Pump
The Pumpf referred to in the fur trade the rearmost portion of a back fur, before the tail opposite the head portion. The pump part , or better part of the body, often refers to the entire part of the skin below the area between the front paws, the cross. Derived from it are, among other things, pump pieces for the fur residues to be recycled from the fur processing or the pump cut in the production of fur necklaces . According to the Viennese furrier Alexander Tuma jun. In addition to the usually sloping fur remnants (paw, tail and head pieces), there is usually only a three-part division of the fur in the furrier's workshop, namely head, pump and sides. This could perhaps be supplemented by the back and the cross, as well as the dewlap, as an alternative name for the sides of the fur.
The rear end of the fur, the pump, often requires special treatment during processing. Often the fur is thicker and matted (fox fur), or becomes flatter in places (muskrat fur), or it changes its color in the very last area or it is "pissed off".
processing
The matting of the pump in fox fur, the so-called “wild one”, often has to fall off when the fur is processed. In particular with the so-called "overturned" collar processing, in which the hairline runs to the center of the collar, otherwise an unsightly bulge results. To get an even better pump connection, a leather strip is sewn between the pumps that meet here, or pump halves in the case of a half-skin collar. This galon with a width adapted to the length of the hair prevents combing of the colliding hair.
In the production of fur necklaces , the collars in the shape of animals, pump cuts serve to bring the hind paws closer to the tail and thus in a parallel line with the necklace (for more information on the change in shape through fur cuts or fur seams, see → omitting ).
The muskrat is characterized by the fact that it becomes grayer and particularly short-haired in the sides of the pump, the "locks", due to thinning upper hair. When sewing the skins to panels to so-called Bisamfuttern, the skins to the sides were out why " occurred ". To do this, the short-haired pump sides are pushed onto the adjoining head of the next skin so that they cover the longer head hair and then sewn on top of each other. When, towards the end of the 20th century, velvety furs once again became fashionable and the bisam plates were sheared into "velvet bisam", the corners that had occurred were annoying, and the shearing resulted in ugly spots. Since the hair lengths are evened out when shearing, the chucks are currently pre-assembled without occurrence. As of 2017
The pump pieces that may have fallen off during processing are sewn together to form pump piece bodies, for example those from muskrat fur. These semi-finished fur products are further processed into fur parts, mainly into fur linings . The main place of European fur scraps recycling is the Greek province of Kastoria with the two places Kastoria and the smaller Siatista . The Greek name of the furrier for the pump is "Founta".
In a description of the furrier trade by a Berlin author from the year 1782 it says in connection with the production of a marten muff : “Two and two pairs of assembled skins are sewn together again in such a way that the thump [!] Of one pair, or the skin in the cross down to the loin, bumps the head of the next couple so that the hair retains a whole line. ”He also mentions that the thump or belly (wrongly) of the mishides , which is very smoke (full-haired), is used as a push for women's gloves has been.
Individual evidence
- ↑ a b Alexander Tuma jun .: The furrier's practice . Julius Springer, Vienna 1928, DNB 1028116640 , p. 11, 94, 100 .
- ↑ a b Alexander Tuma: Pelz-Lexikon. Fur and rough goods . tape XX . Alexander Tuma, Vienna 1950, p. 184–185 (key words “pump”, “pump treatment”).
- ^ Friedrich Malm, August Dietzsch: The art of the furrier. Fachbuchverlag Leipzig, 1951, DNB 453192572 , p. 239. ( → book cover and table of contents ).
- ↑ Christian Franke, Johanna Kroll: Jury Fränkel ’s Rauchwaren-Handbuch 1988/89 . 10th, revised and supplemented new edition. Rifra-Verlag, Murrhardt 1988, p. 378 .
- ^ PN Sprengel's arts and crafts in tables . 2nd collection, 2nd edition, Verlag der Buchhandlung der Realschule, Berlin 1782, pp. 455–456. (books.google.de)
- ^ PN Sprengel's arts and crafts in tables . 2nd collection, 2nd edition, Verlag der Buchhandlung der Realschule, Berlin 1782, p. 412. (books.google.de)