on the market under the names Borrego and Borrequito , at least before 2000 . The skins that are perceived to be the most beautiful have a peacock-eye-like pattern after deep shearing. After Herbert Müller succeeded in the mid-1960s with an ingenious refinement process to produce a fur material from Borregos-Lincoln, “which is ideally suited for fur purposes because of its lightness and beautiful flat moiré pattern”, the goods came into “one” by the end of the decade real boom ”, in which the demand for good goods far exceeded the accumulation.
• Montriesen referred to a type of sheared lamb, similar to Buenos, Lincoln or Embros, but from a different origin; they made fur coats of a heavier kind.
• Capones and jumbos are pelts from Lincoln lambs that have a fur area greater than seven square feet . After deep shearing, a broad moiré pattern appears, but because of their higher weight they are less suitable for fur purposes.

processing

• For the detailed kürschnerische Bueno casing production see → cutting and → side connections .

Fur strips for buenolamm coat, incised processing.
Left and middle the longitudinal connection as a wave seam, right as a lightning spike (sketches)

The professional raw preservation on site is decisive for the quality of the finished skins. Since the Argentine export ban on raw hides, only pre-prepared hides have come onto the world market. In particular, the Bueno Lincoln skins have a tendency to form snags , a tear in the upper leather, which is difficult to see in the unshaven skin.

Skins of various types of lamb and sheep are made usable for fur purposes by shearing and then dyeing them. The larger-area hides are partly pre-sheared in their raw state to make it easier to trim the long-haired and partly shaggy skins. Often this was already done in the country of origin with hand clippers in order to reduce transport costs. The finisher will decide later, after a possibly further preliminary cutting, at which cutting height the best drawing can be expected; A hair length difference of just 0.2 millimeters can make a significant difference. The fine-wool, thick-haired, light-leather, merino-like varieties are particularly suitable for Hochschuren. Shorn lambskins are mainly processed colored. Since the natural color is usually white, they are ideally suited for dyeing in any color, including the fashion colors required in each case.

After finishing , the smaller buenos are pre- sheared , then dyed and then cut to the final hair length with the precision shearing machine.

With appropriate fashion, jackets, coats, capes, scarves and sleeves, even trimmings were made from buenolamm in all required colors. The buenol lambskins, which are only sheared down to a few millimeters, are usually sewn fur over fur on top of each other and next to each other during processing into jackets or coats. The shades are so different in the respective assortments that it has to be decided on a case-by-case basis whether the moiré is more expressive when the heads are worked up or down. In demanding furrier work, the connections between the head and the end of the fur (the “ pump ”) are made in a serrated or wavy seam . For the larger Borregos, a so-called “box point” is typical . The longitudinal seams of the side connections can either be straight, or more complex as a "wave seam" or as a "lightning spike". When sewing with the fur sewing machine , it is important to ensure that the skin is grasped with the easily splitting leather.

The material consumption for a 112 centimeter long coat for the individual types of lambskin is approximately:

Borregos = 6 to 9 skins

Borrequitos = 10 to 14 skins

Buenos (Lincoln deeply sheared) = 24 to 34 skins

A board with a length of 112 centimeters and an average width of 150 centimeters and an additional sleeve section was used as the basis. This corresponds roughly to the fur material for a slightly flared coat in size 46 from 2014.

See also

• Lambskin

Web links

Commons : Buenolammskins  - Collection of images, videos and audio files

Commons : Clothing from Buenolamm  - Collection of images, videos and audio files

annotation

1. ↑ The specified comparative values ​​( coefficients ) are the result of comparative tests by furriers and tobacco shops with regard to the degree of apparent wear and tear. The figures are not unambiguous; in addition to the subjective observations of durability in practice, there are also influences from fur dressing and fur finishing as well as numerous other factors in each individual case . More precise information could only be determined on a scientific basis. The most durable types of fur according to practical experience were set to 100 percent.

Individual evidence

Advertisement Leipzig fur wholesaler for Buenos Aires (1937):
“Amerik.
Broadtail " " Americ. Broadtails "(English)
" Breitschwantz d'Amérique "(French)

1. ↑ Paul Schöps; H. Brauckhoff, Stuttgart; K. Häse, Leipzig, Richard König , Frankfurt / Main; W. Straube-Daiber, Stuttgart: The durability coefficients of fur skins . In: Das Pelzgewerbe , Volume XV, New Series, 1964, No. 2, Hermelin Verlag Dr. Paul Schöps, Berlin, Frankfurt / Main, Leipzig, Vienna, pp. 56–58.
2. ↑ Editor: On the history of tobacco dyeing. I. From the beginnings of black dyeing. In: Der Rauchwarenveredler No. 18, supplement from Der Rauchwarenmarkt. No. 19, Leipzig, March 9, 1935.
3. ↑ ^{a b} Without mentioning the author: lambskins and deep shearling lambskins . In: Der Rauchwarenmarkt No. 70, Leipzig 1935, p. 2.
4. ↑ ^{a b c} Friedrich Lorenz: Rauchwareenkunde . 4th edition. People and Knowledge, Berlin 1958, p. 134 .
5. ↑ Arthur Samet: Pictorial Encyclopedia of Furs . Arthur Samet (Book Division), New York 1950, p. 88. (English)
6. ↑ Entry of a “ handbag with a device to protect hands against the cold ” in the utility model roll
7. ↑ Business News. In: Der Rauchwarenmarkt No. 92, Leipzig, December 6, 1935, p. 7.
8. ↑ Paul Schöps: Trade with lambskins around 1800. In: Das Pelzgewerbe Jg. XVII / New Series 1967 No. 1, Hermelin-Verlag Dr. Paul Schöps, Berlin et al., Pp. 24-29. Primary source: Untitled “Handbook of goods science with detailed chapters on smoking goods”, Erfurt 1801 (probably D. Johann Krünitz: Economic-Technological Encyclopedia ).
9. ↑ ^{a b c d} Christian Franke / Johanna Kroll: Jury Fränkel ’s Rauchwaren-Handbuch 1988/89 . 10th revised and supplemented new edition. Rifra-Verlag, Murrhardt 1988, p. 262-266 .
10. ↑ ^{a b} Alexander Tuma: Pelz-Lexikon. Fur and rough goods. XVIL. Volume, Verlag Alexander Tuma, Vienna 1950. Keyword “Buenos-Breitschwanz”.
11. ↑ Emil Brass : From the realm of fur . 1st edition. Publishing house of the "Neue Pelzwaren-Zeitung and Kürschner-Zeitung", Berlin 1911, p. 245 (Note: In this edition, corrected later, Buenos Ayres-Schmaschen (without the first hyphen)).
12. ^ Friedrich Jäkel: The Brühl from 1900 to World War II. , 5th continuation. In: All about fur. August 1966, p. 83.
13. ↑ ^{a b c d e} Gerhard Spitzner: Lincoln - the versatile lambskin . In: Die Pelzwirtschaft No. 6, Berlin, June 30, 1978, pp. 14-16.
14. ↑ Max Bachrach: Fur. A Practical Treatise. Prentice-Hall, Inc., New York 1936. p. 458. (English).
15. ↑ Alexander Tuma: Pelz-Lexikon. Fur and Rough Goods, Volume XXI . Alexander Tuma, Vienna 1951, p. 217, keyword "Tuky-Breitschwanz" .
16. ↑ ^{a b} Herbert Müller: Lincoln ..., their origin, their refinement, their beauty 2nd episode. In: All about fur. No. 1, January 1965, pp. 27-29.
17. ↑ Alexander Tuma: Pelz-Lexikon. Fur and rough goods. XX. Volume, Verlag Alexander Tuma, Vienna 1950. Keyword “Montriesen”.
18. ↑ Paul Schöps among others: The material requirement for fur clothing. In: The fur trade. Vol. XVI / New Series 1965 No. 1, Hermelin-Verlag Dr. Paul Schöps, Berlin et al., Pp. 7-12. Note: The information for a body was only made to make the types of fur easier to compare. In fact, bodies were only made for small (up to about muskrat size ) and common types of fur, and also for pieces of fur . The following dimensions for a coat body were taken as a basis: body = height 112 cm, width below 160 cm, width above 140 cm, sleeves = 60 × 140 cm.